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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Limpid Lizard

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Everything posted by Limpid Lizard

  1. Single pointing is the only real option, and as has been mentioned, it is hardly worth the effort. You would have to build tooling to set the receiver up in the lathe and then cut the thread. Unless one was looking for a challenge, one would have to vaule his time pretty cheaply to justify the time spent on this. Could I do this? Yes, the required tooling was built for another project and is sitting on the shop bench. Would I spend my time on this? Not unless I was damn broke and bored. LL
  2. Yes they do. However, they manipulate the shipping charges so that at times you pay more for the product after the discount than if you had just bought it outright. LL
  3. Cheap lipstick for high spotting. LL.
  4. With Teflon/Moly, I do not think it is possible to completely avoid chips and wear, however, most of the chipping I have experienced has been within a day or so of removing the items from the oven. I have found that a 3-4 day cure after baking greatly reduces the amount of chipping on Teflon/Moly. I have switched to Gun Kote and prefer it. That is just a preference, and I could easily see where someone else might prefer the Teflon/Moly from Brownells. MEK, TEC, or acetone might be better than soap and water for a final cleaning. You might be getting soap residue I have not used baking laquer. LL
  5. There are a couple problems with the screw idea. A screw or bolt is cut undesize so that it will ride on the thread sides when tight, not bottom out on the the crests. It is also cut so that the crests of the hole it is screwed into will not bottom out on the screw or bolt. A tap on the other hand cuts a larger hole than the expected screw. 75% is the standard engagement, however there are several classes of fits that are tighter. All in all, the screw will most likely work. Just be aware that it is not accomplishing the same thing a tap world. The achieved fit may well be either tight or too tight. LL
  6. Limpid Lizard

    Barrel vise

    A properly set up military barrel on a 98 Mauser torques on the inner ring. That is the primary torque shoulder. However, not all military Mauser 98 barrels are set up with relief in between the barrel shoulder and the secondary torque shoulder. Furthermore, many models of Mauser do not have two torque shoulders. Many 98's with sporter barrels torque on both shoulders. One thing I do not need is another project, but I would not be adverse to buying stock and knocking the bolt and bushing holes into several vises. Would anyone be interested in one for the cost of material and shipping? I could cut the bushing holes, and drill the minor and clearance holes in the parts. Each individual would tap his own holes. LL
  7. Turn the tap out of oil hardening drill rod. Cut flutes with a dremel. Heat red while spinnig in drill press. Plunge, while spinning, into transmission fluid. Heat in oven at 350-450 for an hour. LL
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