rdfrench31

thanks for the replies guys...I knew about the short life of the O2 tanks from lowes, but it does seem to be a handy little setup. I plan on getting an OA set some day, kinda hoping to run across a used set.

Solders developed specifically for gun use (resistence to caustic bluing) are about 96% tin 4% silver. This is pretty much what is also sold at the hardware store as silver solder used for joining stainless. Melts at 475 F.

Z, will any of these work? Tractor Supply has these

What is it you are silver sodering? Virualy all soldering involving firearms uses plumbing solder, not silver solder.

 

Vlad

I'm going to try donmarkey's hinged triggerguard mod. So I need to solder/braze the hinge to the floorplate. I have one of the MAPP/Oxygen torches from Lowes. Should I just order the solder and flux from Brownells?

Will a MAPP torch like the ones sold at Lowes burn hot enough to silver solder...or do you have to have OA?

Not allowing the stones to roll over the edge is key.

Yeah, the one Potterfield did looked kinda bubba to me. I've seen ones here that looked awesome...like yours Z, kenak's, and clemson's...I know I've neglected others but those are the ones that come to mind.

Are you using 2 peice bases?

Yeah Leupold 2-pc for the FN mauser.

I just watched Larry Potterfield remove the charging hump from a LR mauser action. It was on the guntech section during American Rifleman TV. He used a Dremel with one of the coarse sanding drums and a mill followed by an India stone. I think he was doing okay until he got to the stoning...looks like to me he rolled the edges over way too far. It wasn't near as sharp and clean as the ones I've seen many of the members here do. I did see one thing that I thought was kinda neat, he laid a piece of sand paper smooth side down over the bridge, and lapped the rear base to the profile of the newly contoured bridge. I've almost finished mine, but I started with a 9/16 HSS end mill, then a , then the stone. I'm trying to get a nice clean line along the sides of the receiver like the ones Z1r and others have done. Have any of you guys ever lapped the rear base? I noticed you can see light under my rear base, but i figured I would continue stoning the bridge until the lines were nice and crisp and the base fit down tight. He also checked the tops of the bases with a level, and lapped the rear base until it was level with the front. Honestly this is something I completely neglected to check, but i will now.

that bolt turned out really nice.//what kind of welder do you have?

Hmm, why on earth would you put heat control paste on the threads? You ever try to get that junk out of a bolt?

dunno i could be wrong...what is welding paste?

What's the welding paste you speak of???

 

THANKS

Don

I think he is talking about heat control paste

And how to make buttressing theads?

Just screw up the "V" threads, and you are there:)

it's funny you mentioned that, because the first time I turned threads thats what they looked like

I've used aluminum for many years now. My heat sink was also one of my first projects.

 

You can grind your own bit or just use a 60 degree threading bit turned so the leading edge is perpendicular to the heat sink.

I never thought about turning the bit...thanks Z

What's the TPI?

It is a butress thread, and it can be turned on you're lathe. You will have to grind a tool bit for it, use steel not aluminum.

thanks lemski...wouldn't aluminum make a better heat sink since it's a better conductor?

What's the deal with the funky threads on the bolt shroud of the 98s? How would one go about turning those threads in a lathe? I was wanting to turn myself a heat sink out of aluminum round stock, but am unsure about these threads.

.562-24=538?

.562-(1/24)=.520

I think I would just use the 33/64 drill

as my son would say TRACTOR SUPPLY COMPANY

Ah...I forgot about them having some metal stock. Do they have any 1.125 or 1.25 round bar?

WEll its kinda high carbon steel to resist twisting hence hard to file and would probably turn purple when hot blued i would thing it would not be any fun working with it just go to t.s.c. and buy your self a piece of 3/4" cold rolled steel i wouldn't recomend hot rolled i did a set of scope mounts with hot rolled and they would not blue.

What is t.s.c.?

If you haven't had any offers, I believe I have a replacement bolt handle identical to the one in your link, and, as shown in Z1r's pic. In fact, I may have a M98 bolt with one of these handles welded on by Z himself. I had him do up 3 for me as his work is superior to most and the equal of the really high priced pros. I'd sell the hollow based bolt blank for $10.00 + actual postage. Z has been charging $75 to weld one up (you supply the bolt and handle). So, if I have one of these left it would have to go for $100 to cover bolt, handle, and installation. I believe that these costs will be lower than buying the parts yourself. Bill

Thanks for the offer, but my action will be a 24/47...so the 98 bolt is too long.

Why don't you start by practicing some more, then make the proper mandrel, and if it turns out ok, thread a blank. Don't rush to get things done fast. Slow down, and earn to do them right.

I agree completely Z that is the correct way to do it, and I may well go that route, but turning threads on an expennsive blank still scares the hell outta me. Let me ask the question this way. If one was to buy a mandrel from Brownells or Midway...would they not be in the same situation as I mentioned before? From what I've read the commercial mandrels also run 60 degree threads. Would lapping a commercial mandrel to an action have any adverse affect on the later union of a pre-threaded barrel to the action? I for one wouldn't want to drop 70 bucks on a tap.

I have an interesting situation. I have been using my lathe for a while now, but I have just started to learn to turn external threads. I plan to buy on of the pre-threaded short chambered barrels (probably Shilen) because I don't yet feel comfortable enough to thread an expensive blank. What I had planned to do is make some of the tooling to both offset cost and to hone my lathe skills. My first project is going to be a receiver mandrel. I know about the difference in the American barrels with 60 degree threads vs the European receivers with 55 degree threads. My thinking is since the barrel I'm looking to buy has 60 degree thread pitch then the mandrel threads should as well. So I know the receiver will not screw onto the mandrel easily because of the difference in threads. My question is should I lap the mandrel and receiver together? If I do lap them, what affect will it have on the barrel to receiver union later?

i did one. decent handle. i like mine.

I've always liked the M77 bolt handle, and that one z1r did looks awesome. Are they any harder to position and weld on than a Talley or the like?

page 2...

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/Pro...20BOLT%20HANDLE

Thanks 724...I bet that's it. Have any of you fellas used one of these or have pics of one installed?

Thanks Guy's

 

I'm on the North side of the 49th parallel and only have one receiver to do. I doubt hat Blanchard's would be an option for me, so guess I'll just limit mods to my receiver. I've done some research, but this was a new issue for me!

 

Don

Same here...thats why I started this thread. Having the receiver heat treated was something I wasn't counting on.

I can't recall where I've seen them, but they are the spitting image of the Ruger M77 MkII handles. I thought it may be this one, but I'm not sure. It says it is hollowed out but the ones I saw were solid. Though I guess they could have been welded up.