Vladymere

Here is a photo of a Vz24 barel that I turned the steps out of without using a lathe. I removed the front sight sleeve and chucked the muzzle in my drill press. I set the chamber on a live center mounted in a piece of 2x4 that was bolted to the drill bress table. With the drill press running I then went at the barrel with coarse files, followed by finere files followed by a belt sander with progressivly finer grits of paper and finished up with hand held wet n dry paper lubed with oil. As the muzzle was quite worn I cut off the portion of the barrel that the front sight sleeve was on. The profile was shaped freehand by eye. If you hold the barrel up to you eye and look down it you can see some ripples but looking at the barrel in any other manner the ripples are not apparent. Vlad

I tried recutting the checkering on a 1908 MS stock that I repaired. Now I need a new stock, it came out that badly. I'm sure your efforts will be much better. Vlad

I'm sure Mike can takey care of you. The sights are not silver soldered on though. They are soft soldered with the same solder you would use for copper plumbing. Vlad

If a .311 bullet will slide into an unresized fired case with no effort then the chamber neck will allow the larger bullet. if you cannot slip the .311 bullet into the fired brass don't load them up. Vlad

You got lucky kenak2. Mexican bolt parts, let alone complete bolts, are scarce as hens teeth. Congratulation on your purchase. Vlad

You where abel to get a complete 1910 bolt, with extractor and firing pin? The 1910 firing pin and extractor, like the bolt body, have dimsnions unique to the Mexican models 1910 and 1936. Any model 98 bolt shroud and cocking piece will fit though. I think a Yugo intermediate length firning pin could be modified to the 1910 dimensions if you had an original 1910 to work from and copy but the extractor is an altogether different animal. Vlad

And that is why I bought Yugo bolts for my Mexican receivers. Spare parts won't be an issue for Yugo bolts for quite a while I think. Vlad

The Mexican Mauser bolts have unique dimensions as noted by the protruberance of the standard intermideiate bolt. I have not done it but believe that a barrel could be counter bored for the protruding bolt face, and extracter cut made and then the barrel chamberd. I have three Mexican Mauser receivers and three Yugo bolts just for this. I did pick up and Adams & Bennet 7MM lightweaight barrel also for the first experiment. I don't know when I will get to it though. Vlad

Guys, do you like your name to be mispronounced? Lets get it right. It is Gustaf. Vlad, or is that Vlid or maybe Vled

Could you make a casting of the inside threads using cerosafe, unscrew it when it cools and then measure the casting? Vlad

I'm with Clemson on this. Personaly I think Kunhausen is overly cautios. He would have you reheat treat a reciver if you looked at it to hard. Vlad

Clemson, Donmarkey is correct about what I was asking. Glad to hear you where not redefining the the cmming surfaces. As an aside, are you in Clemson or di you go to Clemson or both? I lived in Cola. from 80 to 85 and have been in Charlotte ever since. Vlad

Very nice work and a great tutorial. Would it not have been better to take alittle more off the bolt then modify the receiver camming surfaces? The receiver was hard because it is case hardened. You likely cut through the case hardened surface. Vlad

It may be an intersting article to follow. Here is a link to a closed auction for a Mauser sporting rifle built by Leonard Brownell. A work of art. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=63125375 Vlad

The article was true when written and is still true today. The US manufacturers use a 60 degree thread as it requires no special tooling. The manufacturers by cutting tools of the shelf. They do not make there own. Specialty made cutting toolls would be an extra costs to the barrel manufacturers. As I recall Brownells sells a 55 degree Whitworth cutting tool. I wonder what thread design Lothat Walther uses? You could probably get a properly threaded barrel from them. Vlad

Skeeter, I'm impressed!. Did you remove metal from the magazine/triggerguard assembly only or did you also shave the exterior of the receiver in additiion to than the charger hump? Vlad

Barrel length is designated not only by handeling, muzzle blast and recoil but also by esthetics. How does the rifle look asslembled with barrel length as is? Block off 2" at the muzzle and look at it the rifle. How does it look with the shorter barrel? Building a sporter is not purely about function but also about appearance. The sporterized rifle is an art object. We don't all have the same taste in art. You will have to decide what looks good to you and blend the appearance with function. I will say that, generaly, if going with a 16" to 18" barrel then you need either a Mannlicher style stock or a very diminutive stock to achieve a pleasing apearance. Just my two cents. Vlad

Barrel profile does not look military to me. Looks like a commercial profile off of a comercial rifle. Vlad

It has commercial proofs. Military barrels that have passed into the civilian sector would be proofed in this manner when a comercial rifle is completed. Vlad

I recently sold a G33/40 on GunBroker for $2500. That is not something you want to sporterize when so many standard and intermediate 98s are available. Vlad

I saw a sporterized model 71 (ot 71/84) on Gunbroker once but I didn't have the buck for it. I t had a nice, ornate trigger guard on it and double, set triggers. I have a 71/84 that I shoot (and one that is to nice to shoot). I load a 400 grain cast bullet with 30 grains of IMR 4198 behind it. I stuff the rest of the case full of Dacron filler. I have no idea what iti chronographs at but I would not hesitate to use in on a deer at 100 ards or less. Vlad

"make sure you don't make it to brittle." Brittle in a tap can be a good thing. Should you ever break a tap off while threading a hole then brittle can be your friend. You can shatter the tap and remove the fragments. If the tap won't shatter it can be a to get out. Vlad

"I look at it this way, that tap will last you forever." Mine didn't. Dropped the sob on the concrete garage floor. It cracked at the junction of the shank and the cutting threads. I haven't bought a replacement yet but I need to. Vlad

I wouldn't have believed that there where any screws that where metric on a Mauser. Two of the screws that Longisland listed from Recknagle are metric, those with the M prefix. Vlad

I had a Turk that had contact on the third lug and no contact on either of the primaries. Not a good thing. Vlad