weaver77

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i havent bought it yet and it is semi inleted thas one of the reasons i was thinking it might work i have a couple of builds to do for family so there wont be any monitary returns on them and i am trying to get by cheap and nice instead of pricey and purty so while i am on the subject i am looking for a couple of 25 cal lighter weight barrels some bottom metal a couple of price wise stocks syn lam wood i am easy i have a .308 douglas barrel a complete 93 bolt except that the handles been cut off a couple of ruger take offs and a few rem take offs for trade or $ and then theres always manual labor so getting back to the siamese its a plain dark walnut but i like the looks of it so i need a little input from the siamese experts thanks weaver77

i found a stock that has been inleted for a siamese 98 i havent had any experience with siamese mausers and dont have the stock on hand to compare so im wondering if this stock would work on a standard 98 i know the bottom metal is different but was thinking it might work on a std 98 your thoughts please thanks weaver77

thats because your old and you got a head start on your stash over us young bucks i figure that by the time some one calls me old my pile of 24/47's might be in demand ha ha !!!! besides wouldnt you rather have us amatures making mistakes and buba-ing up the intermediates and save the few std 98's we can afford for latter on when we think we know what where doing heck im still trying to find my first mex so i can butcher it maybe even weld ring bases to it like the 96 i saw at a gun show they where some real pretty welds though ....ha !!! but in all reality whats so bad about the 24/47s some of the 48s ive seen wherent to bad either but even i wouldnt use the 48A for a build i was going to put alot of time into the machining on every one ive seen is pretty rough and theres not a whole lot you can do with the stamped bottom metal but th 24/47s clean up real nice and slick

i removed the bottom metal and filed the high spots down and contour that area to blend into the surrounding area the sides of the stock along the action still needed to be thinned and contoured up to the ejector box and into forarm of stock so i installed the ejector box and removed wood at a long angles towards the bottom of the stock then filed down the peak and began blending the sides into the rest of the stock for a smooth look i used a finer cut fill for this as i wanted to start removing the rasp marks this being done i turned my attention to the loading port area of the stock which was still squared off to the action i used a half round file to bevel this area and started sanding the stock with 220 grit to remove the file and rasp marks being carful not to remove to much wood from the metal and wood junctions so as not to leave proud metal and followed the 220 with 320 grit i then refit the recoil pad and installed the sling swivels(which i didnt take any pics of ) and finish sanded the complete stock but still left the wood a little proud to be sanded down after the first application of stock finish i find it easier to see any imperfections and correct them with the stock a little shiny every thing stand out a little better and since the first coats of finish are intended to penetrate the wood sanding the surface again doesnt hurt anything and gives the finish a better chance to penetrate during the latter applications heres a few pics of the assembled rifle after sanding i am satisfied with the shape and the balance of it and will now start putting the finish on the stock

you live in alaska it was probably dark when the delivery guy was trying to deliver it he had to wait for the sun to come up to find your house ha ha !!! well for my 2 cents the ackley versions of the 257 bob and the 7 x57 make sense they are the two that are not over bore for caliber and they are a great fit for the intermideate length 98 especialy if you what 25-06 or near 280 rem performance out of it and the yugos are plentifull and cheap $89 barrled action at century thats cheaper than a k kales right now and the better std 98's are getting harder to find and more expensive so sooner or latter where all going to be using them look at the turks for instance a while back you could get 3 for $159 or so now if your lucky you will find one for $100 and the swedes you used to could get them for $79 try and find one now for a $179 so my rant will end with they make sense if you want to better your balistic performance on an action thats handicaped by a 1/4" and as horsefly pointed out to me any small ring stock will work with a little work and look at the selection on those still out there

i started welding on the farm when i was twelve we have a family friend that is a welder and machinist instructor that got me started i eye ball my bolt alingment then tack weld and check some times it takes a couple of tries to get it right this rifle i am building as a trade so i went as cheap as possible and reused the military bolt handle the bolts handles on the yugos come out alot nicer using this method as the nobs have more of the pear shape that i prefer compared to the round one on this bolt i usually save the yugo bolt handles when i replace them with after market ones so i can use them on other builds so dont throw yours away send them my way i am almost done with the stock now and have a lot more pics to post maybe latter tonight i will get around to loading them on to photo bucket and then here thanks for the compliments and the replies weaver77

an old lincon gas powered sae 200 stick welder

here are some more shots of the bolt i mocked up a scope to give a good idea of the clearance i have

thanks for the kind comments i got a few shots in there sorry some of them are not too clear i think the ones using the flash are a little better like in the next reply

heres a look at how every thing is starting to come together the sides of the stock along the action still need to thinned and blended into the bottom forend and grip tang area,reinstalling and resizing the butt pad and final sanding in preperation of wood finishing are yet to be done

alright the butt and comb of the stock have been reshaped and the the flutes in the comb where cut a little deeper and squared with round and half round files i have also started blending the grip tang area into the sides of the stock it is a good idea to install the bolt stop so that too much wood is not removed in this area again be sure not to remove too much wood so that all file marks and final sanding can be done with out ending up with proud metal at this point i needed the bolt handle turned down so that i could transition the grip and tang area in to the sides of the stock so heres how i did this particular bolt using the original bolt handle first using a metal cut off wheel i cut the handle off right where it starts to become round and so that it will not come out to short i use a grade 9 bolt to add to the handle i then grind my welds down by chucking the handle up a drill and spinning it first on the bench grinder to remove the excess then on a belt sander to get a nice even contour the handle is then cut off to desired length wich was 2 1/2" in this case the handle was then positioned under the square shank on the bolt body at desired angles and tack welded and checked with every thing where it needed to be it was welded up shaped and contoured the notch in the stock and action tang where cut using a dremmel tool and small hand files and the bolt was fitted into the stock

i have more to come yet including the bolt work but loading pics on photo bucket is no easy task for me the putting every thing here in order takes alot of time but i am working on it weaver77

i can now turn the stock over and recontour the top to the grip area up to the rear reciever bridge i also moved the leading edge of the comb back alittle as can be seen the same method of rasping in flats and the rasping down the peaks was used to get the desired contour this is a good time to check the comb hieght to be sure it clears the bolt it didnt so i lowered the leading top edge of of the come to get minimum clearnce the next step is to bring the comb line down on a straight line with the clearence cut made for the bolt remove the minimum amount of wood needed to get a straight line and get minimum clearance for the bolt latter when this is contoured and finish sanded you will have plenty of clearance and still have a high enough comb for scope use using the same method rasp flats into the sides of the comb and repeat untill desired contour is reached the flats should be slightly wider at the front of the comb than at the back of the comb

in these next pics the forend has been rough shaped and rounded i decided to round it off to the triggergaurd the sides of the forend where to thick so i thinned them by rasping a very obtuse angle starting at the top of the barrel channel on both sides then rasping the peaks off in to flats just like before untill the desire contour is reached i left the bottom slightly wider then the top leaving the center section of the stock alone for now i moved on to the grip area it was to close and thick also notice how the stock is thicker on one side in the middle along side the action we will worry about this latter i start opening the grip up by rasping a flat in to it and moving the forward line of the grip back the desired amount in this case about 3/8 to 1/2" i then rasp flats into it on each side of the first flat and continue doing this untill i get it shaped correctly or if a grip cap was to be installed i would shape it to match remember to leave engough extra wood to be able to sand out the file marks latter i also removed the excess wood around the rear of the triggerguard notice the high spots at the guard these will be removed latter when the triggerguard is removed and will be filled down to match the lower areas around it

sonic sporter express has them unfinished for about $84

ive been thinking of something along the same lines but in a .308 norma mag on a yugo the only thing thats been holding me back is leanghting the mag box to the rear not wanting to highjack this thread i might start one on that topic as far as strength there has been winchester short mags built on yugos and strength was never an issue with them feeding was the problem i have also seen posts referencing 30-06's built on yugos with no modifications what so ever to mag box and have been wondering if those where really m48s or 24/47s i think they may have actullay been captured std 98s rearsenaled with the yugo comi crest thats just my 2 cents ive measured several times and alway came up a minimum of 1/8" short and usually a 1/4" but i think every one i measured was a 27/47 not sure if theres a difference there

i started this one about a week ago it is a boyd's clasic in pepper laminate semi inleted i hope the pics and text make sense im better at just showing some one how to do something than telling them so if something is not clear or needs to be clarified please chime in criticizem is well come correcting my spelling is not i know it suxs the first pics are of the stock and barreled action before any inletting was done the next are of the barreled action inleted and being glass bedded now that the barreled action is in place i start with the proud wood around the triggergaurd and rasp it down to with in about 1/16" above the triggergaurd extending a flat across the bottom of the fore arm all the way to the tip in a straight line i make sure and leave it slighty high so that there is still wood that needs to be removed using finer files and sand papper so that by the time the wood line matches the metal lines all file marks are removed i check my progess with a straight edge and the closer i get to the metal the slower i go be verry carefull not to remove too much wood as by the time all file marks are removed you will end up with proud metal which is unacceptable so go slow and if you think you are getting close stop you can always take more off latter with finer cutting files and sand papper after the flat on the bottom is done i file flats at approx 45 degree angles to it on the sides these flats should tapper slightly with the narrow ends being towards the trigger guard and wider at the tip but stopping stopping short of or at the leading end of the triggerguard depending on if you are going to leave a flat contour around the triggerguard or if you are going to round the bottom of the stock off to the triggerguard it is easier to round the bottom off and if you are you can extend the flats along the sides of the triggerguard again it is important not to remove too much wood or you will end up with proud metal you must also remember that you are only rough shaping the stock right now and final shaping and blending will be done with fine cut files sand papper and scrapers i used the files in the next pic to try and help illustrate after both flats are done i rasp in another set of flats on the edges formed by the three exsisting flats these should also taper wider at tip narrower towards triggerguard i tried to give a better idea of how the flats should look by using the tape and file you are now starting to round the fore arm back off the next step will be to rasp in four more flats on the edges formed by the previous ones at this point it is nessecery to decide wether the bottom of the stock will have a flat contuor around the triggerguard or be rounded off if it is to be rounded off you can continue to rasp and file in flats untill the forearm of the stock is close to the desired shape i havent decided wich way to go yet as the boyd stocks are a little lean in this area and i havent quite figured out the best way for it to be done any one that has more experince in this area is welcome to join in more pics to come soon

i just got back from mexico sorry for the delay sarco runs and add in the shotgun news and every so often they where listing those barrels best bet is to give them a call and ask them if they have them they where calling them 8mmx63 sweede barrels but i dont believe thats what the chamber actually was as the diamiter of the chamber seemed a good bit larger but dont get your hopes up about sarco actually haveing anything in stock that they advertise it a 50/50 shot at best i will round up thier number in the morning and post it for yall brian i will pm you the load data i used this particular barrel wasnt verry picky and the worst five shot group was with the 185 rem corlkt's best was with 180 nos balistic tips close runner up 175 sierra pro hunter's which is the bullet i normaly use in my 8x57's i took my nephew out to shoot and then gave him a crash course on reloading had him load up some more ammo and then took him out to shoot again it was a really good experience doing that with him and i am still not sure who had more fun me or him

i didnt realize there was no floor plate now i see it if you are going to thin the stock any more wait untill you get the action inleted and the tang looking right other wise you may take to much off the forend as you will probably have to inlet the barrel channel deeper also and then take wood of the top of the barrel channel so take it slow and do your final stock shaping and sanding last i agree with kenak about the using the military rear sight on a mannlicher too bulky just my added 2 cents

looks go so far the whole tang is high so i dont think recontouring it alone will help it looks like you may have to inlet it a little deeper and you may also have to reduce the magazine box depth to get it inleted deep enough you may do a little of both contour the tang a little and inlet a little deeper atleast thats what it looks like from the pics nice job though i dont think any of my builds ever come out perfect theres always some thing a little off or some thing you had to fix most of the time nobody notices untill you point it out as far a the rest of the stock goes it looks good to me i have never done a manlicher and couldnt even start to give advice on one weaver77

my hunting buddy and taxidermist mike mudd put this one together on a turk action shilen barrel and fajen stock he shot this boar this year while we where hunting in webb county texas with it and a handload using 215gr sierra game king about a 100 yd shot the bullet broke both shoulders and stopped under the plate on the off side big pigs are tuff

i built this one on a turk action with one of sarco's 8 x 63 swede barrels they where selling i cut the chamber off tappered the barrel and rechabered to 8x57 i bought a fajen syn stock cheap so i reshaped it glassbedded and recoated the outside of it with spray on truck bed liner the kind you can get at wal mart verry durable stuff i then durabaked the barred action and bolt and mounted a 6 x 24 x40 tasco on it and gave it to my nephew for his 14th birthday he was estatic to get it the targets behind it where shot with the first four different handloads that i put together for it its a shooter almost kept it for me

All right you twisted my arm. That stock bill is referring to was a walnut classic from Boyds. I was lucky and got one with slightly under sized inletting so I was able to get a good metal to wood fit. I spent a good while reshaping it and thinning it, I think the reason it came out so nice is because I started shaping and opening the grip area first, then I just removed wood and thinned the rest of the stock to match the grip and added a mesquite tip. Since then I've been doing the last few stocks the same way. I've only had one of about 6 stocks from Boyds that the inletting was slightly over sized on and that one was a pepper laminate so I was able to glass it all in with out it being noticeable. The fellow that build was for is very happy with it I started it right before deer season thinking I could get it done quick, but that never works out. But it was ready by the end of November. That's the one I was supposed to get more pics of for bilurey as I shaped each area of the stock, but I like to hunt more then I like bilurey ( no offence meant ) so I am hoping to make amends with the 25-06 I'm doing now. The barrel is in, stocks in, bottom metal is reshaped; trigger and safety are waiting patiently in a drawer. The chamber reamer is not here yet so I haven't started the stock work yet since I like the barreled action to do the inletting. I guess I could of fit the barrel to the action and started, but I hate have to set a barrel up in the lathe more than once. I almost forgot I've done a couple of Richards’s stocks also. The inletting was fine on them, but by time you get done rasping on them (yes rasp no file and sand pepper till a pound and a half of wood is removed ) you will have both put on some muscle and filled up your shop vac. I'm with zr1 and don't really like them either which reminds me zr1 hasn't disclosed the source of his "$150" stocks yet (hint meant). Any way I hope to post some more pics soon. Also I still have some mesquite wood blocks left if anyone wants to try one. They usually finish out about the color of rosewood but a lot harder wood almost as hard as hickory and harder then most walnut. PM me if anyone needs a piece, I also have some slabs that make nice knife handles or pistol grips.

i found the flaw although it is was an exceptional deal the bolt stop is not correct great buy don i pm'ed you