weaver77

i use them and like them i dont weld the on like the directions say they come out short and dont give enough clearance for low rings instead i cut the original bolt handle of just past where it turns round then i weld up the kind of "v" notch in the dakota handle and reshape that end of shank round and grind and bevel the desired angle on the end then i weld them on to the bottom of the square part of the bolt handle shank that is on the bolt body positioning it about 1/8 of and inch away from the bolt body so i can clean the weld up easier and see where the flat on the bottom of the original bolt was to time bolt close position back to original position this all seems more difficult than it is but it usually only takes me about 30 to 40 minutes to get handle welded on them several hours to shape and polish but thats with any bolt hope this helps let me know if you need more info (zr1 dont throw them away send them to me!!) heres a couple i did

it was formby's tung oil finish and yes it did look fine when first done it wasnt untill put it in the safe and took it out about 6 months latter that i could tell the difference i will take pics tommarrow and post with some of when first finished the formby's isnt pure tung oil it penetrates the wood it usually takes 10 to 12 applications with steelwooling back down to wood to get the finish i like i sent a pm to zr1 and am going to use the finish mix he uses on the one i am doing now mainly i was trying to find out if anyone else has had similar problems and what finish they are using for the lamintes i used to help my mom and my aunt refinish furniture with formby's tung oil and when ever i have done a solid wood stock i always used it with no problems and an excellent finish never have done maple that i can remember but i have done birch and beechwood on 22 rifles but stained them first with walnut oil stain and they turned out fine

has any one had a problem with tung oil yellowing on a laminated stock i have never had this problem with any of the solid wood stocks i have finished over the years but the first and only laminated stock that i have finished has yellowed over the past year and a half i am asuming that it is some sort of reaction with the laminate glue or possibly dies used in it i went to the local hardware and the owner seems to think the same and suggested that i use a waterbased polyacryllic urethane on the next one that i am getting ready to finish i was going to use spar urethane but he said that since it is also oil based that it might react with the laminate glue or dies also and help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

loaded up first 20 rounds this evening ended up using 7mm rem mag brass as the 300 win mag brass would just stop in the die when the shoulder hit and i didnt want to aneal any cases this evening i usually only partial resize my cases just enough for the bolt to close without much resitance this really helps if your headspacing is a little on the long side and in most factory rifles i have also seen other guys with short or tight chambers shorten there dies so they could size cases down enough to get the bolt to close sturck me as different ive never had to try it anyone have any load info for 308 norma mag with alliant powders primarily RL 19 RL22 and RL25 closest data i could find was for normas mrp which is supposed to be the same as RL22 if any one has anything pm me with it i would really appreciate it by the way i am already planning changes for this one ( bolt handle and stock for sure) but if i can get it to shoot good enough i will leave it alone untill spring and use it like it is

picked up a new mauser today 09 argie super clean action original barrel timney trigger chambered in 308 norma mag headspace is just about prefect if anything alittle tight going to put some loads together to shoot tommarrow starting with .308 first as the bore seems tight for .310 or .311 i heard that the bores on theese ran tight but this is the first one ive had with original barrel

im not sure i could get used to a composite trigger gaurd my be a steel bow could be fitted to it just my personal preference horsefly you wont find many berries in presido not even at the grocery store if you can find one been in and out of that area a few times last trip was in 03 been hunting in mexico since then almost went back this year may be next anyway good luck on trip and keep us advised of how you fair

thanks for the replies i am currently putting together a 6mm AI in a boyds pepper laminate lot of glass work action inletting was off i had about a 1/8 gap on the left side of action and the barrel channel is slightly of center to the right all fixable but a pain i would like to build a 260 rem or another 7x57 with a syn stock and stainless #1 contour barrel with say a compact 6x in light weight rings and bases trying to stay around 6.5# total with floor plate but am planning some heavy material removal on triggergaurd i saw one on another post that gave me the idea to drill alot of 1/2" holes in the magazine box instead of cutting sides out like on the other post i hadnt thought of using a 96 stock and opening it up thats a good idea i believe i will order one and give it a try i can always do a little glass and epoxy work on it and repaint to make it look right rod how thin did the sides of the stock end up around receiver ring after you where finished with yours thanks again james

is there a company producing synthetic stocks for the m48 or 24/47 besides ati i emailed bell and carlson today and am waiting on a reply as to whether or not they intend to manufacture these i was thinking that if enough people where to pester them about production they might do it here is there email address email@bellandcarlson.com i would really like to put together a 24/47 in one of there medalist or classic stocks or at-least one of similar quality but have not been able to locate a manufature of a quality one any ideas or sugestions

i like to call it my organized mess if i put every thing up then i cant find anything

here are the orignal tang profiles and one that i reshaped once you put it back in stock any wood above tang is removed then you can recontour the grip back and down towards the comb hope this helps

i reshaped the rear tang on the action then was able to remove the "hump" of wood on the stock behind the action and trim and open the grip area up giving the stock the appearance of having a higher comb also this was is a 24/47 not sure if your stock might be a little lower to start off with i will try and post some pics of he modified tang so you get a better idea

this is my truck gun its a 24/47 with the original stock modified and a mesquite wood forend tip added and slightly schnabled recontured trigger gaurd and lenghtend the original bolt handle and weld back turned down i also modified the original trigger taking out the first stage and redued trigger pull to 3#s i also move the sling mount back and after milling side down inleted one on the forearm also the only things i used that was not orignal are the low safety and recoil pad wich where left overs from other projects thanks again guys for helping get me straight on posting pics

this is my truck gun its a 24/47 with the original stock modified and a mesquite wood forend tip added and slightly schnabled recontured trigger gaurd and lenghtend the original bolt handle and weld back turned down i also modified the original trigger taking out the first stage and redued trigger pull to 3#s i also move the sling mount back and after milling side down inleted one on the forearm also the only things i used that was not orignal are the low safety and recoil pad wich where left overs from other projects thanks again guys for helping get me straight on posting pics

looks like i might have got it know thanks for he pointers this is the last one i finished 7x57 on 24/47 action matt cerakote finish boyds jrs shaved and trimmed with mesquite wood forend tip i used a dakota bolt handle that i leangthend slightly recontured trigger gaurd and milled off stipper hump

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i have been trying to figure out how to attach pic to a post but all i have been able to do is this s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view&current=DCP_1694.jpg please i need a little help here it has taken me most of two hours just to get this far i think i may need drink or four ttp://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/DCP_1694.jpg still trying....

s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view?t=DCP_1693.jpg i might of firgure out the pics or thi is an accident........... still trying s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view?t=DCP_1693.jpgdeer 1.jpgdeer 1.jpgs226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view&current=DCP_1694.jpg...... still trying i think im getting worse welding bolts on is easier than posting pics still trying i can not seem to get the actual pics to load or is this what its suposed to do need more help please i havent found the green box that says up load yet either i am going to start a new post so i dont crud this one up might even offer a reward to the first one that can get me straight on posting pics

the redfeild one piece for the 98 works fine on the turks i have also used both leupold and burris two piece bases on the 24/47 and 48's i had to drill and tap the front base holes first and then pull the roll pin in the front of my jig and slide the jig forward till the bolt bushing hit the rear of the receiver ring then lock it back down and drill and tap rear holes this work fine although it takes a little longer if your jig has the roll pin in front be sure and drill and tap the front base hole first the roll pin keeps you from drilling and tapping into the bolt lug raceway hope this helps ps i did mill the stripper humps off the 24/47's and 48's before i used the fn two piece bases a buddy of mine uses the two piece bases for the 98 and does not mill the stripper hump off it takes him a little longer to do the rear base but he basicly does it the same way

z1r that is one fine looking 338-06 what stock did you use and did you do the checkering i have used wood that nice on one yet but am planning on a 7X57 and have something looking like yours in mind and just for the record and to keep with this post i have a 8mm-06 reamer and dies i just havent had time to put them to use and my truck/hog gun is an 8x57 i converted and added a mesquite wood schnabled forend i tried to post pic but havent firged it out yet