bapayton

I don't know Rod personally but if he's willing to put out the effort the I say "Thank You Rod!".

I'll also second, third, fourth....whatever it is at this point, the fact that if the co-op is broken down individually it will quickly fall apart. I have only used the co-op a couple of time but all this fussiness over what may come of it has motivated me to finish some projects. I have a K. Kale that's been sitting in my closet for several years, I need to barrel it...unsure on caliber. I also have a Santa Barbara action I need to barrel, for that one I'm thinking 338 Win Mag or having my 338 reamer re-ground to 8mm-338 Win Mag. Not really sure on which way I will go with the reamer. Any input from the group? The reamer needs to be resharpened anyhow so a regrind won't cost that much more. Then I have a couple of barrels I'm going to ream for 30br and two others for 6mm br and 22 br respectively for my Savage 110. I'm looking forward to it cooling off so I can get all this completed!!

Thanks again to everyone in the Co-Op!!

BP

I'm Ok with Rod too.

Can I get in on the article copy PLEASE?

I would like a copy. kjl@macatawa.org

 

Thanks Ken

Just sent an email to Rhineland asking them if the ACP's would work in the WM chamber. Would be sweet if it works out they will but I'm expecting a "for safety reasons we cannot recommend....etc, etc, not that I blame them in any way. We'll see what they say!

Hate to disagree w/ Z as I truly respect his expertise. But . The 45wm's that I have seen [only rhineland and thompson center contender] work really well w/ 45acps..[accurate too] nothing to do w/ the barrel really, it seems that the extractors are plenty robust to hold the case while the firing pin makes em go bang.. However I would strongly recomend against firing any cartridge in a chamber not specifically designed for it... Got that in a magazine someplace... really tho I would not depend on it working as it may not in fact be the normally reliable... MV

How do you set it up in the mill? Do you use any sort of clamp/fixture to hold the receiver in place? I've never used a mill myself so excuse my ignorance. I understand their concept but how do you make it work effectively for you?

Thanks for all the info so far!

Drawfiling the receiver is only a means to remove material that in the end still needs to be polished. Same goes for surface grinding.

 

While a surface grinder is a super machine you can get by with a mill. I do all my "surface grinding" in my mill and then stone it. Is it the best way? Maybe not but it's a heck of a lot more accurate then sand paper, etc.

I've seen Jack's site before. I don't know anything about his "values" but he does incredible work. I'm shure it helps a lot having all the right tools, especially a surface grider. I've been looking for a grinder locally but they seem to be mostly in the Northeast and not so much here in North Texas. I think having a surface grider would make things so much easier not to mention accurate.

PIcture of J Belk draw filing a receiver

 

Another picture of the same

 

Finished shape with engraved bolt handle

J. Belk aka Jack Belk is a great gunsmith.

He makes Randy Ketchum jealous.

Jack sends his work out for engraving.

He works for rich customers.

Personally, I could care less about appearance, every gun is just an engineering project. But Randy is way ahead of me in pesonal wildcat development, 50BMG construction, 20mm build, etc. So I have to show some respect for a guy like Jack that works on gun apearance, and not make fun of him for his sissy values.

I've been looking at their 45 acp and 45 WM myself. I don't know the answer to your question but I'll pose a different one of my own. The rim diameters of the cases (acp and WM) are the same so I wonder if you could shoot the acp stuff in the WM like you do a .38 in a .357? I also like the way the magazine looks on the 45 WM much better. I wonder if you could modify the 45 WM magazine somehow to where it would fit the acp ammo properly? Probably would be a lot of work and not worth the effort.

These are cool looking rifles. I wonder what .45WM is capable of in a rifle length barrel?

Hello Everyone! These are my first "real" project receivers (hopefully the pictures show up). They're not in the greatest of shape but I've been working on them and have made some progress. The receivers were cheap enough $10 each for the Turk 03's and $15 for the K.Kale. They don't have bolts though so that will be an extra expense but I'm not exactly in a hurry anyhow. Outside of the cosmetics they seem fine. There is no noticeable twisting and the locking lug area looks perfect. I put them in a mandrel and faced off the front receiver ring. They are all accurate to within .001 off the threads. Now I just hope the threads were cut somewhat accurately.

At this point I need to upgrade my files and get some stones. The problem is I don't know what kind of stones to get. I've read about people using them but nobody seems to go into much detail on what type is best for a specific application. What I want to do is finish off the receivers after filing with a nice smooth surface that's good enough for duracoat application. I also want to polish out the roughness in the bolt raceways so if anyone has ideas for that area I'd really appreciate it.

The next question I have is about heat treating. I don't want to get into the debate about whether the Turks are hard enough but what I would like to know is if anyone ever found a place to re-heat treat receivers? I found this place on the web (http://www.mayfoundry.com/heat.htm) and some references to them treating guns but haven't emailed them yet to find out. If they are cheap enough I might send all 3 off and have them treated. I remember from the old forum someone mentioned a sort of "group buy" heat treat but don't think anything became of it.

Guess that's all my questions for now.

Take care, Brad

Great question and one I had questions about myself. I have 2- 1903/38's (actually one is a 1937, the other 1939) and 1 K.Kale 1944. These are my first 3 sporter projects and it's exciting to plan out the process. Anyhow, in turning off the front ring on all 3 I can tell you the K.Kale is much harder than the 03/38's at least as far as lathe cutting effort goes. Maybe the lug area of the 03/38's have been heat treated where the k.kale is treated throughout but for my money (and life expectancy) I will not put a high pressure round in the 03/38's. I'm going to turn one into a 7.62x39 using the GunPartsCorp kit ($95 for barrel and parts), the other will probably be 7x57 with the K.Kale being a 6.5x55 since I already have a barrel in that caliber. I know that doesn't answer all of your questions but maybe it will help.

I am interested in who responds to the "rethread mauser to remington threads" part. Should be an interesting topic.

I was re reading the small ring magnums thread and got another idea.

There was mention of re-taping them to the large ring pattern.

 

One of the appeals of the Turksih actions was the availability of both good and

inexpensive Remmington barrels that could be rethreaded to fit the Turk small

ring thread pattern. In standard calibers that is fine but when you start to talk

about doing that with a magnum caliber everyone (myself included) gets very

nervous about such thin walls as the first layer around a magnum cartridge.

 

My thought was rather than re-tap the action to a large ring pattern, re-tap it

to the Remington pattern. Then the barrels don't need rethreaded, just faced off.

 

lets leave economics out of the discussion.

FYI taper tap $40, bottom tap $50 total $90.

 

Before doing anything else I want to ask this question, is the metalurgy of a

K Kale up to building a magnum on, is it truly as good as any LR action?

Is the metalurgy of an 03 Turk up to building a short magnum on?

 

I've got actions and barrels and an urge to get them together, if it's a safe thing

to do. I'm talking 7MM Rem mag and 300 Win mag and a 300 SAUM Rem mag.

 

Tinker

You know I was thinking about that myself (cutting flutes in a screw). I could grind it to fit in a regular tap handle to make it look somewhat professional. Was just reading up on Kasenit. I'd never heard of it before but seems like interesting stuff. There are a couple of other things I'll need to re-harden too so a can of that might be just the ticket.

bapayton,

 

If you are just chasing the threads, you might be be able to make a chaser out of an old action screw with good threads. I read once where you can cut the flutes with a dremel stone, and then harden the screw by quenching in water or by using Kasenit.

Horsefly- Thanks a lot for the offer, which I will take you up on if you have it. I only need it for a couple of holes and could return it asap. I have an uncle who works for American Airlines in their fabrication shop so he might be able to get me one somehow, maybe even "free". That same uncle has a nice lathe and milling machine so I could try to make a tap. Anyone know some references to machining a tap? I think the hardest part would be heat treating but could be wrong.

The experience and knowing what you can do and what you can't far out way the price of a store bought product. Besides one day I might actually have a use for this knowledge, when a tool isn't available.

-Don

I've had good success with tap extractors, but you're right a punch on a brittle tap is much easier.

-Don

$20 for such a small tap? That's crazy! Wonder if there's a metric equivalent we could find for cheaper or simply another source?

Brownnells item # 748-001-422

Brian

Hey Everyone!

I was wondering if anyone knows what size tap I need for the trigger guard screws on my 24/47.

Thanks for the help, Brad