gun nutty

Rock and roll.... Per Z1r: "With the beginning of WW-I the annoying habit of front half of receiver & barrel departing the rear got some attention, and both Prussian Imperial arsenals- Erfurt and Danzig, slowly reduced the clearance, finally getting a wheel cutter in there so as to reduce the clearance diameter." Be interesting if you could get the year. I'd rather have a 257 Roberts than a 243 Win, any day. The 98 was made for that case, the length, and taper. And it's lower pressure.

Here we go, thread found: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=3713&hl=stretch&do=findComment&comment=21192 Some additonal chatter here: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=3754&hl=stretch&do=findComment&comment=21439 Erfurt are the actions that are best left as lower-pressure.

I can't find the particular model designation, but I wouldn't invest much if it's one of the poorly manufactured ones. Wish I could find that thread. For that model, I'd go as low pressure as possible, and call it good. A well-made SR 98 should heat-treat fine. The thinnest part of any SR receiver (to include M-700 and M70) is the relief cut for the locking lugs.

Depends on the small ring 98. Some of the SR 98s, and it's been discussed on here before, had really deeply cut reliefs in the receiver ring for the bolt lugs; these receivers are prone to having the ring stretch with high-power loads due to the resulting thin ring wall at the relief. The design itself is fine; the manufacturer had a generous relief for the LR, and when it converted to SR, it didn't compensate. There are plenty of SR 98s that work effectively; the commercial Swedes were SR 98s chambered successfully for just about everything.

We had this same issue a while ago. Was it ever resolved?: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=11498&hl=virus&do=findComment&comment=63338

Went into NAPA today. They had Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for $5.80 a quart on select items. I bought a quart of 15w50. The 20w50 (for motorcycles) was a full $12.00. A quart fills many 4-oz oilers. I now have a long-term oil supply for firearms, unless someone determines that lard, hazelnut oil, or lamp oil is a better alternative. I'm sure the Colorado boys will have hemp oil as a superior product. Will I have to re-oil my rifles every 5,000 miles?

I have a jar of Renaissance Wax, and I've used it with success on an old raw brass bugle I have. Fingerprints eventually show, but it helped keep them away for a quite a while.I haven't delved into using it with firearms yet. I like the stuff, but application is slower than with oil. There are a couple reviews on YouTube on using it with firearms, and there was much enthusiasm. I might play with it in the future. The mention of Johnson's Paste Wax came from Finn Aagaard, I believe. He was talking about weatherproofing rifles, and talked about pulling the barreled action, waxing everything with multiple coats, then putting everything back. Always liked Finn, and his no-nonsense approach.

This is probably the most detailed report (and follow-ups) I've seen on gun oil, including M1 5W20: http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=271x1301

How about Mobile 1 5-20 Synthetic? http://m14forum.com/m16-ar15/46000-good-ol-gi-lsa-oil-breakfree.html

It's a perfectly innocent verb "coger", that simply means "to take". However, "take me", "take her", have much milder meanings in English compared to their Spanish equivalents.

I've always viewed CLP as an "all-in-one", and that's why the army uses it. I don't think it cleans as well as other products. I prefer using a separate "cleaner" and "preserver". For cleaning, a patch soaked in Shooter's Choice does wonders for copper fouling, and it's excellent for burnt powder as well. I'll use it for the bore and crevices. People swear by Kroil, but I've never tried it. For preserving and general lubrication, I'm not that picky; as long as it's safe for wood and sticks, I'm good. If I happen to have CLP on-hand, I use it. Rem-Oil, Hoppes, Browning Oil... It's all the same. I use it sparingly and am happy. For lucking lugs and such, I have and old tube of Shooter's Choice grease. It's red and looks suspiciously like Lucas bearing grease, but I doubt I could prove it. For all-out weather preservation, I'd probably forgo oil and use Johnson's Paste Wax. There's another product called Butcher's Wax; folks use it for preserving raw brass musical instruments and hold it Holy; might be worth a look. If LSA is cheaper, use it.

sock-oh, if I remember correctly. It's also "lew-pold", not "lia-pold". One of the rags had a whole list of jumbled names... Swore-off-ski, etc.

Those laptops must be damn old. Are you sure they won't support 64-bit? Fedora 24 supports 32 bit (and 64-bit, of course), and Chromium is in the Fedora/RPMFusion repos. That's actually a simple fix. I'd prefer a Linux alternative to trying to run XP/Vista. Absolute security nightmares. Chromium (and Chrome) definitely won't work on either XP or Vista. I ran Chromium for a bit, and it was tough to tell the difference between it and Chrome.

Why are you running a 32-bit OS? Were you running Fedora Linux, or is this on a Windows PC?

My recommendation is to uninstall Chrome on a 32-bit system. That 32-bit version of Chrome may run, but you won't see any security updates. You have two options: - Install Chromium: http://chromium.woolyss.com/ - Install Firefox: https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/products/ Chromium is a web browser based-on the (open) source code of Chrome. Google adds custom stuff atop the open parts of the Chromium code, but visually and operationally there isn't much difference between the two. You'll manually have to add flash (www.flash.com). Chrome add-ons work in Chromium. Firefox is my preferred browser. It does what I need, and it's open source in every way. As with Chromium, you'll have to manually add Flash. -- For Chromium, add the following extensions/add-ons: uBlock Origin, Flash Control, and Https Everywhere. - https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/ublock-origin/cjpalhdlnbpafiamejdnhcphjbkeiagm?hl=en - https://www.eff.org/https-everywhere%20 - https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/flashcontrol/mfidmkgnfgnkihnjeklbekckimkipmoe?hl=en For Firefox, add the following extensions/add-ons: uBlock Origin, Flashstopper, and Https Everywhere. - https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/ublock-origin/ - https://www.eff.org/https-everywhere%20 - https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/flashstopper/

$3500 worth of damage, eh? I'm hoping your insurance covered most if it. "I had to swerve several times before I hit him".

Is it for an existing stock, or are you starting from scratch? Is the magazine frame straightened, or does it retain its belly? For an existing stock, someone will have to help you modify the existing magazine to put a hinge on it. Putting a hinge on a military action was the staple of 'smiths from yesteryear; it's a straightforward process that will require some soldering or welding. From Frank de Haas' "Bolt Action Rifles", ".... but a Model 1903 Springfield guard can be installed. If this is done, the stock can be made as slim around the action as the Springfield.... Springfield guard screw hole-spacing is not correct for the Enfield action, but can be best taken care of by filling the rear guard screw hole with weld and drilling a new hole slightly further to the rear."

It's a beautiful revolver that deserves to be shot at the range. If you wanted a hotrod, a Ruger, a T/C, or Dan Wesson would have been the way to go. There's nothing to apologize for when it comes to punching paper with mild loads. I've always considered Hercules reloading data in the "moderate" range. This 1983 manual lists the 45LC, with a 200 grain jacketed and a 250 lead: http://www.mediafire.com/download/176fc50ii866mdb/Helcules_1983_-_Pistol_%26_Revolver.png I think "velocity" is the wrong question; rather, C.U.P. is what I'd be looking at. I'm seeing the 45 LC maxed at 12,600 C.U.P., right in the same territory as the 44 Special.

That makes sense. Everything was screaming "93 Spanish Mauser" except it being an FN; I'm not aware that FN made any pre-98 receivers, but hey, ya never know. I was actually hoping to see something unique; maybe FN did a weird limited production run of replacement receivers for the Turks or something. Heh. Thank you for checking.

Does it say "Fabrique Nationale" or "FABRICA de ARMAS"? FN = Fabrique Nationale d'Herstal FABRICA de ARMAS, OVIEDO = made in Spain, not FN Either way, it's a good looking piece of work.

Clinton beat Sanders, but as the result of 6 coin tosses: http://politics.slashdot.org/story/16/02/02/2045222/perfect-coin-toss-record-broke-6-clinton-sanders-deadlocks-in-iowa She won 6 of 6 tosses. With her luck, imagine what she could do with $10,000.... EDIT: Well, damn press excluded Sanders' coin tosses as well: http://www.npr.org/2016/02/02/465268206/coin-toss-fact-check-no-coin-flips-did-not-win-iowa-for-hillary-clinton So, of around 12 tosses, each got about 50%. That's more in line with the primary results (and the odds). It's almost as though the press was out to get her now too. END EDIT In related news, we are one step closer to the zombie apocalypse: http://www.foxnews.com/world/2016/02/02/new-zealand-hit-with-string-vampire-attacks.html?intcmp=hplnws First the Iowa caucus, now this. Bunker time.

Looking at you images, and from the description: - cock-on-closing - pre-98 shroud - pre-98 extractor - stripper-clip slot It's definitely a "pre-98" action: I'm guessing a '93 or a '95. It may be made well after 1898, but it's pre-98 design. Someone put some love into it. Let us know how it prints.

In this image: http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/7426172628/9370957/cc%20010.jpg_thumbnail1.jpg You can see the latch or "nub" of the cover, on the opposite side of the cover handle.

The Siamese action had a breech port (ejection port) cover. In its rear-most position, it covered the ejection port; it slid forward to allow ejection. I'm betting those dimples served as stops for a matched "nub" on the cover's underside. You can see the dust cover in this video: http://www.forgottenweapons.com/type-45-siamese-mauser/

This thread is a good read: http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?55038-match-chamber I'm seeing "Match" chambers having tighter throats, minimal dimensions, and -- more importantly -- leads designed for a particular bullet. From what I'm seeing, fitting Milspec ammunition in a match chamber is "iffy" depending on who made it; you might get a batch that works, and many more that may not. The fact that you're interested in trying different types of ammunition in your rifle probably means a "match" chamber isn't for you. I'm wondering if a custom set of dies for a given "standard" chamber would be more beneficial than investing in special reamers?