dirtyjim

i got a scope and bi-pod on the way, thanks AZ.

az, pm sent on the leupold clone. i'll pass on the harris bi-pod. if i can find a original parker hale bi-pod at a decent price thats what i'll use if not i'll buy a versi-pod since its basically a cheap reproduction of a parker hale. one of the reasons i want to use a parker hale or a versi-pod is so that i can also swap out the bi-pod for a short forearm that can mount to the bi-pods mounting spud that stick straight out of the front of the stock. this weekend i'll try getting the rear section of the stock above the pistol grip shaped up a little better. still have to mount the scope too.

i'm trying to decide on the stock design for my finned barrel mosin. so far this is what i've come up with. i had a m44 stock that was busted at the wrist so i cut it off everything but the middle. the buttstock is made from two sections of 5/16" rod that go about 3" into the wrist of the stock. i welded a steel plate to the back of the rods to attach a buttplate. the steel plate is slotted to allow the height of the buttplate to be adjustable. right now the buttplate is a wood mock up. the cheekpiece still needs to be covered with vinyl or something & the bi-pod is borrowed from my ar-15, i'm going to install a parker hale type bi-pod thart will mount to a stud in the front of the stock. once i get everything the way i want i'll glass over the wood & repaint it.

try looking in pawnshops and on craigs list for a used mig. i weleded with flux core for a few years but there is no way i would go back to it now. i found my mig in a pawnshop for $100, brand new campbell housfield with a very nice cart. it was missing the regulator but i picked one up on closeout at tractor supply for $15. i also got my mig gas bottle at tractor supply, they are more expensive but if you even need a new bottle on sunday they are the only option where i live

both of my triggers were waiting for me when i got back in town today. thanks rivitir & azrednek. Az, i'll get your reimbursement for the postage in the mail tomorrow

nice start. that barrel shure looks long with that ati stock. is mosin spelled wrong on the inside of your stock? on mine its spelled moisin

looks good so far.

rivitir, a money order is in the mail

i have 4 rifles with them. two mannlicher schoenauer 1903/14's, a mauser and a springfield 1903 and only like them on my two mannlicher schoenauer 1903/14's. on my mannlichers you just raise you hand straight up after you pull the trigger and the bolt handle hits you palm just right. one of the problems with them might be people try to tuck them in to close to the stock. both the mauser and the springfield are closer than my manlichers and just don't feel right compared to my mannlichers

azredneck, pm sent for shipping rivitir, pm me your address & i'll get you a postal money order in the mail when i get back in town on friday

i'm still in for two mosin triggers. i have no problems with rivitir handling my money, try not to spend it on booze & hookers i also think using flat rate boxes to ship out the triggers would be easiest. just include another M.O. for $5 to cover the shipping.

i have two mausers and a springfield 1903 with set triggers along with two mauser project rifles with set triggers. if you do install a dst practice with it a lot before trying to hunt with it because once it set they are very touchy. just flicking the safety off is enough of a jar to set the rifle off. with a dst the bolt does not need to be cocked to practice, the trigger will still function regardless of whether the bolt is even in the rifle.

james, to shim the extractor i removed the extractor then cut a small piece off a feeler gauge & put it between the extractor and the bolthead when i re-assembled it. i didn't take any pictures but once the extractors off you sould be able to figure how big to cut the shim & where to put it. the shim is very small & easily dropped during installation so i would make several of them. i used a pair of scissors to cut the shims. i also replaced the .010 shim with a .008 shim since the .010 shim made the extractor a little to tight on the rim. i plan on doing one in 7mm mauser and one in 6.5x55. i haven't put scope mounts on it yet. i tried out two sets of vintage side mounts i had but both of them put the scope to low so i'll have to figure something else out.

i've shot both 404 jeffery and a 416 rigby and if the stock is right and the rifle weighs around 10-12 pounds they aren't that bad. i could shot a 404 all day, but i think the 416 rigby would make better use of your action. we use a standing rest instead of a bench for big bores. a bench will beat you up.

you got a good deal on that one, nice shape on the stock too. if you go big bore you might consider loosing the dogleg in the bolt handle, they have been known to bite during recoil

montana rifleman also makes them

you need a big bore. 404 jeffery & 10.75x68mm mauser are very good calibers that do not have a lot of recoil. i have a factory mas 36 sporting rifle in 10.75x68mm that is very light for a dg rifle but the recoil is very mild. you might also look into some of jeffe's acc rel calibers over on the accurate reloading forum. the 500AR will fit into a standard length receiver without much trouble, but you realy need a 550 express incase a whale just happens to wander into your yard.

here are a few pictures of the bannerman ejector/interrupter assembly. it isn't actually lengthened its just modified so it will stick out farther. bannerman is on the bottom. ejector/interupters bottom is a banerman. the other one was cracked at the screw hole & broke when i removed it. i may tack it back together, it still works but it comes loose rather quickly. i modified the broken one by removing the interupter and the tail. it works. 220 swift fits the magazine very close. i stil ned to add two shims that are about .030 to the rear sides of the inside of the magazine to take out the side to side slop. 220 swift ackley case shoulders just fit inside the magazine. thee is maybe .015" space betwen the shoulder and the inside of the magazine. 220 swift in the rifle. they are feeding and ejecting. i still ned to do a litle work on the feeding. sometimes the tip of the bullet will catch the edge of the chamber instead off feeding straight in. the bannerman has a slight radius where its hitting on this rifle. i'll see if i can get a dremel in there to put the radius like the bannerman has, if not i'll pull the barrel and do it. 220 swift AI cases will feed. i need to fireform a few more cases then load some up to tweak the feeding.

the only reference i have is my bannerman. they use the early one piece interrupter/ejector & they are slightly extended to work with a rimless case. i'll take some pictures of a bannrman ejector/interruptor next to a factory one this weekend. i'm also only going to use hex receivers on my builds since the later round receivers don't have the inner ring and two sections of the threads were broached out when the cut the bolt raceways. i made a trip the range this morning to test it out and its a shooter. right now the sights are way to low to use comforably. both targets were shot a 50 yards from a standing rest. on the first target i put 3 rounds into a 1" group, i wasn't trying for accuracy i was just seeing if it had potential & i couln't see the front sight bead very good. i swaped the front sight out with a brass beaded one from my range bag and fired 3 more times. it came out right at 5/8". its a keeper so now i need to order a real stock, a timney trigger and some sights

this one started out as a slightly sportered remington m91 that thought it was a shotgun intead of a rifle. after giving up on making it shoot it sat in the corner for about a year untill i have the wild idea of putting a remington 722 barrel on it that was stitting in another corner of the room. the remington barrel was originally chambered in .222. i threaded & chambered the barrel on a grizzly mini lathe that i picked up for next to nothing. i think they call them a mini lathe because you can only take a mini cut with them. it was the first thing i've threaded in about 10 years & luckily it came out right. i'm going to take it to the range tommorrow and see if it shoots. the sights that are on it now are from my junk boxes and will be replaced with something a little nicer in the future. i still have to do something with the bolt handle & do some magazine & feeding mods. my bannerman will feed a 220 swift round so i'm going to copy the ejector & interuptor on it. i'll also have to make a spacer for the inside of the magazine. eventually i'm going to put a sidemout with a weaver K6 on it.

both the UK59 machine gun barrel & the maxin barrel will remain in 7.62x54r so there will be no feeding problems there. the others i will have to do some mods to the magazine & ejector assembly for them to work as anything other than a single shot. i'm going to copy the way my bannermans ejector & interuptor way modified for the other calibers. i'll post pics of them when i get started on it.

they need to remember what one smart person can build another equally smart person can reverse engineer and the person doing the reverse engineering isn't always on the right side of the law. a few years back SGN ran a couple of pages from a book that i can't remember the name of that was set a few years into the future where all firearms had the high tech chips that would only fire for the owners. some hackers had figured out how to block the signal so the new high tech guns wouldn't work. a group of people who had one of the signal blocking devices & didn't turn in their pistols for the new high tech stuff does a hit on someone at a convention. one of the guys walks up behind who ever the hit was on & caps him in the back of the head. all the cops & security pull their new high tech pistols out only to find out their weapons will not fire but the other guys pistols will.

i actually got to do a little work on this one today. i turned that big lump thing off the barrel. still have a little more work on the barrel before i'm going to call it finished. i'll try to get a couple pictures up tomorrow

i don't think it would be absolutely necessary to extend the bushing to do away with the extractor cut but i do think extending the bushing might make the conversion work just a little bit better. from the extractor groove forward would be inside the chamber so casehead support shouldn't be an issue. the bushing would be extended by about .055 you cant really shorten the tip of the extractor enough to make a difference, probably .010 at the most

i'm in for two triggers.