Ron J

Ahhhh. To be 35 again. Man, that was a while ago! Enjoy it, my friend and your B-day.

I think you're right about the tires. I seem to recall him telling me he had changed the tires to a brand that Porsche uses. You'll be replacing yours soon enough, at least the back two!! LOL.

That Iwo Jima emblem is wrong in my opinion, but I don't envy those that have to go through life gay either. I get po'd to no end about our government alot, but I won't burn a flag to get my point across. Ya gotta make your own fences I suppose.

Tony, that sounds outstanding. Sounds like your wife enjoys it, too! I have a friend with one almost identical. Same goodies including the re-tune through a program he did with his laptop (and several hundred dollars-LOL). He kept the gears higher and this thing rolls along at around 145 with some pedal left. Says he needs a speedometer that goes higher! You squeeze 10 more horses outta that thing and you'll need a parachute to stop it. You should do a video of a launch - I'll bet that thing damn near wants to pull the wheels!

Obviously this guy appreciates the job you've done teaching his kid(s). Very cool, congrats on the gift and a job well done.

Really! I'm in charge of inspection here and don't make that. What the heck are you inspecting, nitro-glycerin? Glad to here it - that's for sure. We're so slow here, just hearing a machine run is a good feeling.

Congrats T5. A lathe is a huge thing to have for all kinds of stuff. You're pretty aware of that already. Another gun nut helps with the economy.

Very nice, as usual Don. I've never seen a bolt sleeve like that. Did you mill that from std issue? Also, glad to see you're back in your groove. That really was pretty quick considering what you've gone through.

I would assume her logic will be much the same as the justice she is replacing. Sad, but expected given the socialist we have running everything now.

Here's the barrel I'll be using on the project. It originally looked like the one on the bottom until I removed the steps. Original weight was 2 5/8 lbs, now a svelt 2 1/4 lbs. Still 23.6" overall. Next step will be to make a receiver sight that fits the two holes in the rear bridge. I keep trying to buy one but they always end up selling for more than I can/want to spend.

 

 

I'll be adding the front sight ramp and barrel mounted swivel later.

 

As for checkering, it ain't easy. Checkering in a round pattern on the knob isn't hard but in the teardrop it is more difficult.

I understand checkering the knobs that have raised panels. Not that it would be easy, just understandable. But how to create an edge with a flat checkering file is beyond me. Especially since you can't see what you're doing underneath it.

Always amazes me.

+1 to what everyone else said. Being informed is key. Bennies keep getting eroded year after year and then someone who actually does deserve and need it, gets geeked. Hang tough and good luck.

Ron

Happy B'day Mike. And the rest of you quit calling him old timer. Some of us got decades on him!!!!!!

Not bad looking, really. It appears to be for gripping without checkering. It reminds me of something I've seen and can't pull out of my dusty brain. Also, that is some length of pull. That guys arms must be down to his knees.

The absolute best inletting I ever saw was by a guy who came here from Hungary when Germany disarmed them back in the day. He scorned "glass bedding" as a mistake repair. Every spot was done with prussian blue and it looked "bedded" when done. His tools? All hand made. Neet stuff, RR. May try it sometime.

Thanks fellas.

So much to know, so little time!!

I was thinking it helped the back edge of the case find it's way into the boltface, but what you said makes sense too.

8, some odds and ends, but only my opinion. Sanding: 80 grit is pretty rough - only you can decide if you need it. It won't hurt, but each finer grit should remove the scratches from the previous. After 320 look closely for scratches. 400 and 600 "feel" smooth, but most wood is too soft to benefit from it. Again, you'll know. If it's beneficial to the stock then by all means do it.

Raising the grain is done to prevent future issues. It's done by wetting the stock with water then drying with something like a hair dryer or holding carefully over a stove burner. Don't soak it - wipe it with a wet rag. The drying will lift tiny wood fibers that got pushed into the wood while sanding. Little whiskers will appear on the surface. Lightly sand them off with the next finer grit. That cuts them off and pushes in smaller ones. Repeat as many times as you wish using finer paper each step. You can start whiskering at the 220 or 320 step. This is somewhat tedious and I must admit I sometimes skip doing it. The purpose is that sometimes even after a stock finish is cured, rain or heavy moisture in the air will lift these little buggers and after your back in the house, your stock feels like it needs a shave. I've seen it happen to stocks. It has not happened to any of mine, but my rifles pretty much live at the range due to Ohio hunting regs. I don't know if it would happen to a poly finish once cured. It can happen to rubbed in Linseed oil type finishes. They are relatively soft.

After all sanding is finished remove all dust. Compressed air is good if available. Then a wipe with solvent.

I never use stain so I know little about it. I would assume a good wipe with a clean dry rag after it's dry would be all that's needed. Wait until the stain is completely dry before any finish.

Good luck - sounds like it's gonna be nice.

I'm going to make a little clearance between the top of the magazine box and the recvr on this Higgins. When I do this the back wall that goes up into the recvr will hit the bolt. I'll shorten it also, but won't the radius cut towards the top need to be redone? Do I reshape so that it's the same size as now?

I'm assuming this is there for CRF.

Not to hijack here, but I have a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H that beats me to death. I can do maybe 10-12 handloads and I'm done. Enough pain that you can't pull the thing tight to your shoulder when you shoot it. I haven't tried it since I put a 1" decelerator on it, but I didn't think about pitch at all. I just cut a little off parallel to the existing surface. I gotta check this. It also will jump right out of the rest if you don't hold down the forend. It's better standing than on a bench, but only a little!!!

This thread is going to one that I end up printing and filing away. Lots of good stuff coming up here.

Welcome to the board. You're in a great place to learn about and get excellent how-to's on Mausers. Other milsurps as well. They will answer any question, gladly and it's always from those that have done it. Can you post a pic of the stock? Trying to imagine the black spot deal. AZ is right. Stuff like cosmoline and other heavy oils are slow to move outward and can be quite deep. Washing with super fast evaporating solvents like Acetone is over too quickly. I'm working on an oil soaked / damaged sporter stock and going to try what one member told me. Wrap with a rag thats wet with body shop prep solvent like Prepsol. It's kinda oily itself, but dries. Wrap plastic over the rag. This slows evaporation while giving the oil a place to soak into, like AZ's trunk method. If and when it's dry, there's plenty of wood on a milsurp stock to sand smooth. I would consider keeping the steel wool for the steel and try scotchbrite pads on the wood when your smoothing and finishing. It's been kinder to me on wood and cleaner than steel wool, although many use it. The light gray SB is equal to 0000 steel wool, FYI.

Walnut

I had heard somewhere that X amount of states were considering some type of ammo serialization. This would basically end reloading and anything store bought would be registered. I figured that if that does happen, already owned stuff would be grandfathered, so everyone was buying all they could. This current crew is capable of trying anything.

Paranoid also.

Aw c'mon. Both you guys are dying to pick that thing up and put it out of everyones misery. It's a diamond in the rough.

Brad's stock is fine example of things when they're right. I'm trying to learn that. I look at stocks closely and try to get a feel for why some look so much better to me than others. It's the whole rifle really - it all has to flow together. Reminds me of what a Supreme Court Justice said about porn once. "I can't define it, but I'd know it if I saw it."

Brad, thanks. I kinda guessed that range, but had no real feel for it. Back 30+ yrs ago or so I bought one for my brother. They were supposed to be the Cadillac at that time. I picked out a single set style and paid around 100 for it. Then! It's a pc of work, but the set function is way too light for anything but a match rifle.

Guys, what do you think a Canjar trigger for a Mark X Interarms Mauser is worth? It's a standard trigger - not a set trigger. It has adjustments though. I have a friend that may sell it.

Ron