scott63

Real nice buck, and such a little cutie pie "scout" you have. Congratulations all around.

 

 

Spiris

Congrats rustvyper to your brother on a great double and congrats to you on your little "scout". My daughter loves hunting with me, I started her when she was young too. My happiest days have been with my kids in the woods.

I had one years ago that had been converted to 30/06, fired 7.7 handloads came out looking kinda funny. Took it to a gunsmith and found out about the conversion. It shot ok, but I traded it off. I would really suggest buying the dies from RCBS to handload. The 7.7 is a decent enough cartridge and easy to reload. I've killed mule deer with it and I'm gonna try for a bear on Sunday........Scott

that's a heck of a deer! congrats!

Thanks guys! I am really proud, especially since a couple grown men missed deer at the same distance. Believe me, that card got played! 8uck5snort- best of luck to you and your boy!.....Scott

I put my daughter(15 yrs) in for a Wyoming tag along with my hunting partners 13 yr old son and they were drawn this year. Alisha and I were sitting on the edge of a ravine when this small 4 point came along. She made a perfect 109 yard shot with her .250 Savage,(1909 Swede, ER Shaw barrel, B&C stock, I did the bolt and D&T) the buck dropped like a rock. This is her third buck and her biggest, so she was very happy. My friends son got a 3X4 the next day that was about the same size as this one.

In 3 days I saw 39 bucks and about an equal number of does, of the bucks only four would have been more than 24 inches wide, most were very small horned forks and 3X3. The quanity was definitely there!

Now my son and I need to fill our Ca. tags.......Scott

The EGW mount is $40 and very high quality.

 

Here I have posed it between a La Coruna commercial Mauser action and a La Coruna military action.

Do not move the mount back on the military so that the two screw holes are in the rear.

That puts the front holes into that that should not be drilled.

I think the EGW is what I've been looking for, thank you............Scott

Well I saw that one, and the only thing is it looks just like the one I got off ebay with the holes out of spec. The one i got might have been a fluke, guess I can try again, they are cheap enough.....Scott

Does anyone have a source for a one piece tactical style scope mount that isn't 100 bucks? Not a scout. Built in moa would be a plus but not a must have. I bought one off ebay a while back and the rear screw hole is not where it should be, but is close enough that I can't do anything with it on this rifle. Thanks for any help....Scott

...about my dumb luck! Went to a gun auction this weekend with 1261 items! talk about a good (but expensive) time.

400+ of the guns were from an estate collection, & he apparently was a huge WWII collector. I bought a savage 720 without inspecting it because it was an insanely good deal, ended up getting it for $188 after 17% buyer’s fee & taxes. Got it home & realized that it had US ordinance flying bomb & P proofs. Looked it up & come to find out I got myself a Savage M720 purchased for MP's & aerial gunnery practice during WWII. Most were given to municipal police departments after the war so there are few originals left. Starting asking price for a fair condition all-original? $700, could fetch as high as $1100 for a nice condition one like mine. Coulda knocked me over with a feather!

Anyway, guessing it was part of the guy's WWII collection & someone didn't do their due diligence!

 

There were tons of good deals flowing across the stage. Coulda made a lot of $ if I had around $5k to spend.

Some really stupid deals too. Saw a m48a sold as a "german WWII mauser" for $250 final bid (+17% premium & tax!)

Also saw a beauuuutiful sporterized mauser in 224 clark go for $725 & another 1895 in 257 imperial for $1000. Some nice sporterized springfield 1903's too. One in banjo wood stock that only went for $200 b/c the auctioneer didn't know what caliber it was. Had to bite my hand on that one as I had already spent a grand!

"Had to bite my hand on that one as I had already spent a grand!" What else did you get?

How tough is the swing safety to install with out a milling machine? I know its most likely do-able, but most likely tough as well isn't it? Anybody have any pics showing how they are installed? Thanks.

 

Brenden

 

Never mind..I found Don's post in the archives.

 

I had the swing safety installed but I'm not happy with how hard it is to engage, that's why the request for a pic of a cocking piece. I mistakenly said chapman, I believe it is a wisner type--pull back/push forward.....Scott

How tough is the swing safety to install with out a milling machine? I know its most likely do-able, but most likely tough as well isn't it? Anybody have any pics showing how they are installed? Thanks.

 

Brenden

 

Never mind..I found Don's post in the archives.

 

I had the swing safety installed but I'm not happy with how hard it is to engage, that's why the request for a pic of a cocking piece. I mistakenly said chapman, I believe it is a wisner type--pull back/push forward.....Scott

new guy here.....i have a Turkish M1938 8mm mauser. it is somewhat sporterized and i think it needs a new barrel. it was cut down from its original length and shoots horribly. any ideas? new/used barrel? 6.5x55? another 8mm? prefer the 8. I DUNNO WHAT TO DO. HELP!

I have one in 6.5X55 and love it. It is an absolute tack driver and will do anything the 8mm will do with decent bullets. In scandinavian countries they use it to take moose, and I have shot right through mule deer with it......Scott

I'll bite.

 

You've got a great rifle for just about any modification you'd want to do other than a long range sniper rifle.

 

Save your 91 for a hunting rifle - it's perfect for any standard Mauser cartridge you might want to chamber (I wouldn't run them too hot).

 

For a long range rifle on a Mauser action you'll need at least a standard-length (not intermediate) 1898 action. These are still plentiful and reasonably priced. This would allow you chamber -06 class fairly easily, and magnums without too much more extra work.

 

But you're interested in mags for long-range work, and will probably be better off finding a Savage or Remington 700 already in 300 mag (or maybe 7 mm). Personally, I'd go with the Savage, they come with good triggers. Being the mild sort that I am, I'd probably go with a 308 or (more likely) 30-06 for sniping, 300 mag or 7 mm mag if I was feeling like ammo availability wouldn't be an issue. You're probably thinking of some more exotic magnum, which is fine. You'll need a range finder and practice in any case. A standard commercial magnum action (still available at Wal-Mart, but for how long?) will handle about anything short of the 50 BMG, which of course would be a REAL long range sniper's rifle.

Words of wisdom, that's a fact!..............Scott

My advice is to scrap the Chapman and get a Wisner.

I did one of the Chapman safeties a couple year ago but never used it, probably for the same reasons you are having troubles with yours.

I went to the Wisner and never looked back. I've completed 15-20 of the Wisner safties for myself and friends and other than making a new hold down bolt,(for the milling fixture) they are a breeze to install.

Do you have any pics of the cocking piece after you modified it? Scott

Does anyone have a pic of a cocking piece that has been modified for use with the chapman style 2 pos safety? I'm hoping there is a way to make it smooth like a win 70, or at least half as smooth......Scott

can the electroless nickle plating kits be used to plate a mauser reciever?? or is this a bad idea? brian.

That might be considered heresy in some circles.....I wanted a Rem 700 action to match the matte stainless barrel I was having installed. To get a matte finish I used crushed glass in a sandblaster, followed by lightly sandblasting with glass beads. I was really happy with how it turned out.

You have to protect areas not to be plated, they sell a brush on liquid that is similar to rubber cement, buy the SMALLEST quantity they sell. I bought a quart (way too much) and it will last many lifetimes. It is easy to do if you read the instructions several times before plating...........Scott

anybody know where to get this done on the cheap? or does it always cost so much? I am looking to get a trigger, sear, bolt, and firing pin for a savage done, but can't justify spending the $100 on a $400 gun. Thanks!

I bought a kit off ebay, it worked really well on a few projects haven't used it in a while. It was easy to use...Scott

z1r---Could you post a pic looking at the rear of the bolt? I was wondering what you do about the groove for the rear shroud....Scott

Here's the barrel I'll be using on the project. It originally looked like the one on the bottom until I removed the steps. Original weight was 2 5/8 lbs, now a svelt 2 1/4 lbs. Still 23.6" overall. Next step will be to make a receiver sight that fits the two holes in the rear bridge. I keep trying to buy one but they always end up selling for more than I can/want to spend.

 

 

I'll be adding the front sight ramp and barrel mounted swivel later.

 

As for checkering, it ain't easy. Checkering in a round pattern on the knob isn't hard but in the teardrop it is more difficult.

The taper point on indicator rod is close to the bushing for use it prechambered barrels. The range rod is for blanks.

-Don

Thank you both for the clarification....Scott

So the range rod is supposed to be used when indicating in an unchambered barrel, and the indicator rod is for a chambered barrel. But how are the two rods different? Aren't they both diameter specific to the caliber you are indicating? Thanks in advance for clarifying.....Scott

As previously announced, here is a start on a Series on rebarreling a Turk. The Turk in question is a 1938 Ankara K Kale. It is a large-ring receiver with small-ring threads. There are some small-ring pre-threaded and chambered barrels out there, but my customer wanted one in .25-06 for this project. He bought a contoured .257 caliber blank from Adams & Bennet to use.

 

The Turks have a lip around the front of the receiver ring that was used to hold the handguard in place. I suppose we have all seen "sporterized" Turks that have not had that lip removed. Those fall into the Bubba Butt Ugly classification. It is not difficult to machine that ring off, so let's start there.

 

I had to make a new mandrell to do small ring Model 98's. It was made from a piece of 1" 12L14 round rod 14 3/8" long. The end that extends back through the receiver is .700" in diameter. The threads are .980-12, and the front end is .750". This shot shows the Turk action screwed onto the receiver facing mandrell.

 

The lathe setup for facing off the receiver is not particularly difficult. Do it between centers to keep everything square. The mandrell is driven with a lathe dog. Direction of rotation is such that you must take a light cut or you will unscrew the receiver from the mandrell.

 

You can see here that there is sufficient space around the mandrell to face off the front ring. After cutting the ring square, I take a 45 degree chamfer cut on the outer circumference.

 

The customer wants to use two-piece Leupold FN mounts for this project. They require removing the charging hump. This can be done entirely with files, but I set this one up in the mill.

 

The actual milling process is straight forward. I am using a 1" HSS endmill.

 

The final finish work is still done with files in the vise. A receiver holding fixture is handy for this step.

 

 

I use a D&T jig to keep holes straight. This one is from Midway.

 

This shots shows the Leupold FN bases fitted to the receiver.

 

That finishes the receiver work for now. Next we will attack the new barrel.

 

Clemson

Clemson, I was wondering why you use the lathe dog, doesn't the three jaw hold the mandrel tight enough? I am new to this and was wondering because I have done the same thing minus the dog with no problems....yet. Thanks for posting this tutorial, pictures are worth a thousand words...Scott

Jerry

Yes, I did the bolt handle, sort of.

I got it all set up in a jig, then had it tig welded on by a professional welder, then I shaped and finished it.

Kenny

I would like to have a stock semi-inletted from wood that I have. Does anyone know of any stock makers that could do a semi-inlet in the shape of a Win Mod 70 Featherweight, but for a 95 mauser? Thanks..............Scott

Here's a 7X57 I put together last winter.

I have added a Weaver K-4 since these photos were taken.

Kenak2, that is very nice work. Here is a couple pics of the bolt, if it wasn't for the stepped barrel I'd just cut it down, but I'd rather go with a real lightweight barrel.

Anybody use a Chilean Mauser to sporterize into a hunting rifle? Any pics? I picked up a badly sportered all number matching rifle by DWM, has the original barrel but the bolt handle was butchered and the stock is junk. I'm thinking a .250 Savage with a nice featherweight barrel since I already have dies and brass for this caliber, otherwise it would be a 7X57 with a sporter barrel. Any thoughts?......................Scott

It is definitely smoother with collets, not too noticeable with my 3 jaw and most noticeable with my 4 jaw. So I'm trying to make the motor as smooth as possible before I try to balance the 4 jaw chuck, and since I haven't another lathe of this vintage to look at, I don't know if there is anything missing from the motor mounting assembly. To say the owners manual is brief would be a vast understatement, and it reads like a fortune cookie!

For those of you with belt driven lathes, what brand of belts do you use? It has been suggested elswhere to try changing the belts.......Scott

Does it vibrate with the chuck off? Do you have a spider? If so, have you removed it? These lathes are often equipped with unbalanced chucks and spiders. I do not know what RPM you are getting vibration at, but high speeds are the realm of collets. LL

It is definitely smoother with collets, not too noticeable with my 3 jaw and most noticeable with my 4 jaw. So I'm trying to make the motor as smooth as possible before I try to balance the 4 jaw chuck, and since I haven't another lathe of this vintage to look at, I don't know if there is anything missing from the motor mounting assembly. To say the owners manual is brief would be a vast understatement, and it reads like a fortune cookie!