carzngunz

I think the Talley handles are made from 1018 or 1020. I have made a few myself from low carbon steel and had absolutely no problems. I have also made some from tool steel and sometimes welding that stuff is a little more difficult. If you have difficulty getting a smooth finish on the low carbon stuff just hit it with some sandpaper while its still chucked up in the lathe.

I have a few of these Turks that have a lot of muzzle wear. I thought that they may have been counterbored at first but it is just wear. One in particular shoots Turk surplus ammo decently at 100 yds, 3 in. groups or so, but at 400 yds you can't hit a 6 ft square target! I intend to cut the barrel and recrown if I can find the spare time.

Swamprat, My take on it is that you will go to jail! Most cops I know don't know all of these laws very well. As was stated before a weapon is a weapon, no matter when it was made.

Welcome! As you already know stock selection is rather limited, especially with synthetic stocks. You should be able to find a laminated or walnut stock to suit you though. I don't see too many other problems with your action selection. The 24/47 is a good choice. Sometimes the 308 family of cartridges feed well and sometimes they require a little work. That goes for any model 98 action. Either way it's not too difficult to get them to feed well. I'm kinda fond of my 308 but pick whichever cartridge you want, first, because once you start down this path you will be hooked and there will be many more opportunities for different cartridges!

Clemson, I worked on a couple of K-Kales that looked like the barrels had never touched the inner shoulder. They were rough and scary looking. I made up a tool similar to yours, but as rough as they were, I ended up using some fine grit, adhesive backed, closed coat sanding disks on the end. If you take your time and don't apply too much pressure you can get a good and accurate job. Both of mine ended up at less than 0.001" difference. I was very pleased considering the original condition.

I recently welded up the holes in a VZ 24 receiver. I just tig welded the holes up and it looked great. Everything looked great until I tried to redrill the holes. The receiver was not difficult to drill the first time but after welding it was next to impossible. I ended up having to spot anneal the welded areas. If at all possible I would try the larger screws, if not keep the hardness in mind and check closely before ruining a drill. What did I learn? Check your drilling jig closely, if using one, and make sure the holes are straight. It's a lot easier than plugging and redrilling!

I'm not real fond of magnums, but there is, probably, more loading info and ballistic info for the 300 than the 7mm. Just something to take into consideration.

A lot of these Asian made machines need a thorough cleaning inside and out before use. I have a small Chinese made lathe and the headstock was full of dirt and metal chips. If I had not been warned prior to use this would have caused major problems. As it is the machine has been great after getting it cleaned up. You might want to take a look at yours if you haven't already.

I've been waiting on z1r. He always makes these discussions much more interesting. As for the thread relief, you can cut a very narrow one just to the depth of the minor diameter of the threads. By threading it "backwards" you don't have to worry about trying to stop the cut in that short space. You will still have at least as much material in the ring than if it were threaded for large ring threads. You also shouldn't lose too much thread contact area, especially with the finer threads. It's just an idea anyway!

What Tinker said! I had the same problem and that was the same solution!

I don't think that I would want to try to cut the threads with a tap. Just fabricating a piloted tap in the correct size would be a major undertaking not to mention trying to bore the receiver ring straight and true. I think it would be best to do this in a lathe. Now I know that not everyone has a lathe at home, and I do believe that if it came down to it I could probably bore the front ring in a drill press, but the tap idea has me stumped, a little. I can't see an easy way to do this without having at least 2 taps unless you wanted to grind the tapered part off of one to make a bottom tap, after using it first. As far as the pilot goes you could probably solder a piece of stock to the tap but it would still need to be trued up afterwards. My whole train of thought keeps leading me back to machine tools and if that's the case the whole job can be done on a lathe. My thinking on this is to keep the cash outlay to a bare minimum using what you have or can borrow or trade out, so the project is still reasonable. As for the hardness of the receiver, I haven't seen one of these Turks yet that was so hard that it would be difficult to machine. The threaded area should be a fairly even hardness after cutting the threads away. I wouldn't worry about the cost too much if it doesn't work out. The receivers are generally cheaper than the Remington take off barrels. I have bought several at gunshows for about $15. Lastly I've got a tip for turning the internal threads that makes it a little easier in tight places. Turn the receiver backwards and cut the threads from left to right. That way you start the cut at the end of the blind hole and you can run the threading tool all the way out of the workpiece. This way sure is easier in a small blind hole.

Beautiful rifle! That kinda makes all those exams worthwhile!

OK, it's almost Christmas and there have been very few controversial topics lately, with the exception of Kyle's barrel bushing question so here goes. Has anyone rethreaded a K.Kale receiver to the Remington 700 thread size or even considered doing this? The main reason for considering this would be to use inexpensive Remington barrels chambered in magnum calibers. Inexpensive switch barrel project, etc.. Possibilities, Possibilities. I will say up front that it is possible to set up a receiver in a lathe accurately enough to rethread it. You may have to make up a jig to hold it but it can be done. I will also say up front that I really don't have any use for most magnum calibers right now but I have given this some consideration and I thought that I would throw the idea out here for discussion. So what about it?

I've got a Turk Mauser with a Rem. 700 243 barrel that I cut to 18". It shoots and handles well, but it's not an 8mm either. By the way I am also starting a twin project to this one in 308, also 18". I wouldn't want all my barrels that short but it sure makes a handy rifle.

Check out some of your local industrial supply houses. Clover lapping compound is more of an industrial product and most supply business' carry it.

ER Shaw will thread a barrel for the small ring threads if you tell them that you have the Turk action. They are fairly reasonable also. You might also think about having the barrel chambered long so that all you will need to find are some headspace guages. Being from GA. you shouldn't have too much problem finding a local machinist to set the shoulder back on the barrel. It only takes a few minutes of work. If you ask around, especially friends and co-workers, I am sure you will find someone who would be glad to help out.

At one time Springfield Sporters had some parts. I bought a barrel from them but that was before their reorganization. It still wouldn't hurt to give them a call.

I shortened a Choate stock about 1 1/4". That's about as short as you can get it without major mods due the stock being hollow. The forearm is also mostly hollow and really can't be shortened at all. It's a very light weight stock.

I scored 94% Dixie. I wonder what happened to my other 6%?

Really beautiful work!

I sandblasted the metal on one with fine sand and blued it with the Mark Lee Express Blue. It looks real similar to the finish on the Remington barrels.

Great Looking Rifle! Be proud!

I've been looking at building a tactical / longer range rifle in 6.5mm and was planning on using a Lothar Walther barrel. I haven't decided on which chambering I am going to use but Lothar Walther lists their 6.5-55 barrels as having a land diameter of 0.256 and a groove diameter of 0.265. they list all their other 6.5 chamberings as having a land diameter of 0.254 and a groove diameter of 0.264. As has been mentioned all other chamberings are more expensive.

I bought a K.Kale Turk at a gunshow with the intention of making a sporter out of it. When I disassembled it I found the breech end of the barrel had been ground down on one side. It looked original and I guess that maybe some Turkish armorer did it in the field with a blindfold and one arm tied behind his back! Anyway after inspecting it I found that the extractor was hitting the barrel. I tried many different bolts and swapped twice as many extractors and never could get a combination that didn't protrude at least .020" past the inner ring. I used that receiver to practice all kinds of stuff but sooner or later I will rebarrel it with a slight clearance cut for the extractor. I will do it with a file of course!

fritz, I know what you mean about that trigger. My m44 feels like you pull it at least 1/4 mile through a gravel pit with the cocking piece assembly doing a little dance the whole time!