BobVZ

littlecanoe, My pet load is 56.0 grains of IMR 4350 behind a Hornady 165 grain spire point #3040. Yours must have the feed rail, mag box and receiver ring mods for the .30-06 so I'd vote to keep it in that family. If you change it back to 7x57 there may be feed issues. z1r, Thanks for the tip. I was planning to Duracoat it this spring, so while I've got it torn down I'll check the bedding. What aspect of the bedding tipped you off that there might be a problem? When I bed rifles, I fix the barrel in a vise and bolt the stock from underneath just snug to let the bedding set, that way I don't have the weight of the barrel affecting the front lug area. Is this a right way or could I do it differently? Thanks, Bob

littlecanoe, I did improve the accuracy from 2.5 in groups to 1.25 in groups. Some improvement came from bedding the action and chamber area then free-floating the rest. That cut groups to about 2 in, but the last bit of improvement came from using neck-sized only re-loads. After inspecting fired brass I was seeing a good deal of case expansion. It measured out to be about .480. I figured when the Colombians re-bored and chambered these originally 7x57 barrels, since they didn't set the barrel back, they had to use an oversized reamer to clean up the chamber. The problem I have is the first two shots will go in .5 in but subsequent shots start to walk. Thats probably due to the thin barrel profile. However, I remember the remarks of the late gun writer Finn Aagard who wrote(paraphrase) that he didn't care so much how well a rifle grouped, but where it put the first shot. If it went where he aimed it he treasured that rifle. That is what I have. I can count on that first shot from a cold clean barrel to go exactly where I aim it. I guess thats all that counts for a hunting rifle.

littlecanoe, When I bought mine 14 years ago from Springfield Sporters they were advertised as FN made barrels for the 1922 Brazilian carbine. I also wanted to chamber it in .280 but my 'smith declined because he didn't think there was enough chamber and the 1:8 twist rate would create too much resistance/pressure to be safe. I sent a stepped .30-06 barrel from a Colombian mauser to a guy in Georgia who used a barrel spinner and a belt sander to free-hand it. It looked good but was never as accurate though. I've read the Germans designed those steps in to provide certain harmonics - much like metal golf club shafts. I believe they also functioned to prevent the barrel from binding in the stock from heating. Mannlicher stocks do a great job of hiding the steps. Also, if you install a barrel band swivel at the second step the appearance can be much improved. BTW, a 1909 Argy carbine front sight base turned upside down fits the barrel perfect at that spot and can be re-shaped to make a nice swivel base.

It seems like I read a thread on another forum where a guy dismounted several Yugo barrels and measured where the threads started in relation to where the extractor cut was. He noticed they were all nearly identical. He also inspected the receiver threads and noticed the initial thread started in about the same spot on the receiver rings. He postulated that perhaps the Yugos used an indexed threading technique. That way you could mass produce the recievers and chambered barrels with a generous crush tolerance and then just crank them together till they fit. They could have even used powered machines to provide additional force. This could account for the wide variation in tightness experienced. Also, it would make sense because if you had to hand fit and mill every barrel, production runs would take too long.

Kenak2, After mentally manipulating your predicament I find myself agreeing with you on the bolt root issue. Apparently what you need is that last few thou kick you get from the bolt root cam hitting the rear bridge. I realized this moves the entire assembly back and allows the sear to snap in.

If I understand the question, the problem is that the action is not cocking when the bolt is lifted and then lowered. This is caused by the cocking piece not clearing the sear. This can be due to a worn cocking piece cam or the cocking piece and the sear in too tight engagement. If the cam is worn you need to get a new cocking piece. If its just a slight amount that you have to pull back on the cocking piece to set it, you might be able to stone a little metal off the engagement surfaces of the sear and the cocking piece to provide clearance.

Those are great high def close-ups. Can you share your camera settings and lighting? Tx, Bob

Check this site under "Barrels" no. 31. These are 1908 Brazilian LR barrels with sights. 29 inches should give you what you want. http://www.reesesurplus.com/

Here is an ammo source(boxer primed): http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/7.65_Argentine.html

The last time I checked with Springfield Sporters they had complete '93 bolts(square-bottomed) for $30. A '95 bolt will work in a '93, but a '94-'96 will not due to the guide rib on the bolt.

The '96 base should fit as both are small ring.

Her is an old thread that may help: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1879

I've not done anything with one, but I would think the magazine would limit options as it requires an en-bloc clip specific to the 8x56R cartridge. It would seem you could mount a scope easily since it is a straight pull-back design and has base mounting points fore and aft. If I were to re-model one, I think I would acquire one with a good bore and leave it in the original chambering. Then I would alter the stock to trimmer lines with a shortened fore end. Surplus ammo is still available and Buffalo Arms has brass. I believe proper .329 bullets are available as are bullet moulds.

I don't believe you can remove that color with anything short of sandpaper. You can try oxalic acid (wood bleach) that is available at any hardware store and/or clorox. If they won't get it no chemical will. Its toasted just like a slice of bread in the toaster. If you like the color, why not "toast" the other side to match? If you don't, I'm afraid you will need to strip it and then sand to remove the coloration.

I believe "Modern Gunsmithing",Dunlap (among other books) has the classic conversion methods. Frank de Haas, "Bolt Action Rifles", summarizes the alterations quite well but without illustration(there are illustrations of finished rifles). In general, the rear sight ears are machined or ground off and the rear bridge contoured to match a FN commercial Mauser. The bolt is straightened out, then shaped like a Rem M720. The bent front tang of the trigger guard is cut and re-welded on straight. The magazine is shortened to allow use of the original guard screws. The P14 boltface is correct for several magnums(H&H), but the magazine is too short. The cure is to substitute a P17 magazine and follower. Basically you end up with a rifle looking like a Rem M 720. I believe the major barrel and stock makers have offerings available.

In a previous career I used to call on farmers in eastern SC. One farmer told me that during WW2 his father had several German POW's working on the farm. When a 4 cylinder tractor engine broke a connecting rod his father thought he would have to have the engine rebuilt. A POW said he could fix it and sure enough, he turned it into a 3 cylinder engine! He said it sounded rough but it ran and served for many years thereafter. I guess that could be called "gerry rigging" if anything could.

Fritz, When welding a bolt handle, how hot do you need to pre-heat the parts? Can you use a propane torch or do you need O/A? Also, is the pre-heat procedure necessary only when welding thick materials or would I benefit from using it on thinner stock like angle steel? Thanks, Bob

Now, I'm not a welder(yet), but in reading through several publications(including Dunlap) it is generally recommended that the Mauser bolt handle root be annealed prior to welding. This is to soften the steel thus eliminating carbon at the surface(case hardening), which contributes to voids(along with residual blueing and pitting). I wonder if this could be the source of the problem?

Here is a 20 rd possibility: http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?ch...perSKU=&MC=

donmarkey, As I was admiring your fine milling skills a thought occurred to me about another option for a lever. I pulled out my Mauser parts box and grabbed a floor plate and a safety lever. Sure enough, the shank of the safety is a perfect fit for the release button hole in the floor plate. By removing enough of the safety finger tab to make the lever lie flat against the floor plate and then shortening the shank/milling the flats you could have a release lever. Would it work? Bob

An outside chance may be the safety lug is contacting the receiver after the gun is fired and the case is fire formed. Mark the safety lug with magic marker and cycle with a fired round. Another cause might be a chamber that is reamed out of plumb with the bolt face. Again, when the round is fire formed it binds when the bolt is rotated.

Here is an old thread from a neighboring forum related to a M96 failure(with pics). http://www.gunboards.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=138492

Looks like the cocking piece may have been shortened to remove the thumb extension. A M93 cocking piece/firing pin could have been substituted to make it trimmer and reduce lock time as well.

littlecanoe, It sounds like you want a 1960's era Husqvarna sporter. They were built on the 96 style receiver with a bolt that has a safety lug like a M98 and cocks on opening. I believe they were chambered in .257 Roberts. I see them from time to time at auction . You could probably sell one of the CG's and pay for a large part of the cost.

swamprat, I am truly sorry to hear of your prostate cancer. You may remember my reply to your original message a month or so ago. The good news is it ain't a 10! My advice is to get your butt to John's Hopkins in Baltimore, Maryland ASAP. They have the best prostate cancer program in the world and Dr. Arthur Burnette, in their urology department, is the best in the world. My total surgery bill including 2 days in the hospital amounted to less than $9,000. If you need radiation after surgery, you can get that done at the VA. Dr. Burnette's office number is: (410) 614-3986. PM me if you need any help. Bob