gun nutty

Is it? http://www.usflag.org/us.code36.html (j) No part of the flag should ever be used as a costume or athletic uniform. However, a flag patch may be affixed to the uniform of military personnel, firemen, policemen, and members of patriotic organizations. The flag represents a living country and is itself considered a living thing. Therefore, the lapel flag pin being a replica, should be worn on the left lapel near the heart. No part of a flag was actually used on the t-shirts. However, I am interpreting that even a full photo of a flag, or a silkscreen of one, is still considered "disrespectful". Now if I have red/white/blue on my clothing, or red and white stripes with white stars on a blue field, integrated into a pattern on clothing, does that constitute a flag? My gut tells me "no". It's a symbolic representation of our country, and when worn appropriately can show patriotism on the right occasion. I'd consider the following shirt respectful: http://oldglory.com/lp/USA-T-Shirt/p/042172TJTS While this one is an abomination: http://oldglory.com/lp/Uncle-Sam-Skull-T-Shirt/p/042418TJTS One of the local funeral homes in my neck of the woods has their staff wear patriotic stars-and-stripes ties when providing services for veterans. If I remember, it was along these lines: http://www.abcneckties.com/amflagabnec.html No US Code can trump freedom of speech. "Should" is peppered throughout the code, revealing what it really is... a guideline. I would be loathe to tell someone who is truly trying to display pride and patriotism by wearing stars and strips - in a dignified way - that they are somehow "wrong".

It's odd that I talk about the freedoms we enjoy in this country in another post, and have to point to eroded freedom in this post. http://radio.foxnews.com/toddstarnes/top-stories/judge-school-can-ban-american-flag-shirts.html My thoughts: I don't feel that wearing the Red, White, and Blue respectfully should be trumped in any manner. The display of pride and patriotism in the USA shouldn't be quelled. Exception: Good taste is of course essential. While I can appreciate a woman wearing a string bikini with the Stars and Stripes on it, wearing such a swimsuit to a formal, church wedding would be inappropriate. It would still be appreciated, though.

I'll second that. To all my Brother and Sister Warriors: Thank you for your dedication and devotion to serving your country. Your service and sacrifice are most humbly appreciated. I think it's even more important today to recognize those who paid the ultimate sacrifice. They are silenced, but not forgotten! As long as we keep their memory alive, they live with us. God Bless the United States of America, its People, the Freedom we enjoy, and the quiet Warriors who set us apart from the rest of the world.

Do you want to save the barrel? You already have a lathe, or you are talking as though you do. Chuck the barrel in the lathe and make a relief cut in the barrel just forward of the receiver. Get as close as you can without actually hitting the receiver. This reduces the torque pressure between the two parts and should allow easy barrel removal by hand, or at least with minimal pressure.

The Spanish did rebore and set-back their 7mm barrels for the 7.62X51 conversions. They even press-fitted a new shoulder at the barrel/receiver junction. If someone told me that the Turks did the same thing, I couldn't argue. It's entirely possible that this was done, and may have saved resources and time.

If the only thing that has been altered is the hand guard, you might be better off finding a replacement and "restoring" it. Even in pieces, the rifle might have significant collector value. I'd get a rough value of its worth before chopping. If you can get some money out of it, sell it; then you can buy a glorious "beater" for glorification.

http://www.gutenberg.org/ The original.

sayak, that looks nice. How'd you get the striped pattern. Did you just tape it off?

Some links on camouflage: http://www.predatormastersforums.com/riflecamo.shtml http://www.predatormastersforums.com/riflecamo2.shtml

I wouldn't want to paint the scope and rings. Have you looked at this?: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Gun-Storage/Sleeves-Camo|/pc/104792580/c/104730480/sc/104576580/Camo-Form-Gun-Wrap/707441.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fshooting-gun-storage-sleeves-camo%2F_%2FN-1100214&WTz_l=SEO%3Bcat104576580 I'd read the reviews... At least with this option you're not tied into a specific season. I'm a little confused by camouflaging a rifle. Are you actually trying to conceal yourself from something while hunting, or just trying to spice up a rifle? My thinking is that having blued or stainless metal would provide a good contrast against a white stock. On the old board, someone (fmsniper?) had camo'd a stock using nylon fishnet stretched over the stock. The "lines" were painted as a base coat, and the main color was painted with the nylon fishnet stretched over that base. My thinking is that brown or olive drab as a base with white as a final would look wicked.

Did you contact S&W? Just asking...

I don't know that there would be a practical reason for a .338X57. Better bullet selection?

No, I definitely said the AVERAGE IQ, not total. With the CA population the size that it is, for Karl to leave the state and have the average IQ drop is significant. Karl is very well-versed in just about everything that he posts, and walks more upright than I ever will. Mega-mind comes to my thoughts...

Oh, and found this review of your rifle with pellet recommendations: http://www.pyramydair.com/site/articles/cfx-test/

Natchez Shooters Supplies has a pound of 4064 listed at $19.99. They also have a $25 hazmat fee per ***50*** pounds of powder. http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=DU40641&src=tpMfg I'd get 5 pounds of powder, 5 canisters of your choice, and dollar-cost-average things. Natchez is Chattanooga, right across from GA. Road trip? http://wikitravel.org/en/Chattanooga

pacrat is on target. If this thing doesn't resolve quickly, and to your satisfaction, a quick consultation with an attorney to verify your property rights is probably in order. My memory says, in my neck of the woods, I have to stay 5" away from the property line for a fence. There's also a 5' easement around the perimeter of the property for utilities and such. I can't see where a neighbor would have a legal right to use your property, unless it would be the only way to have access to their property (maybe due to an obstacle or natural formation barring normal travel). If there's a concern about squatting, now's the time to address it.

I was trying to explain gyroscopic drift: https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/External_ballistics#Gyroscopic_drift_.28Spin_drift.29 The wikipedia article on external ballistics is very nice. Another thread trying to explain a corkscrew flight path of pellets: http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1281452071/can+pellet+flight+curve-

That's interesting indeed. If your scope is dead center over the bore, then it's probably rifling. If the scope was offset to the right a significant amount, I'd expect the impact point to move farther left after the zero range. One of my buddies would offset the impact point at 100 yards to the right or left a bit to compensate for what was happening at 250-300 yards (I seem to remember about 3" high off center, and about 1/2" right or left depending on R/L twist). I need to look and see if I can find anything on this. My recollection is that there is an issue with this, I just don't know that it would be as much as 2" at shorter ranges.

This is what happens when folks leave California. Karl should have stayed. His departure reduced the average Cali IQ by 15 points, and his arrival in FL had a negligible effect. We can blame all the turmoil on him.

What do YOU want to do with it? Lightweight mountain/stalking rifle? Varmiter? Big bore thumper? Full-sized BGR (big game rifle)? I'd think about what's missing in your gun cabinet and work from there...

With the strength of the 38 well documented, my thought is that the .300 Savage and .250 Savage are rather "anemic". Both are excellent cartridges, but I'd think that they'd be a better fit in .308 Win length actions. The 6.5 "Spence Special" (6.5x57) was a popular conversion for the 38, so I'm suspecting that "x57" cartridges will function well (7x57, 8x57, etc.). Dunno... the .257 Roberts, 6.5x57, 6mm Rem, and 7x57 are nothing to apologize for.

The .264 Win Mag is larger at it's smallest major diameter (0.490, the shoulder) than the .260 Rem at its largest major diameter (0.468, the base). The .264 Win Mag case is also 0.475 longer than the .260 Rem. So....Yes. The .264 Win Mag reamer will entirely clean out a .260 Rem chamber. I'd prefer the .260 Rem over the .264 Win Mag, but the .264 would be nice as a long range deer or antelope rifle (a "bean field" rifle).

I usually see cannons painted black at historic sites. Not sure if that's the traditional color or just for ease of maintenance. We were tasked with restoring a Navy anchor from a cruiser. Pneumatic needle guns powered with a portable compressor did the trick in knocking off most of the rust. The anchor looked good after quite a number of years. Your cannons appear to be cast iron. I'd mechanically remove the rust with either needle guns or wire brushes. Wire wheels might work too. We also used some rust-converter for any rust we couldn't get off mechanically. It turned the rust black and supposedly works well as a primer. Exterior enamel or latex should work. I'd rather use the enamel, but the latex cleans up much easier. Use a good exterior primer, and paint as needed. If your cannons are brass or bronze, you may want to paint them anyway. If not, you can always remove the paint and let the metal develop a natural green patina. I think it looks classy.

Nice looking rifle. The plastic ball on the bolt handle is out of place I think, but hey, to each their own. Looks like a very classic German sporter. The double triggers are a nice touch. No clue on who made it.

Maybe a little late... Some of my military rifles like a definite gap between the bottom of the receiver and the top of the magazine. I'm not talking much of a gap, but the two parts must not touch. At least on a couple of my pieces. You could shim the receiver up a bit and see if that works. Just a thought.