Bob58

... I was watching a movie and noticed the rifle the "hero" was sporting looked like a Mauser. It has a spoon handle on the bolt and a double set/hair trigger...

 

Like Melvin Purvis in Public Enemies?

Vlad, I can't remember if you're in KY or NC?

Charlotte, NC

No can do. How can you not want something that looks as fun as this? You even have options - Lyman receiver sight or scope. This one happens to be the commercial cousin - a Remington Model 30S in 257 Roberts.

Unless I'm mistaken this is Brian's VZ - a Brno with 1937 on the ring.

I make my own pattern right on the stock prior to filling it in with checkering. I stay simple using only one master angle to get me started and that master angle defining the initial cut to which all other cuts will be parallel. The rest of the pattern is a form (think of a recepticle or vessel) to be filled in by successive cuts parallel to the master angle. Notice in the two attached pictures the green angle that identifies the master angle; the red lines that identify the first cuts, and the rest of the pattern (not colored) that is the form or vessel to be filled in with cuts following the master angle.

This approach is very forgiving and I would recommend you start with simple. Be aware that master angle is such that the diamonds will be 3-3.5 times longer than they are wide. The only "pattern" I use is a "checkering gauge" made by the Dem-Bart checkering Tool Co. I use it to define the master angle - that's all. It's a simple flexible, plastic gauge with the appropriate master angles defined. http://www.dembartco.com/products1.htm

I like it, Bob. Your checkering shows real progress -- very professional. Are you ready to take on work?

 

Clemson

Thanks, but I need more confidence born from consistency before I start messin' with others

stocks.

that turned out real nice. did it start out as one of the sarco specials?

It came from Sarco - a couple years ago (recent to me!). Sat in a corner for awhile.

I recently picked up for cheap, a plain, uncheckered, factory stocked, 96-based Stiga that I thought I could improve. I removed the schnabel, added a tip, grip cap and worked on my checkering. I then stained it (unfortunately had to, the wood was quite substandard walnut) and finished it with Tru-Oil. I added the Weaver K-1 - all I need to do now is add a barrel-mounted sling. (ignore the dates in the picture, they're a year off). I think I now have a presentable shooter.

Maybe you should stay away from firearms for a while. Hope you feel better soon.

My father and great aunt collaborated a few years ago to compile my family's genealoy and it is sitting open on the desk in front of me right now.

 

Apparently, my ancestry dates back to Nottingham, England in the 1500's. Later on, I had two ancestors that fought for the Confederacy. After the war, it looks like they all settled in or around Panola County, Texas. My great, great grandfather is buried 35 miles from my chair and I have visited his grave. Its pretty cool to know where you're from.

 

Best of luck with your genealogical search. I hope you're able to turn up some good stuff.

 

-Jason

Jason -

Did any of your relatives know Jim Reeves very well? I periodically pass by his gravesite and memorial.

Have you stripped it to bare wood, or laying it on top of an existing finish?

I like it. It actually is easier to see current activity on the board.

I agree, but I guess I'm an idiot because I can't figure out how to reply w/o replying with a previous quote embedded. - Now I see the very bottom.

"Pork, the other red meat"

I was hoping I'd get a positive answer since the project is complete! It looked good but had second thoughts about its strength having not ever heard of it being used.

I used it simply because I had some and it was a "low priority" bedding project. I have quite a bit of it having used it for other applications. It is definitely harder than walnut.

I used Minwax paste wax and it popped right out. I worked in two stages: did the front ring and then the barrel forward of the front ring. I didn't get real aggressive.

Has anybody ever used PC-7 epoxy for bedding material? Do you think it might work?

http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc7.php

Other than the headspace issue, are there other fit issues? How about the fit of the working surfaces such as lug raceways, or much more importantly at the bearing surfaces behind the lugs as the bolt is closed (more important)? It seems the original bolt would have worn a working fit through use. It seems a replacement bolt would not result in as smooth an action (all else constant). I wish I had the right technical terminology to more eloquently ask that question.

I like it. Very nice. Probably more useful if you could make it cordless.

Doble Troble -

If you can wait a few days I might have an interesting option for you. I will likely have either a 270 Win barrel, or 8x57 barrel (both are 23.5 inches) which has come off a Husqvarna 1640. Both have vg-excellent bores and are in a sporter contour. I understand from knowledgeable gunsmiths that those barrels have the right diameter with threads that fit Turks.

If I buy the 1640/8x57 I was considering re-barreling it to 270 Win using a barrel in the corner (you get the 8x57 take-off, not yet seen but described as very good)). However, I might pass on the 1640 and purchase an FN action for a different project (in which case you have a 270 Win option). Let me know if you're interested - for a 13 year old the price could be very reasonable.

That 270 Win can be soft-loaded to a recoil similar to 6.5x55, or you might have the versatile 8x57 that can be loaded from 30-30ish to 308 Win-like.

I was actually gonna give Clemson a call to do the work related to this project regardless of the option chosen. We can make it a "Carloinas project" Aren't you in NE Carolina?

Makes me think of Lot's wife and pillars of salt.

Wow! that barrel looks like a stovepipe. Lookin' good. Keep us updated.

 

Rojelio

Ken,

I hope you never drop it on your toe - it appears to have a pretty high sectional density.

I'd like to re-barrel a mauser bolt action with a nontraditional bolt action caliber some day. For no justiifiable reason I'd like to have a bolt action in 35 Rem. I have a used 35 Whelen barrel in the corner so I'll probably just re-barrel and soft load with SR4759. I also have a spare Remington Model 30 action. They originally came in 35 Rem in the 20's. Imagine that, a 35 Rem in such a stout action. I'm thinking a small ring would be preferable and less wasteful.

Has anyone ever seen one of these? I found one in a pawn shop and I can't tell if it's an FN, Interarms, or something else.

 

There's one on Gunbroker and the guy claims it's an FN action, This one doesn't feel as smooth as an FN. More like an Interarms.This one is a 270 win. It has a trigger safety, and in the bow release on the triggerguard. Decent classic stock with darker wood fore end tip and shadow line cheekpiece. 2-10 Simmons scope. $350 out the door.

 

I'm hoping someone out there has some info on these.

 

Thanks, Rojelio

There's a poster on Mauser Central that posts under "eagleye" who has owned an H&R/FN mauser. You might consider PM'ing him for add'l info.

Bob, you play the french horn when not doing gun work or your day job?

 

This is indeed a diverse group. BO would be proud, if we just paid more taxes.

Actually, my 15-year old son does. He's rather "accomplished" for his age. Currently he uses a medium-quality school horn and plays in a few different bands/ensembles/orchestras. We wanted to make sure he had a "lifetime horn and wanted to help some other folks.

Me, I can't even read music but I'll bet we do have some real musicians on this forum. Like you, I have no interest in paying more taxes.

You got a good deal on that A/C unit. When I replaced mine 3 years ago, that was the price for mine................with my brother's dealer's discount. I am afraid to see what it would have been without the discount.

Not sure what units y'all are repairing or replacing but last week I replaced our two original 3 ton, R-22 "builder-grades" that died together right on cue after 10 years. Both evaporator coils leaked excessively over the winter (3lbs and 5 lbs.) after having been topped off late in the summer last season. I replaced these two "split systems" ( interior evaporators and exterior condensers and compressors; everything but ducts and furnace) with SEER 13, R410A systems for right at $13k. Back in the day a/c's lasted 20 years.

I also purchased a professional-quality french horn for $2,200, the asking price (regular $3,500+) from a young "struggling" musician/student. I'd say I've done more than my bit for the economy... and will likely lose my job in the next few months.

Not sure what I'm thinking but it seemed like the right thing to do under the circumstances.

Smells like... Victory.

http://www.time.com/time/photoessays/2006/ammunition_plant/

No, just a functional, very lightly used, 60-70's era medium-duty lathe I picked up for near-free. I don't have a lathe right now and thought this would be a good way to get started turning. I've torn it down and re-assembled it but now need to re-wire a donor motor and make a stand for it.

I can't seem to pass up an opportunity to make something from nothing, or restore once-productive items to their earlier use, or even better, some alternative use. I believe all who frequent this forum have a similar affliction.

The lathe would have been even more special if it were of an earlier vintage. I have an Atlas belt/disc sander from the 40's that I'm particularly fond of - I've ground numerous recoil pads and reshaped a similar number of stocks on that machine.

I'm looking for some medium-duty wood turning tools if anybody has any laying around unused (cheap). Any condition will do. My plan is to learn by experience - grinding the tools periodically to experiment with various tip shapes, angles, curves, etc. and make my own handles.