dirtyjim

i haven't done anything else with it yet. between working out of town 4 days a week, working on my truck & trying to get a few of my other projects finished i've kinda neglected this one. i have a couple more mosin projects on the drawing boards too. i'm converting couple mosin boltheads for .473 dia. rimless cartridges for 22-250 & 220 swift projects. i have a brand new tikka bull barrel for the 22-250 project & a 222 barrel from a remington 721 that i'm going to rethread for the mosin then rechamber it to 220 swift. this is the first one i did. i machined a bushing for the bolt face to reduce it down for a rimless cartridge & soldered it in place. then i shimmed the extractor back .010" to make up for the difference in rim thickness, then filed the back of the extractor flush with the back of the bolt head. i also had to slightly deepen the extractor slot. i tested it out by putting it on my bannerman 30-06 conversion & cycling a few rounds. it worked just fine. bolt head before soldering the bushing in. the other bolthead is from my bannerman conversion, i used it for reference. finshed bolthead beside a standard mosin bolthead for comparison. it will hold the case against the bolthead in any position. i think i'm going to redesign the bushing. if i extended the bushing slightly past the extractor i could eliminate the extractor cut on the barrel. i would have to shorten the barrel shank by the same amount that i extend the bushing. if i made the o.d. of the bushing the same size as the o.d. of the bolt but put a step on it so it would slide into the bolt face then tig weld it to the bolt. i don't think it would transfer enough heat from the rim to the bolt head to cause any problems since all of the welding would be done on the lip of the bolt face. i could also make a bushing to fit 7.62x39 & .223 size caseheads. i was thinking about trying to adapt an ejector similar to whats used in a 88 commision rifle for the 7.72x39 & .223 size case heads.

i'll have to order a couple of them as soon as they are available. the trigger is based on timneys rem 700 trigger. here is a pic of one of the prototypes. and here are a few pics of the finished product. it might cost more than the rifle its going on but every timney i've had was well worth what i paid for it. it kinda reminds me a paragraph in clyde bakers book modern gunmithing about putting a lyman 36 on a mosin. while it may seem foolish to pay $10 for a sight for a $3.34 rifle it isn't as foolish as it sounds. any lyman sight is worth its price on any rifle, reguardless of race, color, or previous condition of servatude- and that's that. i feel the same way about timney triggers

that turned out real nice. did it start out as one of the sarco specials?

i would see if it shoots before looking for a replacement barrel. io'd try both light ball & heavy ball from several different countries as well as some wolf, prvi & s&b commercial ammo. both of my m91's shoot light ball very good

the majority of them are still in 7.62x54r only a very small quantity of them were converted to 30-06. if it was converted to 30-06 it will be very easy to spot without having to do a chamber cast. the barrel had to set back about 3/4" for a 30-06 reamer to clean up a 7.62x54r chamber. there will be a large gap in the stock at the barrel shank. setting the barrel back that far put the end of the chamber out past the barrel shank making them unsafe. quite a few people still shoot them with low power cast bullet loads. the bolt face will also have a bushing & the magazine will be flattened out to fit the 30-06 case. i have one of the bannerman conversions. i might make some reduced capacity cases for cast bullets & put a few rounds down it eventually. barrel shank flattened magazine bushed bolt head next to original bolt head for comparison

1891 argie safeties are very easy to modify into a low scope safety. the way i did the last one was to take a small round diamond bur in a demmel tool & grind another stop for the dentent. takes about 5 minutes, will clear a scope just fine & looks factory.

i did the bolt handle. its not very hard but on the next one i'm going to move the bolt handle a little farther back. on this one i have a space of .560 between the bolt handle root & the lug the original bolt handle was on. that is just about as far back as you can go & still keep the original safety functional. on the next one i build im going to space it back enough for a two piece scope mount & use a timney side safety trigger if they ever get them to the market. i have a set of sako mounts & rings that i may try to use on one of them. i didn't take any pics while i was building it but on the next one i'll show step by step what all is involved. basically what i did was i clamped two pieces of flatbar to the sides of the lug the bolt handle is on because the new bolt handle will have to be in the same position to slide through the back part of the receiver. i then drilled hole between the two pieces of flatbar as far back as i could without going into the cam area. the hole locates the root for the new bolt handle. i then forged a 3/8" grade 8 bolt into the shape i wanted & welded it to the bolt body & cut out the area in the side of the receiver to clear it. i used a piece of 1/8 wall pipe to make the rear bridge, 1 small piece if 1/8"x 1" flatbar could also be shaped for a rear bridge & welded on. the rear bridge ends up being about 1/8" higher than the receiver ring. its still rough in this picture & i'm not happy with the bolt handle so i'm going to cut it off and build a new one. on the new bolt handle i'm going to use a section of 1/2" keystock for a root similar to the way a mauser bolt handle starts out. the bolt handle is also slightly swept back & will need to be straight up & down to keep it out of your trigger finger if you move it back any farther.

they are .311 bore

heath, they come out to right at 20" after cutting & threading the shank. there is plenty of meat to rethread to lr mauser. here is a pic of the one that i have on a mauser. i still need to ream the chamber on it. the barrel at the shank is 1.175 dia. & is about 2 3/4" long before the finned area. the muzzel is .940 dia & the finns start out at 1.060 & end up at .825 at the muzzel. i'm going to build a similar stock for the mosin.

frank, i got the finned barrel from gunbroker a while back but sarco has them for about $30. they are new, if you cant find it on their website look in some of their shotgun news adds from about 6 months ago to get the part number. i also have a mauser project rifle with the same barrel on it.

i picked up a barrel from a czech UK59 machine gun on gunbroker that had been threaded for a mosin. i put it on a modified hungarian m44 receiver i had sitting around. it headspaced just right & the extractor cut lined up perfectly. this thing is heavy, its .950 at the muzzel & 1.210 right before the boss where i think the carry handle for the machine gun was. its 1.170 behind the boss so i think i'll have it turned in a straight taper from that to the muzzel later or i might try drilling & tapping the boss to use like a barrel block to bed the rifle & free float the action & the rest of the barrel.the barrel is 24" long. i need to pick me up a stock to test it out on now. i'm sending these two barrels to be threaded for a mosin at the end of the week. one is a finned barrel in 7mm from a madsen light machine gun & the other is from a russian maxim. they are going on hex receivers & should make a couple intersting mosins when finished.

i remember the bathroom from the machine shop i worked in while i was in my early 20's, happy times. we had a few tricks for the new guys. after stinking up the tiny one stall bathroom you find the nearest newguy & tell him there is a mouse jumping up & down in the bathroom trash can. they always run in to investigate the mouse, after a couple of minutes most of them figure out there is no mouse only an awful stench. the bathroom door had a two inch gap under it that was right inline with your feet. a can of wd-40, a cigarette & 2" gap = flamming feet.

it could be done & has but i think if i was going to go through all the trouble i would select a different caliber than 30-30 but if thats what your set on& have the equipment i say go for it. you can solder a bushing to the bolt face like the banner man 30-06 mosins to reduce it down to fit the 30-30 casehead, you'll also have to deepen the ejector slot & possibly deepen the extractor slot. i've considered trying to adapt a sako type extractor or an ar-15 extractor to the mosin bolt head. the ejector may have to be built up a little to catch the case & eject it. you should be able to modify the magazine by adding shims to it to reshape the inside of the magwell to fit the 30-30 case.

learning to grind & sharpen you own tooling will defintly come in handy in the future. i worked in a machine shop that specialized in plastics & we had to hand grind 90% of our tooling.

congrats on the lathe. i've been looking for a while too but everything i find is to big, to small, wore out, over priced or i'm short on money at the time. about 15 years ago i used some of the threading tools with replaceable inserts & they worked great but they were new at that time & there were a few times we had to change out tooling back to the traditional hand ground bits in the middle of a job because the suppliers were out of the threading bits. we mostly used them on a cnc just incase we snapped an insert we wouldn't have to spend but a couple minutes getting it back going again

i have both a Freischutz classic & a oberndorf classic from great american. the oberndorf is a little bit more trimmer than the freischutz. the main differences are in the size of the side pannels & the schanbel. the oberndorf is on a ocatgon barreld 6.5x55 project with dst's that will get a shotgun triggerguard. the freischutz is on a yugo'ed mod98. you can see them both side by side in this picture

i've heard that if you peen it with a small hammer while its on the barrel it will expand it enough to slide it farther down. that wouldn't work it it was already to small to fit over the barrel. then file & sand any marks out

nice find. i have one of those leupold pioneer 4x scopes & a set of adjusto-mounts for a fn waiting on the right project. if you're going to use that thing on texas rabbits i would put three 220 grainers behind some 180's just incase you wound one in the tall grass & it charges you. have you seen the teeth one one of those?

nice work don. stuart makes a very nice safety, when you can get them. i'm considering buying one for my mini mauser project. i don't know if you would be interersted but i just happen to have a new lilja octagon barrel blank with a .416 bore that i would make you a good deal on if you don't have a barrel yet. it's advertised on the other site

good to see your back at it & thats going to be one nice looking rifle when finished.

kenny, its just a small ring 98 guild rifle not a type m. 9x57, ribbed barrel, dst & claw mounts. i'm going to try making a set of rings for it one day. it has a piece of wood missing on the right side of the stock at the front ring. right side left side closer view of action

i made one very similar a year or two ago. after it was built & test fitted it looked to long to me so i scraped the idea. i still have it around here some where if someone wants to finish it. it needs the little button on the end finish shaped & checkered

actually some of them do have a small amount of windage & elevation adjustment. they way mine is built it has two small dovetails that can be used to adjust the sight. you can see them from the back of the sight.

looks good don. it's similar to the one i did. have you thought about putting a threaded bushing in the action screw hole & welding up the top. for some reason i've always thought an extened tang makes the hole for the rear action screw stand out

i've done a couple bolts with a mig & one with a flux core. it was all i had at the time. i still don't have a tig so now i'll usually tack the handle where i want it then send it out to be tig welded. the main problem i ran into was to get a good weld you had to grid part of the root & the end of the bolt handle pencil thin where they met then build up the weld with multiple passes allowing it to cool between them so it didn't get to hot. if you used flux core you would also have a ton of spatter to clean up between passes. i picked up a small stick welder at the pawn shop for $40 yesterday, i'll test it out this weekend. i still need to get a tig but i haven't found one at the right price yet