carzngunz

I really like these turk magnum discussions. It looks like the small ring threads in the receiver should clean up and make rethreading to 1.06-16 possible. The minor diameter of the 1.06-16 threads should be just under 1". Keeping the tap straight will be a challenge though. All in all I think it's possible but getting the old threads cleaned up and the new ones cut straight is critical. By the way Travers Tool has all three styles of 1 1/16-16 taps for $39.50.

I personally won't get around to following up on the color case hardening until after I get my single shot falling block rifle finished. That will be a pretty good while after I finally get started! I have been trying to start on it for about 5 years now! If you are interested give Fred a call. I think you would enjoy talking with him and I am sure he can give you an idea of the cost. As I said before the actions I saw looked great. He also had a mauser action with an octagonal barrel that he had tapered the barrel right into the receiver. Now that was different.

There was some discussion a while back on color case hardening and the lack of someone to do the work. I had the opportunity to talk to Fred Cianciolo of Low Tech Gunsmithing at a show today. He seemed like a fine man with which to do business, but one thing really caught my eye on his table. He had 2 or 3 mauser actions that were color case hardened. These were REALLY great looking actions and I don't especially like that finish on a mauser action. I got a price sheet from him but that finish says "price on request." I guess that's understandable considering all the variables that one could encounter. His website is: www.gun-shop.biz Phone: 1-866-308-4570 How's that for a phone number?

I would add a couple of things to all this good advice. First look at bedding the entire receiver along its full length. Due to the way the stock is made it will give you some additional support and help keep the action located. Second, one line of thinking is that the bottom of the recoil lug sould have some clearance between it and the stock. I found this to be a problem with one of my rifles and after rebedding it my stringing problem cleared right up. Another, larger problem for me with the Choate stock was that the forearm was very flimsy and required a little stiffening. After getting it all straightened out I really like the stock and am considering getting another.

I'm not sure that any of these screws were designed as metric. As someone else already stated screw sizes weren't very standardized back then. It could be that Paul just designed the screw to do the job at hand. 4mm is 5/32" and .7 pitch is 36 tpi. Maybe just a coincidence. I'm not sure about the 6.5 pitch either but I'm not going to search for one just to try it out. I'm not sure about this, my history is kinda weak, but I think that the numbered machine screw sizes were an American invention after the turn of the century. Either way I believe that if you need to clean up some threads or even thread a new screw a 4mm-.7 split die will work just fine. Afterall it has a couple of things going for it. It fits and the dies are cheap and easy to get! Not to mention the fact that none of my screws fit tight into the threads of my bolt stops anyway!

Here's something else to think about, an M3.5 screw, as mentioned above, has the same OD as a #6 machine screw.

Alright Clemson, now you've gone and started another one. I think that the screw is pointed so that it would originally push into the wooden stock to support that end of the screw since it is a pivot point for the bolt stop assembly and not really a fastener! Hows that for winging it with not one shred of proof?

DON'T GO NUTS TINKER!! This is part of the fun! Do us a favor and check the threads with your guage again. I checked them and I gave the screw to two other machinists at separate times and asked them to tell me what size the threads were. I got the same look but also the same answer from both. I never have a simple problem. The O.D. of the threads measures 0.153" on one and 0.154" on another. Simple enough to measure but not real close to anything standard except that it is about 5/32". 5/32" being 0.156". A #8 machine screw has an O.D. of 0.164". Most screws will be a few .001's under nominal but not this much. 4mm is about 0.157". All three of us measured the threads at either 36 tpi or .7mm pitch. The pitch of 36 tpi is 0.0277". The inch measurement for .7mm pitch is 0.0276". The pitch of 32 tpi is 0.0313" or 0.794mm. This is further from either of our other "guesses". I learned a long time ago that you can make threads with any OD and pitch that you want. It doesn't necessarily have to be a "standard" size screw! I'm not saying that 'ole Paul made these screws metric but he couldn't have gotten much closer if he had tried! Let us know what you find.

Sailormilan2, definitely no apologies necessary! I've been fooling with mechanical stuff just about my whole life and I still learn new things almost daily. I am not positive that the threads are 4mm-.7 but it does fit my parts. I am almost positive that with the closeness of the thread pitches, you could run the .75 pitch screw through the hole with a screwdriver. The parts wouldn't be happy but it can be done, afterall there are only 4 threads on the screw! My comments on using the tap to check threads comes from my personal experience over many years. I've messed up my share of threads, even when I knew better! donmarkey has some very good advice. If at all possible, check out the tips and advice you get from others before laying out your hard earned cash. I've learned a great deal from the people on this board and I think most would agree with his advice. My favorite situation is when a bunch of people chip in to solve a problem and the solution ends up being a combination of many suggestions.

On the subject of files: At one of the schools I went to, we used a flat file with a bump in the center of the file. As we were told,"...you can not get this surface perfectly flat with a flat file because the flat file isn't flat enough...". You didn't want to get caught using any part of that file other than the bump!

I have an update to the thread issue. Since my last post I have tried two different 4mm-.75 pitch screws in all of my bolt stops. Neither would screw all the way through the threaded portion. As I stated before, the 4mm-.7 pitch screws fit well. I think the problem is comming from trying to screw a tap through the threads. Taps are designed and made to cut metal. You really shouldn't use a tap to check thread fits. Unless it is the correct size you will almost always damage the threads. The smaller and finer that the threads are, the easier it is to damage them. As for this problem, if you run a 4mm-.75 tap through 4mm-.7 threads it will require very little effort and you may even be able to turn it by hand. The difference in pitch is only .05mm. That's less than .002". The threads are also very shallow. Add to this that you are only cutting across the threads that are already there and you can see how little effort would be required to cut the new thread pattern. Then you end up with two different thread pitches in one very small hole. The point I am trying to get across is that you shouldn't ever use a tap to check thread fits, use a regular machine screw of the proper size and if it doesn't fit,then there is less chance of causing any damage.

I am in need of several of these screws myself so I have been waiting for the definitive answer. Since no one has stepped up and said "I know for sure what size it is", I measured the last one I have thats not in a gun. Mine has some wear so the measurements aren't going to be exact and the thread diameter isn't a standard size so I still don't have a definite answer. It is either 5/32 diameter with 36 tpi or its 4mm-.7 pitch. I can tell you for sure that a standard 4mm-.7 machine screw turns right in the 4 ejector boxes I have in front of me, with a pretty good fit. When I make some of these I will probably use a 4mm split die to cut the threads. Thats a lot easier than trying to cut those fine threads, up to a shoulder, on a lathe.

I ran across this a little while ago searching for other material. http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles/custo..._700_action.htm Although they are talking about a larger case, 378 Weatherby, 416 Rigby, the chamber wall thickness is the same as our small ring Mauser magnum. Mr. Lilja seems to have some concerns of his own as to the chamber wall thickness being approximately 0.200". Just thought I would pass this on.

I did not realize that there were modern actions that used barrels threaded that small. This being the case I wouldn't think there would be any problems using the Turk. Like Jimro I am not into recoil, but I would like to have a 300 or a 338 just say I have one. I'm also on your side Clark, I am all into improved sensations!

First, which commercial receivers are threaded for .980" or smaller od threads? I don't have too many commercial rifles but I do have a couple of Turks and this has interested me for a while now. If other rifles have their magnum chambers machined into a barrel that is basically .900" (.980"- .083" for the threads), then doing the same on a Mauser should be no problem. My only concern has always been that with the effective barrel diameter at about .900" and the largest case diameter of say a 300 Win Mag at about .513" that only leaves less than .200" of material around the chamber. 60,000psi chamber pressures and that small amount of metal doesn't give me a warm enough feeling to want to put my face behind the bolt. It may be perfectly safe but I don't have any proof either way. I would like to build a magnum chambered rifle on one of my Turks but I think I will need some more input before I take that chance. Second, the threaded joint won't ever be as strong as a solid piece of steel of the same size. It's just not possible to get that kind of fit and still be able to screw the parts together, not to mention the incredibly accurate machining that would be necessary to get the threads to mate up that close.

Great looking rifle! Keep us updated on how the 220gr bullets work. I have one in the works and that sounds like an interesting idea.

Jan is fine with me. I'm still trying to make November's shoot!

I have three of the Timney safeties, several of the cheap left hand models and one of the Chapman style two position side swings. The Timneys work great. Like roscoedoh, I really like the two position side swing. It's not the prettiest when installed but it works well and is easier for me to use than the other style. Several people have said a lot of negative things about them lately but other than looks, they hold the striker back just like all the other ones. Also it CAN be installed with a drill, 6-48 tap, cutoff wheel and a file.

My 25-06 has 1909 argie bottom metal and I can put 120gr Sierras into the rifling with no clearance problems at all.

I might have missed this but how many rounds per target? I started to say "holes" but that number is usually 1 anyway.

Great looking rifle!

Very Nice!! I am interested to hear how it shoots. Please keep us posted!

Sign me up!

I am going to go out on a limb here and vote for something really radical. Are you ready? 30-06 ! It's probably the most versatile cartridge around. It will kill an elk as dead as it will ever be and a wide variety of good ammo is available everywhere.

I have built one very similar to Clark's except that I left the bottom about 2" wider on each side. I use big c-clamps to hold it to my bench. It hasn't failed me yet, but I didn't have it when I rebarreled my Hakim!