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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Rojelio

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Posts posted by Rojelio

  1. Just curious. Have you shot it since removing it from the issue stock? Assuming you free floated the barrel just curious if you saw much of an improvement it its accuracy. The stock looks pretty good, have you used water to see the grain?

    No, haven't shot it at all. It came as a barreled action. I have wetted small areas and the stock does have some grain and slight fiddle if you look at it at the right angle. It's not going to be a show stopper for sure. I'm debating on whether or not to stain it a little darker before applying finish. I'll experiment with some of the pieces I cut off and see what works best.

     

    Roger

  2. I had an older one of these until it was stolen from a jobsite. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=lincoln+225&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12132541439096434361&sa=X&ei=LUtRTpftE6PiiALogpGYAQ&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAA

     

    There are better machinesw out there but the old Tombstone is still a standard fixture in many shops.

     

    Yep, that's just like the one I replaced. For down and dirty those are hard to beat. Funny thing is mine was stolen, too. I had been thinking about replacing it with an AC/DC already so that just sped up the process.

     

    Roger

  3. FC, I recently replaced my AC only lincoln welder with a lincoln AC/DC. It's like a difference between night and day welding gun parts.

     

    For bolt handles, I use a lincoln rod 3/32 6013 set at 75 amp positive ground DC. It welds smooth with little to no splatter. With a heat sinc and heat control paste and a wet rag wrapped around the recoil lugs, no damage is done to the bolt. Just cool after each pass.

     

    I'm sure a tig would be a lot better for 3 times the cost. But, you also have to consider the learning curve with a tig.

     

    Anyway, that's my opinion. I say go for the AC/DC. You won't regret it.

     

    Roger

  4. nice build so far.

    are you going to leave the rear sight as is? one of the things i've considered doing is cutting the rear sight off the sleeve then turning the sleeve upside down on the barrel to smooth out the profile of the rifle without leaving gaps in a already inletted stock.

     

    Yes, that was the problem I was having. the stock was already inletted for the military barrel profile and also the bluing was still in mint condition. I hated to take the rear sight off and have to deal with rebluing.

     

    My yugotine sporter still has the military sight and after the scope is mounted, it doesn't stand out so much.

     

    I think I'll leave it alone for now,and, if I decide I can't live with it, I'll change it later.

     

    Roger

  5. I got this barreled action from AIM a couple of years ago. It's in mint condition and I've been saving it for a sporter project. So far I've got the stock shaped and fitted. Glass bedded the barreled action. Fitted a decelerator pad and a Brownell's steel grip cap. Welded on a Talley bolt handle and drilled and tapped for Leupold 2pc. bases. I haven't decided what I want to do for a safety, yet. I got the stock from GAG. It's myrtle and started out as an oberndorf classic. Still have to finish sanding and apply finish on the stock.

    Roger

    image012412.jpg

  6. Looks great. Please explain how your "action puller" is set up. I love big bores. I had a Marlin 1895 in 45-70. I would load it hot (for 45-70) it was always a head turner at the range. I may have to look for another action for a big bore build.

    Ralph

     

    Ralph, here is a picture of my action puller. It's made a little different that lemski's, but the same basic design.

     

    Roger

     

    MVC-puller.jpg

    MVC-puller1.jpg

  7. Another nice "Texas Rifle" :)

     

    What's the story with the octogon barrel in the last photo?

     

    Ken, I cut that barrel from a blank. It's half octagon half round. I threaded and chambered it for a martini I'm building in 33 winchester. Just another wild azzed idea I'm always getting. Maybe one day they'll come up with a cure for that. :blink:

  8. very nice rifle.

    how thick is the floorplate? is there enough meat to smooth out the floorplate & remove the antelope head

     

    Jim, the floorplate is kinda thin, but, the decorations are raised so it probably could be filed off.

     

    Brenden, here's a pic of the floorplate.

     

    Image009012.jpg

  9. Brenden, the P.A.W.S. bottom metal is the one sold by Brownell's that is cast aluminum and has the antelope head on the floorplate. Other places may sell them, too. I'm not sure. They're about the cheapest thing on the market, but, they work fine. Just kinda cheesy. That's the second one that I've used and no issues with either one other than having to countersink the rear action screwhead hole a little deeper.

     

    Roger

  10. It's about time (I've been preoccupied).I finished putting this one together today. I just have to mount a scope and test fire for accuracy. This one is a college graduatiion present for a friend. He wanted a 270 win.

     

    Components used are an Israli k98 action (started life as a dot czech rifle), a #2 Douglas stainless barrel. Butler Creek stock, Timney featherweight deluxe trigger,Talley bolt handle, and a P.A.W S. bottom metal (I know :( ).

     

    Gun Koted the action, and painted the stock krylon moss and black webbing.

     

    Here's a couple of pics. Roger

     

    MVC-003F.jpg

     

    MVC-005F.jpg

  11. Darin, I recommend shooting it before you change barrels. I went through the same thing you did. I got mine from SOG and was going to send it back. After I called and talked to them, they convinced me that this was normal.

     

    Anyway, after a range trip, I decided to keep it. It was fairly accurate (and I'm not a great pistol shot). After you shoot it, look down the bore. You will be able to see rotational lines left by the bullets. It actually does spin the bullet.

     

    I think it's a great little pistol. I keep mine loaded for home defense.

     

    Roger

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