bubbamauser

I have had great results using Super blue after sand blasting with one of those cheap harbor freight guns and fine play sand. The sand blasting is the only way I have ever been able to get a consistent streak free cold blue. Roy

I have a springfield 22 without a serial number I bought a few years ago and the shop just wrote "no serial number" on the paperwork. I agree with everyone else though. you should contact BATFE or your county's state police Firearms officer and get it from the horses mouth Roy

I found another source for the scope mount http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/HK_UTG_...sory_mount.html

I got mine from sportsmans guide about 2 years ago, was a little beat but nice bore, bipod and 2 mags.

Great work!

Some people hate this guy and some like me love him. check out some of his tutorials and decide for yourself. check out "what to do with a turkish mauser" Steve Wagner's site http://www.gswagner.com/ Have Fun, Roy

I added my request for mosin Nagant. Thanks for posting that link Roy

It is rustoleum appliance Epoxy Black, from Home Depot. Remember it doesnt dull unless you bake it, its high gloss out of the can

Thanks, I weld in the flip flops occasionally too. I guess you can take from my screen name I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Roy

did anyone read the text under "attention" . got to love the nuances of translation

this does come down to individual taste because I love the second one Tanglewood Z, I don't know if that was due to welding ability or being hard headed I spent 10 times as much time grinding and polishing as welding. It was just what I had to use at the time. after using Mig I don't think I would Arc one again when I get Tig I'll probably say the same thing about mig. Roy

Yes this was a parts kit Tantals are the same as standard ak s except for the knob on the left side to select rate of fire and caliber (5.45x39) I had to cut the selector off the fire control group and weld it to the right side safety rod (which is also the selector in standard aks) and weld a block on so it fuctioned as a trigger block like it does on a regular ak. I used a tapco flat and drilled out the other side where the end of the regular selector sits in, the geometry of the tantal safety lever is slightly different than an ak so if you look close you can see a slight difference in how it covers the bolt when on safe because of the angles. I don't think anyone else will ever notice it and the ones that century is building don't have the left hand side knob so mine is authentic. It takes some effort because of lack of leverage but you can push the safety off with it. Roy

Here goes my favorite, the second bolt I welded. done with a cheap harbor freight stick welder .

I finished this one up a little while ago Finish is appliance epoxy baked for an hour 400 degrees. it came out so hard Selector lever won't scratch through. Roy

Jimro, if you give the bushing idea a try for commercial barrels let me know how you do it and what barrels are most appropriate Rugers?. Z1R, this was the first yugo action I tried to rebarrel a few years ago barrel wouldn't budge so I cut off barrel and ground out the threads removing some of the action threads in the process. Kenak2, It is seamed that was the hardest area to turn smooth on the inside so Dom might be the safe bet or barrel stub as below Riceone, the barrel is slightly undersize in O.D. I thought about using a barrel to make the bushing out of but I have used the only one I have in large ring for practicing contouring a barrel in the lathe and it came out too good to butcher , but I guess I can just start over on my next projects barrrel when i get it. Roy

the one I'm using is an old mossberg with the screw type ACCU choke and ports cut in eitherside of the barrel(I don't even Know what model its from but it looks cool) it was an Gunshow junk box find for about $10 I got about a year or 2 ago. Threads are veryfine and very shallow I was thinking of turning it to fit insde the sleeve an then silver soldering in place.

I have a low pressure plan to salvage an old action I have floating around but I have some questions: Would the steel used for a 20ga barrel sleeve need to be anything special? I have been practicing turning down 3/4 plumbing pipe to mauser threads so I have a lot of pieces floating around Bold face is already flat I had played with this idea a while back. I know there was some overhang of the rim it was minimal(I grabed all the parts from storage and forgot the shells so I don't have the measurment) Any ideas on a jig to hold the action to open up the inner ring and lug area (I am thinking 2" plumbing pipe with the action centered in it and attached with screws through the pipe so it can be shimmed center and then mounted in a 4 jaw) I don't have an idea of what it will need to be opened up to again because I forgot the shells but I remeber it was a minor amount and from all I have read the 12ga GEHA only uses the 3rd lug to lock up with so it should be safe also 20ga slugs are about 12k psi let me hear your ideas Thanks, Roy

Thanks Jim, I sent a reply. Roy

I can't offer any advice, I'm just happy to see someone else's bench as cluttered as mine Roy

Downwindtracker2, Check ou Varmint Al's Lathe page it has a lot of good info on these lathes . http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm Roy

Tinker, Do you have a picture of yours? I Have used the ones stamped MK II on the back and the bold triggers with safties. I'd like to give making one myself a try. Thanks, Roy

Check out this drill press to mill conversion, This site has some sporterizing info but mostly firearms machined from scratch. the home shop section has some great info. http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ik...8;t=13378;st=20 Roy

Thanks Z1R, I have lapped a couple of rifles, 1 turk with only one lug contacting but no I have not corrected setback. I am a little confused about it though putting aside using the lapping tool, Would'nt facing the c ring in a lathe or even pushing a valve grinding compound coated washer conected to a rod pushed into a receiver from the front and turned until all was true, work as long as it was heat treated afterwards? The second example is definetly bubba but I am using to emphasize that the operation is not very hard to perform (even a dremel cut off wheel worn down to size and inserted into the receiver from the front would work folowed by the lapping tool)it is the heat treat that is paramount. I am a do it your selfer so don't be offended by me wanting answers that can be performed by the home gunsmith (which carburising is not) I know you do great work, I have learned alot from your posts but I have never done anything I do to rifles now, before I did it the first time. I hope you can understand this. its the reason I like this board so much my last post had a little bit of anger in it so I owe you an apology not the jerk offs only you, just kidding the jerkoffs too. Love Roy, I feel warm inside

Yes I do mean the springloaded tool (a homemade tool is out there that does the same thing)if you are recaurburising the action the amount you will need to remove won't matter if it gets into the case hardening. To re- index(back to 12 o'clock not 1 or 3) the barrel I would have to add 1 full thread (360 degrees one turn ) which means I would have to shorten the barrel stub to the right length and rechamber(so you can understand this, it will not screw in anymore if the stub is butting againt the inner c ring so a new chamber will be necessary). please explain to me how to turn the barrel one full turn without a full thread. please post back if any of this is not understandable I did not give technical specifications on the first part of my post because I was trying to get the guy not to throw good money after bad on that action. The work required would have cost more than $260.00 correct ? I was not trying to cockblock anyone selling work, but this is a do it your self forum, give him the option of doing it himself if he can't he will ask for someone to do it for him. he actually could do anything here himself if he has a lathe and sent the action to be caurburised, if he doesn't he will ask. Royceo I was trying to sell you on the second part of my post don't waste anymore money on this action, look into sarco if you need to a 98 action is 69.99 , neither jerk off made a comment on the validity of that part. if there is anything wrong above please correct me because in lapping lugs you are dealing in hundreds not thousandths already and I have never heard of a problem with that other than wearing through the heat treat which you have covered with the caurburisation. Roy

I got it from cheaer than dirt about a year ago, I checked the website but can't find it now.