dirtyjim

if bold or timney would start cranking these out they would make a killing i've been searching for information on the finnish made target triggers & so far all i've been able to find is this pic, they were made by valmet.

mohctep, check out this finnish model 28-76 target rifle. this should give you some ideas. look on page 3 for pics of a model 28-66 target rifle.

they are very hard to find outside of finland. it took me at least 6 months to find out it was valmet that made them & i still haven't found one for sale or any idea of where to get one yet. some of the romainian 91/30's also have a different trigger & sear that adjustable, i've had no luck locating one of those either. for the safety i'm trying to find a picture of one a finn m27 that was modified to take a mauser safety so i can see how it was done. i'm also studying the greek ms 1903/14 safety to see if it can be adapted to a mosin because their bolts are very similar

do a search on the finnish TKIV 85 sniper rifle & the finnish model 28-66 target rifle, there are also russian biathlon versions & army match versions. valmet made a adjustable trigger for the mosin nagant, i'm tring to locate one for my heavy barrel mosin project.

i would have jumped on that deal too. i check gb almost daily because stuff like goes quick. don doesn't get them all, i stole this one out from under him . i almost felt bad about it.

i'm not sure how well it shot but that kleinguenther looked mint in the pictures, the seller had a lot of guns listed with $50 starting bid & no reserve and that one just happened to slip through the cracks. one of the pawnshops near me has one for sale for around $1200

nope , funny thing about the auction was the guy ran the auction a few times with a forged bolt included before listing it the way i got it. the barrel, receiver & bolt went up to about $180 & didn't meet the reserve a couple of times. next time he lested it without the bolt starting at $55 with no reserve & i was the only one who bid on it. i also saw a guy get a kliengunther for $50 once, i bet he's still smiling about that deal

like alot of other people i should kick myself for not stocking up on m96 barrels when they were availible new for about $80 & k kales when they were $50. i got lucky on gb a few months back & picked up a k kale action with a m96 barrel for $55. one of those times i put in a bid thinking there no way i'll get it for that price. the barrel isn't new but its in very good shape. i still haven't decided if i'm going to put it in a military stock or a sporter stock. i have to many other projects infont of it right now

i've only pulled one & it came off relativly easy. i'm going to rebarrel it with a .308 bore barrel. sarco has p-h target barrels that are pitted at the chamber end for $40 so i'm going to order one of those & see if i cam make it work by facing off some of the end of it then rethreading it. if you have a spare sporter barrel thats already threaded for a lr mauser you may be able to turn the original treads off , set the shoulder back then rethread it for the mosin. od of the threads on my mosin barrel are .980 & most lr mauser barrels should clean up very close to that.

i think i remember seeing somewhere that the head for a rem 700 on a mauser handle will work on a round receiver mosin. i used my homebuilt action wrench on mine & the barrel wasn't as tight as i tought it would be.

here is a drawing that gives the diminsions for the cutout & the holes for the u-bolts. i started the recoil lug cutout about 3" from the end of the angle iron & the u-bolts used will determin the exact width for the holes as they vary a bit from one brand to the next but these mesurments should be neough to get you going. the u-bolts will also be to long to tighten down without some type of shim behind them thats about 1/2" thick, at first i just used a couple of 1/2 nuts as washers but now i have a peice of 2x2x1/2" plate welded to the underside of the wrench

strait shooter , feel free to copy it. if you want i could post a picture or a drawing with the dimensions for the recoil lug notch & the u-bolt holes

i built mine from a piece of 2 1/2 x 1/4" angle iron about 2 feet long, the u-bolt from a 1 1/2" muffler clamp & a small peice of 1/8"x1" strap. i used a 4 1/.2" angle grinder to make the cutout for the recoil lug then cleaned it up with a file. i forged the 1/8x1" flatbar around a socket i had that was the same size as a lr receiver then welded it to the u-bolt. it worked well for about 4 times then i broke the u-bolt on a realy tough barrel. when the ubolt broke it also slightly bent the action wrench where the receiver sits, the receiver wasn't damage. i filed it back flat then added a second u-bolt , the second ubolt is from a 3" muffler clamp so i could have then close together & still have room to get the nuts on the u-bolts. i also welded a peice of 2x2x1/2" plate to the bottom of the wrench to make the area under the receiver more rigid. if you were to make the cutout for the recoil lug on the other side of the angle iron it would be much stiffer but you have to put the u-bolt farther back on the receiver ring. i don't have any pictures of it after i added the second u-bolt

if you don't have a stel supply house nearby you can use 3/4" grade 5 bolts to make your bolt bodies. i used 3/4" grade 5 bolts from the local hardware store for the last couple of bolts i made. usually the grade 5 bolts cut, finish, weld & blue pretty good. or at least the ones i've been buying do.

i had chris at aquila firearms time it for me, he is in deer park, texas, close to me. he will thread & time for $100 or time a pre-treaded barrel for about $45. in the pic its in a mauser banner receiver but i found a curved metal buttplate with the mauser banner on it & its way to big for that stock so i pulled the receiver & i'm replacing it with a dwm gew98 receiver. i'm going to use the mauser banner receiver & buttplate with a different stock i have thats more of a straight early big bore type stock. it too will get a barrel from wind rivers custom shop, a 10.75x68mm octagon to halfround with a intergal rib. it may be worth the extra money to buy it straight from wind river because you can get it in the exact lenght you want, threaded & short chambered for about $100 more than the blank costs a midway. they will install it too but i have no idea what they charge to do it. rem721 that handle goes to a different rifle, it thought it looked better with a bolt in it for the picture. i have a cz bolt & a talley handle for it, i just haven't welded it up yet

i'm building a octagon barreled mauser sporter right now in 6.5x55. the barrel came from wind river's custom shop. i paid $315 shipped, they have gone up a little in price but i still think its under $350 threaded & short chambered & takes about 2 months. when i got it midway & brownells only had octagon blanks for black powder cartrides.

i picked up a yugo captured mod98 in poor shape from a gb auction. at least the bore was good. i had a share freischutz classic stock from great americans bargain bin & thought i'd drop in it along with one of my sculptured triggerguards for a quickie sporter build. when i started inletting it to the stock the rear sight looked to big so i shortened it to only read 600 yards & i've reashaped the front sight to resemble a banded front sight. i still have to rework the spring for the rear sight so it will work correctly. how i got it inletted into the stock shortened rear sight, before the step on the barel was turned back just about finished, still need to mount the front sight, fix a few screwups & wetsand the stock sculptured triggerguard i have to fix a small gap where i goofed fitting the buttplate. i'll fill it with sawdust & epoxy

good looking rifle don. i've always like the classic look better than the new style sporters

on of the problems fitting home-made levers to military floorplates has always been the radius at the very back of the floorplate makes it difficult to make the lever lie flat against the floorplate .when the latch is fitted the lever will try to follow the radius & lift the front of the lever off the floorplate. my latest solution was to silver solder a washer over the hole then file the front half of the washer down level with the floorplate. i'm still shaping the lever, it was made from 1/2"x1/2" cold roled steel. washer soldered on & lever rough shaped washer filed down flat side view of the washer & lever fitted to the floorplate, latch hasnt been fitted yet, i still need to do a little work to the underside of the lever before i fit the latch.

i have bought 4 stocks from their bargain section & i think i got a great deal on all of them. the inletting was very close on all of them & their faults were well described, ussualy just small drying checks. i check their bargain section about once a week

the only thing i can think of that might speed it up is using a tonge & groove joint to attatch the latch to the lever pivot instead of cutting four flats on the pivot you would only have to cut 2 flats then cut a slot down the middle of the latch for it to mate into.

nice work don. heres one i'm working on. the back is tapered down to about 3/8 & the sides are rounded off to leave about a 1/32 flat that i brought all the way down to the bottom instead of blending it. i still need to do a little more filing on the front of the triggerbow to make it less rounded at the bottom. then figure out what i want to do with the latch. i left the wierd little stamp near the front of the floorplate, but removed the numbers.

an idea i've had for a bolt stop is cut about 3/8 off the end of a colt 1911 hammer then tig or solder it to the back of the bolt stop. to remove the bolt you would press in on the back of the bolt stop instead of pulling out on the front of it.

looks good donmarkey. i need to find me a good floorplate to hinge, my practice one is a little too pitted to put on something nice. i built up the back of the floorplate behind the hole so it was flat & it made my homemade lever alot tighter.

you could start the taper at the barrel step instead of trying to taper the whole barrel. it would still get rid of the step & not make the barrel pencil thin at the end