trobi

i have a tool making company who will machine the stripper guide off my reciever. if i want them to also machine the crest off the front , will they also need to machine the same amount of metal off the rear or will it not make that much difference. Will the reciever need to be reheat treated? Thanks.

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

since they compatable with the 98,are they better to use for intermediate rounds(308) or doesn't it matter. are they all the same and you just have to open them up for the 30.06. does the 30.06 and the 6.5x06 have the same o.a.l. to were you have to enlarge the mag.box?

They have bores that are tighter than standard bores. So, if you need to ream the chamber, you may need to be careful with it.

sailormilan, you left me a message in reference to having an extra barrel. i would be interested.

how much and do i need to get crowned?

you can e-mail me at trobi501@juno.com

thanks

tailgunner

did you leave the barrel at 26in. or cut and recrown

what is the consenses on the parker hale barrels that sarco sells. they list it as a 308 target barrel. it's 26in. long and in excellent condition. are these barrels any good?

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

Check to see if the bolt sleeve lock or spring is too long. Does the bolt sleeve lock slide in easily or do you have to use a tool to install it. You should be able to put it in with the pressure of your thumb. I had a few locks I had to trim down and chamfer the end. Just food for thought.

-Don

i went back and looked at the bolt sleeve lock and spring and was able to push it with my finger but it took alittle effort. i decided to put a shorter spring in it. this one with a wolf spring kit. reassembled the bolt and it made a big difference. it still isn't buttery smooth like my tika t3 but i live with it. i'll work on reciever smoothing it a bit and see if it gets better. when i sent this bolt out, i completly striped it and sent only what i wanted polished. when i got it back the bolt sleeve was togetherwith a spring. i'm wondering if he accidently put a wrong spring in it. does this sound logical? what is the best way of smoothing bolt rails?i don"t want to take to much off. i relly don't want to have to heat treat this reciever if i don't have to.

thanks to everyone that has contributed. you can bet i'll have other questions. in fact there will be another one on a barrel i see for sale

kingsman

i worked a little on bolt clouser problem tonight with little success. i used a dremel and worked on the bottom root and front root.maybr i'm trying to be to carefull.

if i put the stripped bolt in,it will fall into the locked down position with gravity. if i put the stripped sleeve on it will do the same. the safety tnnel shows no type of obstruction. the safety willmove easily in fact it seems loose.

now, if i completly assemble the bolt and insert it into the reciever with the safety off, i canpush bolt forward easily and it will stop when it touchs the back of reciever. as i close the bolt there is a little stiffness and then the bolt will initially lock . when it does this, the bolt will actually move slightly to rear. i then have to push bolt forward and down to lock bolt. when i go pull back i have to pull bolt up and willraise ( with effort) until it locks. i then hve to push a little forward to finish raising bolt up. it then pulls to the rear effortlly. if i repeart this with safety on everything works smoothly.

Now, i did notice when i had the reciever on my lap and watching everything move, that when i released the safety that it took more effort than i had expected and that the cocking piece would move up. when i putt the saftey on it was stiff and the cocking piece looked like it was being pulled or canted down.

am i still dealling with a binding safety. i don't have alot hair that i can pull out.

i was thinking about buying a stripped bolt and assemble it and watch everything function . hate to buy a bolt then i'll have to buy another reciever. can't have a lonely bolt.

anymore suggestions, kingsman

Did you notch the receiver? If so be sure to check it. It is supspicious that the bolt moves forward when you close it. Check to see that the bolt is not hitting the receiver notch and being moved forward.

Z

I did notch the reciever but I don't want to relieve it too much and ruin the reciever. How do I know what the limit is.? If I relieve the reciever won't it create a problem when I put the new stock on it?

kingsman

How about a process of elimination. First, eliminate any more grinding of the receiver, a ruined receiver and you may as well toss out the barreled action and start over as it's generally to expensive to restart.

 

Completely strip both bolts. Using a micrometer or Vernier caliper measure the diameter of the rear bolt ring (it's larger than the main shaft). If warped out-of-round during updates it may rub against the underside of the safety when in the on position. Rear of bolt body may be heat warped or have excess weld added behind the bolt handle causing bolt shroud to bind when fully forward.

 

Remove the bolt lock pin and string from the bolt shroud, then see if the shroud screws easily into the rear of the bolt. If not, out of round rear of bolt may be the problem, or excess weld on rear bolt root flat may be it.

 

If no problem here, insert safety into shroud and see if bolt handle turns from closed to opened position easily, try again with safety in the on position. It may be that the cut in the rear bolt ring, for the safety shaft is slightly out of line with the tunnel in the bolt shroud which aligns them.

 

Too little clearance on the bottom bolt root flat, or the rear blot root flat, would keep the bolt from rotating completely in line with the safety shaft tunnel in the bolt shroud, causing a wedging action between the safety shaft and it's cut in the rear face of the bolt. With the safety on, the wedge situation might be alieviated.

 

With safety removed, align shroud in the closed position on the bolt and see if you can see a misalignment. Will the safety shaft slide easily all the way into its tunnel or does it stop short of full seating. Remove bolt shroud and insert completely stripped bolts in receiver, try raising and lowering bolts. If the welder did not trim back enough weld on the front face of the bolt root flat, it will bind. If not enough weld removed from the bottom bolt root flat, it will not close completely. Both will cause misalighment of safety, binding results.

 

One of these tests will show the problem. Did you sent the barreled action along when you sent out the bolts out to be altered? If not welder may have been left to guess about final fit and function. If you did, he should correct the problem. Good luck, Bill

i did as you suggested and i found that the stripped bolt with the shroud on it i can't drop the safety in position. i can look in it and see back edge of bolt covering part of the tunnel. istarted to remove part of bolt root and it has gotten alot better. what i do notice is that when i start to close the fully assembled bolt it seems to lock and then it's stiff to close. as i close the bolt handle down it pulls the bolt forward. didn't notice this before handle work. by the way, all the bolt parts are original but did not send reciever when work was done. smith didn't requist it.

am i on the right track and just have to take a little more off the root

thanks, kingsman

can't open or close bolt easily with the safety off.it is very difficult. with safety on it cycles great.if i take the timney trigger off i still have the problem unless i have the safety on. this the original safety. i tried a second bolt and had the same results. Now, both of these bolt have had their handles worked on. 1 was forged and the other supposedly had a new handle welded on(i have my doubts) both look very profesional. i did grind the reciever down so that the bolt closes. is it possible that i have to grind some more? i don't want to grind to much or am i looking at other problems. the original bolt worked good before the work. does something need to be heat treated< seems like i've seen something like this before.

thanks, kingsman

OPERA NON VERBA

Z,

thinking of either 243, 6.5/55 maybe 308. i actually have 2 projects going on. was thinking about o 284 but don't know about that one. will the bolt face have to opened up and i don't know what the oal is

kingsman

trying to decide what manufacture of barrel to get. i was thinking of going with either a loather walter,shilen or douglas. i have more selection with shilen, i believe. whats everyone prefer? i had thought of a A/B barrel. i have one on a 10/22 that built into a 50yd , 10rd, 0ne hole shooter but going to 100+ shooting i think i will want /need better quality. any suggestions

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

yes, a milsurp cocking piece will fit the shroud. Where you can run into problem sis using a milsurp cocking piece on a commercial bolt. Some will not function.

thanks z , i figured you would know.

kingsman

i thought i'd ask this question, it might change my direction on build.

will a cocking piece from a 98 military bolt fit a commercial bolt sleeve(fn belgium)? if not,

can the cocking piece be modified to fit and how would one go about doing it?

saw one for sale but they don't have the cocking piece.

any help would be appreciated . thanks kingsman

the way that it is listed is;large ring98 w/ small ring threads. has thicker front ring than the true 98 reciever.it has standard mag well. does this describe the proper turk action

i have seen some turk m38 actions for sale. are the turks that are small ring that people are building up?

they want $75. for them. is that a fair price? want one to build on. also what would be a good short action to build on?

thanks, kingsman

OPERA NON VERBA

(deeds not words)

i'm still looking at options on rebarreling this 98/29. was thinking about either 257 or 6.5x55 but i was wondering about going to a wild cat cartrige. my questions are , if i have the reciever and bolt reheattreated could i chamber for 6.5x284 or would it be better(safer) to stay with a more moderate cartrige and keep pressures at 50,000-60,000 has anyone wildcatted a 98 before. would i have to do anything to the bolt face or mag box? just a passing thought.

thanks, kingsman

OPERA NON VERBA

If you have setback and correct it you need to have the receiver & bolt heat treated by a mauser expert.

if i don't have set back do i need to lap the bolt. what if i use a diff. bolt?

If you'r visual inspection is still unclear, but some layout die on the rear of the rear locking lug and close the bolt and open it a few times. If the layout die is rubbing off you probubly have some setback in the front locking lugs.

how neccessary is it to lap the bolt lugs? i have the original bolt but may use a diff. one. it depends on how i like the bolt handle when i get it.

if i do lap the lugs

1) is there info on the proper procedure and

2)how do you determine if the bolt and reciever need to be heat treated?

I have a 98/29 that I'm going to rebarrel. I've been seeing different post about setback.

1) How do you determine if you have or getting setback?

2) Will shooting low pressure rounds help?

I don't go to the range often but when I do I'll generally shoot 60-80 rds. I'm thinking about chambering for either 6.5x55, 257, or possibly 243. I want somethig with mild recoil but still has good balistic in case I want to hunt Bambi.

Sorry this is so long-winded, but I'm looking at possible problems, and trying to avoid them.

Thanks, kingsman

OPERA NON VERBA

[Edited due to multiple spelling and grammatical errors.]

i'm starting work(again) on a 98/29. was wanting to chamber for 308 or 7/08. been told that i may have feeding or chambering problems due to the legnth of the case. they say to stay with 6.5/55,243,257 . if i do this then i should'nt have this problem. a 257 or 243 is actually a tad shorter(oal) than a 308. is the case dimension where the problem is?

also, can anyone recomend someone who will rebarrel this for me? want to go with a lother/walther barrel

thanks , KINGSMEN

OPERA NON VERBA

i have started to temporialy assemble the 98/22 to see what if any problems that i might incur. i bought a timney sportsman trigger ,when installed the saftey will not engage. triger works great and did'nt have to do mods to the trigger guard. the inst. say to either build up at point 9 (cocking piece sear ) or some metal removed at point (10). being new to the configuration of a mauser bolt i don't want to start fileing on something i'm not sure of. would someone who has had this problem post a photo of what needs to be done to correct this problem. i believe point 10 is part of the cocking piece but then agian not sure.

thanks, kingsman

i agree with fritz but i have not tried my hand at glass bedding or free floating a barrel. would hate to scew up a perfectly good stock. would anyone be willing to glass bed for me. i will probably by a cheapo stock and practice but right now unable to manipulate fingers to good due to bad arthuritis.

kingsman

starting to accumilate parts to sporterize the 98/22 i have. going to chamber it for 6.5x55 or 25.06.

would like some suggestion on who has the easiest stock as for as ease of inleting or lack of. have seen bell and carlson and actioninovation. want one that is allready fully bedded with a alluminum bedding block. i know that h s precsion has them in their 2000 series but i don't know if they make one for mauser actions. i plan on making this a 300 plus yard shooter. any help will be appreciated

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

can anyone give me the proper procedure on the dissassembly of a 98 bolt? want to send outand have handle replaced.

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA