bubbamauser

Just wash it off as soon as it cools, I noticed some stains on my vise where it dripped

I picked up some of this to try out, I arc welded a bolt over the weekend and this kept everything cool you can also spray this in the bolt ,with the sprayer on the bottle, for extra protection, its $10.00 and available at the home depot.

Forgot to log in. I would have posted a picture but it became a birthday present, next time I see my cousin i'll take a picture of it

Heres a great review of this TIG over at gunco.net http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php...=harbor+freight and a tutorial on using it http://www.panzer46.net/welding%20101.htm

I know it would have to be scratch started, but would it still work like a tig in other respects, small detail work, and not heating too much? I'm looking for a low cost alternative myself

Fritz, I got this formula off of another board, I used it on a old 22 with great results, try some on junk parts first though, to see what you think. I knew parkerizing was generally easy, but this was ridiculous! I went from concept to finished test part in less than an hour. Procedure: Go to Home Depot and buy a quart of "Aqua Mix" phosphoric acid cleaner. Look in the ceramic tile section for this stuff. At home, send your wife shopping, then steal a stainless pot that won't be used for food, ever again. Don safety glasses and gloves. Add water (distilled preferable) to the pot. Note how many onces you added. In a 1:24 ratio, add the phosphoric acid cleaner to the water. IOW, if you have 96 ounces of water, add 4 ounces of acid. Turn the heat to slightly above medium. Degrease a chunk of steel wool by soaping it up with Dawn or similar, and add a chunk to the pot, about 1/8th of a biscuit per gallon. It'll begin to fizzle. Prep your part. I won't go into detail. It must be CLEAN, and FREE OF OILS. Bead blast, or yopu can use 220 grit wet/dry or a scotchbrite pad to coarsen the surface. For the part in the picture, I simply soaked it in hot "Dawn" while the brew heated. Rinse the part before immersion. Hang it from iron wire, this makes it easy to handle. Heat the brew until it is almost boiling. You'll see some steam, and maybe some bubbles on the side of the pot, but it isn't boiling. Keep the heat there. Immerse the part. Wait 20 to 40 minutes. Rinse in hot water. Soak in WD-40 for a while. The resultant park was as nice as anything I've seen commercially. It was ridiculously easy and cheap. Standard disclaimers... don't be stupid, don't piss off your wife, don't drink acid or bathe in it, etc etc. Be a grown-up. Neutralize it with baking soda and discard.

Nice work, I like the stock

Tinker, check out the above link the 12's only use the rear lug so it looks like were good. So far it doesnt seem any of the other mods listed will be necessary for 20ga

It looks like it will be .101 on each bolt lug the pressure will be under 12,000 psi what do you think? http://www.hodgdon.com/data/shotshel/203remni.php

I used a dremel with a stone to open it up, also opened up the inner ring so it will clear. I did need to take a little off the top upper left raceway but just a couple of file strokes. I ground the bolt and the only overhang is a little of the rim, the elector looks like its gonna be a pain in the ass but so far this is doable

If it werent for the history channel, discovery and OLN I would lose the cable all together, I never heard of the Military channel.

Thanks guys, Sounds like one to pass on at this point. I've got two of these floating around now and am trying to come up with some ideas on what to do with them. I already have one sporterized in 8mm mauser

8mm remington is an good but overlooked cartridge Would it be possible to rechamber an original 8x57 barrel to it?

I opened up the front and real slightly and just polished the feed ramp on my 48 for 30-06 and it feeds fine.

Sign up for the midway account and you will get email every so often with special pricing if you log into there page I got the B square for $48.00 mauser busing $10, I use aluminum conduit bushings and copper fittings for other sizes also and it works fine.Some people get great results with the wheeler but it wouldn't budge a m48 barrel for me with the soaking in pb blaster, heating or rosin. I didn't want to break down and buy another vise after getting the wheeler but when I finally did I had spent alot of time and money (cutting my own blocks so they would be tighter, Building a homemade vise with scrap, relief cuts into the barrel)that I could have avoided with the B-square. And I have to emphasise Be careful with relief cuts I snapped a barrel and destroyed an action this way (the enfield torques on the outer ring but Just for Info a relief cut wont help on a mauser if you ever have the same problem on one it torques on the inside ring, I learned this after the fact.

Check out the archives there was a great post on homemade barrel vises. The wheeler wouldn't budge a yugo for me whatever I did and 3/4 bar stock would have cost me about as much as the b-square on one of Midway special price emails so I got it and the with the rosin the barrel just span off. I would have saved alot of time and money if I would have got this in the firstplace. If you have access to free steel stock the ones in the archive will work. I built one with pieces of steel from a grate about 3/8 thick and the jack just bent it and the barrel just spun.

I want to do just to see if I can, no reason other than that, well maybe just to say that it can be done and I did it. Theres a lot of satisfaction in that

I have no experience with a lathe I did mean to say headstock. The one I am looking at has a through headstock of 5/8 I was under the impression I could feed a barrel in until it hit the the od of the barrel tighten it up and just move the tailstock over to it and thread, but like I said I am new to lathes and have never used one. The info I have is from the net if anyone has any recomendations for one at about $1000.00 please let me know about it ,the harbor freight one is about $400.00 but if i could use one for a little more that would give me more uses I would spend the extra. $1,000 is about the limit for while though.

I read somewhere a while back that you can make an attachment so a barrel can go through the tailstock of a mini lathe can anyone share there experience with these. I am looking at the small harbor freight model for threading barrels and other gun work. Thanks, Roy

This worked for me really well, Drill the holes larger and tap so a 1/4 machine screw will fit. heat the srcew red and let cool, thread it in until it is flush on the bottom, cut it off as close to the receiver as possible . Use a hammer and punch to peen over the screw. use the dremel to grind smooth and polish. Then just drill and tap for your base. This repair isn't totally invisible but you need to look close to find it after its blued. Hope this helps. Roy

Heres a photo of the trigger I ground the lip deeper Sorry its fuzzy my camera doesn't like close ups

This was easy but the results are great, adjustments are for pull and overtravel. now it is single stage and has no creep and stops right as it drops I trimmed about 2 coils off of the spring ,drillied and tapped for 6-32 screw. you have to temper(heat red with mapp or oa and let cool slowly) the trigger and sear first or its too hard to drill through. you drill in the center of the spring cap or whatever its called and the forward piece thats cut out at the front top of the trigger after you grind it back so theres enough meat for the screw.

MorgansBoss, You answered my next question before I asked it. I set the 20 up against the bolt and saw the overhang, but it is all rim. so far it looks like I will need to open up the inner shoulder of the action for the rim to fit through and it looks like everything else would be repeating what you wrote, as this is too, Thanks kinda puts me at ease with it being doable,I'll probably be posting a lot of stupid questions on this one. Thanks, Roy

I was trying to go the route of using existing parts I found a source for 20 Gauge single shot barrels I won't know what kind until it comes in but its cheap enough to work with. I was planning on picking up a box of 20 guage shells and taking the measurements of of them for the bolt face and rails. Does anyone know what will be necessary to make the face work with the rim? I am guessing (and it seems like common sense but I have been wrong as far as common sense goes in the past) in the box the shells are loaded rim in front of the one below. The .410 would be easier and the 12 more effective but I don't plan on using this for deer ( I have a 870 that does the rifled slug job well) for 150 miles around Philly you can only use slugs, no rifles. I had thought of using the .303 case for brass .410 shotshells in a .410 version but its just a little light for me.

If anyone has ever done this how do you modify the bolt and extractor, I'm thinking I could get a 28 or 20 ga in and have it clear the lug recesses. I have a receiver laying around I cant use for high pressure but that should be great for this.