rdfrench31

Read Kuhnhausens book with a grain of salt.

Mike,

I take it you're not a huge fan of Kuhnhausens

RD, welcome to the madness. I've been messing with my 1st Mauser for a little over a year. I learned 98% of what I know from these guys. It's an excellent group. Take the advice of many and do the metal work, then pm Z and follow up with the correct heat treat process. He'll know who should do it and what to ask for. I'm a newbie to Mausers, but have been involved with heat treating for over 20 yrs. I've heat treated alot of tooling with a torch or furnace and a 5 gal bucket of quench oil. Case hardening, especially a receiver, is a way different story. Hell, if it didn't crack, it would probably look like a pretzel! Leave that to those who do it for a living.

PS: My Turk was so soft, I made a fixture to hold it in a lathe, bored out the small ring threads and re-threaded to large ring dimensions. With a high speed tool bit! Cut like butter. Needless to say, when it's done it's getting re-case hardened. And not by me.

madness is right...I'm starting to feel overwhelmed

thanks again for the replies fellas

Mike,

pm sent

kenak2,

I'm not saying you don't know what your talking about because you know more than me but is it a nessicity to re-harden the recoil lugs after laping or trueing? I've read books that say one doesn't have to. Just a thought. Walk me through your explanation.

Brenden

I assume you guys are talking about the bolt lugs. Like MD said I haven't heard of this either. I would think that only a minute amount of metal would need to be removed. Though, I am in no way an expert...so I could be way off base.

Thanks for the replies fellas. My yugo 24/47 is still in transit, but here are the things I plan to do to it once it arrives.

- face the secondary torque shoulder

- true the primary torque shoulder

- lap the bolt lugs

- lap the bolt face

- mill off the stripper clip hump

- weld on a new bolt handle

- drill and tap for scope mounts

I just want to make sure I didn't weaken the receiver in a key area.

I took everyone's advise and ordered a copy of "The Mauser Bolt Actions", and I must say you guys were right. This book is great. I have seen mention of receiver hardness mentioned several times already in this book. It seems that anytime the receiver is machined, filed, drilled, etc...care must be taken to avoid removing the layer of hardened steel. I know most everyone trues up the secondary torque shoulder, and many lap or face the primary torque shoulder. Then there in drillind and tapping for a scope...and removing the charging hump. My question is...at what point do you guys consider having the receiver heat treated? Also, how does one go about having it heat treated, is it a DIY or do you send it out to a specialist?

Thanks

I'll see what I can come up with guys...though it probably won't be real soon. I hope to start my project within the next few weeks.

Now that is cool

Precision Rifle Rebarreling and Case Preparation on a Home Shop Lathe by John Stranahan

You guys may not be interested, but I just thought I'd throw it out there in case anyone hadn't seen it. I ordered a copy and it arrived today. It seems very informative and easy for the novice to read. All of his work is done on a 3/1 Shoptask mill/lathe...similar to the Smithy that I have. All of his rifles are built on Rem 700 actions, and it covers everything from removing the old barrel to installing a Hart blank. Also show how he built several of his tools.

Precision Rifle Rebarreling book

That's a great looking rifle, rdfrench31. Your dedication to the project is reflected in the final product. Looks good and obviously shoots good and you cannot ask for much more than that. Thanks for the documentation.

 

Spiris

Thanks Spiris,

That one was a lot of fun. Been wodering how it would work with a harder hitting centerfire.

those rimfirecentral guys have it going on...they actually inspired me to build a target stock off of the original 10/22 carbine. Here are some links to my first 10/22 build.

First getting started with the cutting, glueing, and shaping

Completed stock and rifle for that matter

I don't think I would excpet for the high CDI factor.

 

The brass is more expensive, the dies too. Otherwise, they are darn near ballistic twins. The primary reason I went with one is that I have a 98 I want to chamber and I don't want to inadvertently stick a high pressure 6.5x55 loading into one of my 96's. Nice to have readily identifiable brass.

I was just looking at dies and brass for the 6.5s looks like the swede is considerable cheaper to load and shoot. Could one expect the 6.5x55 to feed correctly in a 24/47 action?

Here's a group I fired with open sights at 100 yds.

 

I've yet to not get better than MOA from any of my Xx57 based rounds. And remember, all my rifles have sporter weight barrels.

 

Heck, just yesterday I took an 80+ year old Sporter to the range. I had just rechambered it to 8x60 and with the fairly hard to see sights at an indoor range (poor lighting) I was shooting better groups than the guy inthe next stall who was shooting a scoped mini 14. Yeah, not apples to oranges but you get the idea. The accuracy is there, you just need the right assembly of parts.

 

My 6.5x57 is still in the works but friends that have them love them and say they are every bit as accurate as the 6.5x55.

Looks good z...this one will be a sporter as well. This is my first attempt at my own build, so I have a lot of questions. I just want a good solid performing deer caliber, but I can't live with substandard groups.

Poor, that's why we keep recommending them.

OK, Ok...I get it. I have a lot of experience with the 308 family of cartridges, but none in the X57s. I'm just wondering if they have the inherent accuracy typically experienced with the 308.

the .257 and 6mm rem are slam dunks in these actions as is the 6.5x57.

What have been your guys experience with accuracy in the x57 cartridges? Specifically the 6.5x57.

what about the 6.5-284 dont know how much work it would be to get it to feed but a great long range shooter buck98k

buck,

I've been researching that round also. From what I understand it is best suited to a push feed action like the M70, because of the rebated rim.

Thanks for all the comments guys...there is clearly not a cut and dry answer to my question regarding the 06 cartridges. I definitely want a rifle that feeds like it should, and I don't want to limit myself with OAL (though I always roll my own rounds anyhow) as I like to play with the bullet jump for accuracy.

z1r, Have you chambered any of the X57 calibers as improved? If so does it hamper feeding much?

My best bet will probably be to make some dummy rounds for the calibers I'm interested in and see how well my particular action cycles. Does this sound plausable?

6mm rem is on the 7x57 case... should feed like butter... no fitting issues...

 

heath

Heath,

I thought about that as well as the 257 Roberts, both should feed like champs. Have any of you guys chamberred a 24/47 or 48 in either the 6mm Ackley or the 257 Roberts Ackley? What about the 6.5X57 it should lay pretty close to the 260 Rem...correct?

I see all the posts against this but My first rebarrel was an 30-06 on an M48 (same length) and over 100 rounds later I still haven't had any of the problems I hear about. I did file the front and rear of the magazine a bit because I was told I would need to, I think it would have worked fine without the filing though.

 

Roy

That's good to hear Roy. So does yours feed okay? There seems to be a lot of horror stories about feeding issues.

I have seen this topic brought up a few times on the 24/47 and M48 (intermediate length action), but I'm not sure if any conclusions were reached. I have a Yugo 24/47 ordered from Samco, and I wan't to do a little research before I start buying components. I would love to have one of these 06 length cartridges for the Yugo...6mm-06, 25-06, or 6.5mm-06. I already have a 25-06 sporter in a Ruger M77, so I am particulary interested in the 6mm and 6.5mm. Are the intermediate actions and their magazines truly long enough to accept 06 length cartridges or will I have to settle for a 08 length?

Thanks for all the info guys...this forum is great. Jim's design looks simple yet effective i think i might try it first.

Yes sir it is. I can't make em for less and they are easy to work with and a decent classic look.

It's hard to tell from that pic how long the handle is. Do you cut that piece of rough stock off or turn in down on the lathe?

Yeah, I had the same problem, so I threw it away and went back to using either Talley's or Halfmoon handles. You can weld either of them on to replicate the angle of attachment anyway.

z1r,

Is this the Talley bolt handle you use?

Looking at the pics of the ones online, they look pretty beefy. What thickness plate steel is adequate? Looks to be an inch or better.

When I made mine, I just took the dimensions off of the action I was going to use it for.

-Don

That is plan "B"...I don't have an action in house yet. Will order it the first of the year. I was wanting to get a jump on some of the tooling before the action arrives.