dirtyjim

timney's going to build a mosin trigger. timney trigger

i think alot of it is getting over the fear that you will mess up or ruin your gun. then alot of people just don't haver the time or equipment to do it right. right now i don't have a lathe or a mill so i have to farm out anything requiring those. i have about 10 years experience on mills & lathes but i haven't been able to find used machines localy that i want to buy or had the money for when they come up. also certain times of the year i have more money than time & will have other people do things that i would normaly do myself.

good work. we used to take a piece of stiff cardboard about 12x12 & cut a small hole in the middle the same size as what we were turning then slide it & tape it to the steady rest. that way any chips would hit the cardboard & be deflected back towards the toolpost instead of going into the rollers

i picked up a set of those $35 ebay square bridge bases a while back. they are the blank bases from claw mounts.com. the rear base will need to be milled to the same height as the front base then cut for talley rings. clawmounts.com sells them for around $80.

thats not my rifle, i found that picture when looking for ideas to build a modern style mosin nagant. mine is still a pile of parts. all i have done is moved the bolt handle to the rear & closed the gap in the rear bridge. i have a finned madsen lmg barrel in 7mm thats going to be threaded & chambered in 7mmx54r for it. i have a mauser project with the same type of barrel, its still very rough right now but once i finish shapping the stock it should start to look alot less bubbafied.

neat idea & its hard to tell how it will come out till its done. i'm sure they laughed at this rifle too, but i think its neat

i think there is another one on gb thats a little cleaner for about $25 less. 45/70 siamese barreled action

nice pair of rifles. it looks like the scope on the top rifle should be on the bottom rifle & vice versa

its coming together nicely. everything looks much better now, a little trim here & there makes all the difference

don, as soon as i put the front sight on it will be finished. the reworked military front sight just didn't look right & ended up being to low for the rear sight so i ordered a necg banded sight for it, but i didn't have it with me when i had the gun blued. the gun has been rust blued & the stock has about 15 coats of tung oil on it. i also forgot the action screws when i had it blued too. basically it just has a few odds & ends to be done. i'll get that 303 brass in the mail this weekend

canjar is no longer in business & their triggers bring good money on the auction sites. a lot of the older benchrest shooters seem to like them.

if you can find that article i'd appreciate it. i've been collecting pictures of a couple of 303's to use for reference. its still in the parts collecting stage right now & i'll probably just work up a stock with bondo then have it duplicated so i know it will work. i've also been tring to find info on siamese mausers that have been rebarreled to 303 & from what i've read they seem to feed better with a p14 303 follower & stiffer replacement mag spring.

if i was just going to build a 303 sporter a yugo would work out fine but this one will be very close in looks to a original rigby 303 & i'd like to use a full length receiver. i have both a dwm & a oberndorf gew98 that are candidates for this build the dwm has the worst bore of the two so it will more than likely go to this project & the oberndorf will go to a model c type of project with the original stepped barrel

that was the way i intended to do it at first. then i just happened to see a semi-inlet that was just about perfect for the look i wanted & wondered if anyone had ever tried putting a normal 98 in a siamese stock. the only things that realy concerns me is the position of the bottom metal relative to the action & the profile of the action where it mates to the stock. i have a little bit of leway here, i can go forward or backwards at least a 1/16" maybe just a little more with the bottom metal to keep it lined up with the action. the siamese bottom metal will mate up to a 98 action after removing the front pilliar, then its just a matter or reworking the holes to line up & making a new front pilliar. if the outside dimensions of the siamese receiver are the same as a 98k i would just order the stock & have at it but i dont have a siamese to campare it do & don't want to drop alot of money on a stock & then it not work out

here's what i'm planning on doing. i collecting parts for a rigby style 303 mauser using modified siamese bottom metal on a dwm gew98 action. i know the action screw spacing is differnent & the bottom metal will be reworked to match up with the spacing of the action. the front screw hole needs to be moves about 1/8" forward & the rear screw hole needs to be moved about 3/16" rearward. but will the gew98 action fit into a stock thats semi-inleted for a siamese without showing any gaps. i planning on using a gary goudy classic stock from gag

i had considerd necking down 7.62x54r brass to 6.5mm. by swaging a rim to 6.5x55 brass it should eliminate all of the custom dies & reamers. it will headspace on the shoulder instead of the rim. i should beable to use a standard 6.5x55 reamer & headpace guages. to load for it i should be able to use a 7.62x54 shell holder with 6.5x55 dies. here is a link on how to swage rims onto a normal case.

i have two mosin sporters i'm collecting parts for that will need something done with the triggers. one will be a pre-war style sporter with a butterknife bolt handle chambered in the original 7.62x54. its trigger will be simple, i'll just reshape the original trigger to be the kickoff for a double set trigger. the other will be a modern style tactical rifle with a 6.5x55 barrel, i'm going to swage a rim onto 6.5x55 brass to keep from having to do any bolt, extractor & ejector mods. i'm trying to locate one of the valmet triggers for it, unless timney decides to build one

on timneys website they are taking a survey asking what triggers they should build next. of course i had to suggest they build one for a mosin timney trigger survey i'm posting this link on some other furums too

i paid $100 for mine, but i've seen some very nice ones go for between $150-200 on gb. i read the the 16ga. versions still have the front two locking lugs

i'm sure if you ask him what hs guages he's using he'll tell you. he also runs a gunsmithing business. i've had good dealings with him. i was looking at one of his 9.3x62 & a 7x64 but i like my barrels to be around 24" long

i've seen those barrels too. he has some calibers that i would like to build on & the prices are good. but all of them are 3 or 4" shorter than i want

don if you need a working bolthead to campare to the ones your making i could send the one off my geha when i send you that sight

i've done a little more to the rear sight. i reshaped the front of the sight base by adding a small section from a piece of pipe. i still need to fill in a few pits & cut the ears down a little. i added the rear part from a krag 1898 sight to a mauser sight leaf to make it windage adjustable & they have a neat little fold up peep on the back of the sight. its soldered on right now, i'll have it tig welded when i have another bolt done. the krag sight was already cut in half when i got it & i just sold a complete 1898 krag sight for $75 so i wouldn't advise cutting up a good one. i need to rework another ramp & spring because the first one i did doesn't work right but i can see what needs to be changed on the next one. i'm still working on the front sight but i don't think its going to work out so i'll probably use a banded front sight instead.

a mid scnable like on z1r's type s also helps with the transition from the action area. i've always thought it looked better that way. the bottom guns looks to be a type m, nice guns z1r

there's only a couple of things i can see that could make it look a little better. sweep the pistol grip back a little further & add a slight radius to the bottom of the stock right infront of the magwell tapering it about midway down the barrel. that way the stock will have more flowing lines from the action area to the end of the stock instead of the straight taper it has now.