MorgansBoss

We do this in our youth program. When my boys were small I also made a Ritz cracker "target thrower" from some scrap metal and a screen door spring for use with smoothbore .22s. That was fun.

Not familiar with the above but I do know a thing or two about the BFR in 45-70. My two best friends are 45-70 junkies and each just had to have one! Surprisingly, with hot 300gr. handloads its no worse than a M29 w/ 240gr. 44mags. Weight does wonderful things in mitigating recoil. Also at 6' 6" I have big hands, I can see it being a challenge for smaller folks. It is a blast to shoot though! ...no pun intended

A couple tools in addition to those suggested above that are handy yet affordable: 4-in-hand rasp. This is a 1/2 round rasp on one end and cut file on the other, about 8" long. The flip side has the same cuts but in a flat configuration. Stanely (or any other brand) "sur-form" rasps - both flat and round. The short four inch rasp shaped like a block plane is very handy but I keep a twelve incher to. The round rasp can be used both as a rasp as well as the end being used as a scraper if the little handle thingy on the end is removed. These are popular for auto body work and can be found in auto parts stores fairly cheap. The blades are replaceable. A set of small gouges. These can be the cheapies sold at hobby shops for about fifteen bucks since as DT said, it's the edge that counts. They usually come with a variety of shapes but the 3/16 or 1/4 "chisel" and the half-round will be the most used. A GOOD sharpening stone (I like Norton's fine India). Keep this stone for nothing but sharpening your tools - NOT polishing receivers, etc. Keep it clean and well lubed. A can of WD-40 with the red tube on the nozzle is great as you can lube your stone AND blow the dirt out with the same blast! Wrap the stone in a slightly oily rag for storage. Also, learn to use the stone properly! Sharp cutting tools are pure pleasure, dull ones are dangerous! A good assortment of sandpaper. Not the "fine, medium and course" flint paper but good paper with the grits marked in numbers! 60 to 400 is a good range. I like Norton's "No-fill Adalox" but its not always easy to find. Garnet paper is next best (for wood work). The finer grits will be in black colored silicon carbide (wet or dry). Finally - several sanding blocks. These can be improvised like DT's rifle barrel and blocks of scrap wood, or you can get the fancy rubber ones. Either way get in the habit of ALWAYS backing you paper with something besides your fingers. This may add up to more than you want to spend, but you needn't buy em all at once. Great deals can often be had at flea markets and discount stores. However, as with most things, good tools make good work. If you're serious about doing good work, you will have to invest in the tools. As an example of how cheap tools can be used; I recently bought two sets of nice looking wooden handled screw drivers on close-out at a chain store. Of course they were six each - 3 slotted & 3 philips - of standard configuration screw drivers. I re-ground them to various hollow ground shapes and now have an impressive rack of rosewood and brass handled "turn screws." While shopping think "what I need" instead of getting bogged down by "what they have."

http://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/

No good on really rough stuff but for finishing it off in those tough to reach places (maybe after using the dremel stones) get some cratex wheels and points. Midway (I think) has em on sale as cheap as I've seen em... which they aren't, but they sure are handy when nothing else will do. Use a gentle touch with em though because they will leave a wavy surface otherwise.

FC Looks like you found what you need but a cut is a double cut file (lines crossing in a vee shape) while a smooth cut is (as the name implies) a finer cut file. As you might expect, a second cut is in the middle. I like mill cut files for draw filing. BTW - most files will do some damage both ways but if you get in the habit of lifting your file on the back stroke it wont load up as fast. If you don't already have one invest in a file card - a wooden paddle shaped gizmo with very short angled wires - it will save a lot of frustration when your files do get pinned.

"Upland birds- up. Pheasant hunting now is vastly better than in the 1970's, and duck and goose populations are way up over 1940. Deer numbers are the same. Cost is a detractor on larger game, but not so on game accessible through CRP lands." Excellent point, however it is only true in those parts of the country with the lower human populations! Upland birds are in serious trouble in most of the areas with easy access to the most people. Waterfowl numbers fluctuate wildly and right now we are at a high, but waterfowling is one of the most expensive of the sports to get involved in with specialized clothing, boots, decoys, boats,etc... Waterfowling was my passion for many years and I devoted much of my life that would have been better spent elsewhere to it. Its exciting but not conducive to low-budget recruitment. Other small game - rabbits, squirrels, etc. - are still plentiful but the longer deer seasons often put small game hunters at conflict with deer hunters. Many simply don't go because "the woods are full of deer hunters." I have never been a fan of competition shooting for novices simply because being a novice they are likely to be intimidated by the advanced shooters, their specialized (and expensive) equipment and particularly, their high score. This leads to disappointment fast and a waning interest. Not surprisingly some of the "fun" sports such as sporting clays where friends can shoot together without the pressure of high competition, are among the most popular among new shooters. I don't want to sound like I'm giving a eulogy for the sports. I to hope for the best. To turn things around though will take something nobody has found yet. I wouldn't continue to volunteer my time to recruit and train new shooters if I thought it was fruitless. It is frustrating though. The secret, if there is one, I think is to make time spent with your gun a fun experience. When it becomes more like a job - tough competition or long gameless hours on stand - the less devoted tend to drop out and it is they we need the most! It is the fringe who can go either way we will need when it comes to a referendum.

I hate to disagree but I think the criteria you are basing your conclusion on is deceptive. Sporting goods store, FFL's etc. are a good indicator of activity in "the sports" and, yes, the health of same but our crux is recruitment. The average participant in "the sports" is a white male between 45 and 55 years of age. That is to say the largest user group. That said, they are also in the age group with the greatest disposable income to devote to their hobby and typically have been involved in it long enough to have developed the interest in the stores and activities you quote. The facts are indisputable though that recruitment of young people has been on the decline since the mid-seventies. If you think about that date, perhaps you will agree with me that it coincides with two major detractors from recruitment of young people with limited funds and time - the crash of small game populations and the rise of computers and video games. Most of us who developed an interest in hunting did so on small game - rabbits, squirrels and upland birds. While the upland game populations have suffered drastic decline over the last thirty+ years, as well as places to hunt them, we have also seen a concentration on deer hunting. Modern deer hunting is largely much more expensive per man/hour than small game hunting. Not only in equipment but the recent advent of "lease hunting." This detracts from satisfaction - fewer animals bagged (an undeniable factor in "hooking" novices) as well as more time invested per shot taken. Compared to action-packed video games, hours and days spent on a deer stand without a shot is boring! Add to this the equipment needed, maybe a hunting fee in addition to licenses and tags, typical cold temperatures, and the modern emphasis on instant gratification... Small game hunting is typically more active - walking rather than sitting. There are typically more shots taken. The limits are larger and you can take a limit every day of the long season. Not so with deer. Yeah deer seasons are long and limits are liberal today, but those limits are largely antlerless deer with one or two bucks per "season" (rifle, M/L, archery). Then of course the emphasis is on taking a "Big Buck" failing that, satisfaction declines for the novice. I've been instructing novice hunters for over ten years and I'd guess ( I have no hard data) that at least 50% of those eager students under 15, all hepped up to shoot their first deer will give up the sport within five years. Typically they want to spend time afield with a loved one. As interests change (girlfriends/ boyfriends, jobs, school, etc.) they drift away. Some come back later but not the numbers we need to sustain "the sports." Partly its urbanization of our population. Partly its the instant gratification of video games, partly its the game department's emphasis on deer and deer hunting and partly its our own fault for various reasons. The results though cannot be denied. Can the decline be reversed? Maybe, but I don't have the answer. The outdoor sports are alive and well. It is a profitable venue but they are undeniably dieing a very slow death. When we eventually reach the point where our detractors can push us aside, they will.

This is an issue I have given considerable thought to as well - both 257Roberts AND 7x57. As Ned Roberts' cartridge used the 7x57 case and more or less equaled its pressures, AND the M93's were originally chambered in this round, all would seem well. However we are also cautioned to keep M93's below roughly 45000 CUP, which as Clark stated, equates generally to around 54000PSI. We do see pressure listings for both of these cartridges above this level though. Whats more many sources list the 257 at slightly higher pressures than the 7x57 OR vice-versa. Then the critical factor of handloading comes into play where pressures are dependant on the data used and the user's adherence to same... Are M93's safe with either of these cartridges? Given a sound rifle and factory or conservative hand loads, I think so. However we must always consider who may end up with the rifle in the unforeseeable future and their knowledge and prudence. To that end I would suggest considerable caution in making absolutely sure the rifle is in top drawer condition and as always, be sure to obviously mark caliber designation.

For anyone on a limited budget (aren't we all?) or with limited shop space AND willing to accept the limitations these are terrific machines. If you're shopping though, you might want to consider Grizzley's current deal on 9x19 lathes for $750. These have been marked down TWICE in the past month from $895 originally. The tooling included with Grizzley's machines is outstanding and to purchase for the less expensive minis would double their price... but yes, the minis are a great starter, just keep in mind that its not a "big lathe" and don't overstep its intened abilities and you'll be happy!

I can tell you from experience (sort of) that this idea will work. I used a very similar arrangement several months ago on a M93 conversion to the right-side 2-position safety I described above. Rather than as a bolt locking mechanisms though (I to feel this feature is more of a handicap than an advantage on a sporting rifle) I used it to keep shroud and bolt indexed. Due to the pre-M98's not having the shroud locking plunger on the left side there is a tendency for them to back out sometimes. I used the plunger & spring method you outline above only with a convex end on the plunger and a matching detent notch on the bolt. The only drawback to such modifications (I've tried several detent & lock screw ideas in the past) is the difficulty in drilling and or tapping the shroud.

Beau, you should be a very proud man. Not merely for the talent involved in making such a work but more so for your gift of it to your step-mom. She is unusually lucky as such relationships go to have a child such as yourself. Too frequently such relationships are strained to say the least. Both parties misunderstanding or worse, resenting each other. Accepting your dad's wife shows tremendous maturity and love - not just for her but for him. I've rambled too much on this boring O/T subject. Take my word for it, she'll forget all about the birthday when she sees this!

EXCELLENT!!!!! This gives a much improved appearance over the kits sold commercially for converting original shrouds. Thanks for sharing! Might have to try one this winter.

"assemble the mess, check for feeding, and tweak as necessary" Your "idea" is pretty much what I did with my 444Marlin project. Used a length of square bar stock inside the heated magazine to re-shape it though. It was the " check for feeding, and tweak as necessary" part that finally sent her to the back of the rack though. Take my word for it, "tweak" is a very conservative term for what it takes to make these things feed with fat, blunt cartridges!

I'm no authority but I do know... well, assuming DT's trigger guard is like most M/L parts that is, that we're talking about two very distinctly different casting processes. Old style casting as used in most M/L parts and in fact most "cast" parts is not the same or nearly as controlled as modern "investment casting" methods. Hence the quality of the products produced is very different as well. Sorry, I don't know enough about it to explain the differences but I do know it ain't the same animal. There is good and bad in each (as in everything) and you could get unusually lucky or unlucky respectively. Someone posted a link to a blown Sako receiver some time back - the result of an apparent a flaw in the casting. By the same token Ruger actions are frequently touted as among the strongest and in this age of litigation paranoia, Ole Bill sure wouldn't have pioneered using investment casting to produce them if it wasn't a reliable process. Of course as with ANY action the proper heat treatment received (or not) will make all the difference in the world assuming the best of both cast or forged receivers is the subject at hand. In short, I personally have NO QUALMS about investment cast parts from a reliable source. My personal opinion and nothing more.

Ya'll just aren't going to rest till you get me started back into that danged MN project are you? Some of you may remember me messing with an M44 some time ago. Changed the barrel to a 444Marlin - yup, the barrels DO come off, they're tight but doable. There are two major stumbling blocks to MN conversions as opposed to something like a Mauser. First off, as z1r said, there is the bolt face and extractor. The 7.62x54R has a massive head size for a small to medium bore cartridge. My original idea was for a 30-30 to, but I think the difficulty in reducing the bolt face and re-positioning the extractor would be more trouble than its worth if even possible. Especially when M340 Savages in 30-30 regularly sell for $200 or less. Secondly, again as someone already pointed out, the magazine is also specifically designed for this unusual size and shaped cartridge. Adapting it to something else is a nightmare! In fact it was the magazine "issues" that finally prompted me to put mine aside until someday when I have more time and patience. On the plus side - it made a neat little, well balanced, big bore carbine. I used a "new" but long stored away M94 Win. barrel from Numrich that only cost me a few bucks - around thirty as I recall. The shank was too small and required some "inventive measures" but once screwed together the few test shots I fired with it (about 50) proved accurate and recoil, while stout, was manageable in the "supposed to be walnut but turned out to be stained hardwood" stock I got from center fire systems. If I HAD TO make a recommendation to someone who insisted on building a sporter on one of these, my advise to would be to stick with the original chambering. There is a lot of potential in the rifles themselves and much of their inherent ugliness can be improved, but due to the peculiarities of the cartridge, the alternative choices are slim to nil unless you have a lot more time and money than most folks.

Alright! Now I can open it. Looks good Beau. I just got back from a store run and on the way home was thinking about starting a thread on re-styled stocks. Maybe I don't have to... You did a nice job on this one. As corelock mentioned the stock disc, I added a cheek piece on one side and inletted the (cut-off) head of a cartridge of the appropriate caliber on the other side to hide the hole on two such projects.

The only thing I'd caution you on now that you've been successful is that cold blues tend to go bad if gotten real wet. If you hunt in the rain you may have yet another disappointment in store.... I can here you from here - "Now he tells me!" Not to worry though. Now that you know what to do, if it gets too hokey just strip her down and re-do it! Actually its not all that bad, but they just aren't as durable as a hot blue job... but then we don't expect them to be do we?

Good start! Time permitting with the holidays and such I'll try to trace one or two out as well. Thanks Beau!

MN bolts are much easier to weld than Mausers (and their kin) due to the seperate bolt head. No worry about screwing up the lugs! You guys keep this up and you're going to get me interested in picking up my old project!

I toyed with one a year or so back, never completely worked out the bugs but it was a major overhaul - actually a complete re-manufacture. Two suggestions I'd make although it may be more than you want to do are to simply cut off and weld on a new bolt handle - the original is really too short to forge - and consider a cantilever scope base. By doing so you can mount a regular scope in the normal position. The one pictured here is actually a two-piece mount but requires major modification including a new (one-of-a-kind so far) safety to do away with the "over the bridge" safety of the original. The receiver ring is extra long on these rifles and the action short enough that a cantilever mount made from Weaver-base stock material should be possible. This does require a 90 degree bolt handle though, which in turn requires shortening the right-side of the bridge slightly to allow passage of the bolt (rib and handle) under the scope. As I said, it may be more than you're willing to put into these rifles, but a consideration for the future at least.

Oak is one tough wood but the major problem I see is weight. It is HEAVY! There is a lot of Osage orange - or as its locally know, hedge apple - at my buddy's farm. I'm hoping to try a slab of it for a blank one day. I can see some difficulty in working it but it is a beautiful honey color and TOUGH!

Can't open the pic but I'm glad everything turned out for you. If at first you don't succeed...

No entries so far. Anybody opposed to combining with Jan?

Weagle and others, Hope I didn't give the wrong impression although re reading my post it sure sounds that way. My intent was to offer my personal opinion on lever releases. For me - and maybe its just my personal traits in holding the rifle - it was simply in the way. I don't like protruding magazines for the same reason. Most of my rifles end up with wear and rust on the floor plate - again - for the same reason. The rifle in question was a .243Win w/ Rem. barreled Turk action. Danged accurate rifle but the guard I used had the lever release, dumped the mag at least twice I can remember while groundhogging. Quite the annoyance! Can't hardly imagine it but I've heard of people accidentally punching "through the guard" type releases during recoil (must a been a big boomer!) as well. I've never accidentally opened a Winchester-style plunger release. In fact you gotta WANT to open one of these things to do so. I'd suppose the Zastavia "side button" would be pretty sure as well but I've never used one. Like cock-on-close bolts and right/left safeties I'm sure its a matter of what you're used to or can GET used to, but for me lever releases are off my list of accessories! Jason - likewise, I hope I didn't hurt your feelings with the stock comments. My humor is frequently misread. I've had a bunch of lumber look much worse at that stage of the process! Keep chipping away (no pun intended), you'll have a stock to be proud of one day.