weaver77

good to see you finished it looks really good that pic of the bore is really cool ive tried to get similar pics with no luck also looks like you are enjoying some nice weather i started my 338-06 project but keep getting side tracked with other things i did get my 280 rem done now go draw some blood with it and post more pics weaver77

Clemson was he a spinner i like to shoot them a little far back so i can watch them spin we have tons of coyotes around here and if the weather stays cool enough we hunt them at night i usually use my 222 rem the worst i have ever seen them was when i was hunting in mexico you could shoot four or five of them at one setting they arent educated over there as the average guy doesnt drive a round with a rifle in the truck most of the time they just stand there and stare at you they also eat the corn in your senderos if you wait long enough you can line two up for one shot pretty cool when you have two spinners in your sendero at the same time glad to see you putting that nice 257 to work so soon james

like Don said the rear hole on the receiver ring should be in front of the lug seat the ones you saw drilled and tapped into the lug seat where done incorrectly james

RonE thats a new one on me the closest to that that i have seen was tire tread lag bolted to butt to make a pad please post pics of finished pad weaver77

on the harder receivers i use a titanium coated bit ( the gold colored ones) one size smaller than needed then ream with correct size bit then tap with the higher quality taps i had some black taps that where P.O.S. and broke one after that i spent a little more on them with the titanium bits i havent had any problems drilling thru as far as anealing i have never had much luck with it im sure some of the other guys will chime in with suggestions but you may end up having to anneal and reheat treat the receiver to a known hardness it sounds like that one is harder than woodpecker lips james

not wanting to high jack the post but is it greasy what does it compare to coonmeat ? do yall make bear sausge, salami or jerky bear burgers sound like the could fill you up james

i thinks that using the stock yugo is a great idea especially if you arent having any problems with the issue open sights i have one that i use as my truck gun only the stock has been shaveded down and i worked on the trigger the load i ended up using is 45.5 gr reloader 15 with a 175 gr sierra spitzer i regulated the load to the military sight adjustment and we can nock the bowling pins around with it at 300 yds this load has preformed great on hogs up to about 275 lbs and i am getting good expansion on javilinas and coyotes with it but have not taken anything with it farther than about 125 yds when loaded up to max with reloader 15 it was still an accurate load but was shooting several inches high keep us informed on what you decide and how you hunt goes and good luck james ps how does bear meat taste ? i have yet to try it.

others have done it but i wouldnt personally build a magnum on a small ring thread turk not sure what yours is could be a turk rearsenaled std 98 as to the 798 i have heard alot of variation on the quality with most stating that accuarcy has been running in 1 1/2 inch + ball park and that the machining isnt as good as the interarms i handled one at the store and what i was told as to the machining is true the stocks and triggers are some what lacking also i would look for a interarms on the used market before i bought a 798 i picked up a mark x in 7 mag about a month ago for $300 but the stock is different than you normally see it is more of a euro clasic with pancake cheek peace i havent had a chance to shoot it yet though hows the 93 project coming along what cal are you going with it ? james

looking good mike i really like the side rail treatment i really gives the receiver a (for lack of a better word) crisper leaner look keep up the great work weaver77

i agree that we shouldnt get rid of it all together a sticky in sporterizing is a good idea i learned and joined the reamer co-op from this forum didnt even know there was one till i saw it here even though no one posts in it it has the links and contact info to the co-op maybe we should ask mike to update the list more often i know there are alot more reamers available then what are listed weaver77

ken they are brownells mier butterknife bolt handles #573-112-100 castings and a bear to polish out weaver77

here is an early look at them now all you have to do is wait on the mail weaver77

good looking rifle i have had the same problem with the boyds stock the last two where inleted to wide on the left side of the receiver you cant hardly find one with the starter barrel channel but the one good thing about the laminates is that its pretty easy to hide the glass repairs they kinda blend in with the laminations what is the finished weight of it just currious as to how much lighter it turned out with the f14 barrel also who did the engraving its real nice i havent seen a box of old style winchester silver tlps around in a while keep up the good work and shooting weaver77

unless your pretty skinny it looks like the toe of the stock is a little long being as the stock is long to start with you might want to cut it further back for a test fit of the angle then adjust till it feels right and transfer that line to your trigger pull length and recut that way if your angle isnt right you arent stuck with it or a short length of pull when angle is adjusted i see this alot on trapp guns that are adjusted to an individual shooter a buddy of mine is real skinny and if i shoot his gun the toe digs into my chest if he shoots mine it digs in the top of his shoulder hope this helps james

i have had the same problem with turk bolts its compounded when you use a stick welder my solution other than replacing the bolt has been to make my first passes using a higher amperage setting then grind out and rough shape then make second pass at normal setting it also helps alot using a dc welder been meaning to post some pics just been to lazy to load them we do have a nice display of individualism in the ones that have been posted good work fellas weaver77

i had the same probem with one ( to thick in wrist and hump behind reciever) i ended up rasping it down and sanding smooth but in order to get it thin enough i had to get into the grip checkering which i didnt mind after the grip was thinned and hump taken down i redifined the border at the top of the grip checkering sanded the seem lines out and then recoated the stock with the truck bed liner that you can get at walmart in a spray can it turned out pretty good and since the rifle was setup like a tactical every thing looked right once the action was bedded it turned out to be a pretty solid stock but if youre building something nicer i wouldnt use one unless you intend to upgrade it latter and just wanted to be able to shoot and use it for awhile heres a pic of the one i did sorry i dont have any close ups and i gave the rifle to my nephew

the chrome moly shilen barrels that are pre threaded are not lead lapped like thier stainless ones for that matter i belive that none of the chrome molly ones are me and a buddy have had good luck with them but we polish the bores before finish chambering with jb bore paste ( these where both blanks ) another buddy built a 7x57 with one of the pre chambered and threaded ones and his accuracy was not good and his barrel was coppering bad he polished it wih 400 grit lapping compound then jb bore paste and acuaracy improved alot and the coppering all but went away its to bad douglas doesnt sell prethread and chambered barrels i have had good luck with the a&b barrels but they get the polished with 400 and jb before i finish chambering and crowning them never have used a shaw but ive heard more bad then good about them i also favor the 338-06 over the 338 federal for no reason in particular just do good luck with the build and keep us posted weaver77

well i dont want to do it because its sensible i want to do it BECAUSE CHICKS DIG IT or so ive heard i was thinking about that little bit of neck and was thinking i might be able bump it back while neck sizing with the 6.5 x55 full lenght sizing die i just run it down till it sizes the whole neck plus a couple thousands to bump the neck shoulder junction back then bump the rest of the shoulder back in the 7x57 die i was also comparing case diamension drawings on both cases and all three sources had slightly different diamensions the sierra books i think are the closest then when i think about it more i think its going to come down to the actual reamer dimensions i will have to wait untill i have it fully chambered to know for sure if the reamer is an acutual 7x57 necked down to 6.5 or a 257 bob necked up to 6.5 i think i have a pretty good chance to make it work if its the other version that i have only read about and not seen with the 6.5x55 shoulder moved forward 3 mils then i think i will be SOL and have to get special order dies but i think that one is the european version and the 7x57 or 257 bob based one is pretty much standardized here if i can manage to gather the componets to get the rifle put together i will post my findngs thanks james

i been nocking the idea of a 6.5x57 around but dont want to buy the expensive dies so i came up with this and was wondering if anyone else had tried it i have 6.5x55 dies and 7x57 dies so i was thinking that i could neck size the 7x57 cases down in the 6.5x55 dies then seat bullets with ith 6.5x55 seating die load and shoot them then the once fired brass could be partialy resized (maybe push the shoulder back .002) in the 7x57 die with out the expander ball in or swaping in the 6.5 expander and decaping rod and again neck sized in the 6.5x55 dies and use the 6.5x55 seating die to seat bullets i know it sounds like a lot of trouble but i dont think it will be as bad as it sounds after a good load is found then just load up a bunch at one time and youre good for awhile if anyone has tried this please chime in or if you have some better sugestion please post it i havent put the rifle together yet so i cant really experiment yet thanks weaver77

yes you are and you may have to wait a while before i use a barrel that needs lapping well its more of a polishing technique to slick barrel up alittle actual lead lapping is more than i am set up to do i am still working in my garage and running over to a couple of buddies to get on their lathes but my shop is in the works just waiting on this years tax return thanks to our "superior" goverment representation and the ecconomic growth tax reimbursment the slab will get poured late spring early summer then i can start gathering all my equipment back up and set everthing up in my dedicated gun room i may even splurge and replace my old welder with a tig

this one all ready has a new home its part of a trade i worked with another friend has bold trigger a&b f34 24" 1pc redfield base mk11 safety i just got thru setting trigger to 2 1/2 lbs and putting my beater 3x9 redfied on so i can test fire with factry ammo thursday it has minimum head spacing and i went ahead and lapped the barrel seems like i end up doing it any way on the a&b i quit useing them on my own builds even though i have had good luck with them they clean up alot fast after lapping i have two i think im going to list for sale an f54 6.5 blank 26" long and a 24" f34 .243 any takers or trade for 25 cal. well if im lucky this thing will one hole on thursday ill try and remember to post up date weaver77

the dura bake is a little easier to use as you dont have to preheat the metal but it does not dry verry fast if ever and is hard to handle trying to get it i the oven because it will still smear the kg gun kote is easier to apply once you have preheated the metal it sticks better and starts dying immediatly and is less prone to run in just a few miniutes you can handle it with latex gloves and get it in the oven i try not to touch it untill its cured but it seems you always bump it a little trying to get it in the oven and the bumps show in the dura bake they dont in the kg gun kote so for my money im using the kg gun kote if you ment dura coat that stuff takes to long to cure something like 21 days to fully harden weaver77

for my 2 cents from the look of the edges of the hole it appears that area of the bolt was some how crystalized during the heat treat possibly due to some type of impurities in the steel used i have seen similar type breaks in cast iron it happens when cast is being resmelted and something other than cast iron gets smelted with it (like a crank shaft left in a block) the resulting cast iron will be really hard to mill due to the inconsitancy of the materials and is prone to breakage at in these areas due to the different expansion and contraction rates of the different material simply one cools and shrinks faster than the other causing stress fractures and giving results like the one seen on your bolt i would not use it as it may have more areas like that which havent showed up yet but as soon as you put more heat to it and it cools again another chunk could pop loose or a stress fracture could be created leading to failure of the bolt later theres an intermediate bolt on ebay right now it has the "tits" on the bolt face but is still usable in a yugo either by removing the "tits" or doing away with the safety breech anyway dont use the one you have well that rant may have been more like a quarters worth weaver77

well here it is all bright and shiny its a 25-06 i finished the metal with kg gun kote in satin black and brushed stainless i like this metal finish alot better than duracoat or durabake

thanks for the replies i think the wise choice will be to pass on the siamese stock if anyone else is interested in it i was listed on great american gunstocks discounted list and was really cheap but as usual theres probably a good reason for the price like smoke damage thanks again weaver77