plumbum

you can bend it with steam apparently. there was quite a discussion over this at accuratereloading. some for, some against.

the swiss K31s have notoriously short necks, as the bullets have a sharp profile. cast loads will be tough, but they are done.

find reason for crack and correct if possible, e.g., relieve wood around tang, open crack insert adhesive (narrow cracks use goos fresh cyanoacrylate, wider cracks get good epoxy) clamp shut wipe off all extra adhesive let cure twice as long as directions say drill hole(s) perpendicular to crack insert epoxy put epoxy on brass machine screw install screw, leaving 1/2' between head of screw and wood wipe up all extra epoxy let cure twice as long cut off and carefully file you are done properly applied epoxy or acraglas or wood glue is as strong or stronger than wood. a properly repaired crack will stay repaired. military arsenals use brass pins. I have pinned a few stocks, three I can think of, all have stayed repaired.

swissrifles.com can help. ya know, cracked stocks are easy to fix....

I paid $199 for one off GB, it's in great shape and all numbers match. came with a bayo that I will sell on eBay to get some money back. I was going to sporterize it, but I like it the way it is. they are the only mauser "deals" out there right now IMHO.

there is also a video of a whale being trucked through an asian town on a flatbed. right in the middle of town, the gas buildup from the decomposition burst the whale.

the 257 AI will do almost as much as the 25-06, but with less powder, which means it costs a little less to shoot and will be a bit easier on the barrel. the shorter powder column is all the rage these days and is supposed to be inherently more accurate. I think that is probably true. in addition to the above, the 257 AI is easier on the rifle due to reduced bolt thrust, and the brass lasts longer from reduced stretching. Is Building an AI really worth it? if the reaming does not cost you much more, and you reload, I would say yes. Lee has the 257 AI dies for a very reasonable price. is it a big difference between the 257 and 257 AI? no. but it's a real difference that's worth it to me. be advised RCBS has a 257 AI cut (30 degrees, IIRC), and there is a standard one out there too. The gun I am working on now uses the other one, which I think is the standard 257 AI 40 degree version. soon as richard's sends me the stock I will be able to develop some loads for it.

ackley himself thought it one of his favorites, and what it does not gain in sheer ballistics, it does gain in reduced bolt thrust. the reduced thrust may not be importatnt in 98s and the like, but in other mausers, I (for whatever that is worth) think it is a considerable benefit.

only some, IIRC the M27 or M28. not the overwhelmingly more common M39.

it's not about grunt, it's about lateral movement of the quill, or lack thereof. mills are rigid in that the chucks don't move side-to-side. drill presses are less so.

I would buy one like that tomorrow for $150.

Orale! If you have the springfield-type cocking piece, and are looking to get rid of that, I will take it.

actually, you can rebarrel a 99 to 243, 308, 284, or 358. the 99 came in all of those. you will need to change some mag parts too, but they are available. the 300 savage is still popular enough that I would leave it alone. you can get ammo for it pretty easily. it's a good round, anyways. I am reworking one, and leaving the caliber alone, at 300 savage. caribou are not known for being tough, I wouldn't hesitate to use a 300 on one. just shoot good 150-gr bullets. FWIW the 7.62x51 NATO round was developed from the 300 savage, and the 308 win from that. of course, if you want to go all out, get one made for 308 and rebarrel it to 416 McPherson (.416/284). that thing packs a wallop.

polytech sells them IIRC.