Vladymere

When applying the rust solution apply it only to the exterior of the receiver and barrel. Do not apply the rust solution to the interior surfaces of the receiver, only blue what shows.

As for the barrel,I don't believe anything needs to be done. Apply rust solution to the exterior only. You can do the threads and the crown but don't get any down the bore. I don't bother with a hot box, damp box, etc. Seems to be enough humidity in the air, winter or summer in NC.

After boiling the barrel blow compressed air through it if available. Then run patches through until dry. As hot as the barrel is after coming out of the boiling water it will dry very quickly.

The barrel bore should be unaffected by repeated boiling and drying.

Vlad

What are you wanting to protect the receiver lugs, threads and barrel from?

Vlad

Oxy-acetylene welding was used long before electric welding in gun smithing. Oxy-acetylene is what I use. Like Doble Troble I also have to reharden the cocking cam as well as the bolt root.

Vlad

I am a collector of Mauser rifles. The date being scrubbed and replaced by the G33/50 stamp removes all collectability of this rifle for the serious collector. If it was in it's original wood it might be a place holder for a collctor until an unscrubbed one could be found. Model 94 wood when it can be found tends to go for $300 or better, then you still need to find the the front end metal which will run you another $100 or more.

Sporterize quilt free Montea6b, this rifle is only worth the value of its parts or use as a doner rifle.

Vlad

After you remove the crest on the ring of the receiver, do you need to have it reheat treated??

 

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No. Only the portions in contact with moving parts need to be surface hardened on a Mauser receiver. The exterioer of the receiver has no moving parts so it need not be cse hardened. Crest removal does not harm the surface hardening to the remainder fo the receiver so heat treating is not required

Vlad

The "hieroglyphics" are standard FN/Belguim proof marks. You will se these same proof marks on FN produced military Mauser rifles.

The small letter h should pinpoint a particular inspector. Knowing the inspector woul allow you to approximate the date as the time frame the inspector worked would also be known.

I do not know a source for IDing the inspectors though.

Vlad

How about a classic steel butt plate with cartridge trap? You never feel the recoil when hunting, only when sighting on off the bench. Recnagle makes some nice butt plates. They can be imported by NECG for you. There version with trap that looks similar to a Mannlicher Schoenaur runs about $260 with dealer discount.

Vlad

The modern classic stock is a nice stock. Very clean lines, nice balance to the shape.

That is a good looking rifle you have.

Vlad

If you are not going to reuse the barrel perhaps a relief cut in the barrel secondary torque shoulder right next to the receiver would help.

Vlad

I once screwed up using a buddies lathe. Thought I was taking of 1/100th of an inch on a breech face. I took off 1/10". I used a finish reamer to hand cut the chamber that additional tenth of an inch. Worked fine and took no time at all.

Vlad

Thanks for the advice fellows. I'm still leaning towards the 6.5x57 due to the common case head. You can load any of the projectiles you would with the Swede. Can't get ammo over the counter but with a match rifle your talking hand loads anyway.

Vlad

Fellows,

I'm still thinking of building a match rifle. I had planned on making it in .308 Winchester but am now considering a 6.5mm

What are your thoughts on the 6.5x57mm cartridge versus the 6.5x55mm Swedish round? Any advantage of one over the other?

I'm planning on uisng an intermediate length Mauser receiver. Will the 6.5x57 work in this action or does it require a standard length action?

Thanks guys,

Vlad