Rojelio

Hi Bob, I've never messed with a wood lathe, but, I've found them to be very interesting. Is yours an antique? That sounds like a fun project ,too.

Hey, that looks like my bathtub. Rojelio

I'm building a new shop for my gunwork. I need to get my lathe and milling machine out of the garage. I did all the work myself (build the forms, rough in the plumbing, and tie the steel) except finish the slab. I hired a crew to pour it and finish it. This will be a pay as you go project (and when I can get time and stand the heat) so it will take me most of a year probably. So far I've got $1876 dollars in the slab and I've got the roof trusses ordered. That's another $726.00. My gun work will be put on hold for a while. Here's a pic of the slab. It's 24 ft. x 32 ft. Rojelio

Hi Z, actually I'm assuming 99% thread contact and the other 1% is epoxy . Really, I'm not trying to promote this practice. I just threw it out there because I've had success with it. I don't have any hard evidence of this practice ever having caused a failure. I do, however, have examples (albeit few and doesn't prove anything) that it has worked. It's always best to start out with a fresh, new barrel if you can afford one. So, here's my warning. Do it at your own risk. Rojelio

tinkerfive, I'm not recommending that anyone do what I do and as I stated before, it's not the preferred method. However, if you add up the wall thickness of the barrel and the bushing, you get the standard thickness of .3125 (the o.d. of an enfield is 1.125). Like I said before, it's a tight fitting bushing epoxied in place. It's not as if there is air surrounding the .125 wall thickness of the barrel. So far, I have run into no problems doing this. I might add that this is not my invention. It's been done before. Rojelio

tinkerfive, the way I do it is make my own bushings. I drill the bushing and bore it out to .750 id then inside thread at 16 tpi. I then turn the barrel shank down to .800 and thread 16 tpi until I get a tight threaded fit of the bushing. Then I epoxy the bushing onto the barrel and tighten. After that sets up you can thread the outside of the bushing for whatever action you want. It never occured to me to use a threaded barrel shank to make a bushing. I don't know why it wouldn't work. Rojelio

AzRedneck, I've done one for a LR mauser using a threaded bushing in 270. So far it's holding up fine. I've also installed a Sako barrel on a P14 Enfield in 7 mag using a threaded bushing. I used the 7 mag last hunting season and took several head of game. It worked perfect. I admit, it's not the preferred method, but, sometimes you have to make do with what you have. Rojelio

Good job Brenden, now get busy on the next one! Rojelio

Mike, how is the '36 Mex an improvement over the 1910's? Is it made out of better steel or have better heat treatment? Or is it the better gas venting? I have some of both and actually prefer the 1910's. They seem to be a little tighter/smoother actions than the 36's. It may just be the examples that I have. Just wondering. Rojelio

Yep, that one looks like the first one to me. Rojelio

I finally got around to shooting it yesterday.It did pretty good for the first loads. I'm going to try and work up to 2800 with the Sierre 175s and see how it does. I had an old steel tube 3-9 Weaver on it and it was giving me fits. I finally got the windage close on the last group with 170gr Speers. Rojelio

Let us know how it works. It looks good. Rojelio

Thanks Mike, I did the 8mm-06 because Weaver had the reamer. And also because I've never had one. It'll be fun to play with. I'm gonna scope it and work up loads, then I might remove the scope and sight in the open sights and use it like that. It handles real well as is. There might be a hog in it's future.

rustvyper, I filed the notch in my Brownells forging blocks deeper with a tattail file so the bolt handle will be lower. I bend it all the way down to 90 deg. and cool it down. Then I heat it again at the base of the root and bend it out a little. After that, I chuck it up in the lathe and dress up both sides of the root where it has flared. (this can be done with files) Then take a 2" diameter stone in the drill press and grind a relief at the base for scope clearance. On this one I teardropped the round knob. Other than that, some judicious filing and sanding. Of course use heat sinc and heat control paste. Rojelio PS Yes it's a military stepped barrel. Here's a closeup of the handle.

Rear sight I think is a Remington. It was in my parts box so I used it. It fit the contour of the barrel perfect. Front sight is a Williams. Rojelio

I'm about finished with my 8mm-06 project. Just waiting on a front sling swivel stud. Parts are Brazilian 08/34 action, Persian barrel, and Turk stock that I got from Weaver. I forged the bolt handle, and drilled and tapped it for a scope, and installed one of those left sided safeties that Sporter Express sells. Now I need to scope it and load up some ammo and go to the range. Rojelio

Nice find!

What I was trying to say is if you took a Mexican receiver and stuck an 03 Turk bolt in it, you will see that the nose of the bolt protrudes a little past the "C" ring (primary torque shoulder). As Don said, if you were rebarreling, you could counterbore the barrel like a remington and it will work. However, if the Mex already has a barrel on it, the Turk bolt will not close as you were experiencing. Rojelio

Actually, they use the same bolt. The only difference is the primary torque shoulder inside the receiver is open on both sides. Not just where the extractor goes through. It's not a big deal. I've just never seen it on a military mauser. Rojelio

rustvyper, how many of those belgium actions did you get? I just noticed on the two that I got that they have "H" rings instead of "C" rings. I've never seen military mausers that had "H" rings. I thought FN started that like in the 50s. Rojelio

That would be a 1910 mexican mauser. I think a 257 R would be just about ideal for your action. Rojelio

The early bird gets the worm (or mauser). I just noticed today that 3 of my bolts don't have guide ribs. I've had one of them before and it seemed to work fine. One of them late war speed machining things I guess. The finish is fine on them just no guide rib. Rojelio

Yes, the FNs have the star of David Israeli crest and the Czechs have either dot or dou depending on which factory they were made. They all have a big 7.62 stamped on the front of the receiver ring about 3/8th of an inch tall and 1/2 inch wide. A base will mostly cover it up. My FNs were a little better machined than the Czechs, but, the Czechs all had 1945 dates. I'm not worried about the hardness of the steel as none exibited setback after no telling how many rounds of 7.62 nato ammo down the tube. Rojelio

rustvyper, these were the fair incomplete ones for 69.87 apiece. With the free one, it knocked the price down to 58 dollars apiece shipped. I was very pleased with mine. Rojelio