usmc0332

Thank you for the compliments, and the tips. I like the idea of inletting a cartridge head into the stock. Yea, I am HOOKED. I was perusing the rack at Dunhams for another Turk. I saw one that was telling me it wants to become a Tweed. It is a 1935 Ankara in nice shape. Having had trouble when I was first attempting to blue this one makes me appreciate it all the more.

Around a busy group like this, those shouldn't sit around long.

I fixed the pics. I believe they work now. I got it all together and it looks great. I used those cotton makeup pads to apply the bluing to the barrel and receiver. The harder I rubbed them the more brilliant the bluing became. I couldn't be more happy with the job. I am an 'I did it myself' kind of guy. I have a friend that will be hot bluing a batch of guns soon, but I had to do it myself(and I couldn't wait). But all of this was the cheap part. I have about $100 into it so far. $80 gun, $12 bluing, $6 can of BLO. The rest will require about $150 for mounts, rings, scope, front non-detach swivel from Brownells, bits and taps from the same, and sling. I wish I was on a Leopold budget. While the bluing was sitting in oil, I rubbed on a mix of 1/3 BLO, 2/3 semigloss minwax poly. 2 coats of that really improved the stocks looks. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedTurk1.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedTurk2.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedturk3.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedTurk4.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedTurk5.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=bluedTurk6.jpg

I just finished bluing the rest of the parts. The barreled receiver came out a nice blue, after 5 or 6 applications. I used cotton pads. I dropped the extractor screw during rinsing. It went right in the drain hole. I was even lucky enough to get it out with a magnet. It all looks great. Now I can't wait until tomorrow so I can put it back together.

First of all I was not taking shots at anyone for their bluing tips. I may in the future work up to them. Tonight I started where I left off and actually learned what I was attempting to do. I started working on one part at a time. I guess I assumed that because I bought a bluing kit I was already an expert. I decided to work slower without the use of a torch. I degreased as I had before. Rubber gloves and first scrubbing with dishsoap and a toothbrush, then rinse well, then with steel wool and the degreaser supplied in the Perma Blue kit. Then I followed the package directions. Blue, rinse, gently rub with steel wool, repeat. I noticed that the bluing did work best when the dry parts were still hot from washing. I am not yet ready to try to evenly heat with a propane torch, this was trouble for me last time. Some of the parts that I had done last time came out perfect, small parts. I was able to build on what I had last time, after cleaning off the uneveness. I am no longer an exhausted and frustrated NOVICE. I am a NOVICE that is beginning to learn what the heck I am doing. Thanks guys. Now I think I will be able to do a nice job on the barreled receiver. Has anyone had any luck with bluing the stock disks and crossbolt? I wonder if those are worth attempting.

I tried to follow the advanced cold bluing instructions I found on a board today. I didn't stuff Turk Mauser parts in the dumpster, tho I did stop and think of doing so for about 2 minutes. instead I rinsed all parts off well, put them in a clean 5 gallon bucket and drenched them with the last bit from 2 penetrating oil cans, and shut off the lights. At least there will be something besides rust in there tomorrow. So much for polishing to 400grit, a $12 bluing kit, and 5 hrs of scrubbing and trying to blue. (smiles) at least there is always tomorrow. At least it isn't an automobile.

I have only been looking at ballistics charts since I was 12(36 now), and been looking at reloading stuff since I was about 15. One of these days I will get around to it. I had written the 8x57, and 7x57 cartridge off after reading Winchester & Remington charts. I figured they were anemic old rounds. Now I know better. There are even good bullets available in 8mm I have learned. Though my Mosins like that Silver Bear. I put 2 whitetails in the freezer with 203grn softpoints. Already my wants exceed my checkbook.

Z I like the tips. I see what you are talking about with the tang. I like the look. You were right about slimming down the forend. I had been pondering the same thing. I am glad I followed your advise. The maple is leftovers from the table the pic was taken on. My Dad has an old Winchester 30-30 that still looks good with a BLO finish, no retouching. It was his serious hunting rifle for about 20 years, still kicking after 30+. I figure that I can just go over it again should the need arise. It is you crazy gun fools that got me hooked on this. I was happy just blasting away with my old mosins. Now I know what I was missing out on. Thanks guys. I always like advise even if I don't follow it.

Deer hunting is my favorite thing. Congrats on a successful hunt. I have had deer walk directly into the wind carrying my smoke. Who knows what makes these fickle creatures do what they do. How is it you can sit for hours watching a patch of woods, and all of a sudden a deer materialises right in the middle of it?

I have had a lot of time on my hands lately. All this has cost me so far is a $6 can of BLO, and a bit of time. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...urkontable1.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...urkontable2.jpg I am happy with the results. I think a test-fire is in order for tomorrow, just to feel the difference the loss of 8 1/2 of barrel and wood makes. I love short rifles. It balances nicely at 21 inches. At less than 30fps per inch less than 24 inches, I think it is worth the loss.

I am getting down to some metal polishing, and then cold bluing. Next I need to figure out a low safety. I have seen the forged low safety thread, but think I will pass on that method this time. I have never held a rifle with the low swing style. I don't know which is best, or even if I want left side or right. Please share your thoughts.

Now that I have the bolt pretty much finished, I am glad I did it the way I did. I wasn't so sure(nervous) about my methods. Now I have a slot in the stock for it, and it looks good. I am laid off for now, so I put about 8 hours into this project yesterday. I thinned the forend and re-refinished the whole stock. I added some red mahogany stain to the BLO. I like the way it came out. I also cleaned up a lot of the metalwork. I lost the pin that holds the plunger for the floorplate when it suddenly freed and came out. Lost in my garage somewhere. I had to drive a screwdriver between the mag box and the floorplate to get it off. This was after removing the plunger and spring! I finally got it. This is FUN. I will be cold bluing this one, as I don't have an airbrush, and the new oven is off limits. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...t=TurkBolt1.jpg Pic of bolt, polished but not blued

oops

Any day hunting is always good. Seeing deer only makes it better. To me, it is the whole experience of being with family and friends, spending time in the woods, and the potential to bring home a deer. I really enjoy taking a deer, but that is icing on an already exceptional experience.

I was copying most of the steps on the Wagner site for the cut/forged method. For what it took I think I would weld on a new handle next time. A bit more length would be nice. I live and I learn. The pipe was filled with water. This is lightweight fire sprinkler pipe. If I put the cap on tight it also clamped down on the squared remnants of the bolt. This was due to the taper of the pipe threads. I had wanted to use schedule 40 pipe for this, but Allied XL pipe actually worked better, otherwise I would have had to thin the pipe at the slot to get the bolt to stick out far enough. Thanks for the words of encouragement, and esp the suggestions. I am winging-it on this project. I would not ever have dreamt of doing these types of things, were it not for forums like this, and people like you to help.

My father and I got this bolt bent. We spent a lot more time on it than expected, 4 hours including cooling and BS time. We had pits, and we had to rebend to clear scope and stock. We had quite a time of it, but I HOPE we got it to where it will work adequately. I just hope it doesn't shatter like glass at the first shot. Here are some pics. First I cut it with 3 dremel wheels, just like Steve Wagner said it would take. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt1.jpg Then I put it into my 1" water immersion pipe. I shimmed it up with a 16 penny nail. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt2.jpg Then we bent it. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt3.jpg Then we gas welded it. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt4.jpg Then we rebent it to clear scope and stock.. Then we rewelded it to get rid of the pits i found when grinding. I think we got it now. Now I have to clean it up a bunch more, whittle on the stock, and probably take a bit off of the receiver. Quite a project. The water immersion seemed to work, tho at times it sucked away too much heat. At last we heated up the cocking cam and quenched it with water. Geez I hope this works.

I will be drilling without a jig, but with a drill press. I thought you had to have the barrel pulled to use one of those anyway. I am keeping it in 8mm, hence no pulled barrel. I would like to acquire all of these cool tools, but I keep finding companies that run out of work. I have been laid off 4 times this year. I am also very cheap, and like to feel clever for getting by with less. I will not be changing to 1 piece on this gun. I liked Wagners rubberband trick, but I doubt it will work as well on 2 piece. I just thought that with the thumb notch in the receiver that 2 piece would look nicer, and I could use both thumbs for loading/unloading.

I made a water immersion out if a piece of 1" pipe about 18" long with threaded caps. I cut a slut in it from one end about the proper width for the stub of the handle to stick out of. I was going to block it up from the bottom with the handle sticking out. I was planning on cutting most of the way through, then heating and bending it to where I wanted it, then gas welding it up. I am both cheap, and on a budget, so i was trying to avoid buying a bunch of stuff to do this. Plus I like making something out of nothing for cheap. My arc welding skills don't include this kind of weld, and I can really lay it down with gas. I was warned that the heat may creep through inside of the piece even if the bolt is immersed. Will this work?

I am working on a Turk sporter. I have decided to be difficult and use 2 piece bases. I am looking at all options of 2 piece. What do all of you recommend for a budget built sporter. I have shortened and recrowned at 21 inches. Cut stock off and added a 2 1/2 maple tip. Reshaped stock. I sealed the stock with 2 coats of BLO. Now I have to cut and reweld handle. I am interested in Lauer finishes, but I will probably re-blue this one as it is cheaper, and I have no access to blasting equipment. http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...=snowMauser.jpg

I have an M38, and a 91/30. I was dissapointed with their accuracy. I tried some silver bear ammo in my M38, and it loves it. I have a red dot scope on a Darrels scout mount on it. I have carried it deer hunting with wolf 200gr softpoints. I shot 3 100yard groups about 1 1/2 inches with silver bear, best yet. The red dot is a bit large for hair splitting precision, but it sure is cool. I love this little carbine. Now I just need to see if my shotgun 91/30 likes this ammo, sure hope so. Thanks Keith Semper Fi