Bob58

Saw same. I'm right there with you.

At the risk of intruding on a private conversation - we all like to talk about our favorite vehicles. Attached is a picture of my commuter. Granted it's a few years old, the vehicle is 13 years old and the picture is 5 years old but it still looks the same (except no raised white letters anymore). I try to keep it lookin' nice. It has 175k+ miles and has never given me any trouble worth complainng about. My plans are to take the top off this fall for the first time.

I've been paying for college for the last 5 years and will be for the next 9 years (all NC State to date). My plan is to drive this as long as I possibly can before buying something new - I need another 90k miles out of it. I love driving it to and from work. Many of my work friends drive foreign luxury but I just can't identify.

I picked up a barreled action in 7x57 for a song and pretty sure it is a Guardia Model 1916. Hoping someone can confirm. I read the internet/surplus rifle desriptions but am still not certain. See pictures.

• small ring, no markings other than 7mm and serial number on left rail
• turn down bolt
• left side, middle rail, flat bottom bolt
• 22"barrell, 7x57
• post-manufacture thumb slot (a little sloppy)

Overall it just doesn't ooze quality.

Very fine job. I like that style. Simple, elegant but has a no-nonsense, working rifle look. I like the knots... provides character.

I have a Canjar trigger on a Santa Barbara / 35 Whelen. It has a very nice feel and seems to be a good, but bulky trigger. I don't see these for sale anywhere - either commercially or on the auction sites. What is their history and does anyone know where might I get another one and what I should expect to pay?

The question of whether or not your AI chamber can be recut to 300 H&H can be answered, but whether it can be answered accurately or not I have no idea. The H&H case tapers significantly. At the shoulder location of your AI case, the H&H case is only a few thou larger, maybe. The maybe is because we do not know the specs of the reamer used to cut your chamber or the skill level of the person doing the work.

 

I have an 06 improved print that shows a case diameter only .002 smaller than an H&H print shows case diameter to be. That does not leave a lot to clean up as it is only .001 per side. The H&H reading was taken approximately .030 farther out from the case head, so that may give you a tich more working room.

 

Now, there is the possibility of setting your barrel back, but again with out knowing the specs of the reamer or the skill level of the person using it, how far it would have to be set back remains unknown. The farther back it is set, the looser it will be in your barrel channel.

 

I think Shilen also made a 6 groove barrel.

 

I'm not a gunsmith, so I may well be full of caca.

Yes, at 1.65" from case head the 300 H&H is only .014 " wider than an '06. Not sure what one revolution setback would gain? It's another .294 inches to the '06 shoulder which would provide more "barrel" to work with. I guess around 1.65" , or less in the 300 H&H reamer might "chatter"?

I am the new owner of a Remington Model 30 barreled action that has a 26" barrel and am hopeful you could help me determine the barrel's maker. I believe it could be a Douglas replacement in their "ENF" contour. It has the contour of a 1917 (not surprising), it fits my original Model 30 stock's barrel channel (Model 30's used surplus 1917 barrels) and has 6 grooves that turn clockwise when viewed through the chamber (left turn?).

I don't believe it's military - those were originally 5 groove barrels with 2 grooves used periodically as replacements. Douglas offers 6 groove barrels and this was verified in several other 6 groove Douglas barrels I have. Douglas, however no longer lists an "ENF" contour as they once did so I can't really verify their ENF contour.

I'm trying to determine its quality and possible accuracy to see if it would be worth rechambering. My heart is set on a 300 H&H, but it is currently 30-06 AI. That is another question - first, can it be rechambered to 300 H&H and second, is it worth it ( bolt face, maga box, etc)since it is fairly close ballistically.

I sure would like to hear some gunsmith opinions on the first question.

There's lots of good advice and common sense on these forums, but if you're looking for a legal opinion on federal law you should get it in writing from the ATF.

I agree on the common sense Montea6b - not looking for a legal opinion or anyone assuming any professional risk or liability, just others' working knowledge. I figured a few gunsmiths could comment on their modus operandi. I've contacted the ATF and didn't get a response.

What does the law require regarding serial numbers if I were to have receivers w/o serial numbers re-barreled? Consider the following scenarios :

Scenario 1) Husqvarna 640's w/o serial numbers on the receivers - the serial numbers are on the barrels. Would you transfer the serial number on the discarded/reused barrel to the receiver; get assigned a new serial number and mark accordingly, or don't worry about it instead worry about ignorance being no excuse for breaking the law;

Scenario 2) JC Higgins Model 50's which have no serial numbers anywhere;

Scenario 3) FN Browning Safari/HiPowers which have serial numbers on both receiver and barrel (this is likely a no brainer - retains existing serial # and there's a discarded barrel with identical number floating around)

If a serial number is required, which I've heard, but not confirmed:

- What options exist for the location of the serial number

- Can I pick my own number? ( a little levity?)

I sure hate to think of someone hand stamping a nice receiver with some number - that's a sure way to detract from the aesthetics of a top quality recever since it wouldn't be performed under factory conditions.

Guys,

 

Black bears aren't bulletproof. A 30-30, 30-06, 8x57JS, 45 Colt, 44 Mag...anything you can shoot will kill them. Guys even kill them with bows and arrows.

 

It doesn't take a 50BMG to bring down a black bear - I don't care how big it is - all it takes is a good, clean shot to put your query down. Shoot whatever you can shoot accurately and go hunting.

 

*Next time someone starts bemoaning the size of large hogs and their toughness...remember what I wrote above. They're not bulletproof either.

Agree.

* Will do.

The Remington bullets will work fine in the load you have described. In fact, that load would work well for Elk, at moderate distances. It should be quite effective on Black Bear. As it happens, most Black Bears are taken at fairly short distances, especially in the Eastern US, often less than 100 yards. So, how comfortable are you with iron sights ? If not with the issue ones, then you could put a set of aftermarket sights on one of your Mausers...such as the Mojo aperture sights. These make fine short to moderate range hunting sights...and are great in the brush. That is, IF your eyes will still work with irons. Or, you could install a receiver sight, such as a Lyman 57 SME. That would also make for a very good brush gun setup. My eyes won't cooperate with irons anymore - so I recently changed to a long-eye relief 4x scope. That would be my other suggestion. If you NEED a scope...you definitely will NOT need high magnification....4x should be all you'll ever need for Black Bear. So, you could install an S&K "Insta-Mount" on one of your Mausers.....with a suitable LER scope. Makes for a terrific short to medium-distance setup...with no permanent alterations to your rifle. Lots of people have negative things to say about mounting a scope forward, such as "small field of view" complaints. The answer to that is : DON'T get crazy with the magnification. 9x is ridiculous on MOST rifles anyway....and certainly it is unnecessary on any rifle to be used mostly at distances of 250 yards or less. A 4x or lower LER scope will do nicely, for your purposes. If you keep the magnification at or below 4x, as well, it is usually possible to train yourself to shoot with BOTH eyes open...thus getting the largest field of view POSSIBLE.

 

Anyway, the choice is yours. Those are my thoughts on the subject.

If hunting with dogs open sights are preferable for the safety of the dogs - shot's will likely be <40 yards if bayed and even closer if treed.

If blind or sight/stalk hunting receiver sights or low power should be sufficient. I'd opt for low power scope if low light is expected due to early/late hunts or if primarily in shaded woods.

257 Roberts; 87 grains; hogs? Nice load for coyote. Never used it on hogs just 117 grs. on small-medium hogs through chest cavity and they typically run 30 yards, or so. You must have more confidence regarding placement. Maybe there really isn't that much difference? What has been your experience?

I'm going to buck the trend here and recommend using one of your lever action rifles that I know that you have mentioned before. If it's wooded area, they are still relevant and a lot easier to carry than the mauser, if you're still hunting. If you hunt from a blind or stand, then anything will work.

 

Spiris

You're exactly right Spiris - the guide carried a Marlin 336 in 35 Rem. with a tape-repaired wrist. But how fun is that? It only requires a trip to Wal Mart or the used rack at the local gunshop. On the other hand, refurbing 336's can be fun.

I carried a lightened, sportered Argentine 1909 the times I hunted bear in the Nantahala region of western North Carolina. It was nothing more than a cast off 20 inch, 30-06 Mark X barrel in an Arg carbine stock. Just for fun I put on a walnut forend. Sights included a Lyman SME 57 receiver sight and hooded Lyman front sight. I generally carried it slung upside down. I used handloaded 220gr.

It was much lighter than your k98. Howver, I was going either up or down - you'll be walking on flat ground. Hopefully the pictures attached -

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I experimented with oxalic acid on another similar project and it worked well with lightening the color but not sure it drew or "dissolved" the oil out very well. I then neutralized with baking soda/water. If you don't neutralize your finish never really dries.

I have a shotgun buttstock that is stained from lubricating oil running down from the receiver. I am refinishing, have removed the finish but don't know how to succesfully remove the dark oil or the stain. Any ideas?

Thanks for the input. I posted over on MC's Tech Talk and googled some. I think I'll just pass for a number of reasons. There are other more shootable projects out there to spend time and money on.

I ran across a large ring mauser converted to a 12 ga. shotgun. It appeared to be a commercially-converted, Gew98 based on marks on some of the smaller parts. It had a 2 shell magazine with very nice, but dirty wood and a medallion on the side of the buttstock inscribed with "Geha" (?) in cursif.

I'm considering buyiing it and restoring it - making it a first try at rust-blueing. I would also strip/refinish the stock, maybe even checker, etc. I'm assuming they're not worth much, but are a bit of a novelty. Could be fun for trap.

I've read some of the earlier posts but couldn't "get a bead" on value. It was marked $225. Also, are these full choke? It wasn't marked.

Any ideas why a guard-mounted trigger was used? It seems it would decrease manufacturing tolerances and unfavorably impact safety if not manufactured within tolerance. My Model 50 guard-mounted trigger pull feels quite nice, but not really any better than the more standard mauser triggers.

Just returned from hunting in Texas myself -LaSalle County, near Cotulla. I look forward to Weaver77 hoppin' on the thread and giving all of us some insights.

Does anybody recognize this stock? Is it a pattern/style available from some of the more popular stock replacement companies? Or perhaps it is recognizable as one that is readily available, but significantly recontoured? I find this pattern quite attractive (sans inlays) and would like to locate one.

This picture appeared in an earlier thread and I archived it for future reference. The earlier thread referred to it as listed on an auction site but didn't mention the possible source.

Assuming it is not readily available, how would you proceed? Assume you don't have the original. My first thought is a Richard's Microfit Old Classic with some modification.

Klean-strip Premium Stripper (Model ESR72, in a reddish-orange spray can) from Home Depot will soften it if it can touch it. That product removes polyurethane, stain varnish and epoxy. I removed an epoxied grip cap from a Rem Model 30 stock with it. Pretty sure it was epoxy - may be worth a try.

This product is is 80-85% methylene chloride.

Klean-strip Premium Stripper (Model ESR72, in a reddish-orange spray can) from Home Depot will soften it if it can touch it. That product removes polyurethane, stain varnish and epoxy. I removed an epoxied grip cap from a Rem Model 30 stock with it. Pretty sure it was epoxy - may be worth a try.

How about 35 Rem? It's low pressure, could use .357 pistol rounds, etc. Would those feed well?

I have a factory model 30s in 257 Robts and just love it - just finished a toe repair and freshening the checkering. Also have a Model 30 in 30-06 AI and a nicely sportered 1917 that I'm considering converting to 300 H&H someday, or maybe I should rebarrel the 30-06 AI to 300 H&H, but then again those are ballistically similar, but then again... Something to think about when I should be focused elsewhere.