rdm1962

I took the other action I have and worked on the in letting. Without a barrel attached there are less "parts" to get in line. The front of the reciver was realy high and so was the tang. I worked on it for a few hours this afternoon and it is much closer. Uncle Grinch thanks for the carbon paper/ mallet idea I'll give it a try.

Thnanks for the help. I actualy have another Turk action (next project) that I will use as a "gauge". When it seats properly then I will make sure the Whelen seats with the barrel attached. I'll update soon. Ralph

O.K. I've been working on this Turk 35 Whelen for over a year now. Between my ADD (keep getting side tracked on other toys) and haveing to save up for parts it has taken this long. I picked up a stock from Richards Micro fit on their summer clearance sale. I have gotten the action inlayed and barrel free floated. My question is consrening fit on the trigger guard. When the action is in the stock and the trigger guard seated aginst the action there is a large lip around the trigger guard. I don't realy know how to driscribe it but the stock is too large in this area. Is this normal for their stock to be "thick"? Should I just sand and finish off the stock so it will be flush with the trigger guard? Should I seat the trigger guard and action flush with the stock without sanding? Glass bed them in their flush location? The pictures are of the action and trigger guard seated aginst each other. I realy don't want to jump in and start sanding. Yuo can't add wood back on later.

My Daughter had this happen to her. Some one stole her identy. You need to contact all three credit buerues and put a watch on your status. Ralph

Well I finaly got up enough nerve to do the metal finishing on my first build. I have had it back from Clemson for about 6 months now. Thanks again Bill. I have been going very slow on the final metal finishing and making lots of excusess as to why not to finish it. Yesterday I broke out the air gun and Aluma-Hyde II and got started. I did the trigger gaurd and bottom metal first. They actualy look fairly good in texture and finish. They are hanging in the garage in the 90*+ temps to aid in curing. My question is this: I know to protect screw holes, feed rails, chamber ect... from overspray but what about the muzzel? Should I plug the muzzel with somthing to keep overspray out of the rifeling? Will it hurt accuracy to have some in the rifeling? The barrel must be "broke in" first. The first 50 rounds are almost a waist anyways. Your thoughts please, Thanks Ralph

I just saw in sarcos' May add that they have a few Enfield recievers modified for 45-70. Has anyone ever built one? There seams to be plenty of parts for #4's around. This could be a project after I finish the other 3 on my work bench. Ralph

Looks awsome! I realy like the "2 tone" grip. Someday I will have to break down and buy a good knife and retire the old Western hunter I have. AzRednek; Don't scrape your knives on the side walk and dull them, Us TEAbaggers will report you for distruction of Government property that we are allowed to use. Ralph

If he is acting (not realy stoned)than an Emmy should be in his future. I never miss it. Ralph

Keeping happy toughts and good mojo going for you. Ralph

Just my luck, out of money again. I will keep an eye on it and may be they will still be there when I have some cash.

Mine came yesterday. Thanks for all you guys did to get this deal together. Ralph

I;m good. Thanks again Ralph

The Diamondback looks gteat! I have carried a 380 for years. I carry a Beretta Model 84. It's not realy small but the 12+1 mag is comforting. It's also strong enough to be hand loaded to mind range 9mm. In the summer I put in the pocket on a pair of cargo shorts and don't even know it there. Not to Highjack the thread but what are your thoughts on a snubbie in 327 Federal. I wanted something in the old 32H&R mag for years and couldn't find anything. The 327 has 38+P+ energy in a smaller package. Ralph "A bad day hunting or fishing is always better than a good day at work"

rivitir My Mo is on the way also. Ralph

The same goes for me also. I will be getting my MO and shipping info off this afternoon. Ralph

I have been reloading for 20 years and still don't consider myself an expert. Part of the issue with older cartriges is all the old firearms out there that are still being used. The 30-30, 7x57,8x57,ect... can be safely handloaded to higher pressures than factory ammo. Start off at 10% to 15% more below the max load. Work up in 1/2 grain incraments. Do test loads of 5 rounds at each weight. Look for sighns of pressure spikes. You should be abele to find a load that your rifle likes and gives you the range you want. Ralph

Sounds good to me, I'm still in. Thanks for you efforts on our part. Ralph

I am sorry to hear that a close friend is at the end of his journey. Your vet can handel this task for you if you need to end his suffering. I have gone bolth ways. I burried my German Wirehair out back were her house was. The house pets (several cats and a dog) were cremated. The rule that my wife and I have is that the first of us to go is cremated. The ashes of all pets and first to pass are burried with the suriver when the time comes. I will keep Copper in my prayers. Ralph

I would need 1 for a M38 Mosin Nagant and 1 for a Enfield #4 MK 1. I picked up a used one for my M48 at a gun show on Sunday. Ralph "A bad day hunting or fishing is always better than a good day at work!"

I just came across this thread. I would be in on a deal on M.N. trigger also, the one on my M38 sucks. I have my C&R on file with Brownells and Midway. Being a MO. resident, sales tax will nagated any deal at Midway. I will check with Brownells on a deal though. They don't list a Timney for Nagants only a Huber Concepts for $64.17 dealer price. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=43851/sku/Moslin_Nagant_Match_Grade__Black_Teflon I am new at this and have never herd of this trigger system. Are they worth installing? I would also love to upgread the triggers in my M48 & NO.4 MK.1. I am all about a deal and have expensive plans on a small budget. I will let you know what I find out. Ralph "A bad day hunting or fishing is always better than a good day at work!"

I use "Krud Kutter" (from Wally world) and 0000 3m steal (plastic) wool on the wood. I clean it afterwards with de-natchured alchol. WD40 and a med. tooth brush on the metal. Ralph "A bad day hunting or fishing is always better than a good day at work!"

5 seconds more and this site would be rated "R". I have to put my thumb over her to read the posts, but damn I like it.

Looks great!! Richards Microfit makes a very simmular pattern http://rifle-stocks.com/actions_available.htm I have a Turk with Clemson right now that I was thinking about putting in a black and grey. Seeing your just sold me on it. Ralph

I have read what everyone has said and see all sides of the discussion. As a first time builder here is where I stand. I got a shot out K. Kales Turk that started me down this road. It was my first none U.S. mil surplus. I started to look for a replacement barrel and came accross the all this information. Feeling that it would be more fun to try something new I started on a 35 Whelen build. I quickly found that there were some skills and tools that are better left to an expert (aka Clemson). I would rather send a receiver out to be D&T properly and I don't know how to weld. As we all know Turks have varring barrel theads. I did'nt want to get a barrel that wouldn't fit and be stuck with it. Bill is getting the correct barrel and finish chambering it. He just got it last week. I did a lot of things myself. Removed the stripper cilp hump and hand gaurd ring. I fitted a new FN bolt shroud and Bold trigger. I thinned the trigger gaurd. I think it is too thin but that is part of the learning curve. It took me 8 months to do this. I didn't have the time or money to dive in and knock it out in a few weeks. I will see how this goes and maybe do another, I am already looking for the next donner receiver. The next build I will try to do more. I plan on joining the COOP when I think I am at that point in my skills. Thanks Ralph "A bad day hunting or fishing is always better than a good day at work."

I passed on a K98 at a gun show today. The seller wanted $175 but I got him down to $125. He wasn't selling anythig just B.S.ing with some of the other "experts". It still had the military stock and all furniture that were stamped. Someone had D&T it, weaver mounts were installed. I couldn't see production code or date because they were under the mounts. Welded on a new bolt handel that looked realy good. A low profile safey was installed but didn't function corectly. The barrel was strong and had a good muzzle. The reason I passed on it was, it looked like someone had tried to remove and or install the barrel with a pipe wrench. There were teeth marks in each direction on the barrel at the front of the reciever. My consern was that a bubba bent or warped the reciever tring to do something with the barrel. We don't see K98's at this price very often regaurdless of sporterizing or not. Did I walk away from a deal or a new paperweight? What do you more experanced minds think? Ralph