rustvyper

Holy smokes! 5G's!?!?! I need to build me a 416 remmy & sell it quick!!! That's a pretty sporty price for a gun with no engraving, carving or gold inlay on it.

I've never taken the rear sight off one before - I would imagine you would be ok. it may be glued in there. As far as the cocking piece cut-off I'll post some pictures soon about my project on that subject.

I use a steel rod & it works fine (although I use a long one). The k coefficient of steel is only 43 W/(m.K) while aluminum is 250 W/(m.K). Copper is the best with a 401 W/(m.K) coefficient, but I think you'll be fine. Just you a liberal amount of heat paste. If you're tig welding, a good, quick job usually heat my bolts so little I'm doubtful a sink is required at all, but I use one anyway.

This probably belongs in the hunting section... Anyway, before I hang up the air force wings & head back east to NC, I want to do a bull elk hunt. Any advice or experience to relay? I'm looking for semi-guided at the least, & I'm ready to spend the $. Any of our western guys wanna share?

I've always used the rubber plugs they sell at lowes or HD - they work fine. I'll tap em in with a rubber mallet & usually have to take them out with a cork remover, but never had a leak. Obviously it's a one time use.

NICE piggy! I was always more afraid of those things than bears!

Nope - I like the bold or timney triggers with side-safety. You'll get some argument on here that they aren't a "real" safety because they block the trigger & not the sear, but whatever. These are nice because you can adjust the trigger break poundage If you want to get really slick you can replace the clunky safety/bolt shroud with a sleek fn style shroud: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20645/Product/BOLT-SHROUD or you can simply replace the military 2-stage trigger with a single stage & the existing swing safety with a low mount safety. Sarco or numrich always had good deals for these. Those are much more "drop in". You may have to fit a new shroud a little, but nothing too major. Just make sure you put it all together in the white before you start doing major finishing work on it, to make sure it functions correctly. Here's a good link of a guy who built one. Photos

drift out the front & rear sight base pins (keep them) & then knock off the sights with a mallet & a piece of wood. You may have to heat the rear base with a torch to get the silver-solider on there to let loose. drift back in the rear pin & peen it in or secure it with some jb weld then grind/sand it flush. Shorten the barrel to 22-21" & recrown. Sand blast the whole deal & reblue or finish off in duracoat or gun coat, you'll have a winner. I'm in the process of doing a swede right now.

Yep, do it all the time. If I'm going to duracoat, I don't even bother - I fill them with an epoxy filler. If you're going to weld & reblue, make sure to use something like this: TIG rods otherwise the welds may not blue the same hue as the orginal metal.

haha FM - you love some nutty colors - have you thought about duracoating in one of their bloomberg specials? The co-op is still going - email mike. I'll be needing your 6.5x55 set pretty soon myself for my 96 project. Just curious - why no FN style shroud when you have the boyd's side safety on there?

Good to know - My schooling background was mech E & I didn't think it was a deal killer. However, if he's that big an idiot, what other things has he done? I think I'll still use this receiver (eventually). I'm chasing down plan B right now.

Yep, I definitely paid too much. I'm a little dissapointed with the folks I ordered it from. Mentioning a broken tap in the description would seemingly be important. I think the hole with the tap is a blind bottom hole & drilled in front of the threads. I had the same thought that it was locking the barrel on too. I don't think I'm comfortable with using this action for something I intend for my kids to shoot in 10 years. I have a plan B up my sleeve that won't waste the other parts. Here's the plan as it stands right now. - ER Shaw barrel w/helical fluting in a #1 contour - 6.5x55 - Richard's dual-thumbhole stock in a AA or AAA quilted maple with the rosewood tip cap - Timney Trigger - FN style shroud - recontour trigger guard Things to decide: - Add dayton-traister cock on open conversion? I've never used a cock on close, so I don't know if I'll hate it, like it, or not care. I do like the idea of a shorter lock time with the cock on open. - Finish. I can't decide if I want to rust blue it or duracoat in a gunblue/black blend. The nice thing about duracoating is I get to fill every little pit & blemish. The nice thing about the blueing would be I could engrave the floorplate & triggerguard later & make it a true heirloom rifle. Well this is NOT going to be a cheap build. I saw a guy selling a Model 70SE locally in 6.5x55. He wanted $1300 for it & I laughed at the time. Now it looks my rifle will be close to a G by the time I'm done. This is one for the ages though. Hope to be still packing it in 40 years. I'll document my progress as best I can as I go.

So I found what I thought was a deal on a crudely sporterized 1917 Carl Gustav Mauser 96. I've gotten fairly proficient at building rifles on all the common actions...Mauser 98, Remington 700's, etc, so leave it to me to try building myself a personal shooter on an action I've never laid hands on before! So back to my "deal". It's the double-edge sword of internet gun buying that you can find awesome deals that turn out to be not so awesome when you get them. I found this one at Simpson Ltd & their description said it was already drilled & tapped for mounts so I knew I was taking a risk there. What they didn't mention was that it was drilled with what looks like a very small diameter drill, the rear lug was totally drilled through, & the front hole either has the bit or the tap broken in it. I paid $170 shipped for it, so I'm not in such a bad way, but I'm thinking that this receiver is scrap metal. What do you guys say? I've already got it broken down, but boy I can't for the life of me get this barrel turned off. I was hoping to save it & recover a little cash by putting it on gunbroker, so I'm loathe to put a pipe wrench to it. If the receiver is truly roached, I may cut that off & save the barrel as it seems to be the one thing the guy didn't hack on.

What are you heat treating? Have you run a simple Brinnell Hardness test on it to make sure you need it?

I found what I was looking for - thanks guys!

yep - going to bigger holes might be your only option unless you choose to get them tigged up.

yep - going to bigger holes might be your only option unless you choose to get them tigged up.

are they so far off that you can re-d&t in the correct place without hitting the old holes? I've both tig-welded shut bad holes & I've also filled them with jb welded screws, & then ground off flush. That worked well in an action that got duracoated - you would never know they were there.

That's awesome! I've never seen a GEW used for anything. Are you planning on redoing the metal finish?

Mauser 98 LR - sorry!

I need both for under $100 shipped total if someone is willing to part with stuff laying around.

Thanks guys - guess I'll pull the trigger (no pun intended). I'll keep you updated once I get my project going.

I've come across the opportunity to buy a crudely sporterized 1917 Carl Gustav mauser 96 in the orginal 6.5x55 for less than $200. I've always wanted a 6.5x55 for personal use & from what I've read, the 96 is one of the best small ring actions there is. The bolt was poorly done & the safety even more so, but the D&T job looks proffesional. It's in a cut down military stock & the orginal barrel is on there. As I understand it, the 96 barrel didn't have barrel steps, except for the one at the front site which I'll remove anyway. I won't get a chance to shoot it, & the bore looks dull. It might be ok, just in need of a good electro cleaning. I'm looking to do this on the cheap. Do you guys think this is a good candidate?

I guess I come from the school of thought that if enough people are willing to pay for it, there must be a legit market. However, there are plenty of people who think "From each according to his ability, to each according to his need." It's America, you can think that.

I don't know how that's being a theif. The guy's not in it to be a friend to everyone. He's providing a service to the too stupid, or too lazy.