Rojelio

Nice job! Looks like somebody likes 7 mags. as much as I do. My first one I used a Winchester P14 Enfield action and a stainless Sako 7mm Rem. mag takeoff barrel. I hunted with that gun for the last 2 years and it has accounted for several hogs, deer, and antelope. I'll probably break in the Turkington next year. It shoots a hair better than the Enfield and is about 3/4 lb. lighter.

How did you go about joining the winchester and remington barrels to the 1908s. Did you just tighted against the inner torque ring? I used a bushing on the Enfield which was frowned upon, but, has been holding up fine.

Anyway, nice job.

Roger

It held up through another range trip. The barrel doesn't seem to be picky at all. This bullet was a Midway second. I looks like a Sierra. it shoots consistantly under an inch. Here is the best group.

I had a chainsaw that started doing the same thing after a nephew borrowed it. It would slow down until it died and the piston would be froze. I'd have to take the sparkplug out and pour a little oil in the cylinder to free it up. I got tired of messing with it and just bought a new one.

You might PM Weaver. He used to work on small engines as a sideline. He might be able to help you figure it out.

Three shots touching, that's a heck of a group! What distance?

 

Nice rifle too, I like the effect you achieved on the stock and love the bolt handle.

100 yds.

Leupold FN bases and Leupold Medium rings. Clears with room to spare. Just weld it on low enough and no problem. Also, I stay away from scopes with European ocular lenses. Stick with Leupold, Weaver classics, and in this case a Japanese Tasco. Sometimes 1/4" difference in ocular diameter. That's a lot when you're trying to get a bolt handle to clear.

I got a little carried away with the webbing paint. I figured if a little was good, a lot would be better. Oh well, it is what it is. The next one will be better. The barrel appears to be a winner. It renewed my faith in Rem. takeoffs. First range session went without a hitch. Everything worked as planned. No problems with the small ring barrel.

I'll put some more rounds through it in another week or so.

Ken, I think you ought to go ahead with your 300 mag project. I don't see a problem.

Here's a pic.

As you know I'm working on my Mauser project. And the other night I was watching a movie and noticed the rifle the "hero" was sporting looked like a Mauser. It has a spoon handle on the bolt and a double set/hair trigger. Very similar to the picture I attached, a very beautiful rifle.

 

The trigger and finger guard I can't find anywhere. Know of a place I can get one? Do you think this would be good or should I just stick with a single trigger?

 

I've never used a double trigger before so I wanted to ask the group what your thoughts are compared to something like a Timney?

rivitir, my advice would be if you are building this as a hunting rifle, then, forget the DST. If you are building a target rifle, a DST would be a neat addition, but, not necessary. Timney makes a nice trigger and way less expensive and easier to install.

Looks great.

I've been sitting on a stainless Rem take-off in .300 winmag for several years.

a few years ago there were several threads about building magnum rifles on sr shank turks.

 

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1580

I'll get Weaver to shoot it first . No, really, I'll let you know how it works out.

Ken, do those receivers still have to be heat treated?

Is that a k-kale receiver?

Yes with a Czech bolt.

I went to the second hand store ( Goodwill ) and got a few old lace table cloths.

You can throw the table cloth over the stock in different directions and spray through the table cloth.

I got cloths with different patterns. I was thinking of using a different pattern for different colors

( brown, gray, light / dark green, black ).

 

Tinker

Thanks Tinker, that's a good idea. I located some of the Krylon webbing paint, though. I'll try to get some of that first.

http://www.misterart.com/crafts/decorative-painting/faux-finishing/krylon-webbing-spray-faux-finish.html

Roger

Good looking gun. Now for a list of questions...is the barrel SS? and what kind of finish do you have on the rest, kinda looks like parkerizing...Bolt looks very good as well, another example of your excellent forging jobs/shaping to the teardrop look? Very nice work. Should make a nice long range hog knocker. Well done!

 

Brenden

Barrel is a SS Rem. new takeoff, Stock is a Butler Creek, GPC bottom metal that I bought a long time ago and didn't like so I didn't use it till now. Finish on the action is Gun Kote baked on finish. Supposed to be stainless color, but, as you can see, turned out a little darker. The bolt handle is actually a handle that I had cut off of an 03 Turk. I like the Oberndorf shaped knob, so I reused the handle. The action is glassed in and the barrel is free floated. I glassed in two sections of aluminum arrow shaft into the barrel channel to stiffen it up. I reshaped the stock a little and replaced the rock hard recoil pad with a decelerator and added a Timney featherweight deluxe trigger. Other than that, I think it's ready (besides the spider web paint).

I have no idea why it did that. It was supposed to be 3 different pictures. I'll try again.

I managed to throw one together before I get back to work on my shop. I still need to mount a scope and go shoot it. I want to do the spider web treatment on this stock. Does anyone know where to get the webbing spray paint. I think Krylon makes it, I just don't know where to get it. The stock is OD green (actually moss it's the closest I could find).

Here is a few pics.

Do you reload for your Yugotine? If so, what bullets do you use?

Yep, Hornady 150 gr. SP (.312), Frontier brass, IMR 4064 45.0 gr., CCI 200 primer

ave. velocity 2750 fps.

This load is extremely accurate in the Yugotine.

My head is starting to hurt . I would just use .311-.312 diameter bullets in my Mosin Nagant and forget about it.

Great buy!!!! Congratulations, you did good.

I think the metric conversion of .311 would be 7.7 mm like the Jap round.

From my machinist reference book:

.303"=7.7mm (actually 7.6962) = bore size

.312"=7.9248 = groove size

I think the Russian's measurements were a little off when they called it a 7.62.

With the 8mm mauser (JS) the bore size was .312" (7.92mm) and the groove size was.323" (8.2042mm)

The original 8mm mauser groove was .318" or 8.0772mm

I think the metric conversion of .311 would be 7.7 mm like the Jap round.

One for me.

$160 says they are in good condition.

Good condition from SOG means junk bores and junk stocks and hopefully a good action. I ordered two of the scrubbed ones and had to send one back the pitting was so bad.

Also, there will be no finish left on the metal.

It cost me $15.00 to send the one back (no refund on return shipping)so I could have upped the grade to start with. Still got one back with a junk bore, junk stock, no finish, but, at least, no pitting.

So just count on getting a good action out of the deal.

Hope thes helps you decide.

Roger

PS: These were the European vz24s not the South American.

You should have bought a lottery ticket .

Roger

Didn't I meet the one holding the head while we were making sausage?

 

Congrats to them both and it was good seeing you again.

 

-Mike

Hi Mike, it was good seeing you again, too. We need to do it more often.

Yes, he's the one I had with me that day along with his sister.

I enjoy spending time with my grandkids. I get to spend more time with them than I did with my own kids when they were growing up because of working long hours.

Have a good day and I hope you're not freezing too bad up in Denver.

Roger

Thanks guys, it makes me proud because I know that I have passed on my hunting heritage to my sons and now to my grandsons and after I'm gone, a little bit of me will live on.

It's a good feeling.

Roger

Jeff, if you're still using the barrel sights, I suggest that you set it back one full turn (.083) so that your sights will index properly. Then recut your chamber. If your barrel has no sights or markings that you want to line back up then just set it back enough to headspace properly.

Roger