robdog

I am building a CETME on a CIA receiver right now. I wasnt to spec when I got it so I am having to tweak the receiver as I am building it. I will post some pics when I finish it up. I have the trunnion welded in so far and am working on it slowly, clod weather here makes it hard to get in the shop and work with metal.

Anyone know where I can get a couple Imbel receivers at a decent price?

Lucky you. I live in NC and we had a very warm and wet Fall and winter so far. The deer would walk at night and food was very plentiful so they wouldnt even touch my corn or salt licks. Got 1 big doe for the season and spent alot of wasted time in the stand.

I am so much of a gun nut that all my friends and family come to me for advice and questions related to firearms.

I store mine in cheap cosmo grease and zip lock bags. I have many kits I have picked up over the years and havent gotten around to building yet. Grease works the best, do a search on google for surplus cosmo and by some.

DANG! I miss out on all the good stuff. My sales rep sucks! I never even got the flyer.

Your ex sounds like she was a real winner. There is someone for everyone out there, sounds like hers is a nut job who will smack her around. Good riddance to bad rubbish!

I bet it had one hell of a kick! Looks like a banana peel, lol.

The US already has done this. It is very simple for your ISP to monitor what sites you go to and observe your email and IM. The only way to stop the viewing of emails is to set up encryption on your end and decryption on the receivers end. It would be very difficult for them to get into your PC HDD.

Temp hit +3 yesterday and it's already +6 this morning

Get out the suntan lotion!

guy I work with just sold me a yugo captured m98 that his dad had tried to sporterize. The action has been miss-drilled & tapped, but he didn't drill all the way through. The charging hump has been partially ground off. & best of all there's a brand new 25-06 barrel fitted & headspaced (I checked - apparently he had an actual gunsmith do that part). Also came with a badly welded on sporter bolt handle. I actually knocked it off with a rubber mallet! But the bolt itself is good & I'll get that done right once I get the bolt cleaned up.

No trigger group or bottom metal, but he did give me the orginal stock which I'll flip on ebay. Total cost? -$45!!!!! When I asked him how much he wanted he named the price & I just goggled. He said, "too much?" & I said "SOLD!"

I've never really wanted a 25-06, but guess I'll have one now.

I plan to tig the holes shut that the guy drilled then re-D&T. Finish the grind job on the charging hump & install a nice bold trigger with side safety, & put a commercial shroud in place of the old one...oh yeah, the safety was gone. He swore he had it, but couldn't find it so I said no big deal. Then I think I'll put it in one of the choate blind bottom stocks & duracoat the metal a nice stainless steel. See how she turns out.

Shoot I woulda bought the barrel alone for $45! Brand new, only fired once by the GS who installed it.

Question, I've never D&T'd a reciever that's had bad holes tigged shut, or had the barrel already installed. Do I need a plug tap to do the threads? Anyway, I'm psyched about this deal. I reckon I can knock most of this out on a saturday once I get the holes tigged.

EXCELLENT BUY!

I am brand new to this forum and new to the mauser scene. I was given an old mauser, and am kind of interested in using the action in a custom gun. However, not knowing much about this particular rifle, I thought it might be wise to seek some advice before tearing into the action. Here are some of the specs:

 

- starting with the obvious, the left side of the receiver is stamped "Mod. 98";

- on that same side, more towards the barrel, there is a very small Nazi eagle holding the swastika and a parts stamp ("1104" with what looks like a "g" just below it);

- on top of the receiver towards the barrel there is another eagle holding a swastika and the number "234" under it, below that in larger letters in "duv", and then an inch below that is the number "42". All parts have matching numbers.

 

The stock was cut off just above the collar that holds the gun strap. The action appears to be in great shape and is super smooth. Should I modify this rifle or is there some reason you would advise against it. Thanks in advance for your help.

If the weapon in question has no import markings it could be a rare find. Alot of Vet bring backs from WW2. Check under the front of the barrel for an import stamp. K98 stocks are cheap and plentiful right now. You could find the correct type stock very easy online. IE, cupped, flat, Hardwood or laminate....

Send in some pictures for US to look at and I can tell you what it needs. If all else fails I am sure you could trade if for a Sporter or sell it here for cash.

I would go with the build your own. This way you can pick and choose the items you want and not pay for stuff you dont want.

I have a kit I picked up from them about 3 years ago. Was in like new condition. I built mine off a flat from akbuilder.com Curtis has the best flats around. I jerry rigged the left side selector to make it look real. It is a great addition to the collection.

shave your head bald and see how that works. That is what all the guys I work with have done.

That has go to be the cleanist machine shop I have ever seen Riceone. Does your wife clean that for you?

Why wouldn't a few of the local good ole boys get with the wack-o and have an understanding that he needs to move on,or be a resident in the cemetery.Jerry

HAHAHAHA

I suggest making an eletric cleaner with a rod down the barrel to clean it out. It will get all that copper fouling out quick.

Electric bore cleaner - All you need is an electrode, a power supply and some wires and alligator clips. The electrode can be a coat hanger (make sure it is free of any varnish) or a store-bought thin wire rod. Use some heat-shrink tubing at the bottom of the rod and along its length in various places to prevent the rod from contacting the gun at any point in the barrel. (A short Circuit) The power supply consists of 2 `C' cell batteries simply duct-taped together. There is no need for any fancy battery holders. Use only the 2 `C' cells! There is no need for more power than this! The Positive power supply lead is attached to a good contact point of the rifle such as the rear sight. The Negative lead goes to the top of the electrode. Stand the gun upright and lock it into this position. Plug the chamber end of the gun...This can be done by using a fired shell wrapped with some Teflon tape or an automotive tire Valve stem trimmed to fit snugly. Tie a rag around the muzzle end of the barrel to prevent spills!..you can also wrap a layer of duct-tape around the muzzle so you can overfill the bore slightly without it leaking. The barrel is filled with ``Household Ammonia"...You will find this at the grocery store or wherever your wife buys household cleaners...The strength is usually around 10 - 20%, you do not any stronger than that. Don't dilute it, add any other agents to it or substitute anything else for it. Once the bore is filled with ammonia, connect the wires and let the device do its job for ONE HOUR. Keep a close eye on it as the ammonia will foam quite a bit making top-ups needed quite often. After the hour, the gun will need to be thoroughly cleaned with standard bore cleaners and oiled to prevent rust. So what does this thing do and when do you use it? This device is using the actions as a chrome plating shop does but in reverse. The ammonia lifts copper and the electrode attracts it like a magnet. You will see the electrode is quite a mess at the end of an hours use. Just wipe off the deposits though and its ready to use again. This thing is not meant to be used as a regular cleaning tool...There is no need for it after a days shooting inmost cases. It is meant to be used on guns that have not had a proper cleaning in many years...The ones that you can run a patch up and down all day and they still come out dirty! Follow the design and instructions exactly, Use it for what it is and it will save you hours of cleaning time. Try and overpower it, forget that you left it on, or misuse it it any way and you might end up with damage...I have yet to hear of any damage from this when used as I state here.

I call BS on the AR taking down a Polar Bear.

The best thing to do is just shut the power off from the street. That leeps em out for good!

My father in law and I made up a couple tools this past weekend. I used the descriptions and dimensions from the Brownells catalog. A barrel vise and a receiver wrench. Pretty simple stuff.

I will post some pics later.

The receiver wrench is just a couple of 3/4" x 3" cold rolled stock with 1.5" holes in it. I then cut the holes near the end so it would slip on the receiver. drilled 3/8" holes in the edges and tapped them I then welded the two 3/4" pieces together for added strength. I put a 3/8"x3x3 peice on top with a handle welded on and bolted the top to the bottom.

The barrel vise is 3"x6"x6" cold rolled. Drilled a 1.5" hole in the middle. Split the stock down the middle of the hole. drilled and tapped holes on the outside to hold it together. I made a 1.5" o.d. peice of aluminum for the shim with a 1" hole in the middle. I then cut a gap 1/16" on one side to crush fit.

Tested it yesterday on a k98k. put a 4 foot cheater bar on the wrench and the barrel broke free. no marring or galling.

I ended up drilling the screw out. Got the front and rear sites off. Waiting on some parts to come in before I move forward anymore.