rustvyper

only they type work I'd expect from a fellow carolinian... That's a sharp looking rifle. Where did you get the grip cap again?

If any of the above mentioned members would like my business, could you shoot me a PM? Thanks!

I also want .89cent gas again...is that too much to ask?

Are the 1903 Turk mauser "intermediate" bolts the same length as the yugos? i.e. interchangable?

How much we talking here? I'm trying to get it done for $50 or less.

message says it all!

Ok, maybe I'm getting it. I assume I use a throat reamer to hollow out the casing space & then finish up with the finish reamer to get the necking & bullet space?

What's the difference b/w a solid pliot & a floating pilot reamer, & which do I need? Also, ebay has a "finish reamer" for sale cheap. I assume this isn't what I need?

P.S. Thanks for all the help guys. I think this will be my first project I've done 100% by myself. No outside help.

Check this out, I bent the pipe-wrench I used to get it off! Well the good news is I now have a beautiful receiver which I took down to the white, ground off the charging hump & drilled/tapped for the bases. Waiting on the barrel & bolt handle from Brownells for phase 2 of the project. Cost so far: ~$79 for the 24/47 $8 for the bases ~$87 for the barrel & bolt handle $90 for the stock $30 for the trigger + misc costs, etc. Looking around $300+ for the project...not bad, although not my cheapest to date.

Holy Cow! this sucker is tight! this is a right-threaded action, is it not? righty-tighty, lefty-loosie? I'm using a pipe on my action wrench to give me leverage & all I'm doing is lifting my whole work bench! Any thoughts?

Well this afternoon I'm going to remove the yugo barrel. You guys have convinced me to take on the rebarreling myself. I'm ordering a barrel from Brownells right now, though I doubt I'll be able to work on it until I get back from iraq. But until then, I'm going to remove the old barrel & get the action scrubbed down to the white & drilled & tapped. Questions about refitting the barrel. How tight do you need to have it & do you guys add anything to keep it tight? Also, I'm building this rifle for a buddy & since I had to change the barrel anyway, I let him choose his new caliber. He chose 308. I took some of my 308 rounds out this morning & tried to feed it through another 24/47 I have. It seems like it'll feed like a dream, the only hang up right now it seems the rim on the 308 is a few microns thicker than the 8mm mauser so it hangs up when sliding into the claw. I assume heating & opening the claw just a tad will cure this? Thanks for all the help guys. Pictures will be forth-coming in the summer when the project gets completed!

You'll probably have to ask him for a price quote. Last time I used him it was last year. I did find his website: http://www.mosinparts.com/ It says $45 for the bolt handle & I paid $15 for the safety, but that was sending in my whole bolt for modification. Hope that helps...

One other trick if you attempt. When you remove the rear sight base (I suggest simply cutting it with a dremel & then heating ti with a torch - I gouged my barrel by knocking it off & had extra sanding), make sure you keep the 2 pins that held it on. Those are perfect for filling the holes they formally occupied. Heat them with a torch, seat them with a hammer , then file/sand them flush. You actually need a magnifying glass & to know where to look to see where the rear sight holes were.

The guy who made it for me is named Michael Battersby <mjbatter@tc3net.com>. He also did the bolt as well. The safety is definately usable, but not convienent. My wife can (& has while hunting) operated it, so it doesn't take an elephant to do it like it used to. The russian action itself is rather sloppy & takes someone who knows what they're doing. I've had the bolt hang up before while using the safety & also if you don't watch what you're doing, you can unseat the cocker from the guide if you open the bolt while the safety is engaged. The action is definately the weak point of the nagant, no doubt. However, that being said, she looks beautiful & shoots like a dream. As long as you know your gun cold, it's a perfect little hunting rifle. I've thought about doing another one & putting it in one of the black ati stocks & finishing the metal in silver dura-coat...However that'll be down the road after my current mauser project!

I'm considering re-barreling a 24/47 I have. I've done every part of the process on sporters except chamber reaming. How difficult is the process? Also, anyone used the brownells mauser barrels?

Actually no. SGN is one of the few publications I don't get. Do you have a link to the article?

Good steel is 0.07 cents per pound right now...

Oh yeah...I glass-bedded the stock...Performance checks in at sub 1" up to 100yds & sub 2.5 @ 280 yards, which is as long as a range as I have access too.

Thought I'd share a couple photos of my mosin nagant sporter project. I finished this girl in 06 & she just finished her 2nd deer season with me. I mostly bow hunt, but she's dropped 3 deer & one hog since I finished her. I know Mosins tend to be the sow's ear of the milsurp world, but they can shoot straight, & can knock down a moose with the x54R's, & they actually clean up pretty well once you get all the russian sanded off! This rifle started life as a '39 Tula aresenal 91/30. With no stock & no trigger... - cut the barrel down to 22" - crowned the new barrel end - ground off the rear sight base - sanded off all the old bluing & applied a new finish - installed a Hubner concepts trigger - put it in a boyd's sporter stock (still needs a checkering job) - got an ATI-style turn-down bolt handle & a swiss-style ringed rear-cocker. This actually makes the mosin safety usable (although not convinent). - drilled & tapped for a ATI scope base Total cost ended up at around $350 including the weaver grand-slam 3-10x40 & the orginal cost of the rifle. I know you can get a nice savage or remington for that, but where's the fun in that? Plus, there will just be something satisfying about downing a nice buck or bull with one of Stalin's red army rifles. I'm sure he never envisioned in a million years that a air force 1Lt would be using his rifle for a capatalist past-time! ha, take that Stalin! Hope you guys, enjoy. Comments welcome.

A question for anyone who's recontoured a mil-barrel: My 24/47 has an ugly hole right where the tip of the screw from the rear sight went. I at first thought I could grind it out but it is far deeper than I thought & I'm not comfortable removing that much metal. How did you guys deal with this? Thanks!

That's gorgeous - did you cold-blue that?

I'm so glad I found this thread! I just took apart a 24/47 that I was going to leave the orginal barrel on. It's a tack-driver in in mil-sup configuration, & I was doing this project for a friend as a gift. I've never done a 24/47, all I've done is 98's that were rebarreled. I have done a 91 mosin, left in the orginal mil barrel & that turned out gorgeous, but this barrel has a series of rather ugly steps to it. How are you guys effecting the recontouring? I'm assuming with a lathe, or could a heavey-duty power-sander do the trick. Anyone have a picture of a finished product? Thanks!