TLynn

mikeh3 1 Posts: 49 (6/9/05 13:41) Reply M1 Garand Problem -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- While shooting my M1 yesterday the operating rod came loose from the bolt twice while firing 48 rounds. Do I have a worn bolt,operating rod,both or something else? BurgieC 1 Posts: 55 (6/9/05 16:48) Reply Re: Worn op-rod jumps out of track -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You may have a worn tab on your op-rod and when rounded on the corners it jumps out of track. Here is a photo, but the lower measurment is incorrect should read .095 and not .995 that would be close to an inch wide. "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas Alva Edison mikeh3 1 Posts: 50 (6/10/05 15:07) Reply Re: Worn op-rod jumps out of track -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for your reply. One of the corners does look pretty worn and the rod also looks kinda bent.

Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 808 (6/4/05 20:40) Reply FN49 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Does anyone here know if a FN49 qualifies as a C&R item?? I have found a couple of fairly inexpensive ones, and am considering buying one. thanks, Dale Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 809 (6/4/05 20:51) Reply Re: FN49 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Okay, found the answer my own little self. I guess it does, from the BATF's own little book on Curios and Relics, page 22.

I will try to move all the posts that are left in the firearms area. It will take awhile. And I promise when done to then bump back up everybody's newer posts that were made here. Dang I forgot how intensive this was. I remember the last time I tried something like this - I'm an idiot

farktoof 1 Posts: 2 (6/14/05 19:15) Reply Stupid question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is the smallest lathe you can use to rebarrel - chamber etc? I know little about the workings of a lathe but want to learn.Do you need a certain minimum length table, min. size chuck etc? I'm thinking of taking some courses but want to know some basics. Go easy on me now. z1r 1 Posts: 2831 (6/14/05 19:54) Reply Re: Stupid question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you chamber & thread through the spindle then you need one with a arge enough hole in the spindle to fit the largest barrel you plan on working with. If you plan on threading between centers & chambering in a steady, you need a bed with a long enough distance between centers to fit the barrel you intend to chamber plus enough room for a reamer. If using the headstock method you can generally get by with a smaller lathe. One with a shorter bed however, you cannot always contour a barrel on a short lathe. Speaking in roundabout terms an 11"x36" or 12x36" is about what I'd consider minimum. the old South Bend Heavy ten would also be acceptible. Size is dictated by what you want to do. farktoof 1 Posts: 3 (6/14/05 20:01) Reply Re: Stupid question -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thank you.

IZH27 1 Posts: 7 (6/11/05 20:18) Reply What type Turk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I posted this on another site. Thought I'd ask here also. Hello All, {Went into a local pawn shop today and spied two Turks sitting back in the corner. One is plainly marked K Kale. The other is one that I've never seen and assume it to be a scrubbed Nazi K98. The second rifle is marked 1954 below a stamped seal that has been "likely" (it's hard to tell what the symbol is/was) altered. On the side of the action by the charging thumb slot it is stamped 98 followed by the letters T h. Any ideas on the second one? Is it likely a K98 German?} If anyone can help ID this it's appreciated. I'm looking for some good ones to set back for future projects. As these are non-matching I'm gonna try to work on getting the pair. Steve fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 585 (6/11/05 21:04) Reply Re: What type Turk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yeah, about one in fifty of these showed up. It's a 1954 dated rework of a Gew 98, where they cut back the receiver ring threads to make it fit their criterior. It is about one or two threads short of the more common K Kale. Some claim it to be unsafe because of this, but since I am not planning to rechamber one of these to a more powerful round, I don't care. fritz "It seems like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" mauserbuff 1 Posts: 127 (6/11/05 21:10) Reply ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fritz is right. It also has the large ring barrel threads (1.10") and not the small ring (.980") like the K.Kale. IZH27 1 Posts: 8 (6/12/05 18:32) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've read about the possible safety issues. Some have said that it is likely a WWI 98. Will metallurgy be an issue in 98's made between the wars? From what I've read it would seem that German metal is considered top notch. I would then assume that this action would be a good candidate for a sporterization project. Would it be better than the K Kale other than that it is Large thread/large ring? What have you guys seen with buildability of these reworks? Thumbs up? Down? I'm kinda leaning toward tossing out a price for both then setting them back for the future for projects. Steve Clemsongunsmith 1 Posts: 288 (6/12/05 19:42) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The potential safety problem, as I understand it, with these reworks is that the Turks cut a recess in the front ring for the handguard, and that left the barrel being held by about three threads. Clemson US Army Veteran NRA Life Member NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder Garand Collectors'Association mod70 1 Posts: 173 (6/12/05 20:24) Reply ezSupporter Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think there are about 4.5 threads left. Kuhnhausen says you need 6. carzngunz 1 Posts: 131 (6/12/05 21:07) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I will throw in my opinion. If you have 4 1/2 threads in the receiver and you can mate 4 1/2 threads on the barrel I wouldn't worry too much. There are a lot of mausers out there with the same or maybe less thread engagement. Just make sure that your barrel doesn't have a large relief cut behind the threads so that you get all of your 4 1/2 threads engaged. Remember this is just my opinion but you will be the one behind the trigger. z1r 1 Posts: 2819 (6/12/05 21:42) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- They are most likely safe but ponder this: What will the front rinng ook like once you remove the lip? it will be awfully shot and will leave a gap in just about every semi inlet stock. Sure, if you are real good you can cut a barrel that looks like it is butting up against the ring. Just don't count on using a short chambered barrel. IZH27 1 Posts: 9 (6/13/05 19:22) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hadn't even thought about the metal to wood fit! I think I'll pass on these and look for a VZ 24. I've had the success there anyway. Thanks for all the feedback. My education continues. Steve z1r 1 Posts: 2826 (6/13/05 20:25) Reply Re: ATF re-work -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Man, I type bad. Glad you could decipher that last post, lol. It is hard to go wrong with a vz action.

montea6b 1 Posts: 259 (6/11/05 19:20) Reply Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, checkering progress is exceedingly slow. For numerous reasons, one of which is that I lack a decent checkering cradle. I have been getting by using vises, but found myself having to contort awkwardly to get around the curves on my wrap around design. Now I don't need infinite adjustability, but 90 degrees of rotation at a time just wasn't cutting it. I was hoping to avoid shelling out $ for another piece of gear I would seldom use, so being that it was a blustery rainy day in the Northwest, I ground some more beans for a fresh pot of coffee and set out to figure out a better way to checker with the resources on hand. Here's what I came up with: What I did was to make use of two small vises that clamp to a work surface. (In this case the dining room table) I mounted one of them to a scrap piece of 2x6, which I then nipped the corners off at a 45 so that it would seat further down in the one mounted to the table. As you can see in the other picture below, I supported the other end with a sandbag. It's a pretty stable arrangement and made it much easier to work on the rounded part of the forearm. Although it is far from perfect I am reasonably satisfied with the results thus far and I think the finished product will do just fine for a first time sporter. Here's how it looks to date: (Sorry for the poor photo, I'll try for some better ones as I get it finished up.) z1r 1 Posts: 2817 (6/11/05 20:10) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Your checkering is most impressive! I have all the tools but I can tell I won;t be using them for years. I'm gonna pay someone to do mine, just not enough time. Mucho kudos! There was a real nice article in one of the recent Shooting Times or G&A mags on making a checkering cradle. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 488 (6/11/05 20:46) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Great idea, Monte. I think I'm going to rig up something similar with my shop vise. I've got a big drill press vise that may work. The checkering's looking good too. You must be really patient. I wouldn't be able to keep myself from hurrying through that job just to see how it comes-out - being able to slow down and do it right is a very valuable discipline - that I don't have but desperately need! Either that or I've got to figure-out how to checker well fast (we need a head banging against the wall emoticon). I am Bubba (but learning) montea6b 1 Posts: 260 (6/11/05 21:27) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks Z. Do you happen to have that magazine, or is it possibly still on the stands? I'll try looking for it. I'd like to make a proper cradle sometime. I've heard that Monty Kennedy's book has directions to make one, but I haven't gotten around to adding it to the library. I can be patient, but mostly I limit myself to short sessions because the concentration fatigues me and then I get scared that I'll goof up! I've been 20/20 unaided all my life, but once I started checkering I actually bought a pair of drugstore reading glasses to help ease the eyestrain. When I started I one of those hinged elbow type lamps with a large magnifying glass on the end, but I found the depth of field to be too limiting. I had to keep my eyes at exacty the right distance from the lense or I'd lose focus. Almost impossible when you're working around a curve and have to keep re-positioning the light/lense. The grampa glasses are just the ticket. (Besides, my 8 yr old daughter told me I look handsome in them! ) claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 118 (6/13/05 1:30) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- wow i want to lean how to do that, got any tips you could give some1 trying to get into it? z1r 1 Posts: 2821 (6/13/05 9:45) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll try to find the article/magazine & report back. montea6b 1 Posts: 262 (6/13/05 12:33) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Clayton, My advice would be like the Nike commercial: "Just do it!" Buy yourself a set of cutters and start practicing on scraps. Make sure they are hardwood scraps, preferably with curves similar to a stock. When you get comfortable, try it out on a fairly plain wood stock. I went fairly ambitious on my first go with a wraparound design, but you can pick something a little more simple. You'll need a comfortable workspace, proper lighting, etc. (read that as adjustable light source. You'll want to change it around to get just the right angle to highlight your cuts.) There are books available. "Checkering and carving of gunstocks" by Monty Kennedy is supposed to be good. I have a fairly short paperback booklet that discusses layout etc. Somewhat useful, but not very complete. The name escapes me, but it was pretty inexpensive and I think I ordered it from Brownells when I bought the cutters. Attention Bill S: If you're thinking of chiming in here, you can save yourself some typing. I cut and pasted one of your lengthy and very informative posts on checkering into a MSWord file for future reference. I think I even have a photo or two that you posted with layout lines, etc. When I get home tonight I'll dig it out and re-post. Consider it a partial rebuilding of an archive quality dissertation on the subject of checkering, post ez-board crash. Speaking of that, we need a snappy name or reference for "the day" that we lost our history when the boards were hacked. Something like "9-11", "A day that will live in infamy", "BC and AD", etc. Any ideas? montea6b 1 Posts: 268 (6/13/05 19:29) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As promised, here are some excellent tips that were shared on this site before the crash. They were originally posted by Bill Soverns of Soverns custom Gunstocks: CHECKERING: I saw a recent post where folks were looking for some help on checkering. Here are a few things I have learned on the subject along with my equipment list. Equipment : Ralph Bone Checkering cradle clamped in a vise. 100 watt swing arm lamp WE Brownells full view hand tools with Dembart F1 one cutters. Monty Kennedy jointer viener Dorion Power checkering tool. Labeling tape stiff blade knife Scribe White soft mark pencils. The first thing my mentor hammered into my head was if the layout isn’t right nothing with be right. Spending extra time on your layout will save you much heartache down the road. I do use some templates for small items (like fleur de lis) but generally most of my patterns are drawn right on the stock with a ruler and a white pencil. The soft pencils are nice because they will not mar the finish and you can erase them easily. I try and pick out some lines on the stock I want to accent and draw my checkering accordingly. Its all a matter of personal taste here folks. My straight lines are put in with a scribe and a ruler. Curves are cut with a very sharp short blade knife. The borders are cut to half depth either with a veiner or jointer. Master lines are layed out with a jointer. Once my master lines are in and straight I take some Dymo labeling tape and lay it along the master lines and draw a pencil mark. Keep leap-frogging the tape all the way across the pattern. This will help you as you cut your initial lines. You will be able to see if the line wanders and be able to make corrections. Use your jointer to straighten out those lines. I make mistakes all the time and the jointer bails me out 95% of the time. Here is a picture of the initial lines on a pattern and the leap-frogged pencil lines. (Technical difficulties precluded me from posting the picture. I had pasted the entire post into Word, but the photo shows up as a Word "scrap" file, and can't be saved separately as a picture file. If anybody wants to see it, send me an email and I will forward you the Word file.) Always remember to cut all your lines in one direction before turning the stock around and doing the other side. NEVER space two directions at the same time. Checkering at 18 and 20 lpi is actually more difficult than say 22 or 24 lpi. The bigger the diamonds the deeper you must go. This means more passes over the lines and potential for more mistakes. I started out at 20 and after about 2 stocks moved up to 22, then did 24 for a long time. I still do 24 lpi a lot but really prefer 26 lpi. Its not any harder and about 2 passes over the lines is all you need. You checkering cradle must be able to hold the stock firmly in place but also allow you to rotate the stock freely. I have had 3 cradles. One home made (Monty Kennedys book) and two from Brownells. The cheap one from Brownells is not worth having in my opinion. The Ralph Bone cradle is extremely nice but expensive. I was hesitant to buy it at first but I do not regret the decision. The Dorion power tool is probably the best money I’ve spent in stockmaking. I hated it at first and if you don’t keep the tool perpendicular to the surface some absolute horrors can occur. I wouldn’t sell it now for anything. Lines are straighter and done much faster. I can’t say enough good things about it. Tight spots are no problem for the tool. Now where was I......... Once your first lines are cut (pattern spaced both directions) I will typically go over them again with the power tool and then move to the F1 Demart cutters for a light finishing pass. You light should be kept behind you shining over your shoulder and keep your body inline with the lines your are cutting. This will keep you from pushing or pulling the line out of shape. Cut your border to full depth and then start checking for shiners. Shiners are diamonds that are not up to a point. Use your F1 cutter to get them to depth. Don’t just leave them sit there. Repairs: When I really screw the proverbial pooch I take some sawdust and super glue and fix it. If I cant cut the line deeper to fix the error I sprinkle some walnut sawdust in the bad spot. Soak it with super glue and let it dry. Then re-cut. You will never see it once the pattern is complete and you have some finish on it. BTW – don’t use English sawdust on a black walnut stock or vice versa. Match up your wood types. Fuzz: Sometimes for what ever reason the wood fuzzes when your checkering and it looks like hell. I soak the area with super glue and make like passes with the hand tool. Cuts the fuzz right off. I've heard of guys burning it off with a propane torch but I’m not that brave. Hope this helps!

30 06va 1 Posts: 19 (6/9/05 14:14) Reply Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When rebarreling do you prefer long chambered and use a lathe or short chambered and use a reamer(with or without a lathe) Thanks z1r 1 Posts: 2806 (6/9/05 14:23) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If I'm gonna use a prechambered blank I prefer them long chambered. 2 reason: One, I don't haave to rent or buy a reamer. Two, no worries about whether both reamers are cut to the same specs. It is possible when finish reaming that the reamer you are using could be undersized or vary in other ways from the reamer used to cut short chamber. Obviously, long chambered is only good if you have access to a lathe, if not you have no real choice but to use a short chambered blank. claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 111 (6/9/05 15:53) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i thought you have to use a lathe either way? what other way is there? z1r 1 Posts: 2807 (6/9/05 16:05) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It is prefered and if properly set up you get better accuracy/ concentricity using a lathe but you can indeed finish ream a short chambered barrel by hand. That is primarily why they are sold short chambered. That's how Midways sells a ton of their barrels, they sell em to the do-it-yerselfer that has no lathe and hand reams it. If you have a lathe and a reamer, why would you not buy a less expensive blank and thread & chamber yourself? You would not pay the premium that short chambered barrels command. If I don't have a reamer and don't want to buy one, I will order a long chambered barrel. If you are only building one of the caliber, you save $ by not renting/buying the reamer. Edited by: z1r at: 6/9/05 16:07 Jimro 1 Posts: 842 (6/10/05 16:18) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll toss another vote for long chambered. Using a dial caliper and a guage set you can calculate how much needs to be taken off and have it done in one shot. Just remember, measure twice cut once. Jimro 30 06va 1 Posts: 20 (6/10/05 20:34) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for the replies! I think I'll give long chambered a shot this time around with my southbend. fmsniper 1 Posts: 698 (6/11/05 22:41) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tell you guys, I have had no choice but to use Short chambered and it works fine but I have full intentions of getting a larger lathe when I get back to the USA, so I can get Long chambered barrels or chamber it my self. I had 2 bad dealings with short chambered were as one I scored the chamber pretty bad and the other I went to deep and had no lathe to fix it until I found one Base, any way I need a good lathe to handle a 1 inch shank, of course when I get back to the USA... speared um 1 Posts: 90 (6/13/05 14:33) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm using a Gunsmith, so does it matter? Or, will the smith provide the barrel? I'm new Dante' z1r 1 Posts: 2824 (6/13/05 15:03) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you are using a smith let him tell you what bbl & method he wants & see if that is ok with you. I for one would not want the cutomer to supply a short chambered bbl. Now, if he already had it we'd have to pow-wow. It is often preferable to let the smith get the bbl.. He usually gets a discount & even with a small markup can pass this savings on to you. They need to eat too. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 497 (6/13/05 18:28) Reply Re: Chambers, long or short? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- They need to eat too. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- And we should try our best to feed the good ones as often the opportunity presents. I am Bubba (but learning)

roscoedoh 1 Posts: 886 (6/12/05 22:56) Reply Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I was tinkering with my Wheeler jig the other night and have made the following observation: the centering pin just ahead of the front bushing does nothing to determine whether or not the jig is actually centered left-right, rather it controls where the jig stops in relation to front to back. I further noticed that once you tighten the jig down on the receiver, nothing moves. From that I draw this conclusion: if I wanted to move the scope holes in the rear bridge to accomodate a mount different than what this jig is setup for, all I would have to do is unscrew the centering pin and move the jig forwards or backwards depending on where I needed it. The stand-off bushings determine left-right ailment so they shouldn't factor into front-back ailment. What all this means is I can D/T an intermediate length receiver for odd mounts or a standard length receiver for FN style mounts and be able to put the rear mount where I want it rather than where Wheeler has determined it should be. ________________ What do you guys think? Have any of you all discovered this? Or an I off base with these observations? What do yall think? claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 117 (6/13/05 1:21) Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i think you should leave it up to wheeler to determine where the hole should go tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 320 (6/13/05 5:22) Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jason what you just figured out is exactly what i did to drill a mauser for a fn and a mauser 2 piece mount it just takes some figuring and patience. Rod Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 824 (6/13/05 7:36) Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a B-Square jig, which is essentially the same thing. To t&t the rear holes, I used the guide bar marked "S" (Springfield). I did the front 2 holes with the standard "M" ( Mauser) bar, then switched bars. The second bar has different distances between the hole sets, not the holes themselve. This allowed me more latitude to position the rear two holes. mod70 1 Posts: 174 (6/13/05 7:58) Reply ezSupporter Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Roscoe One of the older posts mentioned moving the Wheeler jig around to accommodate various mounts other than the standard 1pc Leupolds, et.al. It can be done but does introduce the possibility of getting the second set of hole(s) slightly off in one plane or the other. If done carefully with the 'measure twice cut once' method it can be done successfully. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 496 (6/13/05 8:52) Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dudes, the receiver bottom is flat - a convenient Mauser feature. These jigs take advantage of this feature by using a tight-fitting rod to secure the flat-bottomed receiver to the jig. There's virtually no lateral movement possible. You can move the assembly fore and aft - but as mentioned you may have to remove the indexing screw. I am Bubba (but learning) z1r 1 Posts: 2820 (6/13/05 9:44) Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not having one of these but knowing the basics of how they work I'd have to agree with DT & Jason with regards to hole placement. Heck, that is essentially how odd spacing is handled with the Forster Jig too. The front holes will be properly placed on any large ring receiver whether Intermediate or Standard length so do these first. Then after carefully marking the rear hole location, you can move the jig anywhere you want in order to drill the rear hole(s).

donmarkey 1 Posts: 38 (6/12/05 17:58) Reply 220 swift -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Any info? Midway has barrels for$60 Don Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 815 (6/12/05 17:59) Reply Re: 220 swift -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I got two of their fluted SS in 220 Swift. Now to install them. They look good. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 491 (6/12/05 18:03) Reply Re: 220 swift -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How will a Swift feed in a Mauser - someone here must have built one? I am Bubba (but learning) Edited by: Doble Troble at: 6/12/05 18:03 Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 817 (6/12/05 18:10) Reply Re: 220 swift -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Since it is longer than the 22/250 and tapered it should feed okay. Remember it is a Semi Rimmed design, so you have to make sure that the shells are stacked properly in the magazine. Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 821 (6/12/05 19:02) Reply Re: 220 swift -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I plan on using a couple of Yugos to build my 220 Swifts on, something about using a full length action for such a short case bothers me. Plus, I have just enough magnum faced bolts and matching standard length actions.

claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 112 (6/9/05 16:29) teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- where can i get Teflon coating done and how much does it cost? also has anyone used it before? i have never seen a gun with it or talk to someone that has used it but it seems like a good idea. also where can i get some info on finishing a stock? i have decided to get a richards microfit wildcat or dual grip in semi fancy grade claro walnut or grade A claro walnut. Odies dad 1 Posts: 284 (6/10/05 7:42) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I thought a film of Teflon would be the ticket to slick up and tighten a Mauser action but don't know how to go about doing it. As to the stock, On my Richards, I used the Truoil kit and am very happy with the results. It comes with the instructions. Be prepared to do a lot of sanding, but you will love the results. Liberals are the only known species whose powers of reasoning are not improved by the benefit of hindsight. SB48 1 Posts: 14 (6/10/05 8:09) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- you might check with Ford's Refinishing in Florida about the teflon? I've never been a big fan of this finish, peels too easy. Remember, teflon is used to make the outside surface of thing slick. As for stock finish, I prefer the Danish tongue oil. to Casey's, and it's much easier to work with. Jimro 1 Posts: 841 (6/10/05 16:16) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My dad had it done on a 7mm Mag, was a nice touch. A lot more impervious to the elements than a standard bluing job. Jimro claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 114 (6/10/05 16:43) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- well now that i think of it, ive never seen a teflon coating pan that lasted more than 3 years, maby its not that great or it mgiht have somethin to do with the heat in a pan Doble Troble 1 Posts: 485 (6/10/05 18:29) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I got in trouble about a year ago for searing some steaks in my wife's new teflon pan at 500*. The center bubbled and ruined the thing. The steaks were still good . I now reach for my well-seasoned cast iron without fail. I think of a well-seasoned cast iron pan as essentially rust blued. It's impervious to everything, including a good scrubbing which I discourage but am not around all the time to prevent. I am Bubba (but learning) Mauser98 1 Posts: 47 (6/10/05 23:40) Reply Re: teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I had my FN(Mauser) in .35 Whelen tefloned a few years ago. It looked great for a year or so but soon the bolt knob was peeled bare. What really did it for me was when i peeled the electricials tape off the muzzle and the teflon came with it. I ended up wire brushing the telfon off. It was the only way I could get it off. Next step - rust blueing. horsefly 1 Posts: 1124 (6/11/05 4:44) Reply Re:teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Claytonfaulkner,I'm glad you ask this question about teflon,because it's something I've wondered about myself and now am convinced it's something I'll not mess with.Jerry fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 580 (6/11/05 19:24) Reply Re: Re:teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I still say you can't beat a good old-fashioned hot bluing job. It has been around so long now that it has stood the test of time, but then they didn't have teflon in those "old days". If folks would just clean their guns before storing them, it will be good for generations. fritz "It seems like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 813 (6/11/05 23:31) Reply Re: Re:teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have used the KG Coating spray on/bake on paint for several guns. Before I bought them I asked Customer Service at KG Coatings which was harder. Their response was that the Teflon based paint was the softest, with the Moly based next up the ladder, and the Boron (Stainless Steel colored) based paint the hardest. donmarkey 1 Posts: 33 (6/12/05 6:34) Reply Re: Re:teflon coating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It softer because of it's lubricating properties. Don mod70 1 Posts: 170 (6/12/05 15:44) Reply ezSupporter KG coatings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sailorman Was it you who said in the 'old' gun coatings thread that you use a stainless steel coating from some company that you have been very satisfied with? The poster also quoted prices and ordering info IIRC. I sure wish those old threads would be found & restored! Doble Troble 1 Posts: 490 (6/12/05 18:00) Reply Re: KG coatings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dust in the wind. And no apology from hardboards. The good thing is is that people are still posting and the knowledge base will be restored in time - if FC hasn't been terminally frustrated with all his wasted time. Another good thing is that the system seems to be running smoother. But I betcha once the knowledge accumulates to it's former level that the system will bog down again. Maybe Oliver Stone would suspect that the mysterious hacker was hardboards just trying to postpone upgrading hardware. I am Bubba (but learning) Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 816 (6/12/05 18:07) Reply Re: KG coatings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mod70, yes, I used the KG Coatings "Brushed Stainless Steel" finish. Seems to be very hard and smooth, I like it. Not as dark as the finish on the Ruger SS guns. Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 818 (6/12/05 18:33) Reply Re: KG coatings mod70 1 Posts: 171 (6/12/05 18:44) Reply ezSupporter Re: KG coatings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks sailorman That is the brand I was trying to remember. Love that look and have 2 projects I am working on that I want to do with that finish. Where do you buy it? I have an airbrush and and an adjustable full size sprayer and am building an oven so I need to go ahead and order some paint. Is there anything else I need? I am going to bead blast the metal before application. What do you use to block off the inside of the receiver when you do yours? Any tips you would be willing to pass along from your experiences? Sailormilan2 1 Posts: 819 (6/12/05 18:53) Reply Re: KG coatings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mod70, scoped rifle is a 22/250 with polished SS barrel and natural metal receiver. Second rifle is a 35 Whelen with the KG Coatings Brushed Stainless Finish.

sphingta 1 Posts: 202 (6/11/05 15:08) Reply thoughts on 8-40 or 6-48 scope mounting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm finally getting around to putting together a 280 rem on a vz-24 action and i have the scope jig with both sets of bushings and was wondering if any one had any real opinions one which screws to use. I'll be using a one piece base Mauser98 1 Posts: 48 (6/11/05 17:29) Reply Re: thoughts on 8-40 or 6-48 scope mounting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6-48's are more than ample for the .280. It's when you get into the heavy kickers that the 8-40's are useful. The only draw-back to using the 8-40's it you'll have to modify the base to fit the bigger screw. z1r 1 Posts: 2814 (6/11/05 17:37) Reply Re: thoughts on 8-40 or 6-48 scope mounting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I agree that 6x48's are enough. In fact, they are really all that is needed on big boomers too. 8x40's are generally a bandaid to patch a poor base/receiver fit due to today's loose manufacturing tolerances. The best use I have for 8x40's is for fixing crooked or misdrilled 6x48's. Clarkma 1 Posts: 383 (6/11/05 18:51) Reply Re: thoughts on 8-40 or 6-48 scope mounting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have the 8-40 screws ready for when I strip out the 6-48 threads in the reciever, but so far, all my 6-48 threads are doing fine. sphingta 1 Posts: 203 (6/12/05 16:23) Reply Re: thoughts on 8-40 or 6-48 scope mounting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- thanks for the reply's I was wondering why the need for 8-40's when 6-48's have been working for so long. Didn't think about stripped threads

fmsniper 1 Posts: 699 (6/11/05 22:48) Reply receiver hardning? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As many of you know I am sitting here in a country were civilians cannot own fire arms S. Korea. The way they drive it might be a good thing. Anyhow I bought a DVD on ebay for the hell of it, AGI ( how to blue print and re-barrel a Mauser bolt action) After watching the DVD I realized that I knew and did 99% of everything showed....but Money was not waisted I did learn 1 or 2 things..He did mention that it is absolutely critical to have the receiver and bolt re-hardend after.....I have never done that...what about you guys? I di also learn about recoil shoulders in the mag box and adjusting the claw extractor for a magnum, other than that nothing much else.. Edited by: fmsniper at: 6/11/05 22:49 fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 586 (6/11/05 23:12) Reply Re: receiver hardning? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, some do and some don't. I don't. fritz "It seems like yesterday, but it was long ago---we were young and strong and running against the wind" Elarski 1 Posts: 146 (6/12/05 0:00) Reply Re: receiver hardning? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for the info on hardening... something to consider. By the way, what ever happened with your video project? It is better to die standing, than to live on one's knees. donmarkey 1 Posts: 32 (6/12/05 6:32) Reply receiver hardning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Who was the instructor, Darrel Holland?. I seen the new title and was interrested in more info. What was the other interresting topics that came up? Don z1r 1 Posts: 2818 (6/12/05 10:34) Reply Re: receiver hardning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The guy on the viedo, Bob Dunlap is one of the guys I studied under. Bottom line is, if you find a heat treater that KNOWS what they are doing with respect to carbon augmentation & heat treating of mausers get it done. Otherwise, leave it as is. Worst thing that will happen if you don't get the receiver hardened is setback, sometimes rather quickly too. Problem we had is that they recomended this but there were no treaters willing to do the work. Too many have been scared off by hacks not knowing what he hell they were doing then threatening to sue. Though not the best, Blanchards is the only one I can recommend at this time. They have been doing this for a long time, won't screw things up. Heck, even Kuhnhausen recomends them. Clarkma 1 Posts: 384 (6/12/05 12:41) Reply Re: receiver hardning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have never had rehardened, but of the 50 or 60 Mausers I have taken apart, I just found one with set back this week: a 1903 Turk Mauser. I might cross section the reciever and test the hardness, or sell it, or just put it in storage. Anyway, I have seen set back, and it could be hardness issue.

montea6b 1 Posts: 252 (6/2/05 20:40) Reply Flaco's stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One of the first signs that something was wrong with this board was when I failed 3 times in a row to post a comment on the photos Flaco posted of his stock. Beautiful wood, and exquisite craftsmanship! Sharp edges do look good. Was that the same stock featured in your "debut image" post a while back? Oh, yeah... the fine northwest ale. I didn't even notice at first as my eyes were glazed over admiring the stock. Thanks for pointing it out. A refreshing and appropriate reward for a job well done. flaco 1 Posts: 220 (6/2/05 21:39) Reply Re: Flaco's stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Actually, Monty, this is the stock for Project #2. It's moving along, slowly, as these things do: I've wet sanded a couple more times, the most recent with tung oil and #600. If you look at the better custom rifle sites, you'll notice that most recently some of the guys seem to be obsessing on sharp edges on the flutes. And yes, that's one of my favorite Washington exports. flaco montea6b 1 Posts: 253 (6/2/05 22:14) Reply Re: Flaco's stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ah, the pictures are back! Thanks for the inspiration. rebel49 1 Posts: 30 (6/3/05 20:36) Reply Re: Flaco's stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flaco: Can you post Sovern's formula and procedure for the thinned varnish prep of the stock? Since we lost the archives and I can't remember it, I need it. Rebel49 Bt the way beautiful stock!!!!!!!!! 30 06va 1 Posts: 21 (6/10/05 20:50) Reply Re: Flaco's stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This one and the stock in "Debut Image" are Super!! I seem to remember you talking about rust blueing in one of your post,if so could I ask where you got your info. for your method. The blue showing in Debut Image was stunning. Thanks

TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 19 (6/9/05 16:27) Reply 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (also posted on AR forum) I have a 1917 Remington action (partially sporterized) with a shot out barrel. I want to use it for a 416 Rem Mag or larger. I have a P14 bolt. If I order a prethreaded and chambered barrel, do I order one for a P14 so the breach is non-coned? Are the threads the same on the 1914 and the 1917? I know this is not an easy conversion and I may not be able to do it but I would still like to know the answer to the question? thanks, Scott z1r 1 Posts: 2808 (6/9/05 16:38) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Can I ask a really stupid question, why not just get a 1917 bolt? I don't think that pre-threaded & chambered barrels are available at least not like they are for the mauser. If I'm not mistaken they both have square threads but I'm not sure if they are the same of not. I bet Ty would know. Edited by: z1r at: 6/9/05 16:42 TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 20 (6/9/05 16:59) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a 1917 bolt also. I am just trying to figure out if it is more work to open up the face on the 1917 or deal with the whole coned/non-coned mess. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 878 (6/9/05 17:38) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aside from the coned breech mess, give Woody at Lothar Walther a call and see if it is possible to purchase a pre-threaded barrel from them. As many big boomers are built on Enfields, I would be surprised if they couldn't do a barrel for you. Otherwise, if all else fails, you might let a gunsmith mount the barrel for you and then do everything else yourself. That's about where I'm at with my projects right now. Also, are you still down around TAMU? Jason Stephen F. Austin State University Class of 2005! sonic1 1 Posts: 158 (6/9/05 18:34) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- treads are the BUT model 1917 tread shank is .800 were a p-14 is only .720 ...added a pic img.villagephotos.com/p/2...ldsxxx.JPG Edited by: sonic1 at: 6/9/05 19:11 TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 21 (6/9/05 19:29) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am in the Dallas area now. Thanks sonic1 - the picture was worth 1000 words - answered all my questions. I think ER Shaw does prethreaded and chambered barrels for the enfield but I am not sure if any of the high quality makers do. z1r 1 Posts: 2809 (6/9/05 22:26) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's shank Length, diameter is the same. It stands to reason that the p17 is longer as it is coned. Not knowing these that well I would speculate that if you used the P14 bolt you would simply thread a barrel as you would a p14 barrel. IMHO, it would be about as easy to use the p17. One thing I do know is that the p14 bolt will accomodate a much larger rim than the p17. So if really big cases are in your future you may want to save the p14 bolt. roscoedoh 1 Posts: 882 (6/10/05 2:00) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The P14 was designed for the .303 cartridge which has a head size of around .532" if I recall. Anywho, the other night I dug out a 300 Win Mag cartridge and put it back to back with a .303 and they were really pretty darn close. Since the .416 Rem Mag is based on the same cartridge the 300 Win Mag was based on, you might try and load a magnum cartridge into the P14 bolt and see if it fits. If it does, it may save you a little work down the road. May also help decide which bolt to use and how to install the barrel. Just something I thought of. Jason Stephen F. Austin State University Class of 2005! TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 22 (6/10/05 7:04) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did try a 458 magnum in the P14 bolt and it fits. The thing about using the 1917 bolt is that since it has a 45 degree slope on the forward face of the left (or top) lug - it leaves very little metal to hold the rim once you open it up. On the other hand the coned breach should make it easy to feed once you get the round out of the magazine. z1r 1 Posts: 2811 (6/10/05 8:59) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "The thing about using the 1917 bolt is that since it has a 45 degree slope on the forward face of the left (or top) lug - it leaves very little metal to hold the rim once you open it up." If you had a p17 bolt in hand you would see that this is true only of very large rims, at least those larger than the .532" rim of the H&H derived magnum. For those really big cases it could become an issue as you described but also more practically you loose the cartridge guides that the ends of the bevel provide. Much like the Yugo mausers don't have those two liitle nubs by the extractor slot. they can sometimes be problematic when it comes to feeding. Since you already ave the p14 and apparently the bolt face is already about the right size for the magnum rim then I'd probably use it and cut the barrel like it was going on a P14. The only thing I see as potentially problematic is the extractor. Makes sure it will provide a tight enough grip. the rim of the .303 might be thicker than that of the magnum. In which case you may need to either build it up or use the p17 extractor if it fits. TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 23 (6/10/05 10:47) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I posed this question to a guy at ER Shaw and his reply was to order a 1914 barrel if I use the 1914 bolt and order a 1917 barrel if I use the 1917 bolt (not that I will necessarily order a barrel from them). He confirmed that they do offer prethreaded and chambered (even short chambered) barrels for the 1917 & P14 in a variety of calibers. The more I look at the coned breach the more I like it so I will probably just open the face on the 1917 bolt. Scott z1r 1 Posts: 2812 (6/10/05 12:10) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In my limited experience it appears that the P17 extractor is large too, something I'd personally feel better about if constructing a DG rifle. .416 rem ought to be nice or perhaps the .458 lott. Are you going to convert it to cock on open or leave it as-is? Did you ever see this Enfield: forums.accuratereloading....r=37110094 There was another Tom did on the Hollowellco.com website once. He is very adept at building nice Enfields. TAMU90DVM 1 Posts: 24 (6/10/05 15:17) Reply Re: 1917 action/ 1914 bolt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I thought about cock on open but then I read an opinion that cock on close was not a bad thing on a DG rifle - easier to lift the bolt handle and extract the brass. I'm still undecided. That is one beautiful rifle in the link you provided. I hope to have a lot of the features it has. I don't mind the military safety and I don't know that I will change the bottom metal as much as they did. I am thinking about geting a barrel band rear sight with a 2nd recoil lug from NECG rather than the peep sight. Will certainly have quick release scope mounts. Probably NECG front sight ramp with flip up ivory bead for low light. Plan to get the best walnut I can reasonable afford with ebony tip and red recoil pad.

Rustybore 1 Posts: 75 (6/3/05 19:48) Reply 03-A3 barrels -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Are the two groove barrels worth using on a Mauser action. I have the opportunity to buy a couple and was thinking of using one for a 308. The barrels are dated 43-44, one Smith Corona, the others Remington. Also one Remington 4 groove. I'm sure this has been addressed before, but...... Kevin in Or. z1r 1 Posts: 2785 (6/3/05 22:03) Reply Re: 03-A3 barrels -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In a word, yes. If they are inexpensive enough as there is some work to be done to fit them. They have the reputation as being good shooters. It used to be a very common way to rebarrel mausers, using both the 2 groove & 4 groove bbls. rickrote 1 Posts: 5 (6/9/05 9:58) Reply Re: 03-A3 barrels -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That is exactly what the Chilean Army did in the 60s. They took 1903 barrels, rethreaded, and rechambered for 308. The 2 I have shoot pretty good for open sights. stevenjay1 1 Posts: 1 (6/10/05 12:11) Reply Re: 03-A3 barrels -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When I was in high School (mid 60's) I worked as a apprentice to a gunsmith. As a side project, I build a hunting rifle using a German 98K action with a two groove Remington 03A3 barrel and chambered it for .308 Winchester. It will hold a 3/4" group at 100 yards with 165 grain bullets. It is still the rifle I take for most hunting trips. Nuf said. Steve Edited by: stevenjay1 at: 6/10/05 12:12

Some of our laws suck pond water unfortunately. Even though I understand the original reason behind that particular law it still doesn't make a dang bit of sense. After all criminals don't pay a bit of attention to the law anyway...

Glad you don't mind FC. I'll continue as I can moving as much as I can.

farktoof 1 Posts: 1 (6/9/05 6:09) Reply Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In Jerry Kuhnhausen's book he recommends re-heat treating a bolt after welding a new or modified bolt handle on.Even when using a heat sink and heat control paste. Is it really neccesary when taking all these precautions, and if it is, where do you get it done and at what approx. price? When you forge the existing handle the same applies and according to him the forging process uses alot more heat than just welding. Great forum you guys have here, tragedy what happened to all the posts though. Clemsongunsmith 1 Posts: 285 (6/9/05 6:21) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Properly done with the heat sink and heat control paste, TIG welding a bolt should not alter any of the wear surfaces. I have never re-heat treated a bolt. I have heard of bolts whose cocking cams were softened in the handle-forging process, but properly done forged bolts are OK, too. I generally live by the Kuhnhausen recommendations, but the heat treating ones I take as "recommendations" and not as "Necessities." I would probably change my tune if faced with a receiver with unknown parentage or obvious abuse or a bolt with discoloration from high heat. Clemson US Army Veteran NRA Life Member NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder Garand Collectors'Association z1r 1 Posts: 2804 (6/9/05 7:10) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why don't you use the heat treater's he recommends: Blanchards in Utah. Clemsongunsmith 1 Posts: 286 (6/9/05 9:22) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If I were going to use a heat treater, I'd use Blanchard. Unless I have reason to think that an action or a bolt is unsafe, I don't go through the heat treat process. Military Mausers were not made from steel that hardens with heat/quench cycles. Their carbon content is typically too low for that. Their wear resistance comes from a skin on the surface. They are pretty soft underneath. They may be very tough, but they are typically not very hard underneath the case. If the case hardening of the cocking notch and bolt lug recesses is not altered in some way, I don't normally go to the heat treater. Don't take that as a recommendation -- it is just the way I have handled my actions. Clemson US Army Veteran NRA Life Member NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder Garand Collectors'Association Clarkma 1 Posts: 382 (6/9/05 18:47) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kuhnhausen's book drove me nuts. It is lecture notes processed by an obviously lazy editor. I worked through the scatter brained organization, because I wanted to sporterize a Mauser in 1999. We made action truing mandrels for Turks and for VZ24s based on the prose description in the book. Likewise for inner C ring lapping tools and lug lapping tools. So I guess I got something out of the torture. Reading Walsh's book on sporterizing Mausers, it is written between the lines that he wrote the book because he was so angry at Kuhnhausen's book's organization. I have never had anything heat treated, and I shoot very hot loads in Mausers and 91/30s. The only reason I can think for Kuhnhausen's book to ascribe so much heat treating is for adding fees to gunsmithing. I do not let Dentists x-ray me, and I would not let any gunsmith send a Mauser of mine out for heat treat. I have a Thermodyne 4800 Watt 2000 Degree F furnace for heat treating, but I am not going to put any Mauser parts in there. Not unless I make them from scratch. I weld and I bend Mauser bolt handles, and I am careful not to get the straw color to reach the cocking cam at the rear of the bolt. I use welder's paste, and a home made butressing thread brass heat sink to keep the bolt temperature under control. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 481 (6/9/05 19:00) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have Kuhnhausen's Garand book and share Clarkma's opinion regarding his organizational style. It's all in there, but not easy to get it out. Maybe some find the style straight-forward...different strokes. I won't be buying another one of his tomes and will probably EvilBay his Garand manual that is collecting dust in my shop. I've devolved to Roy Dunlap's method for welding bolt handles - stuff it with a wet paper towel, wrap as much of the outside as you can with a wet rag and OA weld the thing on. I start from the back, turn it over and do the front, and then take care of the sides. Build up layers and add more material than you think is necessary. Too little and you'll have a dip to fill and you have to cook it twice. If you think you cooked the cocking cam too much, heat it cherry red and drop it in a bucket of water (Edit: heat it cherry red with a carburizing flame - a little rich on the acetylene adds carbon [i think - seems to make steel hard]). Another tip: grind the root of the handle thin before you try to weld it (1/8 - 1/4") and add material over it. The welding's easier than the grinding and filing afterward. If I was a better welder I suspect this wouldn't be true. This is my current VERY Bubba approach - good luck with whatever approach you take. I am Bubba (but learning) Edited by: Doble Troble at: 6/9/05 19:05 Clemsongunsmith 1 Posts: 287 (6/9/05 19:35) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, guys, I have to say that I like the Kuhnhausen books and don't find them at all disorganized. Different strokes, I suppose.... I don't have a thing against those who choose to heat treat their Mausers. I just don't see the need for the ones that I have worked on. Clemson US Army Veteran NRA Life Member NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder Garand Collectors'Association tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 319 (6/9/05 19:54) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- well when i tig weld on a new handle it never gets that hot i can grab bolt in hand clear down to middle of guide rib and not get burnt. If your good you can get on and off very fast not like O A its much slower and more heat needed to make a weld puddle tig is very concentrated. Rod z1r 1 Posts: 2810 (6/9/05 22:32) Reply Re: Bolt handles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I too liked Kuhnhausen's book. It is maybe not organized as well as it could be but Walsh's book is pure crap. Not a damn thing in it worth the price of the book. The possible exception might be the plans for the D&T jig but if you have spent the money of rthe book on the jig you'd have been better off. Clark, I'm glad you don't try to heat treat mausers in your little oven, you'd ruin it. Unless you also possess the means to add carbon to the outer layers of the action you would justbe wasting your time. Your oven would be very handy however for heat treating other high carbon steels. That much I envy.

mikeh3 1 Posts: 46 (6/5/05 15:24) Reply 1903 Rock Island low serial number -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a good 1903 Rock Island low serial number rifle with a RA 1944 barrel serial number (179xxx) that I would like to shoot but was told these rifles were not safe to shoot. I also was told that a large number of our troops used low serial number Rock Island rifles during the second world war without any problems. It was said that the real problems came from early 30-06 ammo. What is the real story, does anyone have any experience with shooting these rifles? gun nutty 1 Posts: 29 (6/5/05 20:47) Reply Re: 1903 Rock Island low serial number -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm sure I'll get some crap for this... If it's a "low numbered" rifle, and you'd like to shoot it as-is (i.e., with no modifications) I know of no reason why it can't be used with cast bullets and reduced loads. I am talking about REALLY light loads. If you want to remodel it as a sporter and run full-power loads through it, get another rifle. Any Springfield rifle has collector value, and you can sell it and get three or more fine, safe mausers for the sale price. Punching paper is the same with a bullet at 1200 fps or 2800fps. If you take care in building uniform, consistent loads, you will be rewarded with accurate results on paper. Midway does sell pre-cast 30 caliber bullets in 115, 165, 170, and 200 grains. These have gas checks and appear to be pre-lubed. The only thing that you'd need to load these is a case mouth "belling" die to open the case mouth enough to prevent shaving the bullet during seating. mikeh3 1 Posts: 48 (6/7/05 5:29) Reply Re: 1903 Rock Island low serial number -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for your reply. You have given me two options that I will think about. Thanks again, Mike SB48 1 Posts: 11 (6/7/05 21:26) Reply Re: 1903 Rock Island low serial number -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Try this site. Lots of good info on Springfields. m1903.com/

Emmett Dunham 1 Posts: 18 (6/5/05 11:52) Reply Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just purchased a M1917 enfield sportrized rifle that has no military markings on it anywhere except under the bolt handle, I thought the rifle may be a model 30 but it is not marked with the model number. The rifle came with a Chief 3x scope and no front sight. The stock is a beautful Herters walnut stock. I thought that this rifle may be a rifel modifyed by Herters or some Remington that is off the wall. Remington wanted a picture of the rifle to I.D. it, I thought there maybe someone here who may be able to I.D. this rifle. Emmett AzRednek 1 Posts: 358 (6/5/05 12:22) Reply Re: Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Emmet I'm speculating, chances are good with the thousands of Enfields that were dumped on the US market after WW2 your's is likely sportorized 1917. To the best of my knowledge Remington never made a Model 30 without iron sights. Herters did sell surplus arms, possibly they sold it with a stock. Any way you can post a picture?? tinkerfive 1 Posts: 269 (6/5/05 21:40) Reply Re: Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- if it is a 1917, than if you take the scope base off of the front ring you should find the markins you need. 1917's and 1914's are stamped at just about 12:00 on the front ring. At least that is where mine are stamped. Tinker Emmett Dunham 1 Posts: 19 (6/5/05 21:43) Reply Re: Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No pictures at this time. The barrel has the same markings on it as the model 30, Springfield 30 cal 1906 at the receiver on the left side, the same prof marks in a row on the right side as the model thirty and the Remington Company name and location mid way up the barrel. The receiver at the front were you would find U.S., date of manufacture, manufacture name and serial number there is only R E with a circle around it, below this on the right side is the serial number. Thanks for any info! Emmett tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 316 (6/5/05 22:17) Reply Re: Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well Emmet I have 2 of them and its a remington made P 14 enfield action both have re in a oval on front receiver ring. it was probably built of parts in 50's or 60's. Rod Emmett Dunham 1 Posts: 20 (6/6/05 19:52) Reply Re: Remington 3006 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thank, you Any further info will be consumed. Emmett

Doc Forester 1 Posts: 25 (6/3/05 23:06) Reply Scope Mount Jigs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am trying to decide to buy a scope mount jig or use the method Mr. Wagner describes on his site. I like the simplicity of Wagner's method but I could not use weaver bases should I so choose. So I might buy a jig. The Wheeler jig is the least expensive. Is there any reason you must remove the barrel before using the Wheeler jig? Could I not drill just deep enough to use a bottoming tap in the front reciever ring? Will the fixture not fit into the action with the barrel in place? I know there is the danger of contacting the barrel threads but I am not planning on removing the barrels after I have the actions tapped. If I do use Wagner's technique which one piece bases will clear the charging hump without filing the hump down? z1r 1 Posts: 2786 (6/3/05 23:20) Reply Re: Scope Mount Jigs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Doc, All the major brands make two different 1 pc bases. One for the FN (sans hump) and one for the 98. I used the Leupold. Most if not all the jigs are designed to be used with the barrel off so you can drill straight through. They will not fit with the barrel on unless you modify them. They probably designed it that way for liability issues. Some of the folks here have modified theirs and can tell you how. Odies dad 1 Posts: 284 (6/6/05 9:15) Reply Re: Scope Mount Jigs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You can use Steve's method with the Weaver bases too. I do mine that way. You may not be able to interchange with a one piece base later but it is fine for the one you intall. Leave enough room on the rear of the front ring so you son't drill and tap into the bolt lug boss area. Liberals are the only known species whose powers of reasoning are not improved by the benefit of hindsight.

AzRednek 1 Posts: 355 (6/3/05 23:09) Reply Near Mis-hap -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I know I’m a little off topic but this involves a Voere Rifle that is simply a commercial 98 Mauser. About a year ago after having trouble with the factory adjustable trigger and tang safety I took it into Timney and they installed and adjusted a new trigger with the side safety. Today I can thank my lucky stars for safe gun handling. I released the safety and it shot without touching the trigger. Kind of a shock especially it being a heavy recoiling 308 Norma Mag loaded with a 200gr slug and a hot load. Fortunately I was following range rules and had it pointed down range while I loaded and cocked it. I came close to dropping it and wound up burning the web my hand slightly by grabbing the hot barrel after it recoiled out of my other hand. After my nerves settled I tried it on an empty chamber and it did it again. I checked the clearance between the trigger and trigger guard, it doesn’t appear to be the problem as I first suspected. I don’t feel qualified to attempt to fix it. I’m first bringing it to Timney and if they can’t fix it, it’s going to a good smith. I learned a big lesson today and I certainly hope you guys building Mauser sporters keep what happened to me in mind. My trigger and safety was professionally installed, adjusted and it still failed. Timney makes a fine product, possibly the best after-market trigger one can get for a Mauser. Even a fine product and a professional installation can fail, please guys take my word for it, never depend on an after market safety and always keep it pointed in a safe direction. z1r 1 Posts: 2787 (6/3/05 23:23) Reply Re: Near Mis-hap -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I dislike the side safties but what you described can just as easily happen on any aftermarket trigger. Glad you were following the rules and that all worked out well! mod70 1 Posts: 164 (6/4/05 8:39) Reply ezSupporter Re: Near Mis-hap -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for sharing AZ. We do tend to get a bit complacent when things always seem to work the way we expect them to and your experience is another excellent illustration and reminder that rules are typically in place for a good reason and that it only takes one aberrant incident to potentially cause an irreparable disaster. Just curious as to whether you have tried closing the bolt on a round with the safety off to see if the FP falls upon bolt closure? Sounds as if the sear is not making enough contact? AzRednek 1 Posts: 356 (6/4/05 11:00) Reply Re: Near Mis-hap -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mod 70, haven't had a chance yet. I'll likely try it tonight and let you know. OldgrandpainMI 1 Posts: 66 (6/5/05 8:20) Reply Re: Near Mis-hap -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AZ, Thank you for relaying that incident to this site. After reading it, I showed my 15 year old daughter your post. The first thing she said to me after reading it was "SAFETY FIRST"!!! She has been shooting a bow for 8 years, but started shooting rifles/shotguns for only a couple years now! It fell in line with what I preach, each and every time I put a weapon in her hands: #1- What comes out of the barrel of a weapon??? DEATH!!! #2- Safety FIRST, fun second!!! #3- Follow the rules, even if you don't agree with them!!!! Your actions at the range were common sense rules, regardless of the range/posted rules, which may have saved someone (including yourself) from being injured or killed! In some ways, I wish an incident like that could be shown to young gun handlers, as it happens, as it could scare them enough to imprint safety to them for life!!! OGPIM Sporterized weapons are like children...... Half the fun in having them is making them!!! Edited by: OldgrandpainMI at: 6/5/05 8:33 MorgansBoss 1 Posts: 897 (6/5/05 9:24) Reply safties... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have been a firearms safety instructor for over ten years. One of the most important things we try to get through to our students is that safeties fail. The actual phrase is: a safety is a mechanical devise, and any mechanical devise can malfunction. NEVER, EVER rely on a safety catch to prevent a gun from firing and ALWAYS keep a loaded firearm (or any firearm) pointed in a safe direction. A firearm is simply a machine. It relies on interacting mechanical parts to do what it's supposed to. When those interactions do not work as intended, the gun will not do what it's supposed to either. There simply is no room for error. Firearms can accidental discharge but people are only shot through intent or negligence! Your observance of safe handling rules (having the gun pointed in a safe direction) is admirable. Never forget this lesson! AzRednek 1 Posts: 357 (6/5/05 11:54) Reply Re: safties... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thx guys for the comments, had a nightmare about the dam thing last night. Mod70 I tried jamming the bolt home as hard as possible several times and the striker stays put. I noticed this morning the bolt was very difficult to lift and couldn't get it up without pulling the trigger. The striker stays put untill I engage the safety, once I move the safety into the "safe" position the striker moves forward slightly making a loud click. I apparently coudn't't hear it at the range with ear muffs on. I also was wearing silicone plugs underneath, an adjacent shooter was shooting a 50 BMG with a muzzle brake. When I move the safety to the fire position the striker moves all the way forward. I'm supposed to go out of town sometime this week. I'm going to try and make time to bring it to Timney's factory. Hopefully that fixes it but one thing for dam sure I'll never trust it or any safety again. fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 542 (6/5/05 22:06) Reply Re: safties... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There was an article in our local paper today about an incident that happened the other day in Victoria. A 9mm slug ended up in the bedroom of a 2 year old. It had passed through from another room where it shattered a glass candle, dropping shards in the cradle of a 2 week old child. It came through the wall from a neighbor's house (upon investigation by the law), and was traced to a closet in the neighbor's house. The closet just happened to have 3 more bullet holes in the roof, and a 9mm pistol was found under a sofa. The neighbor was arrested on reckless behavior charges. Accident? I doubt it, he was probably drunk. fritz "Against the wind, we were running against the wind. We were young and strong and running against the wind." claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 101 (6/6/05 2:39) Reply Re: safties... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this guy i know had just got a new gun and was showin it to some ppl and one guy waslookin at it and put a round in the chamber and then the first guy didnt know and took it and said "look it a double action too" and shot a hole in the floor. the whole incident happend out of pure stupidity

montea6b 1 Posts: 249 (6/2/05 13:18) Reply Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I recently picked up an aluminum boat fuel tank at the local recycle center. I was planning on cutting it in half, using the sealed side as a boiling tank for rust blueing of longer parts, and making a damp cabinet out of the side with the plumbing fixtures. I'm looking for any suggestions as to how to make a clean cut. I could use a cutting torch as I have a cheap oxy/acetelyne rig, but I'd have to rent tanks and set it up as I've never had it out of the box. Plus, this method would need more cleaning up of the edges and would be more difficult to keep straight. I was thinking that maybe a large diameter abrasive type cut-off wheel mounted in a circular saw might work. The cut would probably be clean, and I could use a straight edge to guide it, but I'm not sure if the hardness of the alloy might be too much, or saw RPM too high. Any thoughts on this??? (and yes, I know... make sure there are no fuel vapors before I proceed!) z1r 1 Posts: 2783 (6/2/05 13:50) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You'll never get a clean edge with an OA torch. It'll just melt the AL. A plasma cutter may be better. But a simple cutoff wheel might be the easiest to procure. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 467 (6/2/05 14:39) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I got an abrasive wheel at Home Depot and installed it in my table saw. It worked pretty good for cutting steel before I got a bandsaw. Another option would be a reciprocating saw if you've got one. Part of the fun of doing something is the figuring-out how. I am Bubba (but learning) montea6b 1 Posts: 250 (6/2/05 15:48) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Boy I wish I had a plasma cutter sometimes! I used one quite a bit in a sheetmetal shop where I worked for a time. Very nice piece of gear. Any idea if equipment rental places carry them? Win300 1 Posts: 1 (6/2/05 16:55) Reply ezSupporter Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The fastest although not as fun method would be to go visit your favorite machinist. fritz The Gentleman Farmer Posts: 536 (6/2/05 17:55) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One of the first lessons I learned in welding school was to NEVER cut into a barrel, tank, etc. that had held oils or gasoline. I have seen too many people killed or maimed by doing this. A saw is the best way to cut open a tank. Aluminum, being non-ferrous, should not give off a source of ignition from the sparks. But I'm not too sure about that either. The problem lies in the fact that fuel gases remain in the pores of the metal, even after scrubbing and checking with a meter for fumes. The fumes are released from the heat of the torch. It is just not worth it, even filling the tank with water before cutting is not a guarantee the fumes will not ignite. Trust me on this one. fritz I am still determined to be cheerful and happy, in whatever situation I may be; for I have also learned from experience that the greater part of our happiness or misery depends upon our dispositions, and not upon our circumstances. Martha Washington US wife of George Washington 1759 (1732 - 1802) tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 314 (6/2/05 18:47) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Monte I am a aluminum fabricator so heres what you do get a cheap carbide tipped circular saw blade and install normal way like for wood cut it with it and have someone spray wd-40 on blade as you cut and it will be fairly smooth and will be as straight as you cut. Wear a long sleeved shirt shavings are a bit hot and have hearing protection its loud. Rod I have cut lots of tanks that way. Went to a metal supplier to get some pipe they couldn't cut it so i took a regular saw and cut it there they were so suprised didn't belive i could do it. z1r 1 Posts: 2782 (6/2/05 19:40) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think Rod has the best idea especially in light of Fritz's all too true warnings. montea6b 1 Posts: 251 (6/2/05 20:31) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for all the pointers. I think I may give it a try with the carbide tipped blade. If I don't post for a while and my next message is very short... it'll be because I'm typing with a pencil in my teeth. tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 316 (6/2/05 20:41) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dude you will be suprised it cuts very easy just use lots of wd 40 spray every 10 seconds or so Rod mod70 1 Posts: 163 (6/2/05 20:51) Reply ezSupporter Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rod You said you have cut up lots of tanks. Were they gas tanks? Just wondered if friction heat could ignite gas fumes? tanglewood16137 1 Posts: 317 (6/2/05 20:53) Reply Re: Cutting aluminum tank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- yes most were gass tanks a few were diesel but sawing is pretty inert just to be safe wash it good with some dawn. and leave it wet just cut it not a big deal. Rod montea6b 1 Posts: 254 (6/2/05 22:28) Reply Pre-burn? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now at first this idea this might sound like idiocy, but bear with me and read the background first... Growing up we burned a fair amount of wood for heat in the winter time. We had a few chimney fires early on, so my dad became pretty religious about cleaning out the chimney. It was a sheet metal stovepipe, and the way we cleaned it was to take the sections apart, prop them upright on bricks, wad up some newspaper in the bottom and light them off. You know the "snakes" that you used to light off as kids on the 4th of July? That was the same basic result. The black tarry deposits would expand onto a light styrofoamlike soot which would almost clog the stovepipe. We'd scrape this out and repeat the procedure until there wasn't anything left. That was the idea I hatched after reading Fritz's warning. If there is any residual fuel remaining in the metal that would vaporize under heat and subsequently ignite, perhaps it would be better to burn it out beforehand in a controlled manner. What better way to get rid of it? Thoughts? P.S. Anybody here ever hear of the "Darwin Awards"? I hope I don't end up on their website! MorgansBoss 1 Posts: 897 (6/3/05 17:32) Reply Re: Pre-burn? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THANK YOU FRITZ!!! Whew, I don't get by much anymore but when I pulled this post up I wondered if poor ole Monty was still with us. Please don't anybody ever put a flame to a fuel tank. No matter how many times you or someone else has gotten away with it. BTW - isn't aluminum a poor choice for hot bluing? The only tanks I've ever saw anyone use were black iron. Maybe it'd be OK for the degrease tank. Maybe I'm wrong. Rustybore 1 Posts: 76 (6/4/05 16:21) Reply Re: Pre-burn? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I was going to ask the same question. The only hot blueing tanks I have seen were either stainless steel or black iron. Would there be a chemical reaction with the aluminum? Kevin in Or.

Loumaus 1 Posts: 2 (6/4/05 0:16) Reply 240 weatherby -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. has anyone reamed a .243 out to a 240 weatherby ? 2. are ankara turks reworked german 98s ? z1r 1 Posts: 2789 (6/4/05 0:52) Reply Re: 240 weatherby -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 240 Wby won't work as it is smaller in diameter at the base than the .243. 6mm-06 AI is likely your best bet or the .243 AI. All turks not marked K.Kale are marked ankara. They can be either 1893's, 1903's, or G98's reworked, and the occassional Kar98a. If it is a standard length 98 not marked K.Kale then it is a reworked G98, or, very rarely simply a G98.

SB48 1 Posts: 3 (6/1/05 4:27) Reply Fake #5 jungle carbine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am new to this board. I have a fake Enfield Jungle carbine and was considering converting it to 45/70. Anyone here done one of these conversions? If so, does the magazine feed the 45/70's OK? Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Edited by: SB48 at: 6/1/05 4:29 oldmil 1 Posts: 52 (6/1/05 7:53) Reply Re: Fake #5 jungle carbine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It could be done with a No. 4 or 5 as far as rebarrelling and modifying the extractor (judicious filing), but the magazine might be a problem. Navy Arms builds theirs on No 1 actions and their magazines are (apparently) modified No 1's which are not interchangable with No 4's, which means you couldn't just order a mag from them. You could always get a spare mag or two and--carefully and slowly, checking feeding often with dummy rounds--bend the lips until it feeds. The follower might need work, too, as the wider .45-70 case might need to be single-stack. It sounds like a cool conversion but remember: Murphy is always lurking in the details.