tackleberry

whe you shoot are resting on the barrel? afree floated barrel should be supported under the stock..it can make a huge difference if you happen to rest on the barell...

checking it with the extractor in place will work as long as you engage the extractor onto the headspace gage. I also cut one too deep once when i got over vigorous right near the end, and I do not have a lathe, so yep, had to use another barrel. I was able to sell the other one on Ebay.

I highly recommend Brownells Oxpho blue (creme)

It is very forgiving of oils on the metal, although I try to clean the metal very well with lacquer thinner or alcohol.

I apply with 5-0 steel wool.....and keep applying it over and over until I get the depth I want.

Then the special trick...find some of those old brown handtowels you used to get in school...the really rough paper ones.

When you get the blue the depth you want, spray oil on the metal and rub down the metal with the paper towels.. Brilliant!!!

if you are touching up a restoration, the above will do. A complete reblue will work good too. The 5-0 steel wool will hlp you get and even coatt hat blends together.

This technique will also work with other brands of blueing, but I like the creme blueing since It doesnt run.

for any of you who did buy some of those SOG 71/84's, I am trying to complete one now. I have everything except the forward barrel band, wedge and keep screw. I could use the forward end of a stock too (from the second band forward)..

contact me at dberry1052@aol.com if you can help me out

Dave

I used to be a big fan of 308 Norma but now days what Norma charges for brass or loaded ammo is just a rip-off. The retail price of loaded 308 Norma is over a hundred per box after sales tax is added. The 338/30 wildcat often interchangable with 308 Norma in some rifles might be a better and certainly lower cost alternative. I don't mind paying a little more, Norma makes excellent ammo but over a hundred per box is simply taking advantage of those that don't roll their own. Norma can kiss my donkey!!!

 

Below is a picture of factory 338 Winnie and 308 Norma. Neck the 338 down to .308 and you have a nearly identical cartridge.

 

My undersanding is that you can resize 7mm Mag brass to use as .308 Norma Mag..I have tried it, it works.I have .308 Norma Mag dies and ran a 7mm Mag case through. The first one, I split the case neck, but then I extra lubricated the neck inside and out and it went through just fine. I think any other differences will fireform out. Neck length may have to be adjusted later..

amazing how much once fired 7MM brass is left at the range. I now have 40 rounds and building. I am planning a Magnum myself on either (1) Enfield Model 1914 action, or (2) a 1903 Springfield action

Dave

Sweet rifle!!!!! I built one this summer. If you want to read something illuminating, read the Chuck Hawks comparison of the .338-06 and the .35 Whelen.. This is an astounding cartridge really and so affordable in alot of ways: you can built it on a standard Mauser Action, use a standard 98 k Bolt, and the only concessionI did was use a magazine which gave me a full 3.4.inches in the well. I applaud the work you did, real pretty stock work there. I did mine from rough Boyd's stock. Also what you see is all cold blueing str8 from Brownell's (except for the triggerguard). I understand there is such a thing as a 180 grain bullet for .338, but I cannot locate any. I did make a mistake by not putting a bigger and better recoil pad on my rifle.

Dave

 

 

Well, I like it. I went with the std .338-06. No need to fuss with fireforming etc. It shoots the Hornady 225's that I have a ton of into tiny little groups. Doesn't leave anything to be desired.

.308 Norma Mag..great caliber...does dang near everything a 300 Win Mag will do but will do it in a 30-06 length action...bolt face will have to be opened a little and a commercial magazine that gives you a full 3.4 inches, but otherwise, it'll all fit. I believe also you can take a .30-06 barrel and ream it to .308 Norma Mag.

Dave

ok, time to play "fill that gap"! here is a list of actions with the caliber to be used with each. You'll notice the Persian M98/29 at the bottom of the list does not have a caliber listed. That's the little guy i need help with.

 

30/06 Wapiti - FINISHED & DRAWN BLOOD

1943 JP Sauer & Son - B&C painted stock

 

6mm rem Speedgoat - ON THE BENCH IN PROGRESS

M24/47 - walnut stock

 

35 whelen bullwinkle

BNZ 43 - laminated stock

 

7mm Express smokey (.280 Rem)

k.kale turk Hogue plastic stock

 

6.5 swede Full Curl

96 swede ultra light - possible maple stock/blind mag

 

7x57 Venado Cola Blanca

93 spanish - Traditional Open sights

 

7x57 mule deer mayhem

Steyr 1912 (twisted) or 98/22 - wood stock

 

?? Caliber

Persian 98/29

 

Also take note, I have 3 .270's, a 7mm Rem Mag, a .300 RUM, 8mm Mauser, .22/250's, .308 (lever action) and various other calibers in other firearms. here is a short list of calibers I may be thinking of. What am I missing?

 

.308 short case

7mm/08 short case

.260 win twin to 6.5x55

6.5/06 handload only

.338/06 have .30/06 & .35 Whelen

8mm/06 twin to 30/06

.257 bob Close to 7x57

.25/06 have 6mm rem and .270 - too close?

.284 mod feed rails/bolt face

8x57 twin to 30/06

.264 mod feed rails/bolt face - Twin to 6.5x55

 

Some of this work I am hesitant to do myself (feed rails and bolt face) so the 2 mag calibers (or others you might suggest) would require $$ smith visit. I am thinking about loaded ammo or component availability, which is why I have shied away from some of the metric calibers. care to convince me otherwise? =)

Tackleberry,

Welcome to the forum, looks like we're going to have to start taking muster around here, I'm retired USN myself, Corpsman.

Nice work! That webbing came out great! Was that a first time result with that product, or did you have to experiment?

 

Hugh

I heard about it in the H+R handi rifle forum over at Graybeards...its real easy to do, and pretty forgiving. IT's just a base coat of what ever color you want, then spray on the webbing in sort of a random way, either sparse or heavier...the more you spray the more the openings get filled. Then I top coat it with satin Poly. Check out these other photos...

In photobucket, there is a box (third one down) under your picture. Place your curser in it and left click. this copies the proper coding to allow you to simply hit "control + V" and paste the code into a message.

 

It should look like this except the start and end brackets will be these [] instead of {}.

 

{img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/78z1r/DSC00285.jpg[/img}

Great looking .338-06 there...I used a Husquvarna 98 long action for mine, because it was easy to find a A&B barrel for it without threading a barrel blank. I did swap out the triggerguard on mine to get a full 3.4 inch magazne so I would not have to worry so much about bullet seating. Mine feeds great, shoots great and kicks like a mule, and I will be adding a little better recoil pad on it then Boyd's supplies. I'm really happy with the way mine turned out and we both have a lot of gun which we can shoot certainly cheaper than a belted magnum, when in fact what we have is pretty much a magnum

Dave

/Ting that I need, I will handle the smaller details myself. If you've messed with Enfields, what was your experience and what advice could you share?

Thanks!

Jason

Jason, I'd be interested in any thing you find out. I have a P14 action and bolt that was contoured (somewhat) and drilled for mounts by J&G in Arizona. I have a long magazine for it and a straightened guard also for it. I need to recontour the rear receiver (it's flat now with a "hole", which I may or may not need to fill. My plan is to barrel it in .30-06 if I can find a decent barrel. Then, rechamber it to .308 Norma Mag (basically .30-338 magnum)(I already have the finisher reamer) . My understanding is that this cartridge is about the same length as the .30-06 and that it was common in the 50's (before Winchester introduced the .300 Win Mag) for people to ream their .30-06 chambers for .308 Norma Mag. The Norma mag essentially gives you .300 win mag ballistics without the extra case lenght. I have an old Herters Stock for it that looks like it might be Honduran Mahagony. Anyone with a .30-06 barrel threaded for the P17/P14?

Dave

nice touch on the Swede cocking piece, and to think I threw mine out....some of us dont have any imagination I guess...I'll remember that next time,,,,

here is my Swede 1941 Husqe Model 38.....

Nice jobs. I guess you were busy this summer. I'm working on my 2nd a 6mm AI on a 98/22 action and a heavy 26" Lilja barrel. It's on hold as I had to save all my pennys for a Canadian trip in a couple weeks . Did you do your own handles.

No, the 93 handle i bought on Fleabay before they got stupid, the others I had done by gunsmith named Jack Hamrick who advertises services on Ebay. He is very good and turnaround is under three weeks. They are forged handles and he completely polishes the bolt as well for about $50.00.

Now I've been very busy getting these three to shoot properly, sighting them in and doing some fine tuning. The .338-06 is a real barnbuster and shot great right away (and kicks very hard!!) the 7mm shoot very well and the .257 does also. However it's been stringing groups so I've got a bedding problem or an ammo question.

Dave

Here are some photos of three rifles I built this summer. One is built on a Husquevarna 98 action, rebarrelled into A&B .338-06 with a new trigger guard and magazine to give me a full 3.4 Inch magazine. That is a Boyd's JRS stock, that I finished. A&B barrel shortened to 22" and crowned. Timmney trigger with side safety.

The other (green one) is a Yugo 24/48 with a Boyds stock that I camo painted with Krylon and Krylon webbing paint. Bolt handle forged by Jack Hamrick. Bold trigger with Dayton-Traister low swing safety in .257 Roberts. Adams and Bennet barrel, shortened to 22".

Third is a Turk 93 action in 7mm x57 with A&B barrel. That is an old Fajen stock. Commercial shroud but using a standard striker to get necessary firing pin fall. Timmney Trigger with side safety. Stock finish is 8 coats of Minwax poly. I perefer true oil spray but until they can get their SHIITE together and made an aerosol that doesnt clog I'll use the minwax. I shot it in satin sheen.

Dave

I've heard of people 'draw filing' the ring on turks but I wouldn't try it and believe me, I've done some dumb stuff!

I actually did draw file mine down. Of course the barrel had been removed which made it a lot easier. The forward ring is not that tough, as it is somewhat thin.

Dave