Clark

Page 55 of Walsh shows how to TIG weld up a Mauser bolt face to get rid of corrosive primer leakage pits.

My guess is that if you can weld up the pits, you can weld up the rim.

When welding on the bolt, use welder's paste, a heat sind, and/or a wet towel to keep the rest of the bolt cool. As soon as you are done welding, dunk the part of the bolt that is supposed to be cool in the water, leaving the hot part out.

I got a sporterized VZ24 in 30-06 with sporter sights, stock, recoil pad, safety, bent bolt, drilled and tapped for $120.

The magazine well is blind, and the Walnut looks nice.

There was a problem with the wrong Weaver mounts, but I stock #A45 and #46 mounts.

Today I made a dummy 30-06 round and chambered it.

The chamber was nice and tight, but the magazine was WAY too short:(

Someone must not have realized that a 3.340" magazine length takes some work.

for those of you stuck on the outlying planets, the trick is to bang the rock together.

For those wanting a magnum bolt face, the trick is to cut off the bolt handle. put the body in the lathe, and attack with carbide bits.

Then open up the bottom so there is only 180 degrees of magnum bolt face circle.

Then weld on an new handle.

I just got the thing to feed at 4:00 a.m. this morning:(

Thanks Steve,

I paid for Keunhausen's book in 1999, but I can't seem to read it, and it now sits at my brother's house.

I will start filing.

Clark

They may be .050" short in some length, but if also roughed in in some smaller diameter, gently tapered brass will not go in very far at all.

I did the bolt face, the extractor, and the mag well.

I can't see how to do the feed ramp and the mag lips.

Any hints?

TIA

Clark

You can't see entry holes for all of them but there were 15 shots fired.

3731[/snapback]

That is an even NICER 15 shot group, then:)

Nice group of 10 shots.

I shot my brother's 35 Whelen with some book loads I loaded.

The big heavy 1909 pushed me back with recoil, but did not hurt.

I had seen pictures for years, but shooting the 35W really made me want one.

If I can spin a part in the lathe, then sandpaper or Scotchbrite is the way I like to go.

Yesterday I asked my brother to TIG weld a bolt handle that I just made and sanded. He was not going to work on anything that had my crappy workmanship. He put the handle in HIS lathe and proceeded to file and sand it all over again. He got down to 2000 grit paper that he found in Boeing Surplus. The finish was mirror like. Then he sandblasted the weld area, and that part looks rough.

Brownells sells a blank extractor that can be cut to fit the ,223:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...ail.aspx?p=9490

I have one of these and a custom .223 reamer [.250" neck and .030" shorter neck] on order from Manson. I intend to convert a 1903 Turk to .223.

The book, "Introduction to Gunsmiithing" by Macfarland, shows siflver soldering of a small plate on the Mauser extractor for conversion to the .222.

Randy Ketchum of Lynwood Guns has a Turk in his store that he converted to .223, but welding an AR15 magazine to the mag bottom. I am not going to do that, as I will use my .223 single shot.

I have had thought like that, but I have not done anything.

Thanks for posting that.

I have Corelight, Choate, Advanced Technology, and Ramline, but no Hogue yet.

My opinion of injection moulded stocks is that the original surplus stock is easier to bed, lighter, stiffer, but uglier.

If one has BIG BUCKS, then they can get a stock that is better than the surplus stock:

Walnut

Laminiated wood

laid up fiberglass, carbon fiber ect.

The big problem with the injection moulded stocks is that they are flimsy and inaccurate, or heavy, and always a pain to get the glass to stick.

For $200, HIGH TECH SPECIALTIES makes a nice product.

I would rather have one of those than 4 more injection moulded stocks.

http://www.bansnersrifle.com/hightech/stock_list.html

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...TIC+RIFLE+STOCK

Lothar Walther sells long chambered barrels in each caliber, so one need not buy a reamer.

Forster sells die sets for both, so one could do either.

The advantage with 6.5x55 is that I am already feeding M94, M96, and M38 rifles.

The advantage with 6.5x57 is that the cheap brass is all .470" at the base.

I have never reamed a smaller diameter rilfe chamber out to a bigger one, but will the pilot reach?

If the 325 pilot does not reach, the reamer could get off center.

Did you walk in at 9:00 a.m. and see them on a table?

Are you a table holder and found them at 8:00 a.m.?

Or did you find them walking in?

And I skipped that show in Monroe and went to Puyallup Saturday at 8:00 a.m.

I had $525 in my pocket and could not find a thiing I wanted.

A friend of mine snuck in at 7:00 a.m. and got hundreds of bullets for pennies on the dollar.

I have not done this with heavy recoil cartridges, but it does help accuracy, I take out the cross bolt and fill the voild wit glass.

It seems to me that the reduced to full loading of the 8x57 Mauser is all I need in recoil and noise.

It never leaves ME wanting any more.

http://www.realguns.com/loads/8x57mmjs.htm

If I can get 2700 fps with a 200 gr bullet, what more will the 325WSM do?

http://www.westernhunter.com/Pages/Vol06Issue07/325wsm.html

I guess it will do 2950 fps.

I guess some want that extra 250 fps.

It is like standing 100 yards closer.

The Macfarland gunsmithing book page 110 through 137 is step by step sporterizing the 1917 and pattern 14 Enfield.

Swamp,

Try this, put some tape over the reciever and under the rear of the trigger spring/sear.

Here is a picture [sorry to those tired of this picture]:

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=926374

I have glassed the ATI to look like the first picture, but in the second, it looks like the trigger gaurd is made of glass or covered with glass.

Does the action still come out of the stock?

TIA

I just got stuck looking at that picture for 10 minutes.

I don't know WHAT to think!

Is there a reason for blueing the receiver and barrell before putting them together.

riceone

No, but most of the barrels I take off have bluing.

I can usually get all of the Alluminum from the bushing off the bluing on the barrel with Alcohol and a Q tip.

I use Alcohol and a Kleenex before I put the barrel in the barrel vice bushing, to get the oil, grease, and dirt off, so the bushing can get traction. It is much easier to get the Alluminum off if there was no slipping.

I put blue Diechem on the bolt when it interferes after forging or welding.

Where ever the blue wears off, that is where the bolt got bigger.

I want a big long handle so my ham fist does not hit the scope, which I need, because of my Mr. Magoo eyes.