bubbamauser

If your having the action carburised, could'nt you use a lug lapping tool (easy to make if you have access to a lathe) to remove the imprint (this will increase headspace, so barrel will most likely need to be turned back an additional thread or two and rechambered) if you closed the bolt put pressure on a rod down the barrel you could measure how much it set back by how far you can push the rod back and forth with a go guage in the barrel and decide if you are comfortable removing what will be necessary for it to be flat. just some ideas if you have the equipment to do this you can, everything but the carburising , nothing to this point is rocket science. food for thought ,and a more satisfying alternative to sending it out if you don't have the tools a new 24/47 is about $100.00 there is a simple way of Drilling and tapping layed out in detail over on steve wagners site for the scope mount (cost of mount,super glue, drill and tap) . you would probably have to rechamber the barrel if you swap it (barrel vise 60.00, action vise easily made )to a 24/47 but you could then send the reamer($100.00) (go and no go guages $30) linto the co-op and have access to all the reamers isted for future projects (you don't know it yet but your hooked). You could use all of the parts from this one on a future project or sell them to recoup some of your cost. 290.00 +/- 50 in tools doing it yourself Priceless

here it goes Roy

I know I'm not supposed to use .308 commercial in these but with Remington 150. core lokt I was getting about 6" group at 100yds off iron sights. I have since put a scope on it but haven't been back out to sight it in. Roy

Mine was a centerfire inc. kit with new barrel they had about a year ago, one already drilled would have saved me some headaches with the headspacing. I have heard alot of people turn the barrel upside down and redrill to fix the century bolt grinding headspace method. this definetly wasn't an AK or mauser build but it is diferent enough from everything else to be really interesting, have fun and post your pics. Sonic I love your press set up mine is 2" steel gas pipe welded together as a frame with a 12 ton HF jack. 724wd it's a shame cetmrrifles.com died the replacement site is okay but the owner of cetmerifles (Perro del diablo)was the best resource for me building this. everything on militaryrifles about cetme's is cut and paste from his posts on Cetmerifle. stick to his and Rusty pirates advice and you'll be fine. Roy

I used a stainless cast receiver so I didn't have to bend ,it but I lived up to my name on the rest of it. My receiver was actually undersized for the trunnion and cocking tube. I opened it up with a dremmel wheel real slowly until I could tap it in Sonic is right the head spacing is the most important thing with these I had to press the barrel back and forth more than I can remember until I got the feeler guage to just fit Roy

My ammo is usually 150 gr. remington or american eagle 30-06 . side by side with a stock m48 it takes a little more pressuce to cycle but I have other mausers that take slightly more pressure to cycle with out a new barrel, albeit not a weatherby but I did'nt build my weatherby in my basement before I had any real tools I'm not sure about all the bad feeding mausers out there though, if it won't feed its not done. I haven't had a whole lot of problems that people on this board haven't been able to help me with but even after all I have heard, my rifle still seems to cycle fine Roy

I see all the posts against this but My first rebarrel was an 30-06 on an M48 (same length) and over 100 rounds later I still haven't had any of the problems I hear about. I did file the front and rear of the magazine a bit because I was told I would need to, I think it would have worked fine without the filing though. Roy

I offer your family my deepest condolences. He was a good man I had posted about where to find some mn parts and he asked for my address about a week later I received them in the mail from him. Thanks again Fritz

Thanks Doble troble, gun nutty and alberta shooter, From some of the posts I've read it sounds like people put it in the chuck and have a finished product in 10 min so I was getting a little discouraged.

sorry for the late reply, a total renovation is a fun project. Tinker, I sent a PM Milsurp collector, I don't know where to begin spindle and ways are fine, I haven't had a whole lot of time to practice but is it supposed to take an hour to use the DI to center in the 4 jaw or am I borderline retarded. Thanks guys

Tinker the spindle is about 1" the hole in the chuck up to the spindle is 1.25 though looks like I can get about an 22" barrel between the centers though It may be the middle of winter before I have an "shop" area set up(half of the basement is becoming an entry way(no one else will probably understand this but house is on a hill so basement is below grade in the rear of the house and where the 1st floor should be in the front stairs to the second floor (read first) were on the outside now it will be on the first with a fold back type stair on the inside up to the second (again read first)) will probably take that long for my wife to stop being pissed off about this purchase with all the work still left on the house but I could'nt pass it up (with or without the motor you'll be welcome to use it) I attached some photo's of the lathe and accessories if anyone could give me some part names I would appreciate it. Thanks, Roy

I just picked up an old metal craft 9" lathe with about 24" between centers with a big coffe can full of parts and gears and some larger supports and tool holders. I'll snap some photos of the parts and post tomorrow for some help sorting them out. I have wanted one for a while so I jumped on it for $250 you guys think the price was okay for one this old? Thanks, Roy

I like the silver solder ideal, have you ever done it before, if this is the test case keep us informed. Roy

I waited 3 mos on a RIA m48 stock from them I finally cancelled and ordered it from Sporter express and got it in 2 days, that didn't leave the best taste in my mouth about boyds. Sporter express though has a client for life. Roy

i've read alot of your old posts nice work look forward to seing more Roy

This is a cool post. If I drilled a hole in the side of the action and 2 in the bolt so they face down when closed, add the sheild would it approximate the gas handling of a 98? I realize all opinions are worth what I've paid for them, so let me know what you think Thanks, Roy

Here is the build from the beginning, A guy named perro on the board walked me through it. This should answer your questions let me know if you decide to do it I found some suppliers for compliance parts. http://www.cetmerifles.com/forum/vb/showth...ght=bubbamauser

The kit was in good shape with a new barrel , knowing what I know now I would have done it with a G3 parts kit, compliance partsare more available and g3 US trigger parts can be found pretty cheap, Cetme US made trigger parts are non existent. almot all of the parts are interchangeable between G3 and cetme except for the trigger componets(you can swap out the whole group not individual parts) trunion, bolt carrier and bolt. My Cetme kit came from Centerfire Systems, FAC Supply has G3 kits for about the same price. Remember the trigger group box must be cut and weded to make semi along with some mods to the remaining parts. My cocking handle, stock set and magazine are for a g3, but I like it Roy

Just got this guy finished from a parts kit to CETME G3 hybrid, now back to bolt actions for a little while.

That is beautiful work, thanks for posting it and the instructions on how it was done. Thanks, Roy

I have'nt seen any signs of problems through 2 boxes of ammo fired with the oil test listed above one box 150 one 200 gr., I have a chunk of wood I've started to copy a macmillian stock style into for it (if I ever get around to it). The first rifle i did was a little over a year ago now i have 3 going at once (or rather various degrees of finished .this one, cetme, mosin sporter)

I stand corrected Thanks, Roy

husquavarna magnums were small ring barrel, large ring action I haven't heard of one having problems with them, I have personally test fired 20 150's and 20 200 grs. 300 win mags loads with the cases lubed to increase pressure and have had no warning signs appear on a k.kale 1941 with a rem take off barrel threaded by our own sonic. I haven't done a whole lot on my mausers recently been jumping from one thing to another so it has been only test firing. just use common sense, this is my experience ,its worth exactly what you've paid for it., check the .300 win turk thread and decide for yourself. CETME's have gotten my attention as of late http://www.cetmerifles.com/forum/vb/showthread.php?t=15485

with the centerfire gew 71/84 Don't expect a whole lot , I ordered 2 and got a box of trash ,stocks broken through and tubes smashed most parts are missing, save your money, theres not enough in the box to even think of restoring or sporterizing .

Mad Jack, This is the exact opposite of everything I have heard, so you've got my interest. I believe your right because I opened up a 98 for a magnum and it really seemed that it wasn't necessary just the bevel you spoke of would work. Can you post a picture or more details on the bevel Thanks, Roy