Clark

1) I measured the hieghth of a steel #45 Weaver mount as .400". That is wrong. It is .390", if I do no let the flat part of the calipers touch the inside radius. That explains why my scopes have been off. The rear mount needs .023" removed, not .033" 2) The Wheeler drill and tap fixture needs to be modified for the 1903 Turk, and one of the bolts that hold the fixture need to be modified too. That front bolt cannot be tight as the cleance cut in just in front. Only the rear bolt can be tight. If I don't write this stuff down, I forget it.[attachmentid=20]

I went into a welding store and bought somone an Oxy acetalene set up so we could bend Turk bolts. I loaned the money and wrote down a loan agreement. Here is part of that agreement:

Scroll down the page to the maple M96 pics: http://home.pipeline.com/~shootzg/custom/m1909n.htm

257 Roberts 45,000 cup 54,000 psi 257 Roberts +P 50,000 cup proof pressure 1.3 to 1.4

I have a 9.5 pound Ruger #1 in 7mm mag with hard rubber butt that really kicks. I have an 8.5 pound VZ24 in 300 Win mag with Limbsaver butt pad that is a pussy cat. Nice butts give an improved sensation.

I am looking at a Win 70 mag barrel with .939" minor thread diameter and a Turk barrel .886" If the mag chamber is .513", then the difference between the Win 70 and the Turk would be .213" thick barrel wall vs .1865" At 86,400 psi proof load for the 300WM, if the case head separated and let all the pressure the chamber walls, but did not leak gas, the chamber could see stress in the barrel steel using the thin wall formula: S = Pressure * Inside Diameter /[ 2 * wall thickness] S = 86.4 kpsi * .513" / [2* .213" ] = 104 ksi [Win 70] S = 86.4 kpsi * .513" / [2* .1865" ] = 119 ksi [Turk] How would one know that the barrel went to yeild? The threads would fit better. It does not scare me. If I can get the Turk to feed, I will make a number of them. I don't think my threads COULD fit any better:)

I put one on a VZ24 one year ago, have not shot it yet. I put one on a Tokarev pistol, and it shoots accurately, but is a pain to feed [i think the barrel is too heavy] http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=365203 http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=784771 http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=399367 http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=379341 http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=1117627

I can't fit the bolt body in the 4 jaw unless I hack saw off the bolt handle. Then bolt forging is out and welding is a must. Also I Dremel tool faked the flare at the bottom of the face. Next time I want to mill it or grind it on the lathe so it is a little nicer than a Tokarev safety [made by slaves with grinders].

To get the 91/30 to 45/70 single shot, I had to grind a special tool to open the bolt face. I have shot that gun. The $15 like new Win 94 barrel from gunparts took some real math to make a bushing the would make headspace AND get the sight dovetails to line up without using a reamer. And then there is the milling the extractor relief. my next to the Russian's cut That gun is a single shot, but I have not shot it yet. I had no hopes of getting the wrong rimmed case to feed. The Finns put a dimple in the magazine to try to get the 7.62x53R to feed, and it is the right cartridge! So far I have a VZ24 that feeds 300 Win Mag, and that was hard enough.

Wow! I have bought 19 barrels off Ebay for putting on Turks and VZ24s in the past couple months. Only one or two of the acutions I won approach being as good a deal as that Numerich barrel looks to be.

At gunshows and pawn shops you will find sporterized No4s. If there are two: 1) with magzine $75 2) without magazine $35 Finding the magazine will be $35 in time, money, and trouble. Buy the one with the magazine. Springfield sporters had sporterized No 4s when they went out of biz. The are in biz again now, but Century got the rifles. I have not seen the sproterized ones show up on the Century site.

I use a jig for Mausers: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=603260 I have used the mill, but it takes too much thinking and room for mistakes. I use a drill press set on the lowest speed. I use cutting coolant mixed with water in a spray bottle to keep the drill from getting dull and will not make rust: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=5...&PARTPG=INLMK32 I use 6-48 fillister head screws that I get from Brownell's. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...%26+8-40+SCREWS I buy the long fillister had 6-48 screws. I put a nut on them I made with the 6-48 tap, grind to length, and then true the threads by removing the nut. I tap a hole like the shop teacher taught us in 1965, 1/4 turn in, 1/8" turn out, to break the chip, 1/4 turn in, etc. I use Tap Magic cutting fluid on the tap: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=5...1&PARTPG=INLMK3 I used to grind the rear hump off, but now I contour the Weaver base, and sometimes a little off the welded or forged bolt handle where it hits the mount. I use Weaver #45 and #46 for 98 Mauser, like 1903 Turks and 1938 Turks There are Aluminum mounts: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0002948045 http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0002948046 The steel mounts are lower, heavier, and more expensive: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0002948226 http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0002948227 I do not do scope ring lapping, but I do scope ring alignment by glass bedding the mounts to the receiver, so rings can move from rifle to rifle with the scope and the rings are not married to a rifle by lapping. This is my own process and I do not have any converts at this time, but by reading this, you might join the cult:) 1) I set the rifle up in a benchrest and bore sight on a target with the scope mounted. 2) I verify that the scope is in the middle of the vertical adjustment and horizontal adjustment and the cross hairs are on target. Typically scopes have 2.5 turns up and down before the cross hairs stop moving and 2.5 turns left and right. 1.25 adjustment turns is then in the middle of the adjustment range. 3) If the scope is not centered, I use slender pieces of masking tape on the receiver under the mount to shim the edge of the mount up where needed. If the cross hairs are off 3 feet at 100 yards [~36moa], and the mounts are 6" apart, then twelve layers of .005" masking tape will fix that. This tape also acts as a dam for the bedding. I put the mounted mounts on a flat surface and verify the side edges of the two mounts are collinear and the top surfaces of the two mounts are co-planar. 4) Once the mounts are made in line and parallel with the bore, I put Devcon Steel putty and catalyst between the mount and receiver. 5) I tighten the scope rings to the scope and the scope rings to the mounts, but not the mounts to the receiver those screws are left loose. 6) When the fiber glass sets up, the mount to receiver screws are tightened. 7) The really hard part about this is that the scope rings on the scope are the fixture and must be in the right place: a) The scope rings must be the right distance apart per the drilled and tapped holes in the receiver The scope rings must be in the same plane. Some ring designs are not going to cooperate with this step. Pushing their flat bottoms down on a flat surface may work. 8) When the fiber glass is half set up, clean the edges of fiber glass with a Q tip with alcohol or vinegar. 9) Because of variations in Mausers and mounts, some will need shims under the front mount and some will need it under the rear. Some don't need any shimming for height but still need glass bedding, as it is possible to screw on a mount pointed in all different directions because of the screw to mount hole clearance, and the drilled holes are never exactly parallel with the bore of the barrel. One piece mounts like Farrell's are always collinear with themselves, but need shimming and glassing for a good mount and to get the scope in the middle of its range. These are very fussy about how the jig is set up so that the holes line up. http://www.kenfarrell.com/MAU-98-B-0.html

THis book has the saami specs with tolerances on chambers and cartridges. It is not in the load books, as saami wants a bunch of money for the info. http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=book+h...=ff&oi=froogler

A Swede with some eye relief:

I put colt blue on barrels, using the lathe. I spin them and rub the Di-Chem cold blue on. I degrease them I spin them and rub Oxpho cold blue on. I conver with oil and wait overnight. The Dicropan is darker, the Oxpho Blue is more durable. Each steel seems to be different, but some steel loves to get a Dicropan and then Oxpho later applied with a Scotch Brite pad. This gets the dark in the crevices and the durable on the peaks of the micro scratches. With each steel, I try some combinations until I start getting good results with the cold blue process. Sometimes great results, sometimes kinda ugly.

I got 93 Spanish Mausers for 2/$15 last year at a gunshow. My brother got a sporterized 1895 Chilean with bad stock for $25. I put the one of the Spanish stocks on the Chilean and made a Manliker out of it. The 93 Spanish stock fits the 1895 Chilean fairly well. THe Chilean is a great action, but the 93 Spanish don't look like they are worth my time.

Those are J Belk pictures from a while back. He is the king of Mauser sporterizing. He dropped out of sight a few years back. http://forums.accuratereloading.com/groupe...610044#50610044

I had a neighbor who used to work at CCI and had a Win 1912 collection and some rifles. He was on his second marridge, in a trailer on 5 acres. They were SUPPOSED to build a big house, he was a big guy, an architect, and a big talker, but he lied to her about how much money he had. She paid for the mobile home. I was 1,000 feet away at my house, and I could hear her yelling. "LOOSER!!" They got divorced. The place is sold and someone built a big house. The place is sold again to someone with horses. They cleared land, found a rusted out Rem700 with scope, and put it on the barn wall. Being a historian [busybody], I had to tell them the likely reason that rifle was there. The woman threw the man's rifle in the woods.

Get the whole set of 11 heat treated impact sockets 1/2" drive for $8.14. That will include the 7/8" you want: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=801-0115

I have shot a 10 pound Whelen, and the recoil is ok, but the power and trajectory are gone at 400 yards. I have shot a 7mm mag, the recoil is mild, the gun can be light, but it never has enough power. Playing with Quickload, calculating rifle weight, calculating recoil, looking at power and trajectory at distance, the caliber that seems optimum for elk is 8mm/338, 8mm/300WM, or a downloaded 8mm mag. This assumes a stationary target out to 400 yards, as the leading becomes ridiculas at that distance. The 300 win mag is too small and the 338 too big, but they are both close enough to work at 350 yards.

My 8mm Turkish Mausers push 220 gr at 2600 fps My 300 Win Mag pushes 180 gr at 3000 fps My 91/30 pushes 180 gr at 2875 fps My 30-06 pushes 150 gr at 3167 fps My 308 pushes 150 gr at 3050 fps I elk hunt with the sporterized 91/30 Russian. The other guys in camp with $1000 ultras make fun of my rifle, but I don't feel any shame. I am hunting, not wearing jewlry.

Randy Ketchum, a REAL gunsmith, told me his barrel vice uses a hydraulic jack and is attached to a very heavy bench. I now understand the HEAVY bench part.

picture of my barrel vice and some Alluminum collets made from 1.5" round stock with a boring bar and hack saw

There is this: http://personal.stevens.edu/~gliberat/carcano/emary.html But the guy you really want is Andrew Pridham. He first wrote me two months ago about Carcano experiments. He is a kindred engineer who is also motivated to test gun culture myths, in this case, about Carcanos. He posted quite allot about Carcano experiments on http://www.canadiangunnutz.com. You have to join it to read it. Andrew I believe has also posted on this forum, and is known for his 8mm web site: http://www.8x63swedish.pridham.ca/ He was going hunting, I don't know if he is back yet. I think he is also working on another 8mm wildcat: http://forums.accuratereloading.com/groupe...043/m/420103682

I can't hunt or shoot every day, but I can work on sporterizing every day. What else am I going to do with my life? Buy factory rifles and watch TV?