Ron J

That is nice, Mike. Which front sight is that? NEGC has a few. If you don't mind checking, how wide is the ramp? I don't like the real narrow ones.

No reason why it shouldn't. Good deal.

You're exactly right. Quenching (cooling rapidly - normally done in some type of liquid) is what hardens carbon / alloy steel. Tempering (heating and cooling slowly) is what softens or anneals it. I've often wondered about why the opposite works with brass. I know that certain stainless steels work in reverse for hardening also.

Man you did good. I saw my first at a gun show 2 months ago. The bolt was not a G33/40 bolt and the price was over twice what you paid. Thats gonna be cool. Z posted some pics of a Burgess 33/40 some time back in a post I started about small rings. It was gorgeous.

Bob, I've tried both and there are ups and downs to both. I re-checkered a Ruger #1 after stripping, but before finishing. It came out great. The 1st step of the finish was oil that had alkanet root in it so it popped the grain in the checkering well and the red it brings was even. I kept taking the oil out with a little brush so there was no build-up. Also the factory checkering had high and low planes so I sanded the checkering in places and blended into the stock. I think fixing checkering is easier before finishing. Fresh checkering after finishing I believe gives better lines to see. The 1st level of depth isn't much into the wood so seeing is easy and so is following what you have done. If you fill the grain with a silica type pore filler it eats checkering tools pretty fast. I'm no expert having done little and screwed up a bunch of it, but that's what I've learned so far. I don't stain - dye is much nicer to work with. You will as you say take the color out when you checker later. Then you color some oil and brush it in. Most finishes after curing harden the wood somewhat and make cleaner diamonds I believe.

Looks cool. And yet another good job making a milsurp stock look great.

Tinker, the site to see about the oil I was talking about is: mpi.websitewizard dot com. Or google Van's bluing. It's great oil, but will most likely be alot more expensive than tranny fluid or some of the other perfectly good ideas. Ron

That is unbelievable. Such disaster because of a few degrees swing at the wrong time.

Just in case anyone decides to use these types of numbers for pin numbers and such, make sure you go very different if you have to change. You could have a brain fart in the middle of a transaction and keep using the wrong number - over and over. And also if you punch in the wrong # a few times an ATM will eat your card and you'll have to call someone and look stupid. At least thats what I've heard.

You're a dog AZ. Me thinking about going home the other night. 2wd don't cut it on these days. 12" < 24 hrs. Nothing compared to Kenny though. Back to the question. I use an oil called supr-fine. Came in a kit with cold blue, cleaner and a stock finish. I use it for my cast iron surface plate which stays in my basement. We have pretty large humidity swings and the open pore iron never rusts. It's not covered or bagged. The oil is red, smells like some kind of fruit and is fairly thin. It's in the kit to neutralize the acid in the cold blue, but I use motor oil. I'll post the website where it is available. I got the kit at a local gunshow. The cold blue is awesome also.

Well I picked it up. It was 225 not 200, but I grabbed it anyway. The pitting seems minor. No idea what caliber it is - no "30" marking. It chambers a sized 30-06 shell, but the extractor doesn't grab it good enough to pull it out completely. A chamber cast will tell me something.

Thanks guys. If everything goes as planned, I'll have pics later.

I think this one said Model 1935. Is that as good as a 1909? Yes, Z, it looks like the top one. The hump is flat on top. No pitting I can see - won't know for sure until I part with the bux and the stock is off.

I stumbled across a Mauser today that I may go back and get. It is a Peruvian Model 1935. All matching numbers. FN - Herstal Belique. It has a sporter stock thats not bad. Military barrel. Theres that notch in the back of the front ring. I don't know what caliber it is now. My readings say it's a "short rifle" and some were rechambered for 30-06. Anyone familiar with these? I think the price is right, $200.00. I'm guessing anything Belgium can't be all bad. Walnut

I'm sure others here will be able to answer your questions better than I, but I sure won't flame them. They did a nice job sporterizing in the style of the time. Nice stock, too.

Thanks for the info, Bob. Thats a post worth keeping for future ref. Ron

+6??? Man that's a 60 degree swing. It's 0 here in Cleveland and sucks. 60 degrees colder - I can't even imagine.

Those are all cool, but I gotta drool over a pastel blue high-boy with white walls. Love that stuff. Ron

Nice job, SS. That is cool.

Same from Tony and myself. I'd say have a cold one...but hell at -40 I think it's Jack D time!

I remember reading somewhere that some guys use artist paint (I think acrylic) to color Accraglass. I haven't tried it, but if it works, it would be fairly cheap and color possibilities would be endless. The stuff that comes with the kit matches no wood I've ever seen or want to. I'll bet a few different tubes and you could make any shade. The stuff would be priced good at Pat Catans.

And 30 yrs later thanking God you even woke up in that alley. Wiser is the word. Happy New Year all.

That is a great alternative to a plastic screw in type - much nicer. And between colors, inlays...etc, the possibilities are endless. Very nice work.

Wow, I suck. Maybe "everyone" shouldn't be allowed to vote!

I think it's cool. Why replace the stock? If a tip makes it the length you want, add it. Every milsurp stock I've seen had things mounted in it or big sling slots. Yours has nice shimmer in the grain. And a real "square" cross bolt - I'll bet installing one of those is tough. And it shoots like a house on fire. Learning experiences always pay off. Obviously yours are. Nice gun, Ken.