Thor

So what is kasenit good for? Other than transfer money from my pocket to Brownell's pocket. (:-)

I bought a can of that over 2 years ago, but have been afraid to try it. I wish I knew more about it.

Yeah Guy, I thought that was the surface you were talking about. So the culprit wasn't a file, it was peening and galling. Magnifying glass is a wonderful thing, except... You can't hide the truth. So now you are in the market for a bolt and can only hope you get one that headspaces reasonable. Yeah, the heat of the bolt job would have taken the surface hardening out. But what would have softened the cocking piece? I use a heat sink and also use heat paste on bolt jobs and believe in working fast. The longer the job, the greater the risk.

Thanks. I'm sure I've seen it before but ignored it. Some of these threads prompt me to check such things.

Guy, are you talking about the underside below the part that fits into the notch? Why would anybody bevel that part? Now I'm really puzzled, but yes, you need a new cocking piece. That camming surface is surface hardened. Dollar to a donut the surface is worn and needs to be reheat treated. I've never done it, and wish I had that skill. Does anybody know the spec for the firing pin protrusion in fired position? A couple of times (out of several hundred), I've had a punctured primer. It's scary to say the least. It would be good to check all my Mausers to make sure they are within spec.

The Mauser design is as 680guy describes, as early as 1891, regardless of whether Argentine, Spanish, Swede or even into the 98 series. It was part of the "MAUSER" design to lift the firing pin into a "safe" position while cycling. Mauser desired to avoid a slamfire. If you have a Mauser which has a protruding firing pin in the open position, you have a defective situation. I would suggest that probably the sear surface on the cocking piece has been filed down enough that tolerances have changed. In that case, the firing pin needs to be shortened to correct the dimensions. Racepres is right on in saying the firing pin needs to be measured, both in the safe position and also in the fired position. It should not protrude in safe position, and should not penetrate deep enough to puncture a primer. Guy, I would suspect a filed sear surface more than a pinged notch. It is just hard for me to see how the notch could be pinged that much. I don't have a Spanish Mauser at the time, but I do remember the one I owned a few years ago, and a couple of others belonging to friends, and I can't remember them being different than my Swedes in design. Certain things in Mausers is like Gospel, canonized. Lifting of the firing pin to the safe position is part of that Gospel.

Guy, one thing for certain, in your last post you made it very clear to me that you fully understand the function of a Mauser and your description supports what I know. I'm not familiar with the DUETSCHE WAFFEN-UND MUNITIONSFABRIKEN BERLIN models, but sounds like what I'm familiar with in Swedes, Loewes and 98's. (Is this one like a Swede and Spanish 95 or closer to the Loewe 91 actions?) As you say, the firing pin does fall against a different notch in the fired position and the open bolt position, and the firing pin should not protrude in the open position. I can understand your concern and in fact am surprised you didn't experience a slamfire while closing the bolt. Again, I don't believe that is the problem with your accuracy. Check your scope again, check the bedding for binding, start from scratch on all of it. I've bought "bubba" rifles before, some as you say, finish looked good but shot like crap and closer examination showed problems. I do know that bedding and crown is first place I start. I also like a free floating barrel on sporter stocks. Any binding is going to cause problems. The bolt problem, if warped, could possibly have caused irregularities in the lugs, but that's usually a "finetuning" issue, getting 1/4" MOA, not just trying to keep it on the target and inside 6 inches.

I somewhat doubt that is the cause of your scattered (non) groups. That crown may not be as good as you think. Regardless of that, if that bolt was exposed to enough heat to warp it, I certainly wouldn't trust it.

Well, after sleeping on it, I figured out how to do it in a drill press, guaranteed to work. I thought it would take a jig in a mill machine to set up. Take longer to explain than to do it, but if you have a drill press with vise mounted, it's a piece of cake. I just needed a night of sleep. Will, if you can't get the windage dialed in, look at the Millet Rings.

Will, Now there's a deal you can't refuse. z1r, sounds like you have the equipment to make it right.

Will, no way was I recommending the kwik-site. They are far from satisfactory. I just wanted you to see what was a possible explanation for the holes the way they are. You won't know about the B-Square until you try. $5 is not that great of a loss. Like you say, it would cost more to send it back than it's worth. If it does mount but alignment is off enough to prohibit windage adjustment within limits of the scope, look at the Millet windage adjustable rings. I have an Arisaka that I took the scope as far as I could and still could not sight in. I put the Millet's on, centered the scope crosshairs and set windage with the Millet, and then fine tuned the cross hairs with scope adjustment. Keep the epoxy procedure in mind. I use it on ALL my scope mounts anymore, even when I have both screws. Too often, people have scope problems because of loose screws. The epoxy gives you the extra edge of the scope not moving in case screws loosen. I also use loktite or fingernail polish on the screws. If I miss a deer, it's going to be because of some other problem, not scope.

Will, yes, you've got one of the better ones. Loewe in Berlin means German metalurgy and craftsmanship, much better than Spanish metal and craftsmanship. I have an Argentine made by Loewe. That being said, I may have to back up on some of what I said about it being similar to the Swede. Trigger and bolt is totally different. However, I used the same Weaver bases on my Loewe as what I use on my Swedes. That part will be the same. What are your thoughts on my suggestions; the epoxy etc? Does it look feasible as you look at it now? Yes, at that price keep the B-Square. Someday you'll come up with a rifle to use it on.

Will, Look at this link. http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0018022111 It is the kwik-site see thru ring/mounts. It is what I suspect your rifle was drilled for. I am not fond of them at all. Too many problems, been there done that. Yes, you could drill the B-Square rail, but getting the holes accurately spaced and straight in the base is difficult at best. You could do it, but it might not be successful. If you are off any, you will shoot right or left and not be able to adjust the windage. Millet makes a windage adjustable ring, but the whole process is almost like rebuilding a car, by the time you drill the base, install the Milletts, etc, etc, etc. I'm getting nervous about recommending anything until we confirm some things. Your rifle is a 93 Spanish Mauser? So far you have only said 93, I want to confirm what it is. Measure the receiver. If a 93 Spanish Mauser, it should measure 1.3 inches diameter, and should look a whole lot like a Swedish Mauser. Now is where I get nervous in recommending. Get your money back on the B-Square. The vendor will usually do it if you tell him it is not applicable. He may charge a restocking fee. If that were my rifle, and was trying to get it shootable, I would order the Weaver #55 base for the rear and the Weaver #46 base for the front. These bases are only about $3, so go ahead and order the #45 base while you are at it. It's the one that fits the large Mauser like a 98. The difference between the 45 and 55 is height. Select the rear base which works best, the 45 or 55 (height difference) with those holes .500" apart. Select a hole on the front (receiver) that will work best with the #46 base. Yes, the hole spacing on the base is .850" as compared to the .500" on the receiver and only one hole will work, but we'll get to that. Put everything together with the one screw in the front, and see how the alignment and height works. Once you are satisfied, break it back down and reassemble. Only this time, use epoxy on the front mount, the one with only one screw. Make sure and clean both surfaces good with alcohol or PVC cleaner to remove grease or oil. Then go sight it in and go hunting. The epoxy and one screw will very adequately hold the scope. If you ever do decide to remove the front base, a whack with a plastic mallet will pop the epoxy loose, or a little heat, like a bernson burner, will make the epoxy release. I know the epoxy will work because I have a rifle that I broke a tap on the front hole, and can't get it out. I glued it down for a couple of years and used a high power scope. Doing more brush hunting, I decided to hunt iron sights and took it off, with a plastic mallet. I just last month remounted it and will hunt brush with a low power scope. Most of my hunting is brush but I like a scope to pull in a little extra light, and cross hairs work better with my old tired eyes. I have other scoped rifles if I want to hunt the powerline right of way or fields. My wife wants me to work on taxes now, so I'll sign off this for a while.

I'm checking Swedes which should be same as your 93. I gotta agree with the old fart, it sounds like your rifle was D&Ted for two piece mounts. However I also agree with z1r on the spacing of the holes on the receiver. We won't quibble of accuracy of calipers or eyesight, but I measure about .850" on the receiver, and that is for both Weaver and Leupold type mounts. The back holes on Weaver measure .500". The Leupold would be closer. I didn't bother to measure, I feel sure that's not what you have. My guess is that you have the two piece mount/ring combo mounts. The base and ring is one piece. The ones that I have seen generally have same hole spacing front and back, as I remember. But those type mounts generally require you grind down the charger hump. Has the hump been ground down? The combo mounts are not my favorite, especially for Mausers. They are the pits to work with and not same quality.

I sure hope we can talk you out of this. First of all, the 6.5x55 is an excellent rifle. I've been into them for about 10 years now, and have my share. The 6.5 penetrates like crazy, has the best sectional density of any bullet out there, and shoots almost as flat as the 270. Don't let anybody tell you different. Second reason I would hope to talk you out of it, Swedes in original condition are getting fewer and fewer. If you want a sporter, I'll trade you one. Better choice anyway, would be a 98 action which will handle just about any deer chamber you could want, even up to a Whelen 35. Anything built on the .473" case, same as 30-06, will work beautiful in the 98 action which was built for the 8x57, granddaddy of 90% of American deer rifles. There are still lots of Turks and Czechs out there to sporterize. There were over 11 Million 98's made. Barely over 1/2 million Swedes. Swedes are becoming collectors, not sporters. As already stated, the Swede was built for 45,000 c.u.p.. That's equal to about 51,000 psi. The 98 action will handle 65,000 psi easy, which covers all the modern chambers.

I've run this question by in other forums and not gotten much response. Question has arisen on another thread here, but rather than hijack the thread, I figure we need to talk about it in a new thread. Reading posts on gas ports prompted me to check my Mausers. All of my Swedes have a small port (.110") at the 2 oclock position with the bolt closed. Two have no port on bottom. The rest have a .110" port on bottom, and one has a second hole .200". Does anybody know the history of the Swedes to know when they started putting the bottom port in, and how the one got the second port. It is not the newest, in fact it is 1916 with 3 rifles newer than it, including a 1943 Husqvarna. Secondly, I have a 1891 Loewe action, presently with a Swede barrel on it. There is NO gas port anywhere. Could a machinist safely mill a port hole in the rifles with no hole, and maybe even drill a second hole. I doubt I have a bit that would touch it, so would not do this myself. In examining the 98's, there are two oblong gas ports and both are sizable. So properly done, ports should not weaken the bolt. I'm thinking of at least two .110" ports and possibly .200". Has anybody done it?

Problem: I gave my 6MM which I bought in 1968 to my son for his 18th birthday. I built a 6MM on a Turk but let a buddy talk me out of it, traded for a K98 no less. I want a 6MM, no givaway, no trade this time, I want another 6MM of my own. I have a 1891 Loewe (Argentine) action with a Swede barrel on it now. The Swede brass at the web is about .005" larger than .473" brass and another .003" larger than 7.65. That's a total of about .008" larger at the web. The Argentine rails, built for the narrower 7.65, hold the fatter brass down lower and the bolt will not catch it to cycle on up and out of the magazine. Yes, I could widen the rails, but have a mental block on that. I had a bad experience a few years ago with an Ishapore that wouldn't cycle right after I modified the mag rails. The 6MM ammo will cycle through the Loewe beautifully. Already tried it. A Remington takeoff barrel has enough meat to turn down and rethread to fit. So I know this will work from a gunsmith point. Question is, how much pressure will the Loewe handle? Will it handle the pressure of the 6MM? What is the chamber pressure of the 7.65 Argentine?

I love that bolt. I have a Swede with bolt almost identical. My first attempt was a disaster. A Spanish 95 with the wide arc bolt. We straightened it, crudely, then cut and turned down. Looks like crap. In looking at the pedigree, Brazilian, Turk, 93/95, etc, what do you call it? I didn't realize all those parts would breed together. I have a Loewe rifle, but it is an Argentine, a totally different breed. I rebarreled it with a Swede barrel and call it a Swedentine. Of course, my Swede barrel on Turk action is a Twede.