RifleMan

Sounds good to me. Yeah, I'd prefer to be able to run the bolt in both OFF and ON safe. But the big deal for me is that the safety appears to flip on the right side of the action - where it's best for a righty (me being a righty and all, this is a good thing). For a scout type rifle, I don't care too awful much about clearing a scope, but more about being able to disengage the safety without breaking my firing grip too badly. With the original Mauser safety, man, it's a hand-twister to try to flip it off in a hurry. Anyway, the Timney Buehler-style safety comes in Monday. I'll probably take a look at how it works, and maybe be able to try it out life fire next weekend. Thanks again, as usual! -Nathan

Anybody have any experience using one of the Buehler (sp?) Low-Swing Safeties (especially those made by Timney)? I just ordered one for my scout project (based on a Yugo M48). I didn't want to go with a side-safety trigger, but then I understand that the Buehler low swing either locks the bolt or not (no intermediate, safe-with-bolt-move, position). I think I'd rather have a positive firing pin safety than a trigger safety, even if it means sacrificing the intermediate position. Anyway, it's the first small step I'm going to take in getting pieces together to convert this puppy into a nice .308 scout rifle. If they're more trouble than they're worth, I can return it and buy a side-safety instead (either a Model 70 style or a trigger safety). I just hate the ergonomics of the standard Mauser safety. I look forward to hearing about your experiences. Thanks! -Nathan

Pretty nice looking rifle! I would assume since you ground off the stripper-clip hump, you're planning to mount a scope over the action (or you just like the smooth look, I guess). Have you considered building it with a scout scope mounted in front of the receiver? That rifle looks like it would make a helluva pseudo-scout. It might make it easier to extract the rounds by hand, too. I wonder how hard it would be to weld up and fabricate a magwell that would actually lock the Mini-14 mags solidly. Also, how well do the rounds feed from the rear like that, and does the mag need to be inserted back so far to the rear (I'm guessing the answer is "yes" since you mentioned a friction fit). Cool project! Keep it up, and keep us posted! -Nathan

Clemson - Good point about the headspace and the bolt handles. I hadn't thought of that. I'll probably have to send the bolt out for the new handle, since I don't know thing #1 about welding yet, but, as you say, that's longer term. I'll just shoot them as-is for a while, until I can gather together the needed tools to do this project. First thing I need: a new house to set up shop. ;o) Thanks again guys. -Nathan

The rifles came in yesterday, and I had the chance to inspect them last night. Everything looks GREAT. The "cracked stock/dark bore" is actually just a dark bore alone - I could find no cracks (hairline or otherwise). There're a couple of small chunks out of the stock, but nothing too bad at all. It came with a few of those retail trigger locks (you know, the red button-together type you see at Big 5). The other Mauser is in great shape as well, as expected. This one also came with a bayonet (maybe it was supposed to, but I didn't know it). The SKS is pretty decent as well. It came with a bayonet as well, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what to do with it. The SKS has a built-in, swing-out bayonet already. This other one has a sheath and everything. Nothing has any obvious rust pitting, either below or above the woodlines. Since I don't have 8x57 headspace gauges, I'll take them to the local smith on Saturday for a quick check and then go shooting on Sunday morning. Can the bolts between an M48 and a 24/47 be interchanged without trouble? The M48 has a bent handle, but the rest is so-so, while the 24/47 is in great shape all around. Thanks, Nathan

Okay, Gents, here's what I end up with. I just bought a Bosnian cracked stock/dark bore for ~$70, and a Yugo 24/47 Very Good for ~$100. I figure I can learn a bit on the Bosnian and get used to the tooling and whatnot, and if I totally hose it, oh well. Then I'll be more prepared to handle the Yugo. In the meantime, I'll have a decent Mauser shooter to play with. Who knows, if I end up liking the work done to the Bosnian, I may just keep the Yugo as-is. Question: Does anyone know any specific troubles with the Bosnians? I don't know if this has already been asked, but I'm wondering if they normally would require re-heat treatment or something like that (read: something I cannot perform at home). Are they generally good, safe actions? I also went ahead and bought an SKS in decent shape. I don't remember well enough if these are good or not, but they were fun 10 years ago, so I'm taking a chance. -Nathan

Fritz Yeah, I completely missed that line in the July Specials email. Thanks for the heads-up! At that price I can just about justify buying two.

Great. So for intents and purposes, the 98k and the M48 are the same action? I'm talking in terms of dimensions on the receiver thread/chamber area (I realize that the M48 is about a quarter inch shorter overall). I guess maybe what I should do is get one of those 3-fer specials and start messing around. I'll start with the M48 or the Bosnian Mauser, and go from there. Thanks again for all the replies. I have a lot to learn.

Ah, I think I finally see it. Without seeing it in person, of course. So the barrel basically must be able to fit within the "C" ring, and also have a relief cut for the extractor (almost making it a "C" shaped cut in the breach end of the barrel)? The big question is, if the gun originally had the safety chamber with the extractor cut, do I need it when rebarreling? I'm not clear on this point. Will the rebarreled gun still be robust enough, or will the strength or integrity suffer? I think I need to re-read the Kuhnhausen book, now. -Nathan

Mexico has an Air Force?

I'm in Campbell, near San Jose. That's what I had in mind, and was all set to get one, until someone on another board mentioned the safety cut in the new barrel, and that I'd need a lathe to do the cut. Would it be possible for anyone to post pictures of this "feature" in comparison with a regular k98? I'm having a hard time visualizing it, and it sounds like a lathe won't do it. But then, this is new to me. Thanks again for the replies. -Nathan

sonic1 - I'm in California.

First off, let me say - I'm in NO great rush to complete this project. What I'm after is the decision of the right action to use that will be the best for the project. I plan to buy a full Mauser now, shoot the crap out of it, just because the surplus 8mm is available right now, then, later, rebarrel it, etc. At this time, I'm VERY poorly equipped - I live in an apartment with no provision for a real workshop, but am moving soon. After I move, my goal is to have at least a mini mill and mini lathe in a workshop, plus all the other standard accoutrements, like vices, a grinder, etc. Right now, I have access to a CNC mill, manual mill, manual lathe, and various shop tools, but it's at the whim of the shop supervisor at work (his whims so far have not allowed me to use the shop, but he keeps telling me that I'm allowed, just not "today"). So there you go... when I get better access to the proper tooling, this will be my project. For the immediate future, I'm just interested in buying the right gun so I don't spend a lot of money (and safe space, which I'm nearly out of, by the way) on something that won't work very well/very easily for my plans. Thanks for the responses so far! -Nathan

Hey all. I've been lurking for a bit, reading up on some of the various Mauser projects, and getting ideas for a Scout Rifle I want to build. Well, I've got the Kuhnhausen book, and a C&R, but I'm not totally clear on the easiest Mauser action to rebarrel. I've heard things like "safety breach" and "heat treat," and frankly, I think I only have about 80% of the picture. So I'm asking for your collective help. Here's what I want to do: 1. .308 Win Mauser 2. Custom stock (have a Boyd's "rifle carving stock" - essentially a near blank) 3. Want a scope mounted forward of the breach Here's what I THINK I need: 1. Some kind of 98 action. I've been told that the vz-24 or the real McCoy 98k is the way to go, to avoid having to cut the safety breach into the new barrel, but how hard is it to cut, really? 2. Length of blank picatinny or weaver rail to mount onto the receiver. 3. New barrel blank or rough-chambered barrel. My basic idea is: 1. Remove the barrel. 2. Chamber a new barrel. 3. Thread the barrel and receiver to fit tightly. 4. Fit the barrel to the receiver, headspace (possibly cut the "safety breach" thingy?). 5. Replace a couple fire control parts with what I want (new trigger, gaurd, hinge plate, etc.) 6. Finish the metal. 7. Inlet the stock, glasbed, finish. How far off am I? What would be the best action to buy, with the above in mind? What tools can I get away with NOT having? What tools are essential, given the above? I really appreciate your responses. I want to do this right the first time, and value the experience of others very highly. Thanks, Nathan