pacrat

Flatulent Fowl,

Keeping $800 a month in yer pocket, and a great view, what's not to like? Use a quiet pellet gun to put free chicken in the pot is a bonus.

Flatulent Fowl,

Link is a no-go.

Ya might want to add these folks to your list.

I have dealt with them in the past.

www.eisenbran.com

Almost anything is possible if you throw enough money and time into the project. Whether feasable or not is always debateable.

NASA spent a great big bunch of taxpayers dollars to develope an ink pen that would write in all positions in outer space. Russians used a pencil.

1/8" is a huge amount. Sounds like Bubba been at that one. Does the Cocking Pc sear surface or the sear itself show signs of tampering on their bearing surfaces?

Just checked Midway..........rem 8x57 cases $108 for 200 cases brand new. Subtract the $40 for this rework kit = $68

How much is an eye worth?

Drilling an .o8o hole between the existing 2 berdan holes will leave a very large hole for expanding gasses to blow back through. Not a good thing IMO.

Of the 10's of 1,000's of rounds I have reloaded over the last 40 yr. I've only blown 1 primer. Cause was an oversize flash hole in a piece of surplus brass. Cost me $85 to have the bolt repaired on a rifle I purchased for $85 back in the 70's.

I'd take a pass on reworking primer systems. JMO

357 & 44 auto mags are both made from basic 7x57 head dim. of .473. 45 Win Mag is real close at .475 head dia. All 3 fall short of your lenght request though. Both auto mags are 1.298 and the 45 Win Mag is 1.198

All three would require no bolt face mods. Probably get away with just blocking magazine for short cases.

As the brass internally flows forward with the plasma from combustion at time of ignition it makes the neck area longer and thicker. As it is flowing forward it makes case thinner from web forward. Just how much per firing depends on how hot load is, shoulder angle, etc, etc. Sharper shoulder angled cases are less prone.

After 40 yr and several dozen epoxy bedding jobs. I have never used anything but Johnson's Paste Furniture wax. Another 40 yr and maybe the can will be empty. I might at that time consider trying another release agent.

Kinda like a bulldog pup. So ugly it's kinda cute

Here is my take,

Any carbon bearing ferros metal when heated then quickly quenched hardens. If heated then allowed to cool slowly it anneals. Non-ferros metals such as aluminum, brass, copper, etc are just the opposite. When heated then quickly quenched it is annealed. Many yrs ago while working in the aircraft industry we heated aluminum extrusions in an electric oven to a given temp for a set time. Then Immediately plunged them into a blast freezer for annealing. When held at that temp they remained soft. Parts were transported to machinists packed in dry ice. After machining, parts were returned to the oven and then allowed to cool slowly to reharden.

I use a cheapy propane torch standing on its base and a 3# coffee can half full of water. Holding cases by base turn in flame until they turn from brass color to "straw" color in the neck/shoulder area then drop them into coffee can. The more (overbore) the case the more often they need annealing. This process prevents split necks and often more than doubles case life due to removing the work hardening caused by firing and resizing.

I have a Spanish 93 mfg. in 1896 with the hinged trigger guard with the push button as pictured.

Take it to a local Chrome Shop. Chromed parts are first nickled then chromed. For repair they are unchromed and unnickled then polished and replated.

Just my 2 cents,

With oily hard to glue woods like teak and ebony I use 1/4-20 allthread and epoxy instead of wood dowels. +1 on the use 2.

Brokegun, Thanx for the info on heater.

I'm new to this forum, but am guilty of skulking for a few months.

I'm planning on making a Warner/Brokegun hy-bred oven. I have a 3 ft section of 8" dia. galvanized duct with heat insulation. Your heater set up sounded better suited to purpose.

I built an oven for baking finishes several years ago following the Steve Wagner plans using the dimmer switch and it flopped.

 

What happened was the dimmer switch could not control the 110 volt element that I was using. So I went a whole another direction

 

What I did was to make a wooden box out of 1x8 pine about 8 inches wide and 42 inches long with a lid on hinges. (Think of a tool box shape)

 

I then had a local Heating business bend me a box shape piece of metal without ends that would fit into my wooden box but give me about ¾-1 inch of clearance on each side.

 

I also had them cut and bend pieces for the ends that I riveted to the larger piece to form an open top box, plus a piece for the lid.

 

Next I took apart a working 1000 watt 110 volt milk house heater saving the porcelain stand offs, element and controls.

 

I drilled holes about an inch above the bottom of the metal box filed them to shape and mounted the stand offs in a zig zag pattern that would accommodate the length of the element.

 

I then attached the element and ran the wiring to the controls I had mounted on the outside of the wooden box in a standard electrical receptacle.

 

I drilled holes and mounted the controls on a blank cover plate.

 

The way I was able to mount the smaller metal box into the larger wooden box was by cutting strips of wood about 3/4 x 3/4 to act has supports at the top only.

 

This hung the metal box inside the wooden box and gave me spacing for heat protection and in case i needed insulation.

 

I did the same to the wooden lid so it would set down into the metal part of the box.

 

Although I now had a working oven I found that I needed insulation.

 

The same heating business carried the White High heat Bat type insulation rated to 1000 degrees.

 

I cut and then placed a ¾ inch thick piece of insulation between the metal box and the wooden box.

 

I also put a layer for the lid.

 

 

It wasn’t that expensive to have the metal bent since I was riveting the ends myself and buying the metal from the same guy.

 

The milk house heater parts worked almost perfectly the controls are far better than using a dimmer switch.

 

I still have to be careful and keep the settings low because what I have is more like a Kiln but I can do barreled receivers and old shotguns now.

 

Its possible to buy a good used heater and have very thing you need for less money than buying a good Dimmer switch.

 

Even if you bought a new heater it would be cheaper than just one of wagners heating elements.

Sorry didn't mean to copy whole post. Puter illiterate.

Please explain what a "milk house heater is"? I can't find either it or the light bulb screw socket type that Wagner used in his oven.