Spiris

rivitir, the Swedish Mauser is a beautiful rifle, but it is a small ring Mauser and suffers the small ring short comings. They need to be used according to their design requirements. If you want a Mauser to build on using higher pressure loads, then a M98 or one of the Yugo versions would make more sense and chances are, would cost less than the Swede for the basic rifle. Just be aware that there are different types of Mausers, and some are more desirable than others, based on your needs. Spiris

brian923, the K.Kale Turk Mauser is something to consider. Large ring with small ring threads, they work fine for '06 based rounds. I have a few that I have built, with one in 270 Win that shoots well. I rethreaded a Remington barrel. They do sometimes require a little extra elbow grease to get a good metal finish. If you yank the barrel, check the lug seats for lug set back before building. All of mine were fine, but it's possible to run into a bad one being a milsurp Mauser. Here's a pic of my 270.

Converting a Turk Mauser is a lot of work, but can be rewarding when you complete it. As others have mentioned, a large ring Mauser barrel can be rethreaded to fit. You'll also need to rework your bolt handle if you scope it as well as D&T for scope mounts. Take your time and learn as you go. You have help here should you need it. Spiris

I take solace in the thought that God is watching over the Heroes of that terrible war, and all wars that put our freedoms at risk. I will never forget. Spiris

It looks like you'll have to split the case and access the motor/spindle ass'y and replace the brushes, but do look over the spindle where the brushes ride, for wear. It would be a shame to get it back together and still have a problem. Be sure it wasn't the outer windings of the motor that was smoking. Spiris

littlecanoe, sorry that your having problems. As you take it apart, check the commutator where the brushes run for visible grooves from the old brushes. If it's ok, then shine up the commutator with fine scotchbrite or sandpaper. Spray some contact cleaner to clean any debris from sanding. There is a method for checking the commutator for shorts but let's assume that it's ok. The brushes sometimes take patience to install so look them over and see if the brush cages have little pin holes so that you can access them from the exterior of the cordless plastic case body. Essentially you have to push the brush and spring down into the brush case and secure it into position using something like sewing needles so after reassembling you just pull the pins holding the brushes from the outside, so they drop into place against the commutator and you should be ready to go if that's all that's wrong. I hope that I made it clear enough to follow. This information might be available from the unit's website in a more understandable way with pictures. Spiris

In a good 98 action, the 7mm Mauser, loaded to it's potential, runs about 100fps less than the 280 with the same barrel length and bullet weight. IMO, it's not worth the hassle. The 7mm is one of those old designs that's very efficient, much like the 6.5x55. As z1r mentioned, the 7mm Mauser neck is bigger by some .005 and could cause problems unless you shorten the chamber a bit first, rethread the shank, and then rechamber to 280. Here's a couple links to each case dimension. http://ammoguide.com/?catid=16 http://ammoguide.com/?catid=104 Spiris

That's a pretty sweet old Mauser swamprat, nice find. Spiris

The Troybilt line of power equipment enjoyed a good following and were made heavy duty. They made their name on their heavy duty rear tine tillers. Unfortunately, they went bankrupt in 2001 and the total assets were bought by MTD including the Bolens name too. They seem to continue making good stuff as I see Lowes sells some of the line. The Bolens line is the lower priced line, but appears identical to the higher priced Troybilts, at least in the string trimmers. The older Troybilt walk behind trimmers are similar to the DR trimmers that you see advertised now. Might even be a spin-off of the Troybilt version. The walk behind trimmer is useful in rocky or uneven terrain or for knocking down high grasses, something that might tear-up a regular mower. Spiris

I have been wondering for a while about the actions and barrels used by companies who are now chambering the Win short magnums. With a case diameter of .555, how much thickness is left on the barrels? Are these actions and barrels the standard diameter, or are they a thicker design? I wonder if anybody here knows? The reason I ask is that I have a couple Remington barrels in 243 and at least one more Turk Mauser action in good shape and I have been considering assembling one of the 24" barrels and rechambering to 6mm/284 Win. I already have the reamer and headspace gauges and the Lee dies are on the way. The barrels are 1in9.125 twist. I know that most will say to leave it at 243, but does anyone think this is a bad idea? The case is .500 diameter and that's only .015 a side removed over standard. I'm also aware of the 6mm improved but as I said, I already have the 6MM/284 reamer. Another option is that I have a new A&B barrel blank in 1in10 twist and a M48 action in great shape that I could use for the conversion. Ya, I know the 6mm/284 can be a barrel burner, but with the newer slow burning powders and loading to 6MM Rem velocity levels, I'm sure it will last my lifetime. Let me know what you think. Spiris

The BHO administration is taking aim on those who oppose his "change". This should open people's eyes about the direction that he wants to go. Somebody's noticed the rise in gun and ammo sales. http://www.foxnews.com/politics/first100da...wing-extremism/ Spiris

Limpid Lizard, it sounds like you're set for a couple months at least. Those are fair finds and will cover a lot of calibers. Good luck in your endeavors. Spiris

swamp_thing, thanks for the suggestion, and I often wish that these small engines still used the points and condenser. Diagnosis was easier, and cost of repair was much less. They've all gone to pointless ignition with everything contained in the ignition module(coil) including the timing trigger, and diodes for voltage enhancement all sealed in epoxy. Vibration and heat sometimes takes its toll on the sealed components. It's possible that's what happened to AzRednek's trimmer. Spiris

AZ, there's possibly an ohm's test for the coil available in the factory service manual but I've seen coils with the right range of #'s and still be bad. If you haven't yet, disconnect the kill switch to eliminate it from the equation. It's usually a spade connector from the coil and make sure the connector doesn't ground out being disconnected. I usually buy parts local because of the outrageous shipping charges that some places get these days. Here's a place in WI that seems to have anything you want. Just follow the menus to get a price. Not knowing your model, I did a random price check on a couple Poulan/WeedEater hedge trimmer coils and it was $25-28 for them + shipping. If this works out, see if you need anything else for the unit such as the recoil pulley or other wear items to make the shipping worth while. Sometimes the same coil will be used on multiple models and types, but it takes time to research this. I only mention this if your able to pick up a junker for parts. It's hard to believe that there isn't any place in Phoenix and Tucson that doesn't wholesale parts. http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/home.asp Spiris

AZ, thanks for sharing your day with us. Your synopsis of activities going on sheds some light as to what's happening in your part of the world. I've never experienced a CAS live, so thanks again. Spiris

AZ, I was a service manager at a lawn & garden, snowmobile, motorcycle shop for nearly 10 years, in my younger days. There is generally no fixing the electronic ignition coil problems without replacing it. Keep your eyes open for a junker WeedEater like you have, that has spark, as they are usually all over the place with bad motors and such. It's good to have spare parts as Horsefly said. It is not difficult to replace the coil as most now are in a non-adjustable fixed position. If you can build a rifle, you can fix a weedeater. Pop the covers off and check for wires rubbing on the magneto to the kill switch. It's most likely the coil heats up and shorts out due to a crack in the coil housing somewhere. Good luck. Spiris

Sailormilan2, your posting seems to indicate that you are back enjoying life and approaching your new relationship in a manner that a mature person needs to take. Slow and easy does allow time for reflection, as the relationship develops. Your lady does appear to fit that bike well. We all wish you continued happiness. Spiris

The build up prior to WWII with Japan is a similar scenario. The U.S. imposed economic sanctions on Japan to force them out of China and we backed Japan into a corner. The choice was made to go to war with the U.S. because they felt they had no options, and at the time America was fairly weak militarily. China has many millions of soldiers and sailors more than willing to fight America, should they get the word. Their technology is also advancing at a break-neck speed. If the U.S. hurts China economically, it could be enough to create a possibility for China to consider war, in spite of the fact that we have a new dynamic Commander-in-Chief running the country. Spiris

This is probably the same info that you have. It's Accurate's own data that Lee Shooter has in it's data base. I'm pretty sure you've seen the www.hodgdon.com site too. Nothing available for the 175gr bullet and 4007 powder that I can find. Maybe an email to Hodgdon for info will do. IMO, the AA3100 looks good, but will it shoot good in your short barrel? I doubt that IMR4064 will give you top performance with that heavier bullet, but you never know until you try. It is a pretty versatile powder. It will be nearly impossible to get away from the muzzle blast with anything that gives you good velocities. But you knew that. Accurate reload info. 7x57mm MAUSER Gun DOUGLAS---------- Max Length 2.235 " Barrel Length 24 "------ Trim Length 2.215 " Primer CCI 200--------- OAL Max 3.065 " Case WW---------------- OAL Min 2.940 " Spiris

This powder looks good and it's a powder that's in your inventory. It's from the Lee Shooter program. Slow powder and low pressures, just what you need with that long bullet. HDY 175 SP ----------------------start-------Vel---------MAX-------Vel--------CUP------COL Accurate-3100--- 45.0gr--- 2149fps----50.0gr--- 2442fps---38,400---3.040---Compressed load Spiris

The key to it is not trying to do 200 cases at once in a 9" pan. lol Spiris

Maybe tumbling for a while after using gas or thinner. Spiris

VERY interesting. Spiris

I haven't done the annealing thing in a few years, but I've done the pan of water procedure. Line up the cases in the pan so it brings water up to about 3/4 to 1/2 inch of the shoulder, spaced about an inch apart. Then just heat each one with a propane torch until you get a color change and tip over into the water. It's not scientific but it works and protects the base of the brass. Of late, I just buy brass or acquire it from different sources. But I can attest to the pan of water annealing as a workable solution, especially if you have wildcat or just hard to find brass and want to make it last. Spiris

Here's a link to our troops's lighter moments. http://www.tom-phillips.info/images/funny.military.htm Spiris