Vladymere

I bought these recently. I don't have them home yet. I will have to put them into storage for maybe as long as a year and a half until I get a shop built. I am planning to move first and then build a shop.

This is a South Bend "heavy" 10 lathe with a 4 1/2 foot bed. It was made in late 43 or early 43. It was probably used as part of the war effort. It should give me about 30 to 33 inches between centers. It has a taper attachmenbt, full set of collets, 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks, a varitey of live centers, quick change post and a whole bunch of other tooling.

Don't know what year this mill was made. It also comes with a bunch of tooling, has one shot oiling, a dro, power feeds, set up to run on 110VAC as is the lathe.

Vlad

Gentleman,

Thank you for your kind comments.

After cleaning up I found the bore is a bit rough and the scope windage screws need replacement, one is wrong and the head broke off of the other. At the range, using Greek ammo, It was kind of all over the target. I attribute this to the bad windage screws on the scope. A couple of times I had two holes touching and then it would move 6 inches.

Donmarkey, $2000. If I was to sell it I would start it at $4000 on the net.

Vlad

Fellows,

Here is a rifle I picked up recently at a gunshow from a walk in. It is and Oberdorf factory model M sporting rifle made for export to the US. Caliber is .30-'06. Serial number places the manufacturing dat at 1922 or 1923. The Gerard scope is still clear. The checkering is still fairly sharp. The scope may be after market and not factory installed.

Vlad

I have a Gew.88 based sporting rifle. The five round, single column, charger loading magazine has been changed to a three round, single column, smooth bottomed, non-projecting magazine. You could probably do something like that.

Vlad

Fellows,

I have a S&W model 337PD .38 Special Airlite revolver. I would like to put a hammer shroud on it to make it a little more pocket friendly.

The only source of shrouds I have been able to find is Waller hammer shrouds. Their add states that they will not work on S&W J frames that have hammer with no integral firing pin which is what mine is. I ordered one anyway and it will not fit correctly.

Does any one know of any other sources for a a hammer shroud that will fit this pistol?

Thanks guys,

Vlad

Are replacement sight beads available for Marbles and Lyman front sights? If so, where?

Vlad

The stock is polish. You can see the wooden dowel in front of the trigger guard that the Poles put in place on all stocks to prevent the web internal to the stock between the magazine well and the trigger well from spliting. A common split in old Mauser stocks.

The scrubbed receiver indicates that this Polish Mauser was sold to the Spanish.

Vlad

I'll 3rd Brownell's Oxpho Blue.

My bottle of it is so old that it has turned brown in color. It still works though. I find it works best if yu apply it and then rub it around.

Vlad

Try some penetrating oil into the threads. Worked for me years ago on a stubborn Spanish Mauser. The threads were rusted together. Friend and me with all our weight on a cheater pipe and all we did was bend the pipe and the barrel didn't budge. Next day my buddy got it out on his own after soaking the receiver end of the barreled action in some home made penetrating oil.

Kroil is your friend.

I think firearms manuactured prior to the 1968 law where not required to hae serial numbers. Tthe1968 changed this requiring firearms manufactured after the law was enabled to have serial numbers.

If I was in your shoes I wouldn't worry about it. That's my opinion and it's worth exactly what it cost you.

Vlad

Here is a link to the MSC catalog for the #31 bit that I use. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACA...000000059811861 I think you will find this drill will penetrate any receiver.

Vlad

Clemson is right about using carbide bits and taps. I ran into a very hard receiver on a late war Nazi Mauser. I broke a drill bit or two on it. I then ordered some drill bits from MSC for drilling high Rockwell numbered steel. They work very well. That's all I use now. If I break one of those, and I have, it is from carelessnes. I will see if I can find the number for the bit later when I am at home.

vlad

As a kid impressing your grandpa and making him happy, what could be better. That's cool Horsefly. I'm sure that's a memory you will treasure all your life.

Vlad

An FR8 (Model 98 action) is safe enough. It may suffer setback after extensive firing, so monitor headspace over the life of the rifle. It is not likely to "blow up" or suffer catastrophic failure. It would be a progressive problem if it develops headspace issues.

 

Clemson

What Clemson said. +1

Vlad

I will use just a round head bass bolt and lapping compund to clean up a crown.

Not having a lathe I will shorten a barrel and then use a hand reamer purchased from Brownell's to cut the muzzle square after cutting it the barrel off with a hacksaw. The reamer has interchangable bore spuds. I use a file to clean up any chatter marks on the muzzle. I again then use a round headed brass screw and lapping compund to create the crown. This leaves a square muzzle with a light crown like on a classic German sporting rifle.

On a model 71/84 Mauser that I shortened the barrel on by 1/4" I did not have a spud for my hand reamer that fit the .43 caliber bore so I faced the muzzle square using a machinests square and a file and again did the crown with a round headed brass screw and lapping compound.

The above methods work just fine.

I don't think I would use the Steve's round grind stone method though.

Vlad

Ok guys help needed I got some more cocking pieces for some 1891 argentines some of them show wear from where the nose rides the rear of the bolt, the area below that rides the trigger sears are fine . A few I can restone , 2 may need to be rebuilt up with small weld and then cleaned up and reshaped what type of rod or wire do I need to use as a friend will weld them for me . Also what Im wondering is how to reharden them I have a can of casenite but will a propane torch be hot enough to use or do I need something hotter, and do I oil quench them or water quench them or just let them cool naturally . aaron10

A propane torch may be enough since it is a small part. You'll have to try it and see.

The Kas-N-It should have directions on the can. I use this product also. If I recall correctly, heat the part untill it is a dull cherry red color then drop it into the Kas-N-It to coat it. Reheat the product to a dull cherry red and hold it at this color for 15 to 30 seconds, I'm working from memory here so the time duration may be wrong. Then drop the part into cold, running water. That part I remember.

I find that when heating the part after coating it with the Kas-N-It that it is hard to judge the color as the coating burns oarnge.

I heat my parts with an oxy-aceylene rig as that's what I have. I also use the oxy-acetylene to weld bolt handles on with. It's old school but it works. I allways have to reharden the bolt root and cocking piece chamfer after welding a bolt handle though when using the oxy-acetylene as it heats the whole end of the bolt up. It is not localized heat.

Vlad

Fellows,

I must retract my statement that the floorplate with the cross in a circle is Spanish. I was wrong. It is Chilean as others of you said.

Vlad

Fellows,

Those hinged trigger guards on your chlean rifles are Spanish trigger guards. The cross in a circle is also Spanish.

Vlad

Will a MAPP torch like the ones sold at Lowes burn hot enough to silver solder...or do you have to have OA?

What is it you are silver sodering? Virualy all soldering involving firearms uses plumbing solder, not silver solder.

Vlad

Ted Blackburn owns CNC Specialities in Utah. Lead time is usually around 2 years though and the run about $300. I've dealt with him and it wasn't a pleasant experience.

-Don

Thanks for the info Don.

Vlad

Where do you find Blackburn magazines Mike? That is quite nice.

Vlad

Mike,

What kind of bottom metal is on that receiver? Spanish?

Vlad

Holy Cow! this sucker is tight! this is a right-threaded action, is it not? righty-tighty, lefty-loosie? I'm using a pipe on my action wrench to give me leverage & all I'm doing is lifting my whole work bench! Any thoughts?

If your talking about a Mauser or Gew.88 then yes, righty tighty, lefty loosy.

Kroil is your friend. Apply some Kroil (this is literlay the best penetrating oil on the market) to the junction of the secondary tourqe shoulder and in the receiver at the primary torque shoulder. Be genrous. Allow it to work for several days.

If the Kroil application by itself does not do the trick you can try smacking the handle of your action wrench with a heavy dead blow hammer once or twice and then go back to the cheater bar.

If you are not going to reuse the barrel you can put a pipe wrench on the barrel. place the barreled recever on the floor with the receiver wrench on the concrete. Place the pipe wrench on the barrel so that the end of the wrench so that it is in the air a few inches. Holding on to something to minimize the fall risk step on to the pipe wrench. If needed bounce yourself up and down on the pipe wrench.

If this does not work and you are not planning to reuse the barrel you make a relief cut in the barrel right where it buts up to the secondary torque shoulder. If you don not have a lathe, like me, you can do this with a rotary tool and cut off wheels if you have time and a steady hand.

My experience with some of the Vz24s is that the barrels where torqued on about like the local tire company does lug nuts. Overtorqued. I've not found that to be true of Turks or Swedes. I haven't tried Yugos yet.

Vlad

rustyvyper,

Take a piece of uncoated welding rod or an unplated nail that will just fit the hole. Make sure the hole is clean. Cut the pin to be about an 1/16" to 3/32" taller than the hole. Place the pin in the hole and whack it with a hammer. The idea is to peen the pin into the hole so that it fully fills it up. File the peened pin down to the barrel and polish. When done right it will be difficult to tell where the fill is. there is a possibilty that the pin will not blue the same as the surounding barrel but agian it is usualy hard to tell.

Vlad

Rustvyper,

Yes, cold blued.

This is the first rifle I built. I took my second deer ever with it. The second rifle I started maybe five years ago and have not yet fiished. Someday I will.

Here are a couple more photos.

Vlad