rustvyper

Drill it with a smaller carbide bit. It will usually shatter after just a bit of pressure. Run a new tap through & see if the hole can be saved. Believe it or not I've put jb weld in a damaged hole like this, let it cure, redrilled & re-tapped. Over half the threads were still metal, but the epoxy took a thread just fine & the mount is solid as a rock.

The Israeli 7.62 NATO convertions have a block tac welded in already. They work & look nice & since the 308 win is the same length as te 243, try getting one of those. I know Numrich had them a year ago at least.

cut it off & add a shotgun trigger bow onto it. It'll be prettier than before!

Count this as the umpteenth time I've relearned the life lesson, "it never pays to be lazy." I was out of bedding compound & didn't want to order more since we are moving. But the performance I complained about above & everyone's obvious advice, I ordered, bedded & reshot...viola! Problem solved!

First 3 shots - cold barrel @100m. Second shot went through the same hole, always an encouraging sign.

Second 3 - you can see the group open up and arch left as the barrel heats up.

This was not premium ammo, just run of the mill 150gr Remington core-loks.

Thanks for all the advice guys! She's ready for gun season now.

Whaaaa-? that's awesome

oops, looks like they support ipboard 3.1 & above only. Guess we're still running 3.0.5. Oh well.

I meant to say I can't find our site on it.

Yes, you have to register it.

Here's the FAQ link. It explains a lot.

Simply go to the forum owner's link, register, download the plugin & follow the instructions. Should be a simple process.

I do plan on rust bluing.

 

The reason for heat treating is just to be sure. I cleaned up the reciever ring, removing the crest. Of course I also lapped the bolt/reciever lugs. May or may not have taken enough of in either process to make a difference, but if I have it treated I can be sure. Also, since I am welding the new bolt handle on, I don't have any worries of losing treatment on the lugs after welding since it will all be re heat treated.

Yeah, I think at best you're wasting your money on the heat treating & at worst you can make the action brittle. Why not just do a simple hardness test?

There's a tapatalk ap for android as well. It's $1.99, but money well spent. Mausercentral is on there. Should be a painless process, just need FC to sign up & tapatalk does the rest.

That sounds like the walkie-talkie type of apps that are out there like Zello and Voxer. They are basically verbal text messages you can listen to when you want. We are trying out Voxer for clinic communication. He put in for a grant to have two of us tele-medicine talk to patients from our office or some other location. He would be in the clinic area. I asked how we were going to communicate without using a phone or Vocera? We have done some testing of Voxer, which is SMS (secure messaging service) since Zello does not advertise itself as secure. Voxer works fine. It gives a single chime on your smart phone when you get a message. It's free, unlike Vocera, which would cost a quarter of a million bucks just to get started.

 

Does that sound like the app you are talking about?

No no, this is a mobile forum reader. No tiny letters, easy touch threads & simple upload function for photos. It basically makes navigating this forum super easy & fun. For example, I'm posting this from my iPad. I would upload a screenshot of the ap but I can't because the forum is not optimized to support tablets & phones (where I take most of my pictures anyway).

Registering is free for you, they do the rest. The end user pays for the ap.

It'd be nice for all the tablet & smartphone users out there. It's free for basic membership. I use it on several other websites & it works awesome.

www.tapatalk.com

The rod you use to tig & the steel for the handle will effect the bolt if you plan to blue it. Are you planning on bluing the handle? Might I suggest a high sheen polish & jeweling? Then the steel & weld won't matter. Unless you're planning on a deep matte rust bluing, I've found bolt handles don't wear well when blued.

Also, why are you heat treating the bolt and receiver? Yugo m24s were some of the finest machined & finished mausers ever made.

Bedding this week & gonna try with some premium ammo. We'll see how it does.

Well...she looks good, but got me stumped on accuracy. The rifle is definetly MOD (minute of deer). I can get 2 - 2.5" groups out of her at 100 yards. I'm a little stumped. I've never had a rifle build that was more than 1" moa right off the bat.

It's not bedded yet, but the barrel is floated & the action pillared. My test environment wasn't the best. Shooting in the sun in the las Vegas desert with Walmart brand federal cheapo 150gr. Still...a little disappointed.

Scope mount was solid. Any suggestions?

Bell & Carlson premier thumbhole. Doubled the price if the build. Certainly one of the nicer synthetics I've ever used, but I still prefer wood.

Kinda sad, Best deal on mausers I ever got! Kept this one in 308. I like how it turned out. 

Sorry to hear that - what about da swede? 6.5x55

Or you could go really unusual & build for one of the new AR calibers; 300 blackout, 6.5 grenadal, 6.8 spc. Just spitballin to make you feel better.

I understand what Mike's doing. I've been surprised about how many folks seem to get butt-hurt right away about small things (an anonymous complaint seemingly was part of bringing this whole thing on) so he's taking the most conservative route & I can't blame him.

'Tis an unfortuante end to a good co-op - hopefully we can get it stood back up.

I vote for keeping the same co-op format. Sending tools back to their owners would be the end of it as I previously stated.

Return the reamers to the owners and keep a database on who has what. The owner can mail out the reamer and inspect it upon return. Dave Manson from Manson Reamers offered to do a maintenance program on the reamers for little to no cost as long as they didn't need regrinding. Mike should have the info from Dave. Just an idea, since I am not a member and really shouldn't have a say or vote in the matter, but the reason I never joined was I didn't know if the reamers were properly maintained and inspected. But I am of the cautious type and would never buy or use a reamer of unknown history.

Don

I suspect this would be the death of the co-op.

Here's the orginal email with mike's address redacted. Sounds like he no longer is building & if there was a complaint it probably ended his interest.

Well I have been running the co-op for a few years now and it has been a pleasure working with all the members. I haven't built a rifle in a few years and I think it's time to turn it over to one of you guys.

It is not all that time consuming but I have so many irons in the fire that I feel like some one else who has a little time on there hands might do a better job and actually enjoy managing it.

If you'd like to volunteer please let me know.

E-mail me at my address. *****@*****.com

Thanks,

Mike

When I saw the email I replied personally to him as he requested in the email. That's why the co-op members didn't see my email. Anyway, hopefully you're a little less confused now.

As far as the complaint goes - I don't know what there is to complain about unless you had a reamer lost or you just enjoy drama.

Fair enough - I was the first to volunteer because mike said to reply to his personal email & not the co-op so I did so.

Just to put in my 2 cents. I wouldn't use your reamers for any personal business. Most of my work will be FFL transfers & black rifle stuff. My gunsmithing ain't that good to do benchrest rifles for more than hobbiest pursuits. I thought the mention of the machine shop would be a plus as I'll know how to take care of & sharpen your tools better than the average joe. However, I could see how it would cause concern. Although come to think of it, what's to keep me from mis-using the co-op now? lol.

Anyway, I've benefited from the co-op & hope we can keep it up. I'll withdraw my name if folks feel they can't trust me.

Mike's always bent over backwards to get me my requested reamer on time. It's saved me a butt load of money! That being said, he has volunteered to give up the co-op & I volunteered to take it over (before I knew there was a complaint).

No idea what's going on there.

It's a purely voluntary co-op with 100% of the work being done by one guy. Dunno what there would be to complain about unless you couldn't get your reamer back.

Lol, pink & plum *gasps* right here: http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-334/S%26K-Thumbhole-Riflestocks-for/Detail

Also, I think a black synthetic with a pink duracoat would look hawt!

How does it group at 100 meters?

Function???

 

 

This is interesting.

 

karl

Grouping a sks at 100 meters is always problamatic. It shoots ok, engaging targets with the non-magnified el-cheapo red-dot (non-braced, offhand) I was putting all the rounds in a pie-plate sized area. I haven't shot it braced at all.

I love how it makes it function though. It puts a full length carbine barrel in a "right there" handy length. I'm not a tactical guy at all, but the entire stock is very ergonomic as compared to the full length of a sks or AK. It's a little heavier than my AR, but I like it better. somewhere down the line I may covert it to take regular AK mags, but right now the tapcos function flawlessly even if the duck bill is a bit akward.

The trigger linkage is very well designed & actually improves the sks trigger imho.

It is loud as crap! I wear ear plugs with a muffs overtop. You have the round detonating right by your cheek & you have that massive steel bolt slamming under your cheek meld. with the double ear protection almost all you hear is that big bolt slapping back & forth "shuSHINK! shuSHINK!"

Thumbs up for me.