Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Spiris

Members
  • Posts

    554
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Spiris

  1. The liberal dems have a tendency to buy votes using taxpayer funds and broken promises. The inclusion of Congressman Ryan has changed the face of the race. Ryan knows what he's talking about, and everyone knows it, and obama will resort to lies and distortions as usual. The question still remains whether Romney has the backing of the Conservatives as a whole and enough Independents, but it's looking a lot better since Ryan joined the team. Spiris
  2. That's my take on Turk small ring barrels, although I know of some who have done the magnum conversion on Turk K.Kales without incident, I would not do it myself. I would rather have the extra 1/8" of overall chamber thickness of a large ring barrel to work with, when using anything over the '06 size case. Spiris
  3. I offer no pretense as an expert, only as a hobby amateur at gun fabrication. Being around this site, as well as others, I have learned that pre-98 small ring Mausers should not be subjected to pressures and cartridges that exceed their design limits, and the metallurgy for the time. In their original calibers, they often have a small pad of design safety to work with, but most still suffer with the pre-98 issues of bolt design that was addressed with the M98. The only SR Mauser that I own is a M38 Swedish Mauser produced in 1941, and in spite of the superior(IMO)Swedish steel, I would not consider using a higher pressure round in it. There are many good M98's available, that lend themselves to stepping up to modern rounds. This is my hard and fast rule, and I use K.Kale Turk M98 actions for conversion, with confidence. IMO, the best action for the money is the full length VZ-24. Spiris
  4. Nice setup, and should be a blast to shoot with that caliber. Show some targets when you get a chance. I have a 10" 357 Maximum and a 14" 223 for my Contender. Spiris
  5. IMO, A&B barrels do benefit from a proper break in. Here's a portion of their description and break in procedure. "These barrels are made from premium quality 4140 Chrome Moly Steel then precision-reamed, button rifled, short chambered, stress relieved and air gauged to + or - .0002". The chambers are cut a nominal .050" short to allow for establishing correct headspace to a given receiver. The proper break-in procedure requires cleaning after each shot for the first five shots. Then cleaning after every five shots for the next 50 shots." Spiris
  6. That's decent shooting with the lighter weight bullets, and it shows that the long 142gr boat tail SMK won't stabilize in the 1in9" A&B twist at the velocity they are achieving out of that shorter barrel. Not to worry, as there are a bunch of 129-130gr and under bullet weights that will do the job, and the 123gr SMK shows good potential. There is no shame using flat base bullets either, and when talking bullets of equal weight, they are easier to stabilize in the slower twist that you have, and could possibly be more accurate. Here's a site that allows you to purchase small sample quantities of different brands to test, without having to buy a full box. http://www.bulletsamples.com/ Spiris
  7. I'm a barrel break in guy when using the budget A&B barrels, but they will usually shoot well after the proper break in recommendations by the maker. You probably should not allow a major heating of the barrel when starting out, as you should pace yourself. I would have selected at least the F-34 series barrel if not hunting. I wouldn't say that the poor group was caused by the new barrel, rather something appears loose, whether it's a scope issue or the action isn't sitting solid in the stock, it's really only a guess. Make sure that you have the correct length spacer for the rear action screw. I don't think that you have to buy a new stock at this point, just bed your action and check the screws in the scope bases and the rings, and make sure that you clean the copper out of the barrel. I'd like to add that the 1in9" twist will handle the 140gr type bullets if they are driven fast enough, but if you have some 129-130gr or 120gr 6.5 caliber bullets, try them also to make sure it's not the long 140gr bullets causing problems. There's a big difference between the flat base 140gr, and the boat tail 140gr. Congratulations on your build, you just need a little time to sort it out. Spiris
  8. Could be a couple things going on here. If your groups continue to deteriorate, check the barrel for copper build up in the muzzle area, and that build up can toss bullets all over the place. You didn't indicate what ammo you were using, but the fast twist milspec barrels do prefer the longer heavier bullets. If the barrel heats up, try spacing your 5 shot groups farther apart to allow some cooling. I've never cared for Ramline stocks because they are very flexible in the forend, and if you support the rifle over bags, even with the barrel floated, the flex may allow the stock to touch the barrel at different points, depending on the hold. Swede barrels are coveted for their accuracy potential, but conditions need to be right for that accuracy. Spiris
  9. Pleased to meet you drgoose. Always good information here, and I thought that I would add my 2 cents. I actually faced much the same quandary back several years ago when I was contemplating building some rifles for my own use, using milsurp actions or rifles. That was back when Turkish Mausers were cheap and plentiful, and I learned that Remington take off barrels could be re-threaded to fit the small ring Mauser threads of the Turk actions. I had some machine and math skills from my years working in a machine shop, and I calculated that I could use a mini-lathe to do the threading job required, without investing in a larger machine. I purchased a new Cummins 5278 7x12 Mini Lathe, and after practicing on old large ring Mauser barrels, my adventure in amateur gunsmithing began. So it can be done, using a steady rest and a live center and attention to detail and working within the limits of the machine. Mini-lathes won't do everything, but for me it was all I needed. I hand reamed my chambers using 4D rentals, and never had an issue. I learned a lot from the experts here, and I enjoy the rifles that I put together, and have pride in my creations. Here's a link to an interesting site. http://littlemachineshop.com/default.php Spiris
  10. Welcome to MFRC, mrontime, and congratulations on your build, it's a fine looking rifle. Nothing better than creating your own work of art, then sending some rounds downrange to verify. I stop in here at this forum occasionally, and like you, found a wealth of friendly information that allowed me to complete a few of my own Mauser customs. This site will not chastise you for being creative with your own firearm, unlike other sites that I've seen. Enjoy. Spiris
  11. Better late than never here, and I must say that I have nothing but respect for those with the equipment and knowledge, to spin up a barrel on a lathe large enough to cut and ream a chamber, and then fit it to the receiver and have the go and no-go gauges be thumbs up. I use a 7x12 mini-lathe that limits my options, and for me, I prefer to have short chambered barrels that have the exact tenon length that I make, so I can snug up the barrel and hand finish ream. I have a background in math, especially trig that comes in handy once in a while, and the discipline to measure twice and cut once. A sharp reamer and a guide has always given me clean, smooth chambers. I make do with what I have, and attention to detail has not failed me. In my case, a short chambered barrel is better. Spiris
  12. Another vote for 4D, always received clean and very sharp reamers, and never had an issue. Spiris
  13. Sorry, I missed the SR reference, and I've not done a SR myself, but it's likely to be similar, I would guess. Spiris
  14. A simple search brought this to light, but I didn't read it through, so I'm hoping it helps. Any low safety that I have installed was installation friendly. http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turklosafe.html Spiris
  15. Sorry for not getting back on your question. That was a Corelite stock, which was, I believe, bought out by the Fajen stock company of late, and they sell a version of it at MidwayUSA and other places. It's a bit thick in the wrist, but quite functional. Spiris
  16. You seem to be progressing nicely. I have used Steve Wagner's method for drilling scope mounts on all my conversions, and I've had no issues because I take my time and check and recheck before touching drill to metal. I sand blast and parkerize my Mauser's metal prior to the Duracoat, and I have only used the stainless and flat black coatings at this point, but have some Gun Blue to try in the future. Very light coatings with an airbrush on super clean metal that I hang in the sun to warm, will give you a tight, no drip coating, that is quite resistant to scratches and dings. The stainless contrasts nicely with the black synthetic stock but may be too bright in some hunting situations. Here's my Turk K.Kale fitted with an 8mm Swede barrel in stainless Duracoat. I've since fitted it with a small 4X Tasco and lower ring set. Spiris
  17. Several years ago, I decided that I would make a commitment to rework Mausers into sporters for my own use, on a limited budget. That was when Turk Mausers were flooding the market and I found a few of the K.Kale Turks in good condition at bargain prices. I found that Remington take off barrels were fairly cheap, and would fit a mini lathe for rethreading to the small ring threads of the Turks. I purchased a Cummins 7x12 Mini-lathe with some accessories and a larger 4" 3 jaw chuck, and practiced threading old junk LR 98 barrels with a steady rest and live center until I was ready to tackle the Remington barrels. If you take your time, the mini-lathe will work fine, and you do not need to ream the chambers in the lathe. I always hand ream my chambers after assembling, and if the reamers are sharp, they will recut a chamber in short order. Just my experience. Spiris
  18. I know that for some, it sticks in your craw that it seems that you have to compromise your principals in selecting a candidate, but I know that you see the Big Picture, and for the sake of America and ourselves, we absolutely need to fire obama the incompetent. The corruption of the obama administration is rampant, his executive orders and appointments border on unconstitutional, and his view of America is as a socialist by design. Whoever emerges as the GOP candidate will need and deserve our undivided support, because the alternative is not an option. "Anybody but obama" is the only choice that is viable, because another four years of obama, would spell disaster for the America that we know and love. I would love to see Mitch Daniels or Bobby Jindal in the fight, but alas, they are not. Spiris
  19. Sage advice, and it will take care of the misalignment and egg shaped holes. Just make sure that you clean up the underside of the rear bridge of any slag that may be there, with a small riffle file. Spiris
  20. M.D. Smith's site is a good one, just drop start loads around 10% as mentioned on his opening statement. He shows some carbine loads, but no 2400 loads. About the slowest powder listed is Blue Dot. http://www.reloadammo.com/45loads.htm From Handloads dot com site, a couple 2400 loads, again drop 10% to start. These are +P loads. http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=45%20ACP%20%20P&Weight=All&type=Handgun&Order=Powder&Source= Spiris
  21. Hey, hey, I resemble that remark. Sometimes it takes a while to see the first check, but they'll start coming quite regular, especially with direct deposit. Spiris
  22. Those non English speaking people certainly know how to work the system, and raising the next generation of entitlement demanding children. Maybe the pseudo-president can develop a beer card for his thirsty amigos. Spiris
  23. Yes, The Sportsman's Guide advertised that item for a couple years at the same price, and they also had the stock for the model. They no longer show the barrel in inventory so they likely sold the barrels to Centerfire Systems in KY. I bought my first C&R guns from Centerfire Systems back several years ago when I drove to KY from NC, and still have an original 1903 Turk Mauser from that purchase. Spiris
  24. Spiris

    Flash Hider

    If you really want to do this, Brownells has a selection of flash suppressors, including a couple 30 cal. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=flash%20suppressor/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=flash%20suppressor Spiris
  25. IMO, Newt has a lot to offer, as he's a brilliant politician, but his skeletons in the closet keep chasing him. On Newt and the draft, many remained in college for various reasons, but it congers up the melody of Creedence Clearwater Revival - Fortunate Son. An anti-war song many of us remember. Spiris
×
×
  • Create New...