TLynn

Kevin has limited access to a computer these days. But he is okay. I saw him on another web site a little earlier this evening. He himself was regretting that he cannot go to all the places he used to.

As I recall Kevin and his close family doesn't live in London so unless he was there at that particular time he should be okay. However, that doesn't mean he might not have relatives in London. A very cowardly attack. Something that only criminals stoop to.

Karl, truly am sorry to hear about you missing out on the .22 revolver. fritz, did you ever shoot that Rohm? I've still got grandmothers RG11 or 12 (can't for the life of me figure out which even though it's sitting in the original box with paperwork) but after what I hear from everyone just can't seem to want to go shoot it. Pretty little thing though.

fritz, Truly if I could of moved the posts over without raising my post count I would of - but oh well things happen I guess As a good friend of mine would say ---- it'z all good! Do you think if I say it enough it will come true? FC, that's what spammers do - wait until they think everybody is asleep and attack the board. Unfortunately... You might consider once you get most of the members moved over and if this board supports it is to go to where the person needs to be approved before they can start posting. I realize that may not be in the spirit of the board as you and all of us would like it, just might become a necessity. If the person is a spammer they usually don't wait around or come back.

Get to posting more so you won't be labled newbies! Seriously, FC probably made them moderators because 1) they at least had an inkling how to do it - having done it before; and 2) because they were willing to take on the job. Without the willingness to do it you'd have problems - especially when the trolls come a knocking - and believe me they will. They always do.

Nice job!!!

Looks to me like you had a wonderful time. What a grand way to spend a day and to introduce another generation to the wonderful world of shooting. You must be one proud father.

nope afraid I can't see the picture.

Horsefly, sad to say I've owned the dang thing darn near 3 years and have yet to take it out to even fire it. I'm so ashamed of myself It's a nice little handgun - tears apart really easy (in fact almost scary how easy). You'd think I'd be gung ho to go out and shoot it. I find myself almost afraid of it for some reason. I don't have a clue as to why. I like my 1911's well enough and have no problem with them at all. I think I'm getting old and because it's different just do not want to hassle with it. Either that or it's because I was sick right after I got it for a space of time. So for now it's a safe queen but hopefully this year will be the year it goes out (after all I've got like 8 mags for the dang thing).

I agree with you Tye. Whatever religion, whatever color one may be. May we all have a good 4th of July and remember what this country truly stands for.

Well in regards to how they are listed with the San Francisco BBB - I've got to say this FC - don't believe everything you read. In this case it's not true. Much as it pains me to say it - our beloved government (okay it doesn't pain me that much to say this) is notorious for not being able to get it's head out of it's 4th point of contact to get anything correct. This is just another example. That and the fact that the person who posted that information was looking at a web site that was not updated, nor do I think run by the San Francisco BBB. Irregardless, ezboard does need to be taken to task and given a huge migraine (I hate migraines since I get them a lot). I think more people should stand up and say enough is enough!

I admire you for doing that. However, you should know that ezboard does not claim to be a non profit aka charity status type of institution whatever you want to call it. It is run for profit and so states. There's been a lot of misinformation floating around all over the internet and I'm not so sure you've been informed correctly. Needless to say I still think you've done the right thing. They did lie, they really don't have the right to hold on to the money in the Community Chests irregardless of the language in their TOU. When the money does get put back in the Community Chest I would suggest you contact each individual person who donated and if they donated by credit card have them (if possible) send notice to their credit card agency disputing this charge saying they did not receive the service they were supposed to receive. If nothing else it should give ezboard a hell of a headache!

mrbeaz 1 Posts: 17 (6/12/05 9:33) Reply Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have accumulated a mid-war type 99 Arisaka receiver, and aftermarket sporter stock. After wheelin and dealin, this cost me practically nothing. So I was wondering. what are some options. I could find a original 7.7 barrel, or does anyone know if a 6.5 barrel will work? A re barrel may be cost prohibited, but I'm just getting ideas now. I wouldn't mind having a groundhog gun, would something along the lines of .22-250 work? I heard of a guy around with a jap of that caliber. Any other cartridge suggestions welcome. Indian Creek 1 1 Posts: 59 (6/12/05 11:25) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- About 40 years I had Ralph rebarrel one to 270 Win. for me. It was a real shooter but, that safety was really terrible. I got rid of that one and never had the urge for another one. A.J. lmc1016 1 Posts: 2 (6/15/05 0:24) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i would rebarrel with a 6.5x50 and ream it to 6.5x55. silent souls leave .308 holes. riceone 1 Posts: 209 (6/15/05 5:40) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6.5x50 barrels will not screw in T99 actions. One is metric and the other standard threads. Since Grafs sells 7.7 cases at reasonable prices, (100 for $29), you can put an original barrel back in the action and reload for the 7.7. I sure that some barrel makers have barresl for the T99 in regular calibers. Be advised that you are spending money on making something that will have practally no resale value but if that is what you want then go to it. I have a T38 re-barreled to 257 Roberts. Nice rifle and I'm pleased with it and that all that matters. I sort of like the knob safety, works fine for me under a scope. I use my thumb and first two fingers to put it on and just roll it off with my thumb. I am very fond of Japanese actions and they are practically in destructiable. riceone. Indian Creek 1 1 Posts: 61 (6/15/05 7:55) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- riceone is right about them being practically indestructible but the safety as I have said is not very handy,and they are lacking in the looks department but I did take a few deer and also a few hogs with mine before I got rid of it , both in 7.7 cal. and after rebarreling to 270. A.J. claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 124 (6/15/05 12:56) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i think ershaw makes barrels for them bilurey1 1 Posts: 26 (6/26/05 19:03) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Type 38 and 99 actions are very simple and among the strongest of all actions ever designed. Post war "blow up" tests by P.O. Ackley and Douglas Barrel Co./H.P. White Labs confirmed this. However, the machining in all but pre war M38s is pretty crude and when combined with it's less than sleek looks and costs of conversion, it's not often selected for that purpose. If you have to find a decent 6.5 Jap barrel and have it installed, you're going to exceed the cost of a completely serviceable, abd complete, milsurp. Sell the action, put the money towards a decent German, Czech, Austrian, Swede, or FN milsurp Mauser with a serviceable barrel in 6.5, 7, or 8mm and go with it, as is. No alterations necessary if "meat" hunting. Military sights are often a better choice than some of the more expensive custom sights which generally are pre set for only one distance. Inexpensive replacment parts are readily available as is plinking or hunting ammo. Fifty years ago I bought a completely sporterized 6.5 Jap for $50 and got into handloading so I could afford to shoot it. Saw that rifle at a gunshow two years ago for $150, looking just as it did the day I first bought it. Brought back a lot of memeories, but, I didn't buy it back. Too many Mausers laying about for the same price. Bill AzRednek 1 Posts: 375 (6/26/05 21:03) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I knew a now deceased part-time gunsmith, a semi-retired machinist that built a beautiful Arisaka. He built it to show off his skills. It was rather unique. Mannlicher type stock, butter knifed bolt handle and adjustable target peep sights. I can’t remember if it was 6.5 or 7.7 he left it in the original caliber but he turned and shortened the original barrel down to a sporter configuration. He chromed the bolt assembly, black chromed the extractor and did a high polish blue of the entire rifle. Don’t know if he ever shot it but it was a beautiful show piece. I suspect he chose the Arisaka because of the challenge and the desire to have something unique to show off his skills. Although he claimed he was a machinist by trade, he went to work as a machinist for the old Sperry Rand corp. and wound up in management, originally supervising the machine shop, then crawled up the corporate ladder. After he retired rather comfortably with a fat pension and investments in the company’s profit sharing and stock, he had to tinker and took up gun smithing. Unfortunately he passed away with cancer, he donated all his tools, blueing tanks and gun parts to a gun smithing school in Prescott Az before his demise. riceone 1 Posts: 210 (6/28/05 20:43) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are some Arisaka's that go back to the 70's that I have done. I'm not a gunsmith, just a hobbyist. Most any sporterizing will cost more that you can sell the gun for, but its the challenge and fun I like. Its what ever turns your knob. riceone. bilurey1 1 Posts: 29 (6/28/05 22:24) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nice workmanship, and good eye for line. Are any of these converted to 6.5/257 Savage? A fairly simple conversion which gained widespread use after WW11 when Jap ammo was impossible to find. I had a Lyman 310 tool/die set for this caliber years ago. The 6.5 Jap is a good cartridge as is, with heavier bullet weights. Accurate with minimal recoil and muzzle blast. The Brits and the Russians each bought several thousands of these when the design was new. The first Russian submachine gun was designed around this cartridge. However, adding a barrel to any action is expensive, and might be wise to pick one which won't drive you crazy trying to find the components. Bill Doble Troble 1 Posts: 532 (6/29/05 7:12) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nice Arisakas, riceone. The Mannlichers are particularly interesting. Can you post a close-up of how you handle the muzzle end of the Mannlicher stocks? Do you add metal at the end? I am Bubba (but learning) riceone 1 Posts: 211 (6/29/05 19:54) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The top rifle is a T2 with an o3A3 barrel with a 308 insert. Second is a 6.5 barrel chambered to 6.5x57, third is 7.7 fourth is T38 rebarreled to 257R and bottom is still in 7.7. I came to admire mannlichers from the bottom rifle in this picture - it an 98 Mauser still in 8x57 that I had done in Germany in 1955. I do not like steel nose caps so I just inletted the barrels close and on one I glass bedded to the end. The other two are just action and maybe 2" barrel. But the barrels on the mannlichers are just 20" except the bottom (in the picture of five) and its 16 1/4" riceone. riceone 1 Posts: 212 (6/29/05 20:13) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Since it is controversy how strong Japanese actions are take a look at this site and see what it takes to destroy a T99. riceone. http://www.gunboards.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=108768 Clemsongunsmith 1 Posts: 298 (6/30/05 6:43) Reply Re: Arisaka Sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- riceone: You guys just ain't right! That was a very cool test. I suspect that a pre-64 Winchester Model 70 would have fared considerably worse. Keep up the good work, but keep it up a couple of miles or more from my house. Clemson US Army Veteran NRA Life Member NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder Garand Collectors'Association

93Firehawk 1 Posts: 36 (6/29/05 0:31) Reply Charles Daly question. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a complete Charles Daly rifle minus the barrel. I was thinking of making it a 338-06 or 35 Whelen. Do you think it will be strong enough for these calibers? TIA Ben zeeriverrat1 1 Posts: 175 (6/29/05 5:01) Reply Re: Charles Daly question. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That ought to work fine... Zeeriverrat1

AzRednek 1 Posts: 373 (6/25/05 22:08) Reply Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A close friend of mine was complaining about the recoil of his old 350 Norma Mag. I know exactly how he feels, seems like since I passed the half-century mark in age, rifles seem heavier and I’m more recoil sensitive. I suggested he look into a muzzle brake and a good recoil pad. I’ve never shot a rifle with a muzzle brake but several years ago I handled a friend’s S&W 44 mag with a Magna-Ported barrel. There was an obvious reduction in muzzle flip and whether real or imagined an over all reduction in recoil. We compared the same loads in his 8 3/8 to my 6 inch both S&W Model 29's. My friend called me this afternoon telling me he was quoted from 220-375 bux for the brake and pad. I did a little surfing on the net and have determined the local prices are pretty much the going rate. He also told me one gunsmith told him muzzle brakes are over-rated and because of the cost he would be better off dollar-wise his selling vintage rifle and buying a new or used 308 or 30/06 for Elk. My first question, any idea why the cost of a muzzle brake is so expensive?? I’m not a gunsmith but it seems to me with the proper tools the installation shouldn’t be a labor intensive project. I just can’t seem to justify 2 inches of factory mass produced steel parts being that expensive. Does anybody have any first hand knowledge or experience of using the same rifle with and without a muzzle brake you might want to share?? Does it really reduce felt recoil enough to justify the cost?? In my friend’s case he can easily afford the cost but on the other hand the gunsmith’s advice of down sizing is seems to me to be a more logical path to follow. fritz501 The Gentleman Farmer & Piglet Exterminator Posts: 2390 (6/25/05 22:38) Reply Re: Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There's no need to "downsize" on caliber. Either pay the normal gunsmith charge (and it does involve threading and fitting the brake to the barrel) or just buy a new rifle with the BOSS or similar system. Buying a new rifle, in your caliber, with the factory installed recoil-reducing systems would seem to be more cost affective. But it's your money. Be advised that a gunsmith will not install one of these aftermarket brakes for a few bucks. We have a gunshop here that is connected with Kleingunther, or at least was. His work was top-notch. Not cheap, but top-notch. BTW, installing a muzzle brake increases the noise. So wear those ear protectors (unless you are already as deaf as I am). Even then, I would never be that hard of hearing had it not been for my neglect. fritz "It seemed like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" z1r 1 Posts: 2872 (6/25/05 22:51) Reply Re: Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I for one hate muzzle brakes! Like fritz said, they add substantially to the noise. Your buddy would likely be way better off getting a nice, new, plush, thick, recoil pad. The new pads are incredibly good at absorbing recoil. I assume he handloads? If recoil is an issue why not simply down load? 99% of the time you have no real need for Magnum loads anyway. That would be the cheapest route yet! albertashooter 1 Posts: 44 (6/25/05 22:53) Reply Re: Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have fired a few rifles with muzzle brakes and they can reduce recoil quite a bit, but with quite a cost in noise and muzzle blast. I would not own a rifle with one as I do not believe the trade off is a good one. I would rather have the recoil and still keep my hearing. As you get older you get hard of hearing fast enough without speeding it up in this fashion. A good recoil pad is well worth it and can help quite a bit.The stock ones sometimes seem to be made of old tires,are hard as a rock and are of little use. I think he should follow the gunsmiths advice and get a 30-06. More than enough for elk. Reverend Recoil 1 Posts: 287 (6/25/05 23:13) Reply Re: Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Muzzle brakes do work well. The recoil of a rifle can be divided into two parts. The first part is the reaction of the bullet’s momentum. The only way to change that part is switch to a load with a lighter bullet or one with slower velocity. The second part is the momentum of the expanding gas driving the bullet. This can be calculated by multiplying the mass of the gunpowder (it is all converted to gas) by the speed of the bullet. When the bullet leaves the muzzle the gas creates a thrust like the exhaust of a rocket. A muzzle brake works by changing the direction of the gas 90 degrees. This change in direction causes the muzzle brake to react by pulling on the barrel, thus negating some of the recoil. Muzzle brakes work best with small bore magnum cartridges such as 270 Weatherby, 7mm Rem, and 300 Win. Muzzle brakes are less effective with cartridges such as 350 Norma and 375 H&H because a larger part of the recoil is due to the bullet’s momentum. The down side of all muzzle brakes is an increase in muzzle blast and to some, its appearance. Gunsmiths are business people like any other. Cost has no bearing on price. A good business person charges what the market will bear. Installing a muzzle break is not hard to due but it requires skill and an investment in expensive machinery and tooling. If you want the job done cheap, thread the end of your barrel with a pipe die, smear on some J-B Weld and turn on a muzzle break with vise-grip pliers. If you want it done right, take it to a good gunsmith and pay what he charges. You will have to decide whether or not the expense is worth the benefit. fritz501 The Gentleman Farmer & Piglet Exterminator Posts: 2392 (6/25/05 23:23) Reply Re: Muzzle Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You are right, reverend The local 'smith speciallized in Weatherby magnums, and he installed quite a few of the brakes on those Weatherby magnums. But then they were Weatherby magnums. Not everybody needs a Weatherby magnum. fritz "It seemed like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" donmarkey 1 Posts: 46 (6/26/05 7:55) Reply muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Even before installing a brake, get a real reciol pad. You will probably find you allready reduced felt recoil alot and since he has been shooting this gun all along, he's allready somewhat used to the recoil. Muzzle brakes are great for target shooting where you can wear earmuffs, but I for one don't want my ears ringing for 2 days after hunting. Don mod70 1 Posts: 187 (6/26/05 12:05) Reply ezSupporter Re: muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 'x-coil' recoil pads are the most effective I have used. I had the treat of shooting a few groups from the bench with an Ed Brown 338 win mag fitted with one of their brakes the other day. The rifle, topped with a Swarovski scope and 3 rds in the mag (edit), weighed less than 8 lbs. It is the first braked large caliber rifle I have ever fired and until then had always had a less than positive veiw on brakes BUT -- I came away with a whole new attitude. I too am over the hill and the bigger mags sure seem to buck more than they used to but this rifle felt like shooting a 243 to me! I had been shooting Turk and Yugo Mausers for a couple hours that day, and my old arthritic shoulder was already 'aware' of that fact, so I was quite impressed that the 338 seemed like such a pussycat. I'm sure it had something to do with stock fit and the Pachmyer decelerator pad on the Ed Brown but a lot of it was due to the brake. Another thing I noticed was that this brake was not nearly as loud as most of them I have been around. I don't know how that is accomplished but it was definitely quiter than any I have heard. Makes me want to get one for the only magnum rifle I still own. Edited by: mod70 at: 6/27/05 6:44 z1r 1 Posts: 2875 (6/26/05 12:30) Reply Re: muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mod70, You mentioned something here that most overlook: Stock Design, then fit. Nothing plays a bigger role in mitigating recoil, except of course a smaller caliber. Most stocks are ill fit to the shooter as they tend to be of the one size fits all ilk. grumpy64 1 Posts: 2 (6/26/05 15:08) Reply Re: muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I too, am over 50 and find that my K31, MN 91/30, 12 ga., etc. cause some discomfort - - but that's the price we pay for enjoying shooting. I bought a Romanian AK47 WASR10. The first thing I did was take it out of the wood furniture. It was awkward and uncomfortable. I put it in a ATI Fiberforce stock - much better fit. I installed a recoil buffer and recoil pad. The gun still had a lot of muzzle flip so I had a muzzle brake put on. That settled it down. With the red dot sight it is lethal at 50yards and still shoots five shot 5 inch group at 100 yds. Not bad for a AK. I have shot a mini 14 without the brake and with a brake - it does help recovery in rapid fire settings. AzRednek 1 Posts: 374 (6/26/05 20:05) Reply Re: muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thx!! for the advice and pictures, I emailed a link to this post to my friend. Jimro 1 Posts: 877 (6/27/05 23:17) Reply Re: muzzle brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A good rifle stock should make your rifle feel like a properly fitted shotgun. The butt should be big and wide to spread the recoil out, and the forearm should be large enough for you to comfortably grip and provide enough mass to mitigate recoil somewhat. The center of balance on the gun should fall slightly forward of the action, but not so barrel heavy that the rifle is slow handling. These are just my preferences, but they do make things nicer on your shoulder. Jimro

bja105 1 Posts: 11 (6/15/05 15:32) Reply What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Air Conditioning season is roaring, so I finally have some money for tools. Please help me prioritize. I have a K.Kale Turk that I want to be a Twede. I have a VZ-24 That I want to be a 35 Whelen. I have a Savage model 110 that I want to rebarrel. Here's what I have. Bench vise, drill press, a few files, 3 different hand held sanders, sanding blocks, B-square screwdriver set. Also lots of plumbing and sheet metal tools, if that counts. I think I have most of the woodworking things covered, at least for finishing. I think I'll try to make a barrel vise. I guess I need an action wrench, scope jig. What else? Anything that overlaps the Savage and Mausers? sonic1 1 Posts: 161 (6/15/05 17:19) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- make the barrel vice and action wrench for sure..learn how to get the barrels off first..then locate a buddy with a lathe.. every gun you is slightly different ..the kale being small thread with a lip on the receiver.vz24 good action to work with..savage 110 also very flexible to work with.. the twede is highly thought of around here ..i think its a good one to start with.. Edited by: sonic1 at: 6/15/05 17:20 roscoedoh 1 Posts: 890 (6/15/05 17:32) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Since you have a little money coming in, purchase a Wheeler action wrench and a B-Square barrel vise. I use a vice similar to the B-Square its just the cat's meow. You can buy or make a wooden block vice but I have never been sold on the gripping power of wood and I wouldn't recommend that. Mauser barrels are hard enough to remove as is with a steel vice. As for D/T jigs, most guys have good luck with the Wheeler jig. Later on if you want to do bolt work, I believe that both Brownell's and MidwayUSA sell bolt forging and bolt welding kits. Something else that will make your life easier is a good set of dial calipers and a good depth mic. You might want to think about those. The last thing you'll want is a Brownell's catalog. Aside from these, you'll pick up what you need as you go a long. And if you need anything very particular...call Brownell's - they'll probably have it! sphingta 1 Posts: 208 (6/15/05 19:07) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For the mausers the most important thing is to have or know someone with a lathe. If you don't things get expensive at least in my opinion. The savage I bought a barrel nut wrench, used the wheeler barrel vise which i don't like because it doesn't work very well, at least for me with removing mauser barrels and i also have the round reciever wrench. My 110 barrel seemed to be on pretty tight. I turned it into a 257 roberts. It is the most accurate gun I own other than a VZ-24 i put one of the heavy parker hale barrels on. They are about tied. I just used a prethreaded adams and bennet barrel. mod70 1 Posts: 175 (6/15/05 19:32) Reply ezSupporter Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There is a guy on ebay that sells excellent barrel vises w/4 bushings for $79. He will make additional bushings for $2.50 each. It is a quality tool. Search under 'Mauser' to find them. The Wheeler action wrench is a good tool as well. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 513 (6/15/05 20:45) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You NEED a lathe (everyone does). I am Bubba (but learning) bja105 1 Posts: 12 (6/15/05 21:32) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, Barrel nut wrench, barrel vise, action wrench are on their way. I have a caliper, what can I use a depth micrometer for? I'm trying to convince my machinist brother in law that he needs a lathe at home, no luck so far. Pedestal 1 Posts: 124 (6/16/05 6:07) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you are going to do rebarreling, you have to have a depth mike to read dimensions on the reciever/barrel. Not only for setting them up properly, but setting headspace using gauges. I would say if you rebarrel you MUST have a lathe (or lathe access). You can buy a pre thread and just screw it on-but you chances of it fitting correctly are slim.... Rather than just waste the money, I'd send the rebarrel job out to a 'smith, otherwise. Concentrate on the stuff you -can- do, like the stock work. sphingta 1 Posts: 209 (6/16/05 6:11) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- when putting a new barrel on you need to measure the shank length to make sure the inner face is the one that's seating(on a mauser). I also used one when i reamed the chamber for a 6.5x55 barrel off of the gun. Easy to due but a lot of words to write. Wouldn't do it again i don't think though unless i had a lathe because duing it in your lap is not fun. Clarkma 1 Posts: 387 (6/16/05 7:25) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With a lathe, you can make collets for the barrel vice for different barrel shank diameters. pic of barrel vice mounted to bench fmsniper 1 Posts: 700 (6/17/05 5:06) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For the Savage here is a good link, have done quite a few Savage rifles, they are very simple www.savageshooters.com/Ar...lSwap.html montea6b 1 Posts: 277 (6/17/05 8:31) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don't forget checkering tools! Concerning the comments on a depth mic, if you already have calipers wouldn't they work just as well? I'm refering to the end opposite the dial and caliper portion... all the ones I've seen have a small center portion that protrudes as the caliper is opened that can be used for depth measurements. z1r 1 Posts: 2836 (6/17/05 9:30) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Calipers will not give the level of accuracy needed. A depth mic will. I've heard comments from a lot of folks that are newish to this hobby proclaim just how hard it is to get a good reading even with a depth mic. That goes away with practice. It's way harder with a set of calipers. mod70 1 Posts: 176 (6/17/05 18:55) Reply ezSupporter Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What z1r said. You need a base on the caliper that will span the receiver face to get reliable measurements accurate to the thousandths. Some caliper mfg's make bases to fit the end of their tool to convert it to a depth mic but I have not used one. z1r 1 Posts: 2840 (6/17/05 19:10) Reply Re: What Tools? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- And that base costs nearly as much as a good used starrett depth mic on EBay. Nice explanation Mod70! bja105 1 Posts: 18 (6/26/05 17:50) Reply Depth Mic -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok, I have an action wrench, savage barrel nut wrench, and barrel vise in my hands. Now I need a depth mic. I see they have different length rods, and different bases. What size base and rods are most useful? z1r 1 Posts: 2876 (6/26/05 19:39) Reply Re: Depth Mic -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I like the three inch base. You only need a 1" rod but most come in sets so be sure it includes the 1".

donmarkey 1 Posts: 48 (6/26/05 8:13) Reply Stocks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anyone have a good source for stocks? I've installed a few boyds VIP stocks and they are easy but the wood to metal fit is terrible. I don't know if their semi-inlet stocks would be any better except for the barrel channel. For a truck gun gaps are OK and can be glass bed, but I'm looking for a better fit around the triggerguard than boyds. Don z1r 1 Posts: 2873 (6/26/05 9:47) Reply Re: Stocks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dennis Olson P.O. Box 337 500 1st. St. Plains, Mt. 59859 Tel: 406-826-3790 He can turn a blank for you. If you have a stock you want duplicated he can do that or he has pattern stocks. For blanks, you can try: www.presliksgunstocks.com www.dressels.com/ or try Bill Soverns who posts here. Lastly, This guy is new to the game but has turned out some real nice work. http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/ub...043/m/435100582 You are looking at about $100 to turn the stock. And for a decent piece of wood another $200. Get English, Circassian, French or Am. Black Walnut. Less figure but better wood, You will see lots of Claro for $200 that looks very good but the layout may be wrong and the wood itself is inferior to the others. Richards microfit actually sells blanks too. About $300 total for a good custom stock but after all the hardwork you put into fiting a stock it is worth it. I used a few semi inlets, did a great job fittingthem, but because the inletting had gaps (that it came with), I was never satisfied. For checkering, try Ahlmans. Here is a blank I got from Presliks: z1r 1 Posts: 2874 (6/26/05 9:50) Reply Re: Stocks

rwims 1 Posts: 21 (6/21/05 14:54) Reply Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I enjoy reading everyone's comments and advice on the site. Everyone is eager to share their knowledge and I appreciate that. I'm looking to restock my action supply and was wondering if the Turkish 1938 actions would be good for sporterizing. The prices are very reasonable if they are a suitable action. Please advise. z1r 1 Posts: 2861 (6/21/05 15:04) Reply Turk M38's -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First, let's assume we are talking about the K.Kale action. I wouldn't build a sporter out of a Turk reworked G98. Be aware that the K.Kale actions are different and bring with them a few idiosyncrasies. First off, they are a standard LR 98 sized action. However, they use barrels threaded to small ring specs. .980"x12 tpi vs 1.100"x12 tpi. That can limit you prethreaded barrel selection if it matters. On the other hand, if you have lathe access it allows you to obtain cheap Rem 700 takeoff barrels and rethread & chamber them. Secondly, they have a small lip at the front of the receiver that retains the handguard. Most folks remove this. The fit & finish, and some say heat treating, is not that of the German or Czech mausers. That said, here is a sporter I built out of a Turk action & a Rem 700 bbl. It shoots way better than my Rem 700! spec4 E4 1 Posts: 228 (6/21/05 15:04) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Turk 38 is the same as the 98 but have the SR threads. So barrel are hard to find or you can get an LR or Remington barrel and rethread it. Also you have an lip in front of the receiver where the upper handguard slip over and under. and would look nice once remove. All other parts will fit from an LR. Also some question about building magnum round in the turk. But more I think about it, it has just the same amount of metal around the chamber area. But on the said of safety, I guest it is best not to do that. spec.4 sonic1 1 Posts: 164 (6/21/05 16:28) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i just got 5 from SOG on there 5 for 55.00 deal..ended up with $60.00 each to my door if you have your C and R ..sell off the stock and barrel.. gets those k kales down in my range i have a lathe so i like the small ring ,,i can buy rem takeoffs. or large ring barrels.some others will work to..so i find smallrings a plus..but a cz mauser its not.. beanstrung 1 Posts: 69 (6/21/05 17:32) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There are several sellers on eBay that sell Remington (and other brand commercial) barrels that have been re-threaded for the small-ring Mauser thread. Do a search for "Mauser barrel" on eBay, and see what pops up. I've bought several, ranging in price from $40 to $85, in .243-Win, .308-Win, .30-06, and .22-250. -------------------------------------------------------- What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? rwims 1 Posts: 22 (6/21/05 19:51) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for the information guys. I was thinking of getting some of the u-fixems from Century, what are your thoughts on the u-fixems? mod70 1 Posts: 185 (6/21/05 19:59) Reply ezSupporter Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anybody here done a mag on a k-kale? Seems somebody posted something about a 7 rem mag back before the hack attack but I don't remember if they were asking if it was wise or if they had already done it. Even though the metal is about the same combined thickness (thread gap) it seems to me there would be expansion of the chamber until the thread contact area between the barrel and receiver became great enough to contain it if, in fact it would, over time. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 912 (6/21/05 20:09) Reply Shameless Plug - sorry Tony -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've got a Turk rethreaded 30-06 Rem barrel I'm looking to sell. If anyone is interested, let me know. roscoedoh@yahoo.com Jason tinkerfive 1 Posts: 276 (6/23/05 20:19) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- About K.Kale magnums... I'm planing on some (7MM , 300Win). It's a large ring Mauser action. I've yet to hear anyone question the metalurgy of the receiver Vs. any other large ring Mauser action. HOWEVER! I have been cautioned that Turkish bolts can be soft. Many K.Kales will have either Chek or German bolts. I wouldn't build a magnum with a soft Turkish bolt. I'm just relating what I've been told. I hope it is reliable, because as I said, I hope to build a magnum on a K.Kale one day. Tinker roscoedoh 1 Posts: 919 (6/23/05 20:26) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- tinker, You could always get all your bolts and receivers together and get them recarburized.... There's bound to be a gunsmith in your area that knows about such things. If so, he/she may be able to direct you to a heat treater that works on Mausers. Blanchard's tends to run on the proud side of their prices since Kuhnhauser recommended them in his manual - so I've been told. Just an idea. Jason z1r 1 Posts: 2869 (6/23/05 21:09) Reply Re: Are Turk 38 actions OK for sporterizing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've found that the receivers tend to run soft. I've seen more than a few turks with setback. I won't build a Turk that I haven't first had heat treated properly. If I was buiding a magnum that I wanted to last, I'd send it to someone like Blanchards. The trick to keeping costs down is to send them more than one receiver at a time.

captdavid 1 Posts: 50 (6/21/05 18:45) Reply P114 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I know that some early US springfields are dangerous because of their recievers. Are any p14 303s or p17s dangerous? thanks capt david roscoedoh 1 Posts: 910 (6/21/05 19:49) Reply Re: P114 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sir, I am not expert on Enfields, but I'll chime in with what I know. The barrels on the Enfield rifles were screwed on by rabid 400lb professional arm-wrestling gorillas. That is to say, the barrels are very tight. As such, many a receiver has been cracked trying to remove these barrels without a lathe. So I guess you'd do good to check the front ring with a little gasoline or better yet, get it magnafluxed before you did something with it. Everything I've read points to the Enfield as the biggest and stoutest surplus bolt action you can buy (when you can find them). I'd guess that as long as your's is cracked or warped, you're fine. Whatcha thinking of building on it? With a whole lot of work, these actions make really nice custom DGR's - so much so that they're out of my league. The above is just about all I know about Enfields so I'll defer to the experts on this if I've miss stated something. Good Luck! Jason z1r 1 Posts: 2864 (6/21/05 21:30) Reply Re: P114 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The eddystones from what little I know are the ones most likely to have cracks. Sporterizing an enfield is mucho lotsa work. Way more recontouring to get a sporter look than a Mauser requires. Fewer parts to be found. Then there is the bathutb on the rear bridge to deal with. As Roscoe said, these are best used for really big cartridges due to their size. The action is wasted on lesser cartridges. TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 25 (6/22/05 20:48) Reply Re: P114 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are 2 pictures of the 1917 Remington I have started to work on. It is a lot of work but it is possible even for a bubba. There is a lot of metal to remove with the mill - I got lucky with this one because someone had already ground down the ears on the rear ring and drilled for a scope. The work I have done so far is: get the original pitted 30-06 barrel off, open up the bolt face, weld on a new bolt handle, open up the feed rails slightly, open up the action front and rear so a H&H length mag box will fit, contour the feed ramp, mill away the front edge of the rear ring to provide clearance for loading and ejecting and mill off what was left of the left side of the stripper clip guide. It will hold four 416 Rem Mag rounds and so far in all the testing (without the barrel) it feeds all 4 at any speed while being held at any angle - and no rounds pop out of the magazine until they are supposed to. The real test will be how it feeds with the barrel in place. The feed rails are not "wavey" like they look in the picture - I think the flash is creating an illusion. There are a lot of tool marks still to be removed. tinkerfive 1 Posts: 275 (6/23/05 20:02) Reply Re: P114 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cap Dave To expand on what Z said about the Eddystones... Using Scotts photo.... In the bottom photo, if you look to the far right or the very front of the receiver, you will notice that the diameter is the same as in the middle where the scope base holes are. It is not this way on an Eddystone. The very front 1/4" is milled down to a thinner diameter. This means that there is less metal there and likely harder and more brittle once the receiver is hardened. So the Winchester and Remington's like Scott's are less prone to the cracking than the Eddystones. 1 Winchester 1917 and 1 Eddystone 1917 owner. Tinker

Doble Troble 1 Posts: 502 (6/14/05 12:04) Reply Old sporterized Mauser What do you think of the stock work? It's the nicest reworked military stock I've seen. It looks like someone who otherwise knew what they were doing decided to practice some carving. This has some ideas percolating in my head. I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2829 (6/14/05 12:20) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Neat but the LOP will be way too short. Just MHO. I saw guys at school that carved cheeck pieces out of the original stocks. Amazing work, fantastic practice, but the stock best fits a 13 YO. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 503 (6/14/05 12:56) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes, it's definitely going to be short. I'm not sure why 'cause I'm not particularly short, but I like a short LOP 12.5 - 13". My 6.5 BJAI on a beat-up 24/47 stock is just right. I suppose if you wanted it longer you could square up the butt and install a thick recoil pad. This would change and have to be accounted for in the design. Food for thought anyway! It's neat to see what a talented person can do with a military stock. I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2830 (6/14/05 13:10) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It's neat to see what a talented person can do with a military stock. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Agreed. It's neat to see anyone do something well! LOP is definitely a personal preference kinda thang. I like em longish 14.25" - 14.5". Jimro 1 Posts: 852 (6/14/05 14:01) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It's a nice job all right, but the guy is asking about 100 bucks more than I'd be willing to spend. Jimro fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 603 (6/14/05 20:02) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Five bucks says he don't get a single bid (unlless it is an illegitament bid). Besides, the seller is from NJ. fritz "It seems like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" montea6b 1 Posts: 271 (6/15/05 0:49) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A month or two ago I was pondering what to do with the original stock off my project. It was a heavily oiled and dented virtual throwaway off my VZ-24, but still it seemed a shame to just toss it. Fritz had motivated me to want to try the granite flecked paint with an old pre-"___" (insert name of ezboard crash day here) post with a photo, and thought that I could do a lot to build up a cheekpiece and pistol grip if the results were to be covered with paint. Yet a part of me also wondered just what I could do to make the wood look presentable. I do like the look of walnut. I thought about cutting plugs for the sling and disc holes from the removed forearm wood, and try to skillfully fill the holes, and then checker. (a simple and quick design!) The driving force behind this effort was that I didn't know how long I'd be checkering my real stock, so I wanted a ready piece to drop the action into in case I got a hankering to go shoot it. I had already shortened it, rasped a notch for a bent bolt handle, squared up edges of the ejection port, and degreased the wood when tragedy struck. In attempting to square up the butt for the addition of a thick old recoil pad I had laying around, my radial arm saw caught the stock and kicked, splitting a good chunk of wood off the toe. I don't think it's worth trying to salvage. Anyhow, during this process I got to thinking about how I might treat the pistol grip area. There is a lot of meat there for slenderizing, and I figured that I could make a sort of European style pistol grip similar to what you see on some shotguns. In comparison to a side-by-side that I brought home from Turkey, you can see that there is some similarity in the shape. Although there is less sweeping length in the grip of the Mauser milsurp, I think that a creative individual could still shape it quite nicely. It looks like the guy who did the one pictured in the auction did something pretty similar. I'm a little dissapointed that I probabaly won't see this through to completion now. To finish with a question, is there a name for the type of grip pictured on the shotgun above? I kind of like it, it has a Euro look to it. z1r 1 Posts: 2833 (6/15/05 7:05) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That grip is just about what the standard grip on riginal Masuer sporters was like. Most of the later guild guns have similar grips. Not all had the rounded end to them, many had crip caps but still retained the long gentle arch. Only thing I know them as is "open" grip. These czech made Mausrs of the 40's-50's retained the feature. It is indeed a very european feature. Contrast it to new stocks especially those of outfits like Richard's microfit and you'll see that the grip is a much tighter arc and in some cases tries to straighten out at the end. An original Mauser S type. montea6b 1 Posts: 272 (6/15/05 12:17) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Very nice! Are those all yours? I do like the more swept open grip. The Richards classic looks pretty close to this profile in the photos. That's the one I will get if I ever order from them. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 511 (6/15/05 14:28) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm turning green looking at that collection too! Yet another style on the to make list! I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2834 (6/15/05 14:34) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don't I wish they were mine. Roscoe knows whose they are. I think he lusts after them too. I'd give, well, something valuable for just one. Nelsdou 1 Posts: 7 (6/15/05 23:22) Reply Re: Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes, that stock on gunbroker is an interesting piece. Maybe it's my eyes, although the length of pull is short, the butt looks taller from toe to head than the original mil stock. Keep those photos coming, it's great to see those old mauser sporters. Olsens book has a number of mauser sporters photos, too. I too, like monte, have been tempted to experiment with some beater VZ-24 wood. Certainly less risk to practice on and the price is right. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 914 (6/21/05 22:08) Reply Re:Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sorry to call up an older post, but I just reread this one. ____________ Yes sir. I do know who that collection of rifles belongs to. And he is my hero and who I'd like to be when I'm all growed up. I don't think that's all he has in his collection, just *some* of them. I don't know if anyone's actually seen his entire collection of original, low serial numbered Mausers, but I'm sure it would be a sight to behold - similar to that of seeing Zeus in his full glory! Lust? I suppose you could call it that. I'm kinda wondering if either I could BS him into adopting me or perhaps he has a daughter I could marry. I don't care how ugly she is as long as she can cook and clean and more importantly that my name is on the will under "To inherit the collection of fine Mausers..." Jason bilurey1 1 Posts: 25 (6/22/05 15:51) Reply Re: Re:Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alway up for a chance to get someone interested in stock work. I started with Argentine "09 stocks, no extra holes in butt. Later when these became collectable (and expensive) I switched to M08 Brazilians, only takedown tunnel in butt and no fingergrooves in forend, good quality wood. To avoid reinventing the wheel I got several different copies of older original Mauser catalogs to use a patterns or guides. Also added some G&H pics I scrounged off the auction boards. Started alterations with an instruction sheet from a Fajen semi-inletted stock. Later was lucky enough to find a beginners stock making book by Baker, best I've ever seen, it was from the '30s and everything was done by hand, even making the tools. I kept the bible, DBI's "Custom Guns" in front of me at all times. Ultimately went to pre-turned, semi-inletted stocks as they really reduce time to rough out a blank. Good quality Mauser military stocks still the best for the European style, occasionally find a great Turk stock turned from some of that country's exceptionally fine Circausian walnut. Jump into it fellows, nothing beats turning out that first really nice stock, and, you will be amazed at how much you'll learn about Mausers. But, be careful, this may lead to "reloading" and other bad habits which I'm sure z1r can address with some authority. Bill flaco 1 Posts: 225 (6/22/05 19:15) Reply Re: Re:Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- bilurey1- I'm intrigued by your post. It sounds like you've got at least a couple of old literary treasures. And there's a "Shooting Library Forum" down below, with absolutely no books on the shelves. Since the recent unpleasantness. I'd appreciate it if you'd share additional information about these books. Thanks, flaco Nelsdou 1 Posts: 8 (6/22/05 23:15) Reply Re: Re:Old sporterized Mauser -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Another classic is "Gunstock Finishing and Care" by A. Donald Newell, written back in '49. Although it's primarily about finishes, he's got a pretty good chapter on sporterizing military stocks - mausers, enfields, springfields, and arisaka.

roscoedoh 1 Posts: 913 (6/21/05 21:57) Reply Quick Spray-On Finish Question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In regards to curing the spray-on finish in your oven: Do these products leave behind any foul odors or lingering flavors in the food? I know there are several things, BBQ paint for example, that if you put them in the oven and cook'em, they'll make your cakes and fishsticks taste like a hell fire smells. So, on the chance I need to cure something like a triggerguard or similar small part, could I get away with using the oven without ruining its cooking ability? Thanks, Jason fritz501 The Gentleman Farmer & Piglet Exterminator Posts: 2375 (6/21/05 22:20) Reply Re: Quick Spray-On Finish Question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I doubt if it has any ill effect on the food cooked in the oven later, but it leaves a foul smell in the kitchen. The first and last time I did one in mrs fritz's oven, I found some vanilla extract and saturated some paper towels with it and placed them around in the house to kill the odor. Sure made the joint smell good. She must have suspected something from that! fritz "It seemed like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" Clarkma 1 Posts: 391 (6/21/05 22:34) Reply Re: Quick Spray-On Finish Question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I cooked a Rem1100 barrel with Brownell's spray lacquer in the oven when my wife was gone. lacquer thinner toxic rating link Of the levels of poison, Lacquer thinner fumes from the oven is at the "kiss it good-bye" level. It stunk up the house so bad, I have suffered braid damage ever since, but now enjoy the Dukes of Hazzard. sniper hide post on homemade paint oven Edited by: Clarkma at: 6/21/05 22:36 manureman 1 Posts: 413 (6/22/05 4:58) Reply Re: Quick Spray-On Finish Question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jason same story here ,dont remember it making anything taste bad ,but momma got home earlier than usual and I didnt have time to fritz up the house so to speak ,didnt think 3M was going to be able to make enough ductape to hold my guts in after the butt chewin' I got.But your young and single so a ductape shortage probably wouldnt be a problem for you.Jim

roscoedoh 1 Posts: 903 (6/20/05 19:19) Reply What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Guys, I have a good 98/22 stock that I'm decosmo-izing that I have designs of using to build a quick open-sighted sporter out of. I also have a good 98/22 barrel and a fairly usable K98 barrel. Neither of them are earmarked for anything specific at the moment. The 98/22 action the stock and barrel came from is in the stages of (slowly) becoming an 8x68s. So I have a stock, barrel, and Turk action(s) I can use (or I could get another cheap and go to town with it!). At this stage, I have 3 projects nearing completion and I'm contemplating throwing something easy together out of the parts I have amassed. I wouldn't mind another 8x57 sporter to replace the whole in my collection, but I'm also leaning toward the 8mm-06 or 8x64 Brenneke. And, I'm on a budget. The 8x60s is out right now as I don't have the $100+ for reloading dies. If I built a 8mm/06 or 8x57, all I'd need would be to borrow a reamer. The 8x64 is neater though and has slightly more panache. What do you guys think? Results (total votes = 3): 8x57JS 1 / 33.3% 8mm-06 0 / 0.0% Something else: Please state what else. 2 / 66.7% z1r 1 Posts: 2855 (6/20/05 20:42) Reply Re: What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I say do the 8x57. You can feed it & build it cheaply. Besides, with the 8x68S, everything between the 8x57 and it would be redundant, though fun. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 905 (6/20/05 20:57) Reply Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Z, That's the way I'm leaning. Which ever direction I take, would I want the military ladder sight? Or would I want to dig through that big bag of sights I have and put some Rem sights on a stepped barrel? Dadgumit, I've about talked myself into yet another time consuming project... Jason z1r 1 Posts: 2856 (6/20/05 22:13) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jason, I like this sight: I'm not sure if it is a rework milsurp or a commercial variant. The sites on my CZ425 trainer are very similar, and they look like some of the original mauser sporter sights. You could easily reshape a milsurp sight and add a windage adjustable blade. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 530 (6/21/05 9:11) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I agree 100 % that keeping the stock 8 x 57 is the smart route. Loaded-up it's just as good as about anything through the 8 x 68. Now that I've got common sense out of the way, let me suggest a wildcat - an 8 x 63. Similar to an 8 mm - 06 but instead of an 8 mm -06 reamer you just use an 8 x 57 reamer until a 8 mm neck sized 30-06 case gives a bit of a crush fit. This should give a blown-out, improved 8 mm-06. You'll be able to use cheap 8 x 57 dies for neck sizing, bumping the shoulder back when necessary, and for bullet seating. It's hard to say how long the neck would be, but these concerns are part of the fun. I bet it would turn-out great. You might want to try it out on your bad bore barrel first. The two most important things are: (1) to learn something and (2) make something that will be fun to shoot. I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2857 (6/21/05 10:40) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jason, The main reason I said what I did, since I know that you like I, will have at least one of each 8mm caliber before we are done, is tha you need to simplify your life now. Keep it simple and enjoy more shooting. I have a feeling your life will be very busy in the near future. My trend of late has been toward cartridges I can buy over the counter so I can spend more time shooting and less loading. now, if I can just finish up all the projects in the pipeline, so I can get out of my shop, lol. The biggest plus I see going for the 8x57, in addition to what DT said, is that it is dirt cheap to build and feed. Dies alone for all but the 8mm-06 are not cheap. And, it has the largest selection of off the shelf ammo. I'm sure a box of 8x64 is no less than $40. Do you have a good 8mm bbl? I just happen to have one with a super bore. Some jerk tried to contour it himself but I'm sure I can make it look real nice. Make a real light contour. Interested? montea6b 1 Posts: 282 (6/21/05 10:57) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Z, Nice looking rifles, (although I assume from your comment that they're not yours.) However, I can't understand something... The square bridge in the front receiver ring is notable taller than the rear. I thought that the rear had to be taller to bring it up to the level of the front? If you mounted a scope it looks as though you'd have to use different height rings to compensate. It just looks odd to me. DT, Your wildcat sounds intriguing, but I'm having a hard time seeing exactly how it's different from a 8mm-06. It seems as though your simply suggesting a different method of ending up at the same point; chamber that will fit a 30-06 case necked up to an 8mm. And how would you check headspace? Doble Troble 1 Posts: 531 (6/21/05 11:36) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- monte, I haven't studied the conversion in detail - Jason's question just got me thinking - and Old Hans' 7.62 x 57 made with a 308 reamer by reaming further. Using an 8 x 57 reamer to ream to 63 mm would result in a cartridge that would look like a streached 8 mm - 6 mm longer at the base. It would be blown-out because the taper would start later and be more gradual than the -06. If memory serves the shoulder angle and diameter are similar, but the 8 x 57 neck is shorter. It's probably a risky scheme, but if successful would allow cheap reamers and dies to be used, and result in a cartridge that probably noone else has. It will have increased capacity over the 8 mm-06. If you've got a shout or rusted-out barrel around it's cheap to try. Regarding headspace guages, I'm a Bubba and don't need them ). Us Bubbas use formed cases to set headspace (so wildcatting step 1 is to establish how you're going to make your cases). Only professional Bubbas should engage in this practice, don't try this at home. I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2859 (6/21/05 11:39) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Montea6b, You are right on both counts: First, those are not my rifles but I would like them to be. Second, the rear scope base usually is taller. At least when typical american rings are used. Our rings are sized the same and are interchangable front to rear. These are European quick release rings and the front ring is shorter thus the taller front base. Good catch. I wondered if anyone would notice. That's one of the benefits of 20/20 vision. montea6b 1 Posts: 285 (6/21/05 14:51) Reply Re: Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DT, I re-read your first post and it makes a little more sense now. For some reason I at first thought that you were talking about forming cases from 8mm! And I guess you could probably use a 30-06 headspace gauge vice a case if you wanted to be more precise. The result, as you said, would be a sort of a "blown out improved" version of the 8mm-06. I need to read the Bubba manual. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 911 (6/21/05 20:02) Reply Re:What to do next? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gentlemen, An 8x57JS it is. I have a pretty good Czech barrel I plan to try and use and if it turns out to be crap, Z, I will definitely get in touch with you. Otherwise, my 'smith liked the rifling in the barrel that I'm reffering to so it may be a winner. I'm going to do something with the stock I mentioned, possibly shaping the butt to match something closed to the Boyd's JRS I have. If there's enough wood there, I may give it some it some side panels. In any event, once I get done with it, it should be unique and interesting. I haven't planned out the particulars on it yet, but I am leaning toward a longer barrel and open sights, although I may go ahead and D/T the receiver just in case. In regard to the open sights, Z I sent you an email on that - look at it when you've got a minute or two and let me know what you think. I also need to get with you on that safety equipment I bought a month ago and is now collecting dust. Anywho, I'm going to experiment with a baked-on finish with this rifle and I'm scouting plow disks and pipe. I'll keep yall posted. Take care, Jason *PS - German speakers: this will be my pig hunting rifle. How is that spelled in German? Scwinejaegergeweher?

Clarkma 1 Posts: 390 (6/21/05 5:44) Reply Shorten Mauser actions? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Randy Ketchum wants to do one for me. I see it has been done in the old Dunlap book. Anyone done this recently? I am thinking of just leaving the 1903 Turks long for the .223. z1r 1 Posts: 2860 (6/21/05 11:43) Reply Re: Shorten Mauser actions? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I helped a friend weld up one. There is a lot of work involved. He did it as part of a class project. Otherwise, neither of us would waste our time on it, especially in .223. I'd pay $450 and get a new cz527 in .223 and be done with it. For a .473 sized casehead and a case like the .250-3000 or perhaps .22-250 I might see expending the effort. But IMHO, unless you have all the time in the world or money I don't see it as a conversion that is worth the effort anymore. tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 324 (6/21/05 17:56) Reply Re: Shorten Mauser actions? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well heres a spin if you cut 2 mausers in different places and put them back together you yield a short action and a very long action. so you get bonus out of it. Rod z1r 1 Posts: 2862 (6/21/05 18:05) Reply Re: Shorten Mauser actions? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lengthening an action isn't such a good idea in my book either. A standard 98 opened up to .375 length already has too much bolt wobble when the bolt is fully retracted. Lengthen the bolt and it only gets worse.

roscoedoh 1 Posts: 898 (6/17/05 18:02) Reply Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A friend of mine is hot for a 257 Roberts. I was talking it over with him today and mentally examining the possibility of getting my hands on a Turk action and one of the stock and barrel combos from Midway and building a 257 Roberts for myself and then selling it to him. My questions are: are corelite stocks worth a darn (at all?) and has the quality of the A&B barrels improved any from what they used to be (rough and unreliable)? What's the feed back on a budget minded sporter here? And I also have a technical question: is it possible to turn the threads on a LR Mauser barrel down and rethread it for a SR Mauser? Its 1.10 vs .980. Is that enough? Thanks all, Jason Edited by: roscoedoh at: 6/17/05 18:06 Doble Troble 1 Posts: 521 (6/17/05 18:09) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sounds like a reasonable plan to me. I don't have anything to say about the Corelite, but the A&B that I've used (to make a 6.5 x 55 BJAI) is reasonably accurate (I'm still working on it - it seems to like the longer bullets - I should have a 140 gr load worked-up soon) but it WAS rough. Its not rough anymore but it took a few hundred strokes with a tight-fitting patch saturated with J&B. If I were to do it over again I'd go with a LW blank, but the A&B makes good sense for low cost experimentation. I'd recommend a Richard's second real wood stock for the same or less money but of course that's a lot more work. PS I think the cartridge choice is EXCELLENT and could only be improved on by going with a 7 x 57 or 6.5 x 55 PSS Let me know if you need a Turk worthy of sporterization. I am Bubba (but learning) Edited by: Doble Troble at: 6/17/05 18:12 sonic1 1 Posts: 162 (6/17/05 18:38) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- yes the large ring can be recut for small ring z1r 1 Posts: 2839 (6/17/05 18:48) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "What's the feed back on a budget minded sporter here?" That's exactly what these were made for. The corelite stock I used was ok. What do you want for the price? It had a decent recoil pad on it and the "wood" to metal fit was no worse than the crap I've gotten from Richards. Yes, the LR threads can be recut to SR size. If it is a good deal then why not go for it. Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 827 (6/17/05 19:40) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Of course, if you want you can get the shorter F14 contour barrels already threaded for the small ring. Sharp taper, 21" long, should make a nice light deer rifle. Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 828 (6/17/05 19:49) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Or, go to EvilBay (eBay), and find one of those rethreaded Remington 700 take off barrels. Rethreaded to small ring Mauser threads. Right now there are three, a 243 Win, a 25-06, and a 308 Win. Then put it in a nice laminated stock like from Boyds or from Richards MicroFit. fritz501 The Gentleman Farmer & Piglet Exterminator Posts: 2364 (6/17/05 21:50) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sailormilan2 You had to do it, didn't you? Just when I try to buy something on eBay, and have the high bid, someone here comes up with the notion of bidding against me! Now, Fundillo Bill in his wisdom on his site, has declared that direct links to eBay auctions is verboten. But since you didn't post a direct link, I'll let you slide this time, lol fritz "It seemed like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" carzngunz 1 Posts: 134 (6/17/05 21:56) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I rebarreled a 1909 for a friend last hunting season using a 25-06 A&B and he put it in a corelite stock. With no bedding, it shot sub moa and got a lot better with handloads. The barrel was a lot nicer inside than I was led to believe from others. Overall I think it is a good deal if you are working with a limited budget. tinkerfive 1 Posts: 274 (6/17/05 21:58) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fritz brings up a point. I shop E-bay and have wondered if ever I'm competing against any fellow board members. I have recognized the occasional " handle " when it's the same. I go by something else on E-bay. Should we make a list of 'handles' so we aren't competing against each other? Tinker (Iceman_42) mod70 1 Posts: 178 (6/17/05 22:04) Reply ezSupporter Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For C&Rs, Midway has several of the A&B/Corelite combos for $124 right now. I think I will get the 6.5x55 & 35 Whelen but am tempted by the .280 also. They have a 38'06 A-square combo for about $115 on closeout but the dies cost $50 on sale and I already have dies for some of the others. z1r 1 Posts: 2841 (6/17/05 23:11) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mod70, are those RCBS dies? I bought lee dies for about $25 for the .338-06. They are so-called limited production or some such! Jason, If you get the A&B bbl & want it rethreaded let me know. One thing about the f34, it seems too heavy for a .257 to me. but that's probably just me. Everyone else seems to like heavy bbls. Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 831 (6/17/05 23:20) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- z1r, that is why I mentioned the F14 barrel. Seems perfect for me in 257 robers. I have one, getting ready to install it. z1r 1 Posts: 2843 (6/18/05 0:20) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Only problem I see with the F14 is that they no longer make stock that fit the barrel. The F34 inletted stocks are too wide. The fajen Classic stocks were inletted to fit the F14. i like the F14 barrel taper better for that cartridge too. Only I wish it were at least 22". I'm funny that way. though, in truth, you'd never know the difference. Sailormilan, that will make a fine little rifle. Very handy and no Texas deer will be a match! roscoedoh 1 Posts: 899 (6/18/05 1:02) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fellows, I'll talk to my friend tomorrow to see if he'd be interested in this sort of thing. If not, I may just have to buy a combo for myself sooner or later and try it. I'm out of mad money right now so if its a "me" project, it may have to be backshelved for a while. Thanks for the feedback yall! Jason mod70 1 Posts: 180 (6/18/05 12:54) Reply ezSupporter Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- z1r yes RCBS not being familiar with the A-square suffix I though it might be a different wildcat and need a different die set than a regular 338'06. If they are the same cartridge I might get it instead of the Whelen as the Lee dies are only about $15-17 and I don't have Whelen dies either Odies dad 1 Posts: 289 (6/20/05 10:03) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've been very happy with all the A&B barrels I have used. They all shoot better than I do. The Corelite stocks are OK. Better than Ramline anyway. They do flex some but are fairly solid feeling. They have a decent recoil pad. Getting the combo reduces your inletting time. The A&B barrels fit pretty good in them. Liberals are the only known species whose powers of reasoning are not improved by the benefit of hindsight. IZH27 1 Posts: 9 (6/20/05 19:53) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jason, Here is my first project. Metal is unfinished as yet. I made the stock. (the photo's were not there so I could not transfer them) Here is a target with .85 grainers. Sierra HP's. Nowhere near the lands but it shoots after working up the loads. Still working on heavier loads. The Topmost hole is from My BIL's 25-06. He shot the wrong target!:-) The one below is a fouling shot from my 6.5x55 with A & B Barrel. The cluster below is 4 shots. All done at 100Yd. My barrel is a shooter. No fouling of the barrel yet! Good luck with your project! Steve roscoedoh 1 Posts: 906 (6/20/05 21:04) Reply Re: Corelite Stock and A&B Combos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SWEET! I love the snable tip! I guess the quality of the A&B's has increased since they've come out. My buddy said he'd think about. Perhaps I could work on him a bit... Jason

captdavid 1 Posts: 48 (6/19/05 11:47) Reply Small ring Mauser 98s? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm looking for the best small ring 98 to build a custom on. I'm building a 7x57 and considering these as a option. Pllease enlignten me as to what to use and espicaly where to obtain. thanks capt david z1r 1 Posts: 2852 (6/19/05 13:28) Reply Re: Small ring Mauser 98s? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The best bar none would be a g33/40 or vz33. The mexicans would be next and the magazines are already set up for the 7x57. You can find more aftermarket parts for the G33/40 and vz33 though as they are standard length.