Bob58

I agree with z1r - really like that first stock. What type is it?

Saw same. I'm right there with you.

At the risk of intruding on a private conversation - we all like to talk about our favorite vehicles. Attached is a picture of my commuter. Granted it's a few years old, the vehicle is 13 years old and the picture is 5 years old but it still looks the same (except no raised white letters anymore). I try to keep it lookin' nice. It has 175k+ miles and has never given me any trouble worth complainng about. My plans are to take the top off this fall for the first time. I've been paying for college for the last 5 years and will be for the next 9 years (all NC State to date). My plan is to drive this as long as I possibly can before buying something new - I need another 90k miles out of it. I love driving it to and from work. Many of my work friends drive foreign luxury but I just can't identify.

I picked up a barreled action in 7x57 for a song and pretty sure it is a Guardia Model 1916. Hoping someone can confirm. I read the internet/surplus rifle desriptions but am still not certain. See pictures. small ring, no markings other than 7mm and serial number on left rail turn down bolt left side, middle rail, flat bottom bolt 22"barrell, 7x57 post-manufacture thumb slot (a little sloppy) Overall it just doesn't ooze quality.

Very fine job. I like that style. Simple, elegant but has a no-nonsense, working rifle look. I like the knots... provides character.

I have a Canjar trigger on a Santa Barbara / 35 Whelen. It has a very nice feel and seems to be a good, but bulky trigger. I don't see these for sale anywhere - either commercially or on the auction sites. What is their history and does anyone know where might I get another one and what I should expect to pay?

Yes, at 1.65" from case head the 300 H&H is only .014 " wider than an '06. Not sure what one revolution setback would gain? It's another .294 inches to the '06 shoulder which would provide more "barrel" to work with. I guess around 1.65" , or less in the 300 H&H reamer might "chatter"?

I am the new owner of a Remington Model 30 barreled action that has a 26" barrel and am hopeful you could help me determine the barrel's maker. I believe it could be a Douglas replacement in their "ENF" contour. It has the contour of a 1917 (not surprising), it fits my original Model 30 stock's barrel channel (Model 30's used surplus 1917 barrels) and has 6 grooves that turn clockwise when viewed through the chamber (left turn?). I don't believe it's military - those were originally 5 groove barrels with 2 grooves used periodically as replacements. Douglas offers 6 groove barrels and this was verified in several other 6 groove Douglas barrels I have. Douglas, however no longer lists an "ENF" contour as they once did so I can't really verify their ENF contour. I'm trying to determine its quality and possible accuracy to see if it would be worth rechambering. My heart is set on a 300 H&H, but it is currently 30-06 AI. That is another question - first, can it be rechambered to 300 H&H and second, is it worth it ( bolt face, maga box, etc)since it is fairly close ballistically. I sure would like to hear some gunsmith opinions on the first question.

I agree on the common sense Montea6b - not looking for a legal opinion or anyone assuming any professional risk or liability, just others' working knowledge. I figured a few gunsmiths could comment on their modus operandi. I've contacted the ATF and didn't get a response.

What does the law require regarding serial numbers if I were to have receivers w/o serial numbers re-barreled? Consider the following scenarios : Scenario 1) Husqvarna 640's w/o serial numbers on the receivers - the serial numbers are on the barrels. Would you transfer the serial number on the discarded/reused barrel to the receiver; get assigned a new serial number and mark accordingly, or don't worry about it instead worry about ignorance being no excuse for breaking the law; Scenario 2) JC Higgins Model 50's which have no serial numbers anywhere; Scenario 3) FN Browning Safari/HiPowers which have serial numbers on both receiver and barrel (this is likely a no brainer - retains existing serial # and there's a discarded barrel with identical number floating around) If a serial number is required, which I've heard, but not confirmed: - What options exist for the location of the serial number - Can I pick my own number? ( a little levity?) I sure hate to think of someone hand stamping a nice receiver with some number - that's a sure way to detract from the aesthetics of a top quality recever since it wouldn't be performed under factory conditions.

Agree. * Will do.

If hunting with dogs open sights are preferable for the safety of the dogs - shot's will likely be <40 yards if bayed and even closer if treed. If blind or sight/stalk hunting receiver sights or low power should be sufficient. I'd opt for low power scope if low light is expected due to early/late hunts or if primarily in shaded woods.

257 Roberts; 87 grains; hogs? Nice load for coyote. Never used it on hogs just 117 grs. on small-medium hogs through chest cavity and they typically run 30 yards, or so. You must have more confidence regarding placement. Maybe there really isn't that much difference? What has been your experience?

You're exactly right Spiris - the guide carried a Marlin 336 in 35 Rem. with a tape-repaired wrist. But how fun is that? It only requires a trip to Wal Mart or the used rack at the local gunshop. On the other hand, refurbing 336's can be fun.

I carried a lightened, sportered Argentine 1909 the times I hunted bear in the Nantahala region of western North Carolina. It was nothing more than a cast off 20 inch, 30-06 Mark X barrel in an Arg carbine stock. Just for fun I put on a walnut forend. Sights included a Lyman SME 57 receiver sight and hooded Lyman front sight. I generally carried it slung upside down. I used handloaded 220gr. It was much lighter than your k98. Howver, I was going either up or down - you'll be walking on flat ground. Hopefully the pictures attached -

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I experimented with oxalic acid on another similar project and it worked well with lightening the color but not sure it drew or "dissolved" the oil out very well. I then neutralized with baking soda/water. If you don't neutralize your finish never really dries.

I have a shotgun buttstock that is stained from lubricating oil running down from the receiver. I am refinishing, have removed the finish but don't know how to succesfully remove the dark oil or the stain. Any ideas?

Thanks for the input. I posted over on MC's Tech Talk and googled some. I think I'll just pass for a number of reasons. There are other more shootable projects out there to spend time and money on.

I ran across a large ring mauser converted to a 12 ga. shotgun. It appeared to be a commercially-converted, Gew98 based on marks on some of the smaller parts. It had a 2 shell magazine with very nice, but dirty wood and a medallion on the side of the buttstock inscribed with "Geha" (?) in cursif. I'm considering buyiing it and restoring it - making it a first try at rust-blueing. I would also strip/refinish the stock, maybe even checker, etc. I'm assuming they're not worth much, but are a bit of a novelty. Could be fun for trap. I've read some of the earlier posts but couldn't "get a bead" on value. It was marked $225. Also, are these full choke? It wasn't marked.

Any ideas why a guard-mounted trigger was used? It seems it would decrease manufacturing tolerances and unfavorably impact safety if not manufactured within tolerance. My Model 50 guard-mounted trigger pull feels quite nice, but not really any better than the more standard mauser triggers.

Just returned from hunting in Texas myself -LaSalle County, near Cotulla. I look forward to Weaver77 hoppin' on the thread and giving all of us some insights.

Does anybody recognize this stock? Is it a pattern/style available from some of the more popular stock replacement companies? Or perhaps it is recognizable as one that is readily available, but significantly recontoured? I find this pattern quite attractive (sans inlays) and would like to locate one. This picture appeared in an earlier thread and I archived it for future reference. The earlier thread referred to it as listed on an auction site but didn't mention the possible source. Assuming it is not readily available, how would you proceed? Assume you don't have the original. My first thought is a Richard's Microfit Old Classic with some modification.

This product is is 80-85% methylene chloride.

Klean-strip Premium Stripper (Model ESR72, in a reddish-orange spray can) from Home Depot will soften it if it can touch it. That product removes polyurethane, stain varnish and epoxy. I removed an epoxied grip cap from a Rem Model 30 stock with it. Pretty sure it was epoxy - may be worth a try.

How about 35 Rem? It's low pressure, could use .357 pistol rounds, etc. Would those feed well?